In the conversations at the club I was astonished at first to note

that no one spoke for the pleasure of speaking. When any one opened

his mouth it was to ask a question or to tell a piece of news or to

make an observation. That art of making a period of every idea, a

story of every fact, a question of every trifle, in which Italians,

French, and Spaniards are masters, is here totally unknown. Dutch

conversation is not an exchange of sounds, but a commerce of facts,

and nobody makes the least effort to appear learned, eloquent, or

witty. In all the time I was at the Hague I remember hearing only one

witticism, and that from a deputy, who speaking to me of the alliance

of the ancient Batavians with the Romans, said, "We have always been

the friends of constituted authority." Yet the Dutch language lends

itself to puns: in proof of this there is the incident of a pretty

foreign lady who asked a young boatman of the _trekschuit_ for a

cushion, and not pronouncing the word well, instead of cushion said

kiss, which in Dutch sounds almost the same; and she scarcely had time

to explain the mistake, for the boatman had already wiped his mouth

with the back of his hand. I had read that the Dutch are avaricious

and selfish, and that they have a habit of boring people with long

accounts of their ailments, but as I studied the Dutch character I

came to see that these charges are untrue. On the contrary, they laugh

at the Germans for their complaining disposition. To sustain the

charge of avarice somebody has brought forward the very incredible

statement that during a naval battle with the English the officers of

the Dutch fleet boarded the vessels of the enemy, who had used all

their ammunition, sold them balls and powder at exorbitant prices,

after which they continued the battle. But to contradict this

accusation there is the fact of their comfortable life, of their rich

houses, of the large sums of money spent in books and pictures, and

still more of the widespread works of charity, in which the Dutch

people certainly stand first in Europe. These philanthropic works are

not official nor do they receive any impulse from the government; they

are spontaneous and voluntary, and are carried on by large and

powerful societies that have founded innumerable institutes--schools,

prizes, libraries, popular reunions--helping and anticipating the

government in the duty of public instruction,--whose branches extend

from the large cities to the humblest villages, embracing every

religious sect, every age, every profession, and every need; in short,

a beneficence which does not leave in Holland a poor person without a

roof or a workman without work. All writers who have studied Holland

agree in saying that there probably is not another state in Europe

where, in proportion to the population, a larger amount is given in

charity by the wealthy classes to those who are in want.

It must not, however, be imagined that the Dutch people have no

defects. They certainly have them, if one may consider as defects the

lack of those qualities which ought to be the splendor and nobility of

their virtues. In their firmness we might find some obstinacy, in

their honesty a certain sordidness; we might hold that their coldness

shows the absence of that spontaneity of feeling without which it

seems impossible that there can be affection, generosity, and true

greatness of soul. But the better one knows them, the more one

hesitates to pronounce these judgments, and the more one feels for

them a growing respect and sympathy on leaving Holland. Voltaire was

able to speak the famous words: "Adieu, canaux, canards, canaille;"

but when he had to judge Holland seriously, he remembered that he had

not found in its capital "an idle person, a poor, dissipated, or

insolent man," and that he had everywhere seen "industry and modesty."

Louis Napoleon proclaimed that in no other European country is there

found so much innate good sense, justice, and reason as there is in

Holland; Descartes gave the Hollanders the greatest praise a

philosopher can give to a people when he said that in no country does

one enjoy greater liberty than in Holland; Charles V. pronounced upon

them the highest eulogy possible to a sovereign when he said that they

were "excellent subjects, but the worst of slaves." An Englishman

wrote that the Dutch inspire an esteem that never becomes affection.

Perhaps he did not esteem them highly enough.

I do not conceal the fact that one of my reasons for liking them was

the discovery that Italy is much better known in Holland than I should

have dared to hope. Not only did our revolution find a favorable echo

there, as was natural in a independent nation free and hostile to the

pope, but the Italian leaders and the events of recent times are as

familiarly known as those of France and Germany. The best newspapers

have Italian correspondents and furnish the public with the minutest

details of our affairs. In many places portraits of our most

illustrious citizens are seen. Acquaintance with our literature is no

less extended than knowledge of our politics. Putting aside the fact

that the Italian language was sung in the halls of the ancient counts

of Holland, that in the golden age of Dutch literature it was greatly

honored by men of letters, and that several of the most illustrious

poets of that period wrote Italian verses or imitated our pastoral

poetry,--the Italian language is considerably studied nowadays, and

one frequently meets those who speak it, and it is common to see our

books on ladies' tables. The "Divina Commedia," which came into vogue

especially after 1830, has been twice translated into rhymed triplets.

One version is the work of a certain Hacke van Mijnden, who devoted

all his life to the study of Dante. "Gerusalemme Liberata" has been

translated in verse by a Protestant clergyman called Ten Kate, and

there was another version, unpublished and now lost, by Maria

Tesseeschade, the great poetess of the seventeenth century, the

intimate friend of the great Dutch poet Vondel, who advised and helped

her in the translation. Of the "Pastor Fido" there are at least five

translations by different hands. Of "Aminta" there are several

translations, and, to make a leap, at least four of "Mie Prigioni,"

besides a very fine translation of the "Promessi Sposi," a novel that

few Dutch people have not read either in their own language, in

French, or in Italian. To cite another interesting fact, there is a

poem entitled "Florence," written for the last centenary of Dante by

one of the best Dutch poets of our day.

It is now in place to say something about Dutch literature.

Holland presents a singular disproportion between the expansive force

of its political, scientific, and commercial life and that of its

literary life. While the work of the Dutch in every other field

extends beyond the frontier of the land, its literature is confined

within its own borders. It is especially strange that, although

Holland possesses a most abundant literature, it has not, as other

little states, produced one book that has become European, unless we

class among literary works the writings of Spinoza, the only great

philosopher of his country, or consider as Dutch literature the

forgotten Latin treatises of Erasmus of Rotterdam. Yet if there be a

country which by its nature and history suggests subjects to inspire

the mind to the production of such poetical works as appeal to the

imagination of all nations, that country is Holland. The marvellous

transformations of the land, the terrible inundations, the fabulous

maritime expeditions,--these ought to have given birth to a poem

powerful and original even when stripped of its native form. Why did

not this occur? The nature of the Dutch genius may be adduced as a

reason, which, aiming at utility in everything, wished to turn

literature also to a practical end. Another tendency, the opposite of

this, though, perhaps derived from it, is that of soaring high above

human nature to avoid treading on the ground with the mass; a

weariness of genius which gave to judgment the ascendency over the

imagination; an innate love of all that was precise and finished,

which resulted in a prolixity in which grand ideas were diluted; the

spirit of the religious sects, which enchained within a narrow circle

talents created to survey a vast horizon. But neither these nor other

reasons can keep one from wondering that there should not be one

writer of Dutch literature who worthily represents to the world the

greatness of his country--a name to be placed between Rembrandt and

Spinoza.

However, it would be a mistake to overlook at least the three

principal figures of Dutch literature, two of whom belong to the

seventeenth and one to the nineteenth century--three original poets

who differ widely from each other, but represent in themselves Dutch

poetry in its entirety: Vondel, Catz, and Bilderdijk.

[Illustration: The Vyver, The Hague.]

Vondel, the greatest poet Holland has produced, was born in 1587 at

Cologne, where his father, a hatmaker, had taken refuge, having fled

from Antwerp to escape from the Spanish persecutions. While still a

child the future poet returned to his country on a barrow, together

with his father and mother, who followed him on foot, praying and

reciting verses from the Bible. His studies began at Amsterdam. At

fifteen years of age he was already renowned as a poet, but his

celebrated works date from 1620. At the age of thirty he knew only his

own language, but later he learned French and Latin, and applied

himself with ardor to the study of the classics; at fifty he gave

himself up to Greek. His first tragedy (for he was chiefly a

dramatist), entitled "The Destruction of Jerusalem," was not very

successful. The second, "Palamades," in which was delineated the

piteous and terrible tale of Olden Barneveldt, a victim of Maurice of

Orange, caused a criminal action to be brought against the author. He

fled, and remained in concealment until the unexpectedly mild sentence

was given which condemned him to a fine of three hundred florins. In

1627 he travelled in Denmark and Sweden, where he was received with

great honors by Gustavus Adolphus. Eleven years later he opened the

theatre at Amsterdam with a drama on a national theme, "Gilbert of

Amstel," which is still performed once a year in his memory. The last

years of his life were very unhappy. His dissipated son reduced him to

poverty, and the poor old man, tired of study and broken down with

sorrow, was obliged to beg for a miserable employment at the city

pawnbroker's. A few years before his death he embraced the Catholic

faith, and, seized with fresh inspiration, composed the tragedy of

"The Virgin" and one of his best poems entitled "The Mysteries of

the Altar." He died at a great age, and was buried in a church at

Amsterdam, where a century afterward a monument was erected in his

honor. Besides tragedies he wrote martial songs to his country, to

illustrious Dutch sailors, and to Prince Frederick Henry. But his

chief glory was the drama. An admirer of Greek tragedy, he preserved

the unities, the chorus, the supernatural, substituting Providence for

Destiny, and demons and angels (the good and evil spirits of

Christianity) for the angry and propitious gods. He drew nearly all

his subjects from the Bible. His finest work is the tragedy of

"Lucifer," which, notwithstanding the almost insuperable difficulties

of stage setting, was represented twice at the theatre in Amsterdam,

after which it was interdicted by the Protestant clergy. The subject

of the drama is the rebellion of Lucifer, and the characters are the

good and bad angels. In this as in his other plays there abound

fantastic descriptions full of splendid imagery, passages of powerful

eloquence, fine choruses, vigorous thought, solemn phrases, rich and

sonorous verse, while here and there are gleams and flashes of genius.

On the other hand, his work is pervaded by a mysticism which is

sometimes obscure and austere, by a discord between Christian ideas

and pagan forms. The lyrical element predominates over the dramatic,

good taste is often offended, and, above all, the thought and feeling,

though aiming at the sublime, rise too high above this earth, and

elude the comprehension of the human heart and mind. Nevertheless,

historical precedence, originality, ardent patriotism, and a noble and

patient life have made Vondel a great and venerated name in his

country, where he is regarded as the personification of national

genius, and is placed in the enthusiasm of affection next to the first

poets of other lands.

Vondel is the greatest, Jacob Catz is the truest, personification of Dutch

genius. He is not only the most popular poet of his nation, but his

popularity is such that it may be affirmed that there is no other writer

of any land, not excluding even Cervantes in Spain and Manzoni in Italy,

who is more generally known and more constantly read, while at the same

time there is perhaps no other poet in the world whose popularity is more

necessarily limited to the boundaries of his own country. Jacob Catz was

born in 1577 of a noble family in Brouwershaven, a town of Zealand. He

studied law, became pensionary of Middelburg, went as ambassador to

England, was Grand Pensionary of Holland, and, while he performed the

duties of these offices with zeal and rectitude, he devotedly cultivated

poetry. In the evening, after he had transacted affairs of state with the

deputies of the provinces, he would retire to his home to write verses. At

seventy-five years of age he asked to be released from further service,

and when the stadtholder told him with appreciative words that his

request had been granted, he fell on his knees in the presence of the

Assembly of the States and thanked God, who had always protected him

during the course of his long and exacting political life. A few days

later he retired to one of his villas, where he enjoyed a peaceful and

honorable old age, studying and writing up to the year 1660, when he died,

in the eighty-first year of his life, mourned by all Holland. His poems

fill several large volumes, and consist of fables, madrigals, stories from

history and mythology, abounding in descriptions, quotations, sentences,

and precepts. His work is pervaded with goodness, honesty, and sweetness,

and he writes with frank simplicity and delicate humor. His volume is the

book of national wisdom, the second Bible of the Dutch nation--a manual

which teaches how to live honestly and in peace. He has a word for

all--for boys as well as old men, for merchants as well as princes, for

mistresses as well as for maids, for the rich as well as for the poor. He

teaches how to spend, to save, to do housework, to govern a family, and to

educate children. He is at the same time a friend, a father, a spiritual

director, a master, an economist, a doctor, and a lawyer. He loves modest

nature, the gardens, the meadows; he adores his wife, does his work, and

is satisfied with himself and with other people, and would like every one

to be as contented as he is. His poems are to be found beside the Bible

in every Dutch house. There is not a peasant's cottage where the head of

the family does not read some of his verses every evening. In days of

sadness and doubt all look for comfort and find it in their old poet. He

is the intimate fireside friend, the faithful companion of the invalid;

his is the first book over which the faces of affianced lovers bend; his

verses are the first that children lisp and the last that grand-sires

repeat. No poet is so loved as he. Every Dutchman smiles when he hears his

name spoken, and no foreigner who has been in Holland can help naming it

with a feeling of sympathy and respect.

The last of the three, Bilderdijk, was born in 1756 and died in 1831: his

was one of the most marvellous intellects that have ever appeared in this

world. He was a poet, historian, philologist, astronomer, chemist, doctor,

theologian, antiquary, jurisconsult, designer, engraver--a restless,

unsettled, capricious man, whose life was nothing but an investigation, a

transformation, a perpetual battle with his vast genius. As a young man,

when he was already famous as a poet, he abandoned the Muse and entered

politics; he emigrated with the stadtholder to England, and gave lessons

in London to earn a livelihood. He tired of England and went to Germany;

bored by German romanticism, he returned to Holland, where Louis Bonaparte

overwhelmed him with favors. When Louis left the throne, Napoleon the

Great deprived the favorite of his pension, and he was reduced to

poverty. Finally he obtained a small pension from the government, and

continued studying, writing, and struggling to the last day of his life.

His works embrace more than thirty volumes of science, art, and

literature. He tried every style, and succeeded in all excepting the

dramatic. He enlarged historical criticism by writing one of the finest

national histories his country possesses. He wrote a poem, "The Primitive

World," an abstruse, gloomy composition which is very much admired in

Holland. He dealt with every possible question, confounding luminous

truths with the strangest paradoxes. He even raised the national

literature, which had fallen into decadence, and left a phalanx of chosen

disciples who followed in his steps in politics, art, and philosophy.

Holland regards him not only with enthusiasm, but with fanaticism, and

there is no doubt that after Vondel he is the greatest poet of his

country. But he was possessed by a religious frenzy, a blind hatred of new

ideas, which caused him to make poetry an instrument of sects: he

introduces theology into everything, and consequently he could not attain

to that free serene region beyond which genius cannot obtain enduring

victories and universal fame.

Round these three poets, who represent the three vices of Dutch

literature--of losing themselves in the clouds, of creeping on the ground,

of entangling themselves in the meshes of mysticism--are grouped a number

of epic, comic, satiric, and lyric poets, most of whom flourished in the

seventeenth and a few in the eighteenth century. Many of them are renowned

in Holland, but none possesses sufficient originality to attract the

attention of the passing stranger.

The present condition deserves a rapid glance. Criticism by stripping

from Dutch history the veil of poetry with which the patriotism of

writers had clothed it, has placed it on the wider and more productive

plain of justice. Philological studies are held in high honor in

Holland, and almost all the sciences are represented by men of

European fame. These are facts of which no scholar is ignorant, and a

bare mention of them is sufficient.

In pure literature the most flourishing style is the novel. Holland

has had its national novelist, its Walter Scott, in Van Lennep, who

died a few years ago, a writer of historical romances which were

received with enthusiasm by all classes of society. He was an

effective painter of customs, a learned, witty writer, and a master of

the art of dialogue and description, but, unfortunately, often prolix.

He used old artifices, adopted forced solutions, and often was not

sufficiently reticent. In his last book, "The Adventures of Nicoletta

Zevenster," while admirably describing Dutch society at the beginning

of this century, he had the unheard-of audacity to describe an

improper house at the Hague. All Holland was in an uproar. His book

was discussed, criticised, condemned, praised to the skies, and the

battle still continues. Other historical novels were written by a

certain Schimmel, a worthy rival of Van Lennep, and by a Madame

Rosboon Toussaint, an accomplished author of deep study and real

talent. Nevertheless, historical romance may be considered dead even

in Holland. The modern novels of social life and the story meet with

better fortune. Most prominent in this field is Beets, a Protestant

clergyman and a poet, the author of a celebrated book entitled "The

Dark Chamber." Koetsweldt is another of this class, and there are also

some young men of great gifts who have been prevented from rising to

any height by haste, the demon that persecutes the literature of

to-day.

