Analyses of over a hundred plain-weave cloths in the Max Uhle
collection from Late-period sites at Chincha form the material of this
report.
The utilitarian character of most of the cloths is conspicuous. A few
plain-weave fabrics undoubtedly belong to garments of the better type,
although these specimens, too, are without decoration except for
stripings.
Measurements and textures suggest that some weavings may have been
mantles or other large wrappings. All the intact ends have the
customary Peruvian selvages with heavy loomstring wefts. Intact single
breadths range in widths between 4 inches and 41 inches. The wider
breadths suggest that the loom upon which these specimens were woven
was not the type ordinarily attached to the weaver's waist.
Smooth textures and the uniformly good edges indicate that the weaving
yarns were of the high quality we have learned to expect in the
ancient cloths. Thread counts show a wide range, as shown in figure 5.
Technical features in these plain cloths are the standard ones in most
respects. Warp locking of the end-to-end variety and a unique finish
on a side selvage are the most noteworthy deviations from the norm.
Perhaps the least expected feature is the patching of weak or worn
spots in the cloths. In their present condition, the several repaired
examples reveal hard wear subsequent even to the patching.
Ornamentation in the Chincha plain-weave cloths analyzed for this
study consists solely of stripes and plaids; an occasional edge finish
is as much a strengthening device as a decorative detail. A few cloths
are allover striped; a greater number are bordered on one edge with a
series of colors, mainly yellow, browns, and blues.
The group as a whole represents the many fabrics which must have been
woven solely for ordinary wear or use, being used later as grave
wrappings.