Unlike other roots, the keeping qualities of Mangolds are destroyed
by a temperature low enough to but little more than freeze the
surface of the ground. In the late Fall when the growth is about
completed, these much exposed roots have but few leaves to protect
them and hence, where freezing weather is feared, the provident
farmer will always give them the benefit of the doubt. If he is so
unfortunate as to have his crop injured, let him at once get the
most he can out of them, in the way of food, for though the injury
at first may appear to be but trivial, the part frozen will become
first corky and afterwards turn black, and ultimately rot. If but
slightly frozen the frost may be taken out by at once covering the
roots temporarily with earth, but such roots must be fed early or
they will rot. Where the globe or ovoid varieties are grown, on land
where they pull hard they may be lifted by running a subsoil plough
with care. In pulling these, or any roots that are to be topped on
the field, don’t do, as is usually done, either scatter them on
the surface, without any system, or throw them into heaps, as in
either way the cost of removing the tops is increased. If thrown
in piles the tops become more or less intermingled, and the small
amount of extra labor thereby caused in topping each individual root
becomes great in the aggregate, when thousands are handled. Still it
oftentimes happens that the weather takes a sudden, unexpected turn,
threatening too low a temperature for the safety of the crop; under
such circumstances the question is how to get it out of danger in the
most expeditious way possible. The quickest way is to pull and throw
into heaps, _roots in, tops out_, by which arrangement, should there
be considerable of a freeze up, the tops would shield the roots. To
protect them still more effectually earth may be shovelled over the
heaps, so as barely to cover them, and when protected in this way
they may be allowed to remain quite awhile awaiting the leisure of
the farmer. Here let me say that this plan of protection will not
answer for all crops, as I have learnt with Cabbages, to my sorrow,
for when covered up this way, but for a few days, when taken out
they will be found to be almost cooked by the great heat which they
have developed.
In gathering all roots the great object is to have as few handlings
as possible, hence, if the tops are not twisted off as the Mangolds
are pulled, they should be laid in rows, tops in and roots out, four
or more rows being put in one. It will be best to have two hands work
together, and so make two of these rows, leaving a small passage-way
between them, the roots being on the inside. Now let the topper
follow with a large and sharp knife, and lop off the leaves to his
right and left as he goes, being careful to so top the roots that
each individual leaf will fall separately, which means that he is
not to cut the top of the root itself, for unlike Carrots, Mangolds
so cut are apt to decay when stored. For economical work the knife
should be a large and somewhat heavy one, the blade eight or nine
inches in length. A small grit stone for the use of the hands engaged
in topping any kind of roots is always a good investment; is saves
running to the barn for an occasional touch on the grindstone.
If the roots are to be marketed they will need to be left to have the
earth on them dry, that it may fall off when loading, but if for use
on the farm it will be rather of an advantage, as it will help keep
them from wilting. The portion of the crop to be fed before Spring
should be stored as near to the place of feeding as possible. The
great object should be to keep them sufficiently covered and cool
to prevent wilting. As all the beet family are good keepers, there
need be but a small per cent. of loss. Store them in a cool, rather
moist cellar, provided it has no standing water. The heap may be
three or four feet in depth, and should be covered with earth that
is rather moist than otherwise, to prevent evaporation. The long
varieties may be piled cordwood fashion. Those to be fed after Spring
opens can be kept in a pit, dug in gravelly soil, on a hill-side, or
where there is no danger from standing water; the pit may be three or
four feet in depth, and be filled to the surface. In covering there
are two methods: one, to throw the earth directly on the roots, and
the other to first cover them with cornstalks, or some dry, coarse
litter before throwing on the earth. In practice I find that when
the litter is used the roots in immediate contract with it are apt
to mould, more or less, and be affected with a dry rot, though it is
an excellent plan to throw over coarse litter up to severe freezing
weather. Which ever course is pursued it is best not to throw on
more at first than is sufficient to barely cover them, and to add
the remainder, making a covering of about two feet in depth in all;
to which is to be added a foot of coarse hay as the weather becomes
cold. The process of thatching with straw and so piling that there
shall be a roof-like slant to the heap, with furnace-like ventilators
opening from it at intervals, I have never found necessary in actual
practice, the elevation of the earth above the bed being a sufficient
water shed, while the cold nature of the root prevents heating. Rats
are the great enemies of root pits. I have had galleries cut by these
vermin through a bed of roots, utterly destroying them for seed
purposes. The best way of killing them in my experience, has been to
drop a little arsenic on buttered bread and put it conveniently near
their holes, but so far hidden that no neighbor’s dog would be likely
to suffer by it.