TO HAVANA AND AFTER.
This seems to be an appropriate place for noticing how, at less cost,
the Frenchmen fared so much better than in any sailing ship I have ever
been in. The Board of Trade scale of provisions for the Mercantile
Marine must strike every landsman as being a most absurd compilation. On
four days of the week each man is entitled to one and a half pounds of
salt beef, including bone, accompanied by half a pound of flour, except
on Saturdays, when half a pint of rice _may_ be given, or nothing. The
other three days each bring one and a quarter pounds of salt pork and
one-third of a pint of split peas. Every day there is an allowance _per
capita_ of one pound of bread (biscuit), an eighth of an ounce of tea,
half an ounce of coffee, and three quarts of water; and each week twelve
ounces of sugar and half a pint of vinegar is allowed per man.
What scope is there here for any variety or skill in cookery? Even
supposing that the beef and pork were in any way comparable with the
same articles on shore--which they cannot be in the nature of
things--such a diet must soon become infernally monotonous. But the very
best ship's beef and pork is not nice; the second best is nasty; and
what will pass an inspector, is often utterly unfit for men to live upon
entirely for any length of time, while it would be considered loathsome
ashore. And what can be done with half a pound of flour? Lacking
_anything_ else, except a few hops, obviously the best thing to do is to
make bread, which is a little more palatable than the flinty outrage on
the name of food that is called ship's biscuit. What is usually done is
to make "duff." This is really boiled bread, with the addition of some
skimmed grease from the coppers in which the meat is boiled. As an act
of grace, but by no means of necessity, a pannikin (pint) of molasses is
doled out for all hands on duff days, but the crew are not allowed to
forget that they have no claim to this dainty by Act of Parliament.
On pork days pea-soup is made, or "yellow broth," as sailors call it.
But pease and water with a flavouring of pork (not too much lest the
soup become uneatable from salt) needs a stretch of courtesy to be
called soup. A little, very little, addition of vegetables would make it
palatable, but "'tis not i' the bond." And even if so, do you think,
reader, you would feel contented with fat pork and pea-soup for dinner
three times a week for four months on end? For breakfast and supper
(tea) there is biscuit and beef, or biscuit and pork, washed down with
the result of the modicum of coffee or tea. And that is all. For very
shame's sake, a minority of shipowners do provide a few extras: such as
butter, an occasional mess of tinned meat, and a few preserved potatoes
and pickles. But these are the exception and not the rule. Moreover,
whenever these additional helps are given, the men are always reminded
that they have no right to them, that no owner need give anything more
than the bare pound and pint of the Board of Trade scale.
Contrast this with our living on board the Bordeaux barque _Potosi_. In
the first place the bread, which was in large puffy cakes, became, under
the slightest moisture, as easy to eat and as palatable as baker's
bread. This alone was an enormous boon. Breakfast, which, like all other
meals, was taken by all hands at once, was hardly a meal in our sense of
the term. It was only a cup of coffee (exceedingly good), some bread,
and about a gill of cognac. Luncheon at noon consisted of half a pound
of meat, free of bone, and some preparation of vegetables, bread, and
half a pint of wine. Dinner at four p. m. was a grand affair. The
changes were rung upon haricot beans, lentils, vermicelli, macaroni, and
such legumes cooked with meat and flavoured so that the smell was
intensely appetizing. Bread, and half pint of wine. And there was
abundance, but no waste. Yet I am persuaded that the cost was much less
than that of our authorized scale of provisions, about which it is
difficult to speak with patience. It will, I think, be admitted that
where men are shut up to a life of such monotony as the seaman's calling
must necessarily be, their food ought at least to have some
consideration. The meal-hours form almost the only breaks in the day's
sameness, and if the food be poor in quality and without variety, it is
bound to engender bad feeling and a hatred of those of whose fault it is
the outcome. This by way of apology for such a lengthy dwelling upon the
subject, if any be needed, though I have always felt that its importance
is great enough to merit much more attention than it commonly receives.
We had a very pleasant passage. The barque was a wonderfully handy
vessel, and her equipment was so good that it excited the wondering
admiration of all our men. The discipline was quite naval in its
character, and the day's duties went on with the regularity of
clockwork. Of course we could not understand the language, and were, in
consequence, unable to know whether there was the same amount of
grumbling commentary forward, upon the sayings and doings of the
officers, as is almost universal in British ships, with the exception of
"Blue-noses" (Canadian vessels). But it was admitted by all of us that
the crew seemed well content and heartily willing, and that she was
indeed a model ship. My scanty knowledge of Spanish came in useful, for
the captain spoke that language about as well as I did. On his
discovering this fact he sent for me, and, by dint of patience,
succeeded in learning from me such facts as he wished to know, rewarding
me with many a tit-bit from his table, as well as some very useful gifts
of clothing, which, as I was almost naked, were most acceptable.
Arriving at Havana, we were handed over to the British consul, leaving
the friendly Frenchmen with much regret and three hearty cheers, which
they returned with interest _a la Francaise_. We were no sooner clear of
her than they began to get under way again, and, by the time we were on
the wharf, she was once more heading for home. By the orders of the
consul we were marched up to a "fonda," or eating house, facing the
Plaza de Armas, which we understood was to be our home during our stay.
A plentiful meal was set before us, but we did not appreciate it much,
every dish being saturated with the flavour of garlic. But as two
bottles of wine were apportioned to each individual, the meal was a
merry one, all hands declaring that bread and wine would suit them down
to the ground. A bundle of cigars were distributed by a
benevolent-looking old stranger, who introduced himself as the
shipping-master, and spoke excellent American, being, as he informed us,
a native of New Orleans.
After a smoke, we were conducted to a large paved room at the back of
the premises, which was simply furnished with a couple of huge tables
and sundry benches, and had in one corner an unprotected well. Here we
were told we must spread such bedding as we had, and make ourselves as
comfortable as we could, until our proper dormitory was vacated by the
recruiting party that at present occupied it. The said party were by no
means an inviting crowd. They swarmed about the big chamber we were in,
looking fit for any villainy, and ostentatiously displaying their
vicious-looking bowie-knives. All our fellows had been deprived of their
sheath-knives upon first coming ashore, under the plea that the
carrying of weapons was unlawful, though we were the only unarmed
people I saw in the city during my stay. However, we had no choice of
quarters, so we proceeded to spread such ragged blankets as we possessed
upon the flagstones against one of the bare walls, and in due time
ranged ourselves thereon. Owing, I suppose, to the unusual quantity of
wine they had drunk, all our men were soon asleep, and when some one
took away the smoky kerosene lamp, the place was pitchy dark, except
where the silver bars of moonlight, streaming through the unglazed holes
in the walls, divided the blackness into rigid sections. I could not
sleep. The novelty of the situation, the strange smells, and an
indefinable fear of that truculent crowd of armed men, kept all my
senses at highest tension. There was no door, and, through the opening
in the wall, dark shapes of men came and went softly on Heaven knows
what errands. I had reached a condition of mind when I felt as if I must
scream to relieve my pent-up feelings, when I saw some figures bending
over my sleeping shipmates as if searching for something. By this time
my eyes had become able to distinguish objects in the surrounding gloom,
and I found that there were at least twenty men in the place.
Terribly frightened, and hardly knowing what I did, I roused the
carpenter, by whose side I lay, and whispered hoarsely in his ear what I
had seen. The word was passed along, and in a few minutes we were all
afoot and straggling out into the moonlight-flooded courtyard. There we
stood like a flock of startled sheep, irresolute what to do. But some
of the knife-carrying gentry emerged after us, and began whetting their
weapons on the blocks of stone laying about--portions of a ruined wall.
This significant hint decided us, and we passed out into the silent
street, feeling to the full that we were strangers in a strange land.