Holland has still another kind of romance which is its own. It might

be called Indian romance, since it describes the habits and life of

the people of the colonies. Of late years several novels have been

published in this style, which have been received in the country with

great applause and have been translated into several languages. Among

these is the "Beau Monde of Batavia," by Professor Ten Brink, a

learned, and brilliant writer, of whom I should like to be able to

speak at length to attest in some degree my gratitude and admiration.

But _apropos_ of Indian romances, it is pleasant to notice how in

Holland at every step one hears and sees something that reminds one

of the colonies, as if a ray of the Indian sun penetrated the Dutch

winter and colored the life. The ships which bring a breath of wind

from those distant lands to the home ports, the birds, the flowers,

the countless objects, like sounds mingled with faint music, call up

in the mind images of another nature and another race. In the cities

of Holland, among the thousands of white faces, one often meets men

whose visages are bronzed by the sun, who have been born or have lived

for many years in the colonies--merchants who speak with unusual

vivacity of dark women, bananas, palm forests, and of lakes shaded by

vines and orchids; young men who are bold enough to risk their lives

amid the savages of the islands of Borneo and Sumatra; men of science

and men of letters; officers who speak of the tribes which worship

fish, of ambassadors who carry the heads of the vanquished dangling

from their girdles, of bull and tiger fights, of the frenzy of

opium-eaters, of the multitudes baptized with pomp, of a thousand

strange and wonderful incidents which produce a singular effect when

related by the phlegmatic people of this peaceful country.

Poetry, after it lost Da Costa, a disciple of Bilderdijk, a religious

poet and enthusiast, and Genestet, a satirical poet who died very

young, had few champions in the last generation, and these are now

silent or sing with enfeebled voice. The stage is in a worse

condition. The untrained, ranting Dutch actors usually appear only in

French or German dramas, comedies which are badly translated, and the

best society does not go to see them. Writers of great talent, like

Hofdijk, Schimmel, and Van Lennep, wrote comedies which were admirable

in many ways, but they never became popular enough to hold the stage.

Tragedy is in no better condition than comedy and the drama.

From what I have said it would appear that there is not at present any

great literary movement in Holland; but on the contrary, there is

great literary activity. The number of books published is incredible,

and it is marvellous with what avidity they are read. Every town,

every religious sect, every society, has its review or newspaper.

Besides this, there is a multitude of foreign books: English novels

are in the hands of all; French works of eight, ten, and twenty

volumes are translated into the national language. This is the more

remarkable in a country where all cultivated people can read the

originals, and it proves how customary it is not only to read, but to

buy, although books are a great deal more expensive in Holland than

elsewhere. But this superabundance of publications and this thirst for

reading are precisely those elements which are injuring literature.

Writers, in order to satisfy the impatient curiosity of the public,

write in too great haste, and the mania for foreign literature

smothers and corrupts the national genius. Nevertheless, Dutch

literature has still a just claim to the esteem of the country: it

has declined, but has not become perverted; it has preserved its

innocence and freshness; what is lacking in imagination, originality,

and brilliancy is compensated by wisdom, by the severe respect for

good manners and good taste, by loving solicitude for the poorer

classes, by the effective energy with which it advances charity and

civil education. The literatures of other lands are great plants

adorned with fragrant flowers; Dutch literature is a little tree laden

with fruit.

On the morning when I left the Hague, after my second visit to the

city, some of my good friends accompanied me to the railway-station.

It was raining. When we were in the waiting-room, before the train

started, I thanked my kind hosts for the courteous reception they had

given me, and, knowing that perhaps I should never see them again, I

could not help expressing my gratitude in sad and affectionate words,

to which they listened in silence. Only one interrupted me by advising

me to guard against the damp.

"I hope at least some of you will come to Italy," I continued, "if

only to give me the opportunity of showing my gratitude. Do promise me

this, so that I may feel a little consoled at my departure. I will not

leave if some one does not say he will come to Italy."

They looked into each other's faces, and one answered laconically,

"Perhaps." Another advised me not to change French gold in the shops.

At that moment the last bell rang.

"Well, then, good-bye," I said in an agitated voice, pressing their

hands. "Farewell: I shall never forget the glorious days passed at the

Hague; I shall always recall your names as the dearest remembrance of

my journey. Think of me sometimes."

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