STITCHERY

Three very familiar needle techniques occur on the Chincha plain-weave

cloths. Breadths are seamed together with whipping stitches or running

stitches, or are laced together with the antique seam, often called

the baseball stitch (pl. 8,d). The effects vary with the depth and

tightness of the seaming. Some of the whipping stitches are left loose

so the two breadths lie flat, their selvages barely touching; other

stitches are drawn so tightly that the selvages form a ridge (pl.

5,b). The smallest stitches are taken under two or three warps less

than one-eighth inch deep and about one-eighth inch apart. Deeper

stitches found on the coarse wrappings and one bag (4-3889) range from

a quarter-inch to three-eighths of an inch in depth and the same

distances apart.

The baseball stitch, if well done, can bring the selvages of two

breadths together in a flat seam (pl. 5,d). The Chincha types range

from very loosely drawn to tightly drawn threads.

Running and double running stitches (pl. 8,b, c), never very

carefully executed on the plain-weave specimens, fasten down all the

patches, hems, and occasionally the edges of lapped seams in which one

breadth is extended conspicuously over another. Specimen 16-1229 has

such a seam with a six-inch overlap. When running stitches are small,

they range from one-eighth to one-quarter inch in length with

approximately the same distance between them. Many more are from

one-quarter to one-half inch long, especially on the numerous patches

(pl. 3,d), and the distances between the stitches may be even

longer. When running stitches are used for the hems, the cloth edges,

including selvages, are turned under twice, just as is our customary

procedure. Double running stitches on a bag (4-3889c) are about a

quarter-inch long.

Because of the variety of uses to which running stitches are put, they

outnumber the other types two to one in the 16- lot, being often

combined with the whipping and baseball techniques.

Needleknitting, a decorative stitch which occurs frequently on

Cahuachi (Early Nazca) textiles[7] is the edge finish on four of the

Chincha plain-weave cloths (pl. 5,c). From the side, the stitch

resembles a whipping stitch except for its compactness and the fact

that the lines of thread are upright, not slanting; from the edge,

the stitch resembles a chain (pl. 8,f, g). The Chincha variety

differs slightly from that on the Early Nazca textiles: stitches taken

straight over the edge alternate with those linked together with the

chain effect.

Chincha Plain-Weave Cloths · 第 33 / 54 题