CHAPTER I

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[Illustration: Isaac Stevens]

THE LIFE OF ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS

By His Son

HAZARD STEVENS

With Maps and Illustrations

In Two Volumes

VOL. I

[Illustration]

Boston and New York

Houghton, Mifflin and Company

The Riverside Press, Cambridge

1900

Copyright, 1900, by Hazard Stevens

All Rights Reserved

THIS RECORD

OF

A NOBLE AND PATRIOTIC LIFE

IS DEDICATED

TO

THE YOUNG MEN OF AMERICA

PREFACE

For many years I have felt impelled to write this Life, not only in

justice to General Stevens's memory, but also as an act of duty to the

young men of the country, that the example of his noble and patriotic

career might not be lost to posterity. An only son, closely associated

from boyhood with him, his chief of staff in the Civil War, and always

the recipient of his counsel and confidence, the opportunities thus

given me to know his sentiments and characteristics, and to witness so

many of his actions, plainly augment the duty of making his record more

widely known. In these pages, setting aside, as far as possible, the

bias of filial respect and affection, I seek to simply narrate the

actual facts of his life.

Since beginning this work in 1877, I have been greatly assisted by data

furnished by many of General Stevens's contemporaries, former brother

officers, and associates in the public service, many of whom have now

passed on. I render my grateful thanks to them for such aid, and for

their words of appreciation of General Stevens and encouragement to his

biographer, and especially to Generals Zealous B. Tower, Henry J. Hunt,

Benjamin Alvord, Edward D. Townsend, Rufus Ingalls, A.A. Humphreys, E.O.

C. Ord, Thomas W. Sherman, Joseph E. Johnston, G.T. Beauregard, William

H. French, Truman Seymour, Orlando M. Poe, Silas Casey, John G. Barnard,

M.C. Meiggs, Joseph Hooker, George W. Cullum, David Morrison, George E.

Randolph; Colonels Samuel N. Benjamin, Granville O. Haller, Henry C.

Hodges, John Hamilton, H.G. Heffron, Elijah Walker, Moses B. Lakeman;

Major Theodore J. Eckerson, Major George T. Clark; Captains William T.

Lusk, Robert Armour, C.H. Armstrong; Professors W.H. C. Bartlett, A.E.

Church, H.S. Kendrick, H.E. Hilgard, Spencer F. Baird; General Joseph

Lane, Senator James W. Nesmith; General Joel Palmer, Nathan W. Hazen,

Esq., Alexander S. Abernethy, C.P. Higgins; Judge James G. Swan, Arthur

A. Denny; Hon. Elwood Evans, General James Tilton.

My thanks are also due, for facilities for examining and copying records

in their departments, to the Hon. J.Q. Smith, former Commissioner of

Indian Affairs, and Hon. A.C. Towner, Acting Commissioner; to General H.

C. Corbin, Adjutant-General; General John M. Wilson, Chief of Engineers;

Hon. John Hay, Secretary of State; Professor Henry L. Pritchett,

Superintendent of the Coast Survey; Lieutenant Paul Brodie, formerly

adjutant 79th Highlanders, for copying hundreds of pages of documents in

the Indian Office; Mr. R.F. Thompson, of the same office, for assistance

rendered; Professor F.G. Young, of Eugene, Oregon, for a copy of Colonel

Lawrence Kip's account of the Walla Walla Council, republished by him.

SOURCES OF INFORMATION

Savage's New England Genealogies.

Abiel Abbott's History of Andover.

Miss Sarah Loring Bailey's Historical Sketches of Andover.

Church and town records of Andover.

Massachusetts Colonial Records.

Family records and correspondence.

History of the Mexican War, by General C.M. Wilcox.

Campaigns of the Rio Grande and of Mexico, by Major Isaac I. Stevens.

General Stevens's diary and letters (unpublished).

His reports in the Engineer Bureau of the Army (unpublished).

Reports of the Coast Survey, Professor A.D. Bache, for 1850 to 1853.

Boston Post newspaper, files for 1852.

Pacific Railroad Routes Explorations, vols. i. and xii., two parts.

General Stevens's reports to Commissioner of Indian Affairs, with

journals of Indian councils and proceedings in 1854-55 (unpublished).

Reports of December 22, 1855, and January 29, 1856, in House Document

48, 1st session, 34th Congress.

Reports of August 28, December 5, 1856, council at Fox Island; October

22, 1856, second council at Walla Walla; April 30, 1857, with map and

census of Indian tribes (unpublished).

Reports to Jefferson Davis, Secretary of War, August 15, December 21,

1854; February 19, March 9 and 21, May 23 (two letters), June 8, July 7

and 24, August 14, October 22, November 21 (three letters), 1856. See

documents of 34th and 35th Congresses.

Reports and correspondence of General Wool, Colonel George Wright, and

Lieutenant-Colonel Silas Casey, in said documents.

Governor Stevens's messages to legislature of Washington Territory,

February 28, December 5, 1854; January 20, December, 1856, the latter

accompanied by reports to the Secretary of War and correspondence with

military officers during the Indian war. See, also, above documents and

messages for proceedings relative to martial law.

Governor Stevens's speeches in 35th and 36th Congresses, in

Congressional Globe.

General Joseph Lane's speech in 35th Congress, May 13, 1858, on the

Indian war.

Three Years' Residence in Washington Territory, by James G. Swan.

The Walla Walla Council, by Colonel Lawrence Kip.

Account of Colonel Wright's campaign against the Spokanes, by Colonel

Lawrence Kip.

Report of J. Ross Browne, Special Agent, etc., on the Indian war, House

Document 58, 1st session, 35th Congress.

History of the Pacific States, by H.H. Bancroft, vols. xxiv.-xxvi.

Archives State Department.

Records War Department.

Circular Letter to Emigrants, The Northwest, Letter to the Vancouver

Railroad Convention, by Governor Stevens, published in pamphlet.

The War between the States, by A.H. Stephens.

War Records, vol. v., for Army of the Potomac in 1861; vol. vi., for

Port Royal Expedition; vol. xiv., for James Island campaign; vol. xii.,

in three parts, for Pope's campaign.