Lights of any kind there were none, and the intense brilliance of the
moon cast shadows as solid as does the electric glare. A few yards of
uncertain wandering, and we were lost. There seemed to be no one about,
and yet I could have sworn I saw dark shapes gliding along in the inky
shadows. And presently I fell headlong over something in the road, my
outstretched hands striking with a splash into a pool of mud. A cold
thrill ran along my spine when I found I was lying across a corpse, and
that the sticky paste on my hands was red. We quickened our steps after
that, keeping in the middle of the streets, but as ignorant of our
direction, or our purpose, as if we had been a herd of swine devoid of
instinct. At last, from sheer weariness, we sat down upon the steps of
some large building, and drooped our heads. As if he had risen from the
ground, a "vigilante" (watchman) appeared, bearing a short spear, from
the upper third of which dangled a lantern. "Vamos, perros!" he growled,
prodding those nearest to him into instant wakefulness. No one needed a
translation, or a second bidding to "Begone, dogs!" So we tramped
wearily along, our bare feet bruised by the littering stones. As often
as we dropped for a brief rest, one of those ubiquitous serenos moved us
on again to the same monotonous epithet of contempt. I often think what
a queer-looking procession we must have been. My only garments were a
flannel singlet and a pair of canvas trousers, so stiff that they
creaked woodenly as I trotted along. Cap or boots I had none. The rest
were in much the same plight, though none were quite so naked as me.
Going along a narrow lane, whereof I read the title, "Aguacalle," on a
building at the corner, I slipped off the hummocky sidewalk into a
slough of soft slush up to my armpits, and was dragged out by my next
friend with a new covering of such evil odour that I had to keep a
respectful distance from my companions thenceforth. Finally we emerged
upon what seemed to be a wide common or piece of waste ground. Here at
last we were permitted to squat unmolested. Fear of scorpions,
centipedes, and snakes, kept me from sleep; but all my companions lay
sound in strange attitudes, under the full glare of the moon, while I
watched, wondering if the night would ever end. At the first glimmer of
dawn I aroused my companions, who were all reeking with dew, and we made
for the streets again, going as straight back to our lodgings as if we
knew the road. When we entered, the warriors had all gone. No one
belonging to the establishment was astir, so we cast ourselves down on
our rags and slept like stones until roused at eight o'clock by the
servants. Until eleven we dozed on the benches, or in whatever corners
we could find, when a plentiful breakfast revived us in spite of the
garlic.
After our meal the vice-consul paid us a visit. He listened gravely to
our complaints of the accommodation we had found. Then he invited us to
accompany him to the consul's office. On our arrival all hands were
shown into a large, bare room, while I was called upstairs to undergo a
searching cross-examination by the consul as to what clothes the men had
saved, the incidents of the shipwreck, etc. I suppose he thought that so
young a boy would be more likely to tell a true tale than those artful
rogues of sailors, as he seemed to regard them. He was not at all kind
or sympathetic: that was no part of his business, I suppose; but as he
was writing an order upon a slop-seller for some clothing for us, a
handsome young lieutenant from an English man-o'-war came in. His eyes
fastened upon me at once, and, after a hurried question or two of the
consul, he came to me and spoke pitifully, giving me two dollars out of
his pocket as a solid token of his sympathy. Then the consul had all
hands in and harangued them, telling them to be sure and keep sober
(which, as they were penniless, was rather uncalled-for advice), and by
no means to stray away from the immediate vicinity of the
shipping-office. They would be sure to get a ship in a day or two, he
said. Dismissing us with a curt good-day, he retired, while we followed
the vice-consul to the clothier's. Here the men received each a rig-out
of cheap garments, but I was treated much better; why, I do not know.
After all the men had been served and had returned to our lodging, I was
furnished with quite a nice suit of clothes, with good underclothing,
patent leather shoes, and broad-brimmed Panama hat. A brilliant red
silk sash was given me by the shopkeeper as a present, and, thus
glorified, I felt quite transformed. With many cautions as to my
behaviour, the official bade me good-day, and I was left to my own
devices. And then began one of the strangest experiences of my life.
