Complete dimensions can be taken on eighteen Chincha specimens in lots
4- and 16-. As figures 1 and 2 show, these dimensions cluster around
two sets of proportions: the eleven cloths represented in the diagram
in figure 1 are squarish; the seven in figure 2, with a
length-to-width proportion of approximately two-to-three to one, are
rectangular. Four of the squarish cloths are formed of two separately
woven breadths of material. All the rectangular cloths are single
breadths.
Measurements of these specimens with complete dimensions are given
below under the two classifications.
Squarish cloths Measurements in inches
Specimen 4-3633b 15.5 by 14
16-1260 19 by 14
4-3890a 23.5 by 26
4-3883a 26.5 by 27
4-4056 27 by 26
16-1253 28.5 by 24
4-4027 29 by 28
4-4022a 40 by 35 (2 breadths)
4-3883b 43.5 by 38.5 (2 breadths)
16-1250 52 by 61 (2 breadths)
4-3973d 59.5 by 66 (2 breadths)
Rectangular cloths
Specimen 4-3889c 9.5 by 5
4-4029 10.5 by 4
4-3962 11.5 by 9
4-3882f 13 by 7
4-3710m 18 by 11.5
4-3883d 53.5 by 21
4-4059a 62 by 22.5
From the twenty Chincha plain-weave cloths with intact lengths (fig.
4) it is possible to know (1) that the cloths were woven by methods
standard among the ancient Peruvians; (2) that each breadth represents
a separate warping operation which established its ultimate length;
(3) that each breadth was made singly on the loom. The evidence for
such procedures and the identifying features of the end selvages on
Peruvian cloths are to be recognized in the continuous thread which
forms the warp skein--in contradistinction to cut ends of warps--and
in the presence of two or more heavy wefts, the first ones put across
the web. The cords binding the end loops of the warp skein to the loom
bars hold the first of these loomstring wefts, as they are called, to
the bars. The two or more succeeding wefts, which are interlaced with
the warps, establish the width of the piece and give it a certain
firmness. On the ends of some cloths the strand of cord for
loomstrings was long enough to carry across the web only twice. In the
majority of our plain-weave cloths it was carried across three times;
in over a fifth of the total number of intact ends in the 16- lot the
loomstring carried across four times. The frequencies of two, three,
and four loomstrings at the ends of webs in this group are
approximately as 6:32:16. A number of these occurrences are on cloths
in which the heavy cord is not long enough to make a complete
crossing; the remainder of the breadth is completed with weft of the
size used for the regular weaving.
[Illustration: Fig. 3. Complete widths of textiles in Chincha
plain-weave group. Separately woven webs of two-breadth cloths
indicated by chevrons. Narrowest width, 4 inches.]
[Illustration: Fig. 4. Complete lengths of textiles in Chincha
plain-weave group. Separately woven webs of two-breadth cloths
indicated by chevrons. Shortest length, 9.5 inches.]
In the Chincha 4- lot, loomstrings of from 2- to 12-ply formed the
weft for from two to six courses of weaving. In seven of the
twenty-four specimens showing finished ends, the loomstring stopped
partway across its course in the web and was there joined to the
regular weft yarn. In two the joining was effected by finger knots, in
the other by splicing (?). The two specimens (4-3889c and 4-4029)
having strong 12-ply loomstrings were small but complete cloths which
had been doubled and stitched along the sides to form bags. The
loomstrings thus served to reinforce the open mouth of the bag.
In eleven specimens the loomstrings had an initial S and final Z
twist; twelve show the opposite combination. In one specimen (4-4056)
the separate plies have an S twist, but the final yarn is untwisted.
Complete lengths of Chincha plain-weave cloths in order from shortest
to longest: