CHAPTER III

THE PEASANTRY

It would be much more satisfactory to one's self to try and write a

_book_ about the peasantry of Russia, rather than attempt to say all

that one wants to say in a single chapter, for there could hardly be any

more interesting and promising people in the world than the peasant folk

of Russia. The future of the empire depends upon the development and

improvement of its agricultural population, as they form three-fourths,

according to the last census of three years ago, of its grand total of

over 171,000,000 souls. Russia thus leads in the white races in the

matter of population, and possesses that splendid asset, which Goldsmith

feels to be vital to a nation's advance and with which nothing else can

compare when lost:--

"Princes and lords may flourish, or may fade;

A breath can make them as a breath has made;

But a bold peasantry, their country's pride,

When once destroyed can never be supplied."

It is upon coming to write even briefly and in an impressionist kind of

way upon a class which forms the huge majority of Russia's population

that the vastness of her empire and the different conditions under which

her people live begin to be in some small degree apparent. It is no

wonder that thoroughly well-informed and experienced writers, who have

lived long and travelled far in the country and who are evidently quite

to be trusted, should yet write so differently.

[Illustration: _A Village Scene._]

One will write as if the Russian peasant was only a degree better in his

intelligence than the animals which share his filthy hovel, and no less

brutish in temperament and nature. Fearsome pictures are drawn in some

books I have read of the almost impossible conditions and indescribable

filth in which men, women, and children, fowls, pigs, horses, cattle,

and dogs herd together in a stifling atmosphere and sickening stench,

where to enter is out of the question unless one is to be covered with

vermin and contract some illness. All this may be true to the writer's

own experiences, and he can only write and describe things as he has

found them; but I too will do the same.

It is worth while to remember from the first that the lives of the

peasant population of Russia must be as different in summer and winter

as tropical heat is from arctic cold. In the winter all _must_ crowd in

together when the household is poor if life has to be preserved and

defended against that appalling cold, when the one condition of the

survival is warmth, or even heat. All outdoor occupation ceases, of

course, with the one exception, it may be, of cutting, stacking, and

carting wood. A peasant population, with a not very advanced

civilization as yet, and little education--only twenty per cent. of the

whole population can read and write--must, like the animal world,

hibernate, come as it were to a standstill, rest physically and

mentally, and prepare for the unremitting activities of the summer.

I remember once when staying in an inn at the top of an Alpine pass

being impressed with the extraordinary energy and vivacity of the head

waitress. She was simply untiring, always in good spirits, always at

hand when wanted, unfailing in her attentions; however late a guest was

up she was moving cheerfully about, however early one was down she was

down before him helping to get things ready. When I was leaving I said

to her, "I've been wondering when you get your rest?"

She smiled brightly, and said cheerfully, "In the winter, sir."

That's when the Russian peasant gets his rest also, and with the spring

he begins his energetic life of farming and agriculture, of carting and

labour. The long days are busy and all too short, the brief nights are

hardly more than an interval. The whole land is full of movement, the

air is full of song and music, the holidays marked by game and dance.

Nothing could be more unlike the bitter cold and gloom of Russia's long

and terrible winter than the glow, brilliance, joy, and never-ceasing

activities of her amazingly rich and life-giving summer. Her peasantry

must present the same contrasts in homes and seeming temperaments, and

two writers may therefore be widely asunder in their descriptions, and

yet both write truthfully of the things they have seen and known at

different times of the year.

To me the Russian peasant is, as to others who have known him at his

best, an amiable, attractive, intelligent, thoroughly good-natured and

altogether lovable creature. It is quite true that he can do, has done,

and may again do some perfectly appalling things, but it has been when

thoroughly worked up, as one of a crowd, and when every one else has

lost his head. Terrible things which were not allowed to be known in

Europe outside their frontiers, and now will probably never be known,

were done during the revolution of seven years ago. But the Russian

peasants are like children, as yet, and any one who knows and loves

children knows perfectly well also what they are capable of, if they

have any spirit in them, when thoroughly worked up, and when they too

have for the time being lost their head and feel capable of almost

anything that will hurt and pain and annoy. The peasants are in this, as

in many other things, like children.

As soon as the statistics of the Russian peasantry come to be examined a

startling fact comes to light. More than half their number--582 out of

every 1,000--die before they are five years old. This means, as in the

more inclement parts of our own country, that those who survive are a

hardy race, strong and virile. The mortality is greatest amongst male

children--over 600 out of every 1,000--and those, therefore, who do live

are strong enough for anything and of amazing vitality, as we have seen

in the present war.

Not only are they vigorous and strong in physique, however, but there is

nothing lacking in their intelligence, or Russia would not have the

charm and fascination she possesses. Probably no country in the world,

unless it be still agricultural France, can compare with Russia in the

character of its peasant industries or their importance as part of the

national revenue and resources. Probably the people will be stimulated

to greater industry in this direction by the removal of the _vodka_

temptation, and both cease to feel the desire for it and get something

in its place. Just as a man I once knew who was led to give up drink and

gambling at the same time, when wondering how he could possibly live

without them, had to change his house and remove to another with a

garden. There in gardening work he found his compensation, and at the

same time added to the resources of his household. Thus may it be in

Russia.[2]

The list of the Russian peasant industries is a long and interesting

one, but I won't take up time in enumerating them, as they can be found

in the _Russian Year Book_, or probably in most encyclopaedias. I may

perhaps mention a few which have especially interested and attracted me,

and will no doubt be brought before our own people in the Russian shops

and exhibitions which are almost certain to be opened before long, and

it must be remembered that I am speaking of peasant productions only.