Wherever I went, people looked kindly at me, and spoke to me as if they
were interested in me. I entered into shop after shop to spend some of
my money, but found it impossible, for the shopkeepers insisted upon
giving me what I asked for without payment, and often added to my store
of cash besides. When at last I returned to the fonda, I was loaded with
cigars, fruit, pastry, and all sorts of odds-and-ends, so that my
shipmates were loud in their welcomes. By nightfall we were all in a
very contented condition of mind, and, when the landlord politely
requested me to inform my friends that our sleeping apartment was
prepared, we felt that our comfort was complete. But our joy had a
tremendous setback when we were shown the said bedroom. It was a long
lean-to shed erected against an ancient wall of rubble that had never
known contact with a whitewash brush. The floor was of dried mud. Along
the centre of its whole length ran an open ditch, which carried in a
sluggish stream all the sewage of the house. On either side of this foul
_cloaca_ were ranged "charpoys," a sort of exaggerated camp-stool, which
constituted the entire furnishing of this primitive bed-chamber. It was
well ventilated, although there were no windows, for daylight was
visible in many places through gaps in the boarding of the outer wall
and roof. Many and vigorous were the comments passed upon the filthy
hole, but there was no suggestion of raising any complaint, as all felt
that it would be useless, and, at any rate, the place was our own, and
we could barricade the door. So spreading our blankets upon the
charpoys, we turned in, and were soon oblivious of all our surroundings.
Next day, in the course of my wanderings, I entered the fine billiard
room of the Hotel St. Isabel and chummed up with the marker. I was well
acquainted with the game, having learned how to mark in one of the
strange by-paths of my nomad life before going to sea. And this
knowledge now came in usefully, for the marker was a one-armed man who
was often sorely bothered by the management of his three tables,
especially when the players were lively American and English skippers. I
was made heartily welcome, being helpful, in a double sense, from my
knowledge of Spanish as well as my acquaintance with the game. From that
time forward the "Fonda del buen gusto" saw little of me, and that
little at uncertain intervals. I had a comfortable chamber, the best
fare the hotel afforded, while as for money, the customers supplied me
so liberally that my pockets were always full. As I could not spend it,
most of it found its way to my shipmates, for I never came across one
without handing some of it over. The idea of saving any never dawned
upon me, and, when all my old shipmates were gone afloat again, I could
always manage to find some English-speaking mariners to whom I was
welcome company for a ramble round town.
The time flew by on golden wings. All my former miseries were forgotten
in my present luxurious life, and I blossomed into that hateful thing,
an impudent boy uncontrolled by anybody, and possessing all the swagger
and assurance of a man. Such as I was, however, I attracted the
attention of a gentleman who held a most important post under government
as a civil engineer. He was a fairly constant visitor at the hotel when
in Havana, and our acquaintance ripened into a strong desire on his part
to adopt me, and save me from the ruin he could see awaited me. His only
son, a young man of three-and-twenty, was his assistant, the two being
more like brothers than parent and child. Having made up his mind, he
fitted me out with an elegant suit of clothes made to his liking, and
one day took me in his carriage to see the consul and arrange matters.
To his intense surprise and disgust the consul flatly refused to
sanction the affair, telling him that he was responsible for my return
to England, and that, as I had admitted that my father was alive, any
inquiry after me, which resulted in the discovery that I had been
allowed to remain in Cuba without my parent's consent, would make
matters very unpleasant for him. All attempts on Mr. D.'s part to shake
this decision were fruitless. The consul refused to discuss the matter
further, and closed the conversation by warning me that I was liable to
severe punishment for absenting myself so long from the home (?) where
he had placed me. What I felt I cannot describe. Mr. D., with a deeply
dejected face, bade me good-bye, his duties calling him into the
interior next day. He gave me twenty-five dollars as a parting present,
and advised me to get a ship as soon as possible for home. It may
readily be imagined that I had no hankering after the sea again. The
pleasant, aimless life I had been leading, the inordinate petting and
luxury I had grown accustomed to, had made me look upon ship-life with
unutterable loathing, and I secretly determined that if I could avoid it
I would never go to sea any more.