Military Historical Society of Massachusetts, vol. ii, entitled The

Virginia Campaign of 1862 under General Pope.

History of the 79th Highlanders, by William Todd.

History of the 21st Massachusetts, by General Charles F. Walcott.

Biographical Register of West Point Graduates, by General George W.

Cullum.

Defence of Charleston Harbor, by Major John Johnson.

Southern Historical Society Papers, vol. xvi.

Official dispatches of Admiral Dupont.

Life of Charles Henry Davis, Rear Admiral.

Letters and statements from gentlemen named in the Preface.

* * * * *

The author, having sought his information from original sources as far

as possible, deems it unnecessary to mention the great number of

histories, regimental histories, and biographies that he has perused, as

they throw little light on the subject, and much of that misleading.

CONTENTS

CHAPTER I

ANCESTRY.--BIRTHPLACE

Isaac Ingalls Stevens, seventh in descent from John Stevens,

1, one of founders of Andover, Mass., 1640--Deacon Joseph,

2--Captain James, 3, captor of Louisburg; deputy to General

Court--Lieutenant James, 4, raised company for French and

Indian war; died in service--Jonathan, 5, Revolutionary

soldier, Bunker Hill; other service; characteristics--His

brother James's diary of siege of Boston--Isaac, 6,

crippled by falling tree; marries Hannah Cummings,--her

ancestry; hires Bridges farm; untiring industry and thrift;

death of wife; second marriage; characteristics; children 1

CHAPTER II

BIRTH.--BOYHOOD

Born, Marble Ridge farmhouse, North Andover, Mass., March 25,

1818--Delicate child--Heroic treatment--Incidents showing

character--Devotion to mother--Her death irreparable

loss--Early schooling--Over-study--Evil effects--Insists on

leaving school--Works in factory a year--Strict treatment--

No indulgence--Injudicious urging--Fever--Rupture from

over-exertion--Seeks Dr. Warren--Old Put's school, Franklin

Academy--Rigorous daily life of farmer's boy--Phillips

Academy--Appearance on entering--Earns board and lodgings

with Nathan W. Hazen, Esq.--Takes first rank in studies--Power

of concentration--Habits of study--Proficiency in mathematics--

Protests against bigotry--Overcomes extreme diffidence--

Appointed to West Point 13

CHAPTER III

WEST POINT

Patriotic emotions on entering West Point--Determines to be

head of his class--Better prepared rivals, Biddle, Halleck,

and Butler--Distinguished classmates--Extra French lessons--

Letters describe life and studies--Father and uncle William

disappointed at standing at first examination--Abominates

smoking and chewing--Early rising--Halleck and Biddle compare

notes--"Little Stevens is driving ahead like the Devil"--Gains

first place--Spends 4th of July in New York--Southern contempt

for Yankee farmers--Determined to resent it--Dialectic

Society--Second year encampment--Military ball--Contrasts his

situation with that on entering--Characteristics drawn by

Professors Bartlett and Church--Extra drawing lessons, great

gains--Admires General Miller's "I'll try, sir"--Generous

rivalry--Eleven good friends--Visit home 24

CHAPTER IV

WEST POINT.--LAST TWO YEARS

Appointed assistant professor of mathematics--Leading part in

Dialectic Society--Efforts at speaking--Reflections on

studies and authors--Long walks--Forbidden sweets--

Horsemanship--Skating over thin ice--Saves companion from

freezing--Letters to father and sisters--Susan goes to

Missouri--Again head, third year--Patriotic indignation at

British aggression--Advises sending Oliver to college--Letters

to Hannah and Oliver--Avows abolition principles--Founds

"Talisman"--His own anonymous critic--His intimate friends--

Graduates first in every branch--Parents attend graduation

exercises 48

CHAPTER V

NEWPORT

Ordered to Newport, R.I.--Phrenological chart--Lieutenants

Mason, Beauregard, Hunt--Ascendency over employees--Newport

society--Mr. Stevens welcomed--Personal appearance--Meets his

future wife--Benjamin Hazard--Horseback rides--Family

mansion--Charming Polly Wanton--Colonel Daniel Lyman--German

class--Marriage of Susan to David H. Bishop--Death of

grandmother--Urges additional fortifications--Proposes to

study law--Friendly letter from Halleck--Takes part of

Tilden; of H.L. Smith--Death of Hannah--Delivers address

before Newport Lyceum--Lecture on Oliver Cromwell--Visits

Washington--Fairhaven battery--Death of Susan--Death of

Benjamin Hazard--Marriage, September 8, 1841 60

CHAPTER VI

CHARGE OF WORKS: NEW BEDFORD, PORTSMOUTH, PORTLAND, BUCKSPORT

Wedding journey to West Point--Returns to Newport--Charge of

works at New Bedford--Moves to Fairhaven--Halleck asks aid

for engineer corps--Journal--Thanksgiving in Andover--Hazard

born, June 9--Fugitive slave harbored in Andover--Elizabeth

marries L.M. Campbell in Tennessee--Moves his family to

Portsmouth, N.H.--Charge of works there and Portland,

Me.--Pleasant society--Examines old forts at Castine--Fort

Knox, on Penobscot, buys land for--Youthful appearance--

Backwoods uncle, warm welcome--Overwork--Severe illness--

Julia Virginia born, June 27, 1844--Visits Andover--Elizabeth

and Mr. Campbell--Moves to Bucksport tavern--Goes to

housekeeping--New friends--Assistants, Richard Kidder Randolph,

Isaac Osgood, A.W. Tinkham--Penobscot River--Barge--Pushes on

works--Fine ox-teams--Judge of men--Severe sickness in

winter--Visits Washington--Obtains large appropriations--

Confidential inquiry if he desires promotion--Characteristic

reply--Delighted in dispensing hospitality--Daughter Julia

Virginia died, December 7, 1845--Beautiful tribute by Mr.

Brooks--Organizes course of lectures--Salmon weir--Advocates

engineer company--Enlists first soldier--Views on raising

standard of rank and file--Ordered to Mexican war--Speeds to

Boston by sleigh 78

CHAPTER VII

VOYAGE TO MEXICO

Placed in charge of pontoon and engineer train--Delays in

embarking--Visits from relatives--Death of Elizabeth--Letters

to wife--Sails on barque Prompt, January 19, 1847--Diary of

voyage--Seasickness--Warm weather--Passes Bahamas, Great

Abaco, Hole in the Wall, Berry Island, Black Chief--Steward

commits suicide--The weather in the Gulf--Arrives at the

Brazos--Meets officers--Great confusion--Sails to Tampico,

beautiful, picturesque region--Landing at Vera Cruz, March 9

and 10 96

CHAPTER VIII

VERA CRUZ.--CERRO GORDO

Vera Cruz--Defenses--American army invests city--Lieutenant

Stevens's zeal in reconnoitring--Hands torn and poisoned--

Horse bolts to enemy's lines--Throws himself from saddle--

Looks out route for covered way--Put in charge with large

working parties--Volunteers--Independent ways--Diary of

siege--Capture of city--Damage by artillery fire--"Moonlight

magnificence and sunlight squalidity"--Secures fine horse--

Appointed adjutant of engineer corps--Diary of march to

Cerro Gordo--National Bridge--Rancheros--Reconnoissances

of Cerro Gordo--Disabled by rupture--Compelled to remain in

camp--Description of battle--Letter to wife 110

CHAPTER IX

JALAPA.--PUEBLA

Prisoners released on parole--March for Jalapa--Encerro, Santa

Anna's country seat--Reaches Jalapa, Eden of Mexico--Prepares

memoir on conducting war against guerrillas--Letters to

wife--Feeling address at burial of Sapper Carigan--March from

Jalapa to Puebla--Beautiful country--Soldado--Pass of La

Hora--Las Vegas--Perote, its plain and castle--Leaves Perote

with Colonel Clarke's brigade--San Antonio--Tepe Ahualeo with

General Worth and Garland's brigade--Hacienda of Virayes--

Byzantium--Ojo de Agua--Hacienda Santa Annaced--Nopalucan--El

Pinal--Acajete--Amasoque--Column of lancers threaten attack--

Sheer off at fire of Duncan's battery in two bodies--

Lieutenants Stevens and McClellan pursue one for five

miles--Puebla occupied--Health improved--Reports for duty--

Reconnoitres road to Tlascala--Examines position in city--

Generals Scott and Twiggs arrive--Santa Anna renounces

power--His career and character--Attends church--Bull fight--

Army recruiting strength--Drilling--Awaiting reinforcements--

Engineers making maps--Collecting information--Wealthy

Mexican offers to act as spy--Dominguez, robber chief, with

some of his band, employed as spies and couriers--Submits

memoir on system of espionage and employing robbers--Rumors--

Guerrillas invest El Pinal--Colonel Harney marches to disperse

them--Arrival of volunteers--Review--Sorry appearance--Good

material--Heavy defenses and eighteen thousand troops at City

of Mexico--Character of Mexican governing class--Letters to

wife--Description of Puebla--Climate--People--Confidence of

the troops--Character of General Scott--Arrival of General

Pierce 129

CHAPTER X

ADVANCE TO MEXICO, EL PEÑON, CONTRERAS, CHURUBUSCO

Advance to valley of Mexico--Description of defenses--General

Scott and staff with Twiggs's division reach Ayotla--Daring

reconnoissances of El Peñon by Lieutenant Stevens--March

around Lakes Chalco and Xochimilco--Occupy San Augustin--

Reconnoissances of enemy's positions--San Antonio road

strongly fortified--Pedregal--Intrenched camp at Contreras--

Battle of Contreras--Lieutenant Stevens urges decisive movement

adopted by Twiggs--"Attack the enemy's left; you cut him off

from reinforcements and hurl him into the gorges of the

mountains"--Stormy night--Discouragement--Scene at Scott's

headquarters--Second day's battle--Reconnoitring from church

steeple at Coyoacan--Enemy in full retreat on San Antonio

road--Instant advance by Twiggs, led by Lieutenant Stevens,

who comes up against fortified convent and brings on battle

of Churubusco--Description of battle--Terrible scenes of

battlefield banished sleep--Letter to wife--Tacubaya occupied--

Armistice 163

CHAPTER XI

MOLINO DEL REY.--CHAPULTEPEC.--CAPTURE OF CITY OF MEXICO.--RETURN TO

UNITED STATES

General Scott and staff enter Tacubaya--Take quarters in

Bishop's Palace--Commissioners to negotiate peace--Mexican

treachery--Armistice terminated--Battle of Molino del

Rey--Useless attacks--Severe losses--Battle of

Chapultepec--Castle stormed--Quitman advances on Tacubaya

causeway--Worth on San Cosme causeway--Lieutenant Stevens,

with Worth, wounded--Enemy retreat in night--American troops

occupy city--Lieutenant Stevens's remarks on the

movements--His character sketches of Lee, Beauregard, Tower,

Smith, McClellan, Foster, Mason--Removed to city--quartered

in the Palace--Severe wound--Ups and downs--Mounts

crutches--Journeys in ambulance with Lieutenant Foster to

Puebla--Arrives at New Orleans 202

CHAPTER XII

HEROES HOME FROM THE WAR

Proceeds to Washington--Flattering reception--Gives full

accounts to Colonel Totten--Joyful reunion with family in

Newport--Shoots mad dog--Ordered to Savannah--Letter to

brother--Character of Cromwell--Makes garden--Justice of

Mexican war--Savannah orders countermanded--Resumes works at

Bucksport--Purchases house, garden, poultry--Characteristic

reply to inquiry as to willingness to be sent to Pacific

coast--Brevetted captain and major--Efforts to secure justice

for brother officers--Opinion of General Taylor--Brevet

pay--McClellan asks assistance for engineer company--

Lieutenant Stevens's views--Advocates reorganization

of the army 226

CHAPTER XIII

COAST SURVEY

Professor A.D. Bache tenders charge of Coast Survey office--

Accepts conditionally--Retains charge of works--Assumes new

duties--Estimate of General Taylor--Magnitude of Coast

Survey Office--Organizes the force--Reforms the office--

Meets "men of Mexico"--General Shields--Approves

compromise measures--Puritan father condemns Webster--

Visits Bucksport--Daughter Gertrude Maude born--Wound

breaks out afresh--Contemplates leaving Coast Survey--Moves

family to Newport--Pays $400 on house--Generous in money

matters--Spends summer in Washington--Letters to his wife--

Ideals of woman, marriage, duty, ambition--Admiration for

Henry Clay, the master spirit--Compromise measures passed--Fine

health--Carries appropriation--Truth and directness superior

to low cunning--Office improving, duties more pleasant

daily--Publishes Campaigns of Rio Grande and of Mexico--General

Scott takes offense 241

CHAPTER XIV

LIFE IN WASHINGTON

Moves family to Washington--Pleasant society--Takes hold Fourteen

Years' Bill--Reorganization of army--Urges brother officers to

do "their duty to their profession"--Army man, not a corps

man--Moves to Mrs. Janney's, on 8th Street--Takes family to

Newport for summer, 1851--Another phrenological chart--Rents

house on 3d Street and goes to housekeeping--George Watson

Stevens--Letters to wife--Responds to toast of Army and Navy

at banquet to Kossuth--Advocates coast defenses, and writes

articles--Appointed member of Lighthouse Board--Sells Bucksport

house--Advocates election of General Franklin Pierce as

President--Articles in "Boston Post"--Speeches in Andover,

Newport, and Portsmouth--Taken to task by Secretary of War

Conrad--Pungent reply--Leader among young officers--Numerous

calls--Friendship with Professor Bache--Continued improvement

of Coast Survey Office 257

CHAPTER XV

GOVERNOR, WASHINGTON TERRITORY.--EXPLORATION, NORTHERN ROUTE

Washington Territory organized--Exploration of routes to Pacific

determined on--Appointed governor--Letter of resignation from

army--Colonel Totten's reply--Silver service presented by

friends on the Coast Survey--Obtains charge of exploration of

Northern route--Takes high ground--Impresses his views on the

administration--Applies for Captain McClellan--Letter to

him--Sends Lieutenant Donelson to Montreal to procure maps

and data from Hudson Bay Company--Prepares his own

instructions--Magnitude of task--Organizes the expedition--

Gives McClellan charge of construction of the military road,

Steilacoom to Walla Walla--Declares independence of Hudson Bay

Company--Busy scenes in 3d Street house--Sends officers to San

Francisco, St. Louis, and St. Paul to hasten preparation--

Selects territorial library--Exploration fully reported in

vols. i. and xii., Pacific Railroad Reports 280

CHAPTER XVI

THE PARTY.--THE START

Leaves Washington--Expedites matters in St. Louis--Dispatches

party up Missouri--Up Mississippi to St. Paul--Rouses party

in camp before breakfast--Breaking mules--Incessant

rains--Roster of the party--General plan--March to Sauk

River--Winnebago Indians--Canadian voyageurs--Pierre

Boutineau--Camp regulations--Assimilated rank--All to stand

guard--Pembina train--Pushing on detached parties--March to

Pike lake--Swollen streams, bogs--Crossing Sauk and Crow

rivers--Lightning Lake--Fish and game--Relieves Lieutenant Du

Barry--Discharges inefficient men--White Bear Lake--Parties

reassemble at Pike Lake 302

CHAPTER XVII

PIKE LAKE TO FORT UNION

General course W. 10° N.--Lieutenant Grover surveys separate

route--Country within forty miles examined by side

trips--Route passes near Breckinridge, Jamestown, Minot, and

Great Northern Railroad nearly to Rocky Mountains--Crosses

Chippewa River--Camp regulations--Bois de Sioux--Description

of country--Red River hunters--Sheyenne River--Lander's

adventure--False alarm of Indians--Myriads of buffalo--The

hunt--Lake Jessie--Buffalo threaten camp; stop train--Horse

and mules go off with buffalo--Governor Stevens disabled--

Lander returns--Inveterate horse-killer--James River--Anxiety

at non-return of Tinkham--Guns fired--Parties sent back to

find him--Sioux reported approaching--Train arranged for

defense--Red River hunters--Tinkham returns safe--Governor

Wilkie and Red River hunters--Customs--Hunts--Government--Air

tainted by slaughtered buffalo--Maison du Chien--Coteau de

Missouri--Mouse River--More Red River hunters--Exchange

visits--Express dispatched to Fort Union--Assiniboine

Indians--Council--Distribution of presents--Arrives at Fort

Union 320

CHAPTER XVIII

FORT UNION TO FORT BENTON

Description of Fort Union--Alexander Culbertson--The

Blackfeet--Making peace--Surveys by side parties--Bugbear

stories--Moving westward--Blackfoot war party--Big Muddy--

Missouri bottom--Every one ordered to walk part way daily--

Milk River--Field order--Abundant game--Gros Ventres--Feast

and council--Feud with Blackfeet--Peace made between them--

Trading horses--Cypress Mountain--Stories of Indian

fights--Bear's Paw Mountains--Party sent to view them--Box

Elder Creek--The Three Buttes, favorite resort of Blackfeet--

Crosses Marias and Teton rivers--Scene of bloody Indian

conflict--Fort Benton--Fort Campbell 347

CHAPTER XIX

WIDESPREAD EXPLORING PARTIES

Gathering information--Lieutenant Grover to Bitter Root

valley--Lieutenant Mullan to Muscle Shell River--Lieutenant

Donelson to examine Cadotte's Pass--Mr. Lander to Marias

Pass--George W. Stevens describes outfitting war parties--Funds

fall short--Governor Stevens takes responsibility of incurring

deficiency--Starts to visit main Blackfoot camp--Chiefs join

the party--Culbertson's defense of Fort McKenzie--Death of

Rotten Belly--Reaches Marias River--Express brings report from

Lieutenant Saxton that mountains are impassable for wagons--

Returns to Fort Benton--Lander ordered back--Want of harmony in

his party--Stanley proceeds to Piegan camp--Lieutenants Saxton

and Grover meet on summit of Rocky Mountains--Tinkham returns

from Three Buttes and Marias River--Outfitting with pack

animals--Lieutenant Saxton, with Culbertson and twenty-eight

men, descends Missouri in keelboat--Doty stationed at Fort

Benton--Lander's insubordination curbed--Stanley returns with

thirty chiefs--Talk with Blackfeet--Their dress--Peace

advocated--Chief Low Horn--His good faith 364

CHAPTER XX

EXPLORING THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS

Lieutenants Saxton and Grover start down the Missouri--March up

the Teton via Sun and Dearborn rivers to Cadotte's Pass--

Description of country; game--Governor Stevens proclaims

inauguration of civil government on summit of Rocky Mountains--

Descending western slope--Big Blackfoot and Hell Gate rivers--

Overtakes main party--Fine condition of animals--Bitter Root

valley and river--Fort Owen--Lieutenant Arnold here with train

and provisions--Nine passes examined--Lander's erratic course--

Council with Flatheads--Chief Victor--Lieutenant Mullan

stationed at winter post in Bitter Root valley--Lieutenant

Donelson with main party sent via Clark's Fork and Pend Oreille

Lake--Dr. Suckley descends rivers in canoe--Tinkham to explore

Marias Pass--Proceed to Fort Benton--Cross mountains to Walla

Walla--Governor Stevens moves down the Bitter Root--Meets the

Nez Perces--Crosses the C[oe]ur d'Alene Mountains--C[oe]ur

d'Alene Mission--Indians--Lake--Falls--Spokane Indians--Spokane

Garry, head chief--Forced ride to Colville--Meeting with

McClellan--His explorations--Dilatoriness--Reports against

country and passes 375

CHAPTER XXI

UPPER COLUMBIA TO PUGET SOUND

McDonald's Indian tales--Chemakan Mission--Settlements in Colville

valley--Visits Spokane House--Garry's Lodge--Arrival of main

party at Camp Washington--March to Walla Walla--Pelouse River--

Crosses Snake River--Rides to old Fort Walla Walla--Visits Walla

Walla valley--Pu-pu-mox-mox--Lander ordered to survey Nahchess

Pass--Descends Columbia to Dallas, to Vancouver--Colonel

Bonneville--Ascends Cowlitz River in canoe--Four days in

drenching rains--Lander balks--Tinkham ordered to cross

Snoqualmie Pass--Officers reach Olympia--Captain McClellan

ordered to run line to Snoqualmie Pass--His failure--Tinkham

succeeds--McClellan aggrieved--Governor Stevens's opinion of

pioneers--McClellan's 396

CHAPTER XXII

ORGANIZING CIVIL GOVERNMENT.--THE INDIAN SERVICE

Wild country--Scanty population--Character of settlers--Serious

problems--Governor Stevens arrives at Olympia--Issues

proclamation--Organizes Indian service--Appoints agents--Visits

all parts of Sound--Meets Governor Douglass at Victoria,

B.C.--Reports on Hudson Bay Company's claims--First message--

Halleck exposes Southern political schemes--Purchases

homestead--Preparing exploration reports--Secretary Davis

stops further surveys--Drafts protested 411

CHAPTER XXIII

RETURN TO WASHINGTON.--REPORT OF EXPLORATION

Warm welcome in San Francisco--Lectures on Northern route--

Advocates three routes--Via Isthmus to New York--Joyful family

reunion in Newport--Proceeds to Washington--Complete report

of exploration--Deficiency provided for--General Hunt relates

incident--Secretary Davis disparages Northern route--General

Stevens's rejoinder--His final report--Severe labors--Sickness--

Doing the work of the delegate--Appointed commissioner to

treat with Blackfeet and other tribes--Unimpaired influence 425

CHAPTER XXIV

CROSSING THE ISTHMUS

Steamer from New York--Riotous scenes--Stops at Havana--

Aspinwall--Forlorn place--Cars to the summit--Carusi's

pavilion--Scene at night--Proceeds on mule-back--Tropic

rainstorms--Crossing the Chagres River--Lost children--

Panama--Embarks on Golden Age--Touches at Acapulco--Panama

fever--Reaches San Francisco--Welcomed by friends--Delayed

by sickness--Rebuke to General Wool--Steamer up the coast--

Into Columbia--Lands at Vancouver--Canoe trip up Cowlitz

River--Muddy roads to Olympia--Disappointing appearance--

Second message 433

CHAPTER XXV

INDIAN POLICY.--TREATIES ON PUGET SOUND

Beneficent Indian policy--Intention to write account of his Indian

service frustrated by early death--Indians of Puget Sound,

helpless, ready to treat--Organizes treaty force--Decides on

policy and terms--Sends agents to assemble Indians--Great pains

to make them fully understand and to consult with them--Council

and treaty of She-nah-nam or Medicine Creek; of Point Elliott

or Mukilteo; of Point-no-Point; of Neah Bay--Speeches--Visits

Victoria, and calls on Governor Douglass to restrain Northern

Indians--Napoleonic campaign--What was accomplished--Present

condition of the Indians 448

ILLUSTRATIONS

PAGE

General Isaac I. Stevens, at the age of 43,

from a photograph _Frontispiece_.

Grave of John Stevens _to face page_ 2

Birthplace of General Stevens, Andover, Mass 14

Infant Jesus. Crayon drawing at West Point 44

Old Wanton Mansion in Newport 66

General Stevens at the age of 23, from a miniature by Staigg 74

Margaret Lyman Stevens, from a miniature by Staigg 76

Low Horn, Piegan Chief 374

Charles H. Mason, Secretary of the Territory, from a photograph 414

MAPS AND PLANS

Route, Vera Cruz to Mexico 118

Battle of Cerro Gordo 124

The Valley of Mexico 162

Battlefields in the Valley of Mexico--Contreras, Churubusco,

Chapultepec, Molino del Rey, Mexico 172

THE LIFE OF ISAAC INGALLS STEVENS

CHAPTER I

ANCESTRY.--BIRTHPLACE

About 1640 a mere handful of English colonists went out from Boston, and

made the first settlement in the town of Andover, Essex County,

Massachusetts. They laid out their homes on the Cochichewick, a stream

which flows out of the Great Pond in North Andover, and falls into the

Merrimac River on the south side a few miles below Lawrence. The infant

settlement was known as Cochichewick until 1646, when it was

incorporated as a town under its present name, after the Andover in

Hampshire, England, the birthplace of some of the settlers.

Among the first who thus planted their hearthstones in the wilderness

was John Stevens. His name stands fifth in an old list in the town

records containing "the names of all the householders in order as they

came to town." The mists of the past still allow a few glimpses of this

sturdy Puritan settler. He was admitted a freeman of the colony, June 2,

1641 (Old Style). He was appointed by the General Court, May 15, 1654,

one of a committee of three to settle the boundary between the towns of

Haverhill and Salisbury, a duty satisfactorily performed. He was

sergeant in the military company of the town, a post then equivalent to

captain or commander. According to Savage, N.E. Genealogies, vol. i., p.

186, John Stevens lived at Caversham, County Oxford, England, and came

to America in the Confidence from Southampton in 1638.

Large, substantial head and foot stones of slate, sculptured and

lettered in the quaint fashion of his day, still mark the resting-place

of John Stevens, after the storms of now two and a third centuries, in

the oldest graveyard of Cochichewick, situated opposite the Kittredge

mansion, and about half a mile north of the old parish meeting-house in

North Andover. He died April 11, 1662, in the fifty-seventh year of his

age, and was therefore thirty-five years old when he founded his future

home. John Stevens was evidently a man of note and substance, the worthy

progenitor of a prolific family, which has filled Andover with his

descendants, and put forth from time to time strong, flourishing

branches into all quarters of the country. It may indeed be safely said

that there is scarcely a State in the Union which does not contain

descendants of this sturdy Puritan.

His son Nathan, the first male child born in Andover, lies buried near

him under a broad freestone slab with an inscription to "Coun^{clr}

Nathan Stevens, who deceased February y^e 19, 1717, in y^e 75 year of

his age." The memorials of many others of his descendants stand thickly

scattered through the quaint old burial-ground. Not the least

interesting of these relics is a stone "In memory of Primus, who was a

faithful servant of Mr. Benjamin Stevens, Jr., who died July 25, 1792,

aged 72 years, 5 months, and 16 days."

A vigorous, long-lived race sprang from the loins of this first settler

John, a hardy, thrifty race of plain New England farmers, honest and

straightforward, with plenty of solid, shrewd good sense, bearing

manfully the toils and hardships of colonial days, and contributing its

quota of ministers and deacons to the church, and officers and

soldiers to the wars with the Indians and the French. In 1679 a grant of

land was made to Ephraim Stevens, son of the first settler, in

recompense of his losses by the Indians. In 1689 Lieutenant John

Stevens, another son, perished in the expedition against Louisburg. In

1698 Abiel Stevens, a grandson, was captured by the Indians, but made

his escape. In 1755 Captain Asa Stevens and Ensign James Stevens died in

the Lake George campaign. Upon the state muster-rolls appear the names

of twelve Stevenses of Andover as soldiers in the Revolution.

[Illustration: GRAVE OF JOHN STEVENS]

The subject of this work, Isaac Ingalls Stevens, was the seventh in

direct descent from John Stevens, the founder of Andover,--1 John

Stevens, 2 Joseph, 3 James, 4 James, 5 Jonathan, 6 Isaac, 7 Isaac

Ingalls Stevens.

Joseph was the fourth son of the first settler John. He was deacon in

the church. He married Mary Ingalls May 20, 1679, and died February 25,

1743, aged 88.

James was the second son of Joseph, married Dorothy Fry, March, 1712,

and died May 25, 1769, aged 84. He participated in the military affairs

and contests with the Indians and French of his times, commanded a

company at the capture of Louisburg, and for his services was granted a

tract of land in Maine. He was a deputy to the General Court. His

gravestone bears the title of captain.

Captain James's eldest son was also named James. He was born in 1720,

and married Sarah Peabody in 1745. This James was an energetic,

promising young man, with a young wife and two boys, when in 1754 a

recruiting party with colors, drum, and fife went about Andover beating

up recruits for the French and Indian war then raging. The young men all

hung back. "Make me a captain," said James Stevens, "and I will raise a

company for the war." This remark led to his receiving the commission

of ensign. He raised a company of the young men of Andover, and marched

away at their head to the shores of Lake George, in New York, where,

November 28, 1755, he died of camp fever, with the rank of lieutenant.

His eldest son, Jonathan, inherited a due share of his father's spirit,

for we find him hastening to Bunker Hill, and fighting manfully in the

battle. He served on other occasions during the Revolutionary war, and

after a successful dash upon the enemy writes the following interesting

letter to his sister:--

LOVING SISTER,--These will inform you that I am very well at

present, and have been so ever since I came from home, and I hope

you and all my friends enjoy the same state of health.

We have been up to Ticonderoga and took almost four hundred

prisoners of the British Army, and relieved one hundred of our men

that were prisoners there.

Our army have come from Ticonderoga down as far as Pawlet, about

sixty miles, and expect to march to Stillwater very soon. So no more

at present.

I remain, Your Loving Brother,

JONATHAN STEVENS.

PAWLET, October ye 1st, 1777.

Jonathan married Susannah Bragg, December 15, 1773, and raised thirteen

children,--Jonathan, Susannah, James, Dolly, Jeremy, Hannah, Isaac,

Nathaniel, Dolly, Moses, Sarah, Oliver, and William.

He united the business of a currier and tanner to his ancestral pursuit

of farming, and achieved the modest independence he so well merited. The

house that he occupied for many years stood on the old road that passed

along the western border of the Cochichewick meadows, that were long

since flooded and converted into a lake, the extension of the Great

Pond, for the water supply of the woolen mills of his son Nathaniel, and

the cellar is still visible on the west side of the road, some three

hundred yards from its junction with the road from the village of North

Andover to the mills. He afterwards built one of those large, square,

substantial mansions, once common in New England, on the crest of the

high ground east of the village, and commanding noble views of the

hamlet, the Great Pond, and the Cochichewick valley and the mills. This

house was unfortunately destroyed by fire in 1876.

Jonathan Stevens purchased, for sixpence an acre, a large tract of land

in Maine, which he divided into three farms, and bestowed upon his sons

Jonathan, James, and Isaac. They settled, and named the place Andover,

after their native town, and the descendants of the two former still

reside there.

Jonathan Stevens was a tall, large man of fresh, ruddy complexion and

fine appearance. He was fond of relating the incidents of the battle of

Bunker Hill, and used to recount the tale to his children and

grandchildren every Fourth of July,--how Putnam went along the line and

commanded them not to fire until they could see the whites of the

Redcoats' eyes; and how Abbot, the strongest man in town, bore a wounded

comrade off the field on his back. On the anniversary of the battle he

invariably invited his comrades in the fight to his house, and

entertained them with New England rum and hearty, old-fashioned

hospitality, while the veterans fought the battle o'er again. He sat

among the veterans of the battle at Webster's magnificent oration in

dedication of the Bunker Hill monument. On his eighty-fourth birthday he

worked with his men in the hay field, keeping up with the best all day,

and suffered no ill effect from the unwonted exertion. He died April 13,

1834, at the age of eighty-seven. In 1799 he gave the tract of land upon

which was erected Franklin Academy, on the hill north of the

meeting-house.

Jonathan's brother James, Captain James's other son, also served in the

Revolutionary war, and left a diary of the siege of Boston, recently

discovered in the garret of an old mansion in Andover, which opens like

an epic:--

"April ye 19, 1775. This morning about seven o'clock we had a larum

that the Regulars were gone to Concord. We gathered to the meeting

house, and then started for Concord. We went through Tewksbury into

Billerica. We stopped at Pollard's, and ate some biscuits and cheese

on the common. We started and went on to Bedford, and we heard that

the Regulars had gone back to Boston. So we went through Bedford. As

we went into Lexington we went to the meeting house, and there we

came to the destruction of the Regulars. They killed eight of our

men, and shot a cannon ball through the meeting house. We went along

through Lexington, and we saw several Regulars dead on the road, and

some of our men, and three or four houses were burnt, and some

horses and hogs were killed. They plundered in every house they

could get into. They stove in windows and broke in tops of desks. We

met the men a coming back very fast," etc.

Jonathan's fourth son was Isaac, born in 1785. On reaching manhood he

went before the mast on a voyage to China, and brought back, as a gift

to his mother, a beautiful china tea-set. After his return from sea he

went to Andover, Maine, to settle upon the lands bestowed by his father

upon himself and brothers, Jonathan and James.

With characteristic energy, Isaac Stevens set to work clearing his land,

and reducing rebellious nature to orderly submission. While thus at work

in the woods one day, a heavy tree fell upon and crushed him to the

earth; his left leg was terribly mangled, the bones broken in two

places, and he received other serious injuries. The doctors insisted

that the leg must be taken off in order to save his life, but Isaac

Stevens with inflexible resolution refused to allow the amputation, and

after a long, painful illness finally recovered. The limb, however, in

the process of healing, became materially shorter and permanently

stiffened, so that he was unable to bend the knee joint, and during the

remainder of his life the wound broke out afresh periodically, and

caused him great suffering. As soon as he was sufficiently recovered to

bear the journey, he returned to his native Andover, where, under his

mother's careful nursing, he slowly recovered from the terrible injuries

he had received.

It was at this time that he formed an attachment with Hannah Cummings,

the daughter of a sterling farmer family like his own, and who united to

a warm and affectionate heart, noble and elevated sentiments, strong

good sense, and untiring industry. Their marriage followed soon after,

on the 29th of September, 1814. He now relinquished the project of

settling in Maine, and hired an old farmhouse with some twenty acres of

land of Mr. Bridges. This house, one of the oldest in Andover, is

situated at the end of Marble Ridge, a short distance south of the Great

Pond, and at the point where the road from the village to Haverhill,

after crossing the Essex Railroad, forks, the left branch leading on to

Haverhill, while the other turns short to the right and conducts to

Marble Ridge Station. The solid timbers and stockaded sides of the rear

part of this old house--for the front is a later structure--were the

mute witnesses of a stratagem in early Indian troubles as novel as it

proved successful. The stout-hearted farmer settler was alone, with his

wife and little ones about him, one night, when he discovered a large

party of savages stealthily approaching, and spreading out so as to

encompass his house. Hastily barricading the doors, he seized his

trumpet, which he bore as trumpeter of the military company of the

settlement, stole unperceived out of the house, caught and mounted his

horse, and, making a circuit through the fields, gained the high road

between the Indians and the village. Then, putting spurs to his steed,

and pealing blast upon blast from his trumpet, he charged furiously down

upon the Indians, now in the very act of assailing his domicile, who,

thinking no doubt that the whole force of the country-side was upon

them, incontinently fled into the forest.

Judged by the standard of these days, the young couple had an

unpromising future. They were very poor, the husband a cripple, and they

held as tenants a few barren acres from which to extract a livelihood.

But Isaac Stevens now toiled early and late with untiring energy; he

saved at every point, and turned everything to account with true Yankee

thrift. He built a malt-house, and after laboring on the farm from

earliest dawn until dark, would work at preparing the malt until late in

the evening. His farm embraced a large meadow lying on both sides of the

Cochichewick, just below where it issued from the Great Pond, but now

flooded by the milldams still lower down, where he cut vast quantities

of meadow hay, with which he filled his barns and fed a goodly number of

horned stock during the long, rigorous winters, realizing thereby a

handsome profit in the spring. His young wife joined her efforts to his,

and frequently cut and made clothing for the neighbors around, in

addition to the unceasing and arduous labors of a farmer's wife. Such

thrift and industry could not fail of success. The Bridges house and

land were purchased, largely on mortgage at first; then the wet meadow

was added; then a goodly tract of generous land was bought of the

father, Jonathan Stevens, and other fields and tracts were added from

time to time. During the thirteen years following their marriage, the

first scanty holding grew to a farm of one hundred and fifty acres of

their own, and free from debt. Seven children, too, came to bless their

union and increase their cares. Then the devoted wife and mother died,

November 3, 1827, leaving this helpless little flock, the oldest of whom

was but twelve and the youngest two years of age. Henceforth life was a

heavy and unceasing labor to Isaac Stevens. The little farm grew no

larger, and all his efforts were now required to maintain his family and

keep free from debt. Two years afterwards he married Ann Poor, of North

Andover, impelled by his situation and circumstances, with so many

helpless children about him and the household economy of the farm

unprovided for. The second wife failed to restore the happiness of home.