About this time a terrible epidemic of yellow fever set in. So great was
its virulence, that even the never-ending warfare between the royalists
and insurgents slowed down, and instead of a ragged regiment of wastrels
being despatched into the mountains about twice a week, the authorities
were hard put to it to collect recruits at all. The great bell of the
cathedral tolled unceasingly. All night long the rumble of the waggons
over the uneven causeways sounded like subdued thunder, as they passed
from house to house collecting the corpses of the victims. The harbour
was crowded with vessels denuded of their crews, and from every masthead
flew the hateful yellow flag. It was heart-breaking to see and hear the
agony of the sailors being taken ashore to hospital. They knew full well
that there was hardly a glimmer of hope that they would return. The
Chinese, who acted as nurses, were destitute of any feeling of humanity,
and the doctors were worked to death. The nuns, who gave their lives
nobly, could do little but minister such ghostly comfort as they knew
how; but the net result of the hospital treatment was, with hardly an
exception, death. Yet, in spite of the scourge, and general paralysis of
trade in consequence, life, as far as I could see, went on much the same
as ever. The inhabitants seemed determined to put a brave air on,
whatever their inner feelings might be, and I declare that I saw very
little to frighten me. One can get used to anything, especially when one
has not learned to think. Several weeks passed away, and I was still
free, though not quite so flush of money, for the customers at the hotel
were necessarily fewer.
One day I was taking a stroll down by the deserted wharves, when I
noticed a peculiar glow in the sky. It came from the heart of a gigantic
cloud that draped half the heavens, and seemed as if it hid hell behind
it. Fascinated by the sight, though my heart thumped furiously, I waited
on the wharf and watched its development. The cloud spread until the
whole dome was covered in by it, and the fierce glare took a strange
greenish tinge. All around the edge of the darkness ran an incessant
tangle of vari-coloured lightnings, and a continual rumble of thunder
seemed to make the earth vibrate. Suddenly the storm burst. Jamming
myself into a corner between some posts, whence I felt sure no wind
could dislodge me, I waited and watched. For the first few minutes I
thought I should have died of fright. Torrents of water, like the fall
of a sea, were lashed into foam as they fell, and all torn into gleaming
fragments by innumerable flashes flying in every conceivable direction.
An overpowering smell like burning sulphur pervaded all. As for the
wind, its force must have been frightful, judging from its effect upon
the shipping and houses; but where I stood only a very strong gale could
be felt, such as no seaman would think extraordinary. This lasted about
an hour (but I cannot say much for time), and then the rain ceased. What
a scene of horror the bay presented! Vessels of all kinds drifted
aimlessly about, wrecking each other, and covering the boiling maeelstrom
of the harbour with their _debris_. Overhead a louder roar occasionally
made me look up to catch sight of a flying roof like a cloud fragment
fleeting through the murky air. A large Yankee schooner was torn from
her anchors, and lifted on to a ledge beneath the Moro Castle, which
jutted out of the perpendicular cliff about a hundred feet above
high-water mark. There she remained upright, with her bottom stove in
like Columbus's egg. Of all the vessels in the harbour, the only ones
that survived without serious damage were the warships, which, with
topmasts housed and cables veered out to the clinch, were all steaming
full speed ahead, and, even then, hardly easing the tremendous strain on
the latter.
Taking advantage of a lull I emerged from my corner, drenched to the
skin, of course, and so cramped from my long crookedness, that at first
I could hardly feel my feet. As hurriedly as I could I made my way
towards the hotel, finding the roadways almost blocked with ruins. The
hotel had escaped much damage, and I was received with open arms, soon
forgetting all my fears in a good meal and cheerful talk. In spite of
the havoc it had made, the general feeling was one of thankfulness, it
being taken for granted that the hurricane would be found to have swept
away the far more dreaded "Yellow Jack." And this was literally true,
for not a single fresh case was reported from that day forward. Business
revived with a bound, for there was much work to do everywhere,
shipwrights especially commanding almost any wages they liked to ask.
About a week after the hurricane, I was standing watching the transport
of a huge steam-launch over an isthmus to the dockyard, when I felt a
hand on my shoulder. Turning sharply, I saw the yellow visage of the
vice-consul, who was accompanied by a man in uniform, to whom he gave me
in charge. I was fairly caught, and without further delay, in spite of
my vehement protestations, I was put into a boat and taken on board a
large barque, the _Sea Gem_ of St. Andrews, N. S. The captain, a
kindly-looking old gentleman, heard my impudent remarks in amused
silence, until he thought I had gone far enough. Then he stopped me with
a quiet, "That'll do, my lad, you don't want a rope's-ending, I'm sure."
I had not lost all sense, so I pocketed my grievance and crept sullenly
forward.