She had no children, and died in 1866, four years after her husband.

Isaac Stevens was a man of deeply marked and noble characteristics. His

fortitude was severely tested by the misfortune which left him a

lifelong cripple. His cool courage and inflexible resolution are best

illustrated by his manner of dealing with a dangerous bull he once

owned. This animal grew daily more and more savage, until every one

stood in fear of it except the owner, who, as often happens in such

cases, persisted in thinking it quite harmless. At length, however, the

bull one day chased a neighbor, who had imprudently ventured to cross

the field in which it pastured, and overtaking him just as he reached

the fence, tossed him high in air, so that falling fortunately on the

farther side of the inclosure, he escaped with no more serious injuries

than some severe bruises and a broken nose. The bull, furious at the

escape of his prey, was bellowing and pawing the ground. "The bull must

be shot!" cried the man who helped off the injured neighbor. But Isaac

Stevens at once armed himself with a stout cudgel, coolly hobbled into

the field, disregarding all remonstrances and entreaties, fixed his eye

upon the enraged beast, backed him into a narrow corner where he could

not escape, and thrashed him over the head with the club with such

terrible severity that he was completely subdued, and ever after

remained perfectly gentle and submissive.

Always strictly observing the Sabbath, he held liberal views of religion

and attended the Unitarian Church. He kept himself informed of the

current events of the day, taking the New York "Tribune" and Garrison's

"Liberator," and manifesting the greatest interest in education,

temperance, anti-slavery, and every cause that would make mankind better

or happier. "How he denied himself all comforts almost, and _quietly_

sent money to free the slave and for the temperance cause! He was a

strong pillar of the foundation principles of right and justice that it

would be well for young men of this day to study," said one who knew him

well.

He was, above all, a man of perfect integrity and truth, and of a strict

sense of justice. There was not a fibre of guile or indirection in his

moral nature. He held strong and ardent convictions, noble and lofty

ideals of duty and philanthropy, and an intense hatred and scorn of

wrong or oppression in any form. He strongly opposed and denounced the

use of liquors and tobacco, and became early in life a vehement and

outspoken abolitionist of slavery, at a period when the advocacy of such

doctrines demanded unusual moral courage as well as stern conviction of

right. At his decease, years afterwards, he bequeathed five hundred

dollars to the Anti-Slavery Society, requiring only that Wendell

Phillips should deliver a lecture in the parish church of North Andover.

The untiring industry which, with his frugality and good management,

enabled him to achieve comparative independence so early in life, was

not the course of a drudge and miser, but of an ardent, resolute spirit

spurning poverty, debt, and dependence. All through life he manifested

an unconquerable aversion to debt. He loved a fast horse, and the old

mare which he kept until she died, over twenty-seven years old, was, in

her prime, the fastest in the town. After reading a newspaper or book,

he was in the habit of giving it to a neighbor, telling him to hand it

to another after perusing it. He took great pains with his orchards, and

planted apple-trees along the stone walls bordering his fields. He also

planted the noble elms now overhanging the old farmhouse, and the long

lines of this graceful tree now bordering the road from the house to the

crest of the hill overlooking the village and the road over Marble

Ridge, and the numerous clumps and rows in his fields wherever a sightly

eminence seemed to require such an adornment.

His children were:--

HANNAH PEABODY, born September 24, 1815, died November 24, 1840.

SUSAN BRAGG, born February 14, 1817, died April 8, 1841.

ISAAC INGALLS, born March 25, 1818, died September 1, 1862.

ELIZABETH BARKER, born July 14, 1819, died December 10, 1846.

SARAH ANN, born January 13, 1822, died February 8, 1844.

MARY JANE, born August 5, 1823, died June 22, 1847.

OLIVER, born June 22, 1825.

The following account of the ancestry of Hannah Cummings is given by her

nephew, Dr. George Mooar, D.D., of Oakland, California, who has

collected much information concerning the Cummings genealogy:--

"Hannah, wife of Isaac Stevens, was the third child of Deacon Asa

and Hannah (Peabody) Cummings, born October 23, 1785, married

September 29, 1814, and died November 3, 1827.

"The line from her father to the first American ancestor runs thus:

Asa (6), Thomas (5), Joseph (4), Abraham (3), John (2), Isaac (1).

"Deacon Asa was born in Andover, Massachusetts, but removed in 1798

to Albany, Maine, a pioneer settler there, a trusted, intelligent,

and capable citizen, who in 1803 represented his district in the

General Court.

"Captain Thomas (5) was born in Topsfield and died September 3,

1765. He married Anna Kittell, the widow of Asa Johnson, of Andover.

"Captain Joseph (4), of Topsfield, was quite a character. The

biographer of Dr. Manasseh Cutler says that he found among the

papers of that eminent person a notice of Captain Cummings in which

he is spoken of as a remarkable man, well versed in the politics of

the day, and he adds: 'From the interest Dr. Cutler felt in him, he

must have been a stanch patriot and Federalist.' In a notice which

appears in the 'Salem Gazette' we are told that when nearly a

hundred he would readily mount his horse from the ground. He died in

his one hundred and second year.

"Abraham (3) was a resident of Woburn and of Dunstable.

"John (2) was quite a large proprietor in Boxford, Massachusetts,

and later was one of the first fourteen proprietors of the town of

Dunstable.

"Isaac (1) appears on a list of the 'Commoners of Ipswich in 1641,

but appears to have arrived in America three years before. No exact

knowledge of his previous residence in Great Britain has been

obtained. The prevailing tradition gives him a Scottish descent.'

"An elder brother of Hannah Cummings was Dr. Asa Cummings, D.D., of

Portland, Maine, eminent for classical learning and piety, and

editor of the 'Christian Mirror' for many years."

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