There is the beautiful "drawn thread" work, lace-like in character, that

all my friends say is unlike anything to be found in our own country,

the making of which is promoted by the Princess Tenisheva and other

Russian ladies, as well as embroidered and worked linen of all

descriptions. Toys, and particularly large ornamental wooden spoons, of

all kinds are made in great quantities by village folk, and painted

boxes such as the Japanese make, but with Russian scenes upon them, in

delightful shades of colour, and with rich and brilliant lacquer inside

and out. Then there are hand-woven laces of different varieties, and,

above all, the Orenburg shawls, exquisitely dainty and so fine that the

largest of them will go through a wedding-ring, and yet warmer than

Shetland wool. These also are hand-woven, and come from the province of

Orenburg, just beyond the Urals.

Ironwork, again, is a speciality in Siberia, where they are said to be

the best iron-workers in the world, though a friend of mine to whom I

mentioned this, when I was showing him some perfectly wonderful and

artistic specimens which had been given to me when I first went to

Siberia, said, "That's because they have the best iron in the world."

The stone or gem-cutting industry is an important one. Furs, from sheep

and wolf-skins up to bears, as well as those of foxes, sables, elk, and

reindeer, and other animals, are perfectly dressed by the peasants for

their own use, as well as for sale. I have some exquisite work in

coloured silks upon hand-woven cloth which had never been out of the

tents where they were made till given to me, and above all I cherish a

silver box which had been made in a Kirghese _uerta_ or tent, far away

upon the steppes, and was given to me when I had had services there

after my long drive in the _tarantass_. It would hold about a hundred

cigarettes, and was given to me for that purpose, is oblong in shape,

with a lid of sloping sides, and is made from silver roubles hammered

out and ornamented with that beautiful damascening that is said to be a

lost art except for the peasants of the steppes. It is such a beautiful

bit of workmanship that any one looking at it would think it had come

out of a Bond Street silversmith's, until he turned it over and saw that

the bottom is a plain piece of iron, rough and unornamented. Let no one

think the Russian peasant unintelligent or unskilful or wanting in

dexterity or resource. The wonder to me is that, with the few advantages

and opportunities he has had, he is so capable, intelligent, and quick

to learn as he is. And what is important for us to remember is that he

loves to learn from an Englishman.

Then, again, we are told that he is brutish in temperament and of low

ideals, and never seems to rise above his squalid surroundings. I don't

agree that his surroundings _are_ squalid. Simple they are, without a

doubt, as the Canadian shack of three brothers I know is simple, and has

nothing in it but beds and tables and chairs, their boxes and

saddle-trees, etc., and all is bed and work, but it is not squalid. They

have been brought up in a good and refined home, and yet find nothing

incongruous in their present abode amongst the pine-woods.

That's what a Russian peasant's home is also, simple and yet attractive.

It is built of logs, the interstices well plastered up with moss and

clay to keep out all cold air, cool in summer and warm in winter by

reason of the thickness of these outer walls; and it usually has an

inner entrance or small room, before the large and chief living-room.

There will be two or more small square windows in the latter, an _ikon_

in a corner with a lamp before it and a shelf for flowers below--every

one on entering looks towards it, bowing reverently and making the sign

of the Cross--a very large stove of bricks, whitewashed, upon the top of

which rests a wide shelf, carried along the wall as far as is necessary

for the whole family to be able to find sleeping-space upon it. There

will also be a long wooden bench, a great table, a few wooden stools,

and a great cupboard, and, nearly always, cheap coloured pictures of the

Emperor and Empress, whose portraits are to be found in all shops, inns,

post offices, and places of public resort.

These are the simple surroundings described and made familiar to us by

all writers of Russian stories of which peasants form a part, and all

over the empire they are found just as Tolstoi, Dostoviesky, Turgenieff,

and others bring them before us in their interesting tales. Take for

example Tolstoi's _Where Love is there God is also_, _Master and Man_,

and other parables and tales. When Martin Avdeitch is looking out from

his small abode through his one small window upon the passers-by as

simply as man could do, and yet with shrewd and discerning eyes, he is

ready for the old pilgrim who comes into his life just at the right

moment, and shows him the way to God.

Or take Nikita in _Master and Man_, in the same volume. In some ways he

is extraordinarily simple, and does not appear to know how shamefully he

is being exploited by his avaricious and grasping master. We are told in

the story that he _does_ know even though he goes on as if he didn't,

and does his duty by him as if he were the best of masters, just as he

does by an unfaithful and unfeeling wife. It would be difficult to

imagine a peasant one would more love to know and understand than

Nikita, strong, capable, affectionate, and shrewd, as he comes running

before us in the story, to harness the horse for his master, the only

man on the place that day not drunk, talking to the little brown cob

which noses him affectionately, and in the end making a tremendous

struggle for his own and his master's life, and winning through himself.

Thus he goes on steadily as long as he lives, with no other thought but

that of duty, until he lies down beneath the _ikon_, and, with the wax

candle in his hand just as he had always wished, passes away at peace

with every living creature and with GOD.

There are no peasants like the Russians, or who think as they do. They

are young, one feels, and "The thoughts of youth are long, long

thoughts," and that is just what those who know them best find out.

A friend of mine told this story the other day at a meeting, at which we

both had to speak, and I am sure it will bear repetition. A _moujik_, or

peasant, was driving a German commercial traveller across the open

country, and in the course of their conversation together his companion

said to him:--

"Your countrymen are nothing but a lot of idolaters. You worship those

_ikons_ of yours, and bow down to them as the heathen do," and so on.

The _moujik_ was very indignant, and grumbled out his disapproval of all

this.

"Worship our _ikons_ indeed! We don't." And as they went driving on he

suddenly drew up, and, pointing to a tree, demanded of the astonished

traveller:--

"Do you mean to say that I would worship that tree?"

"No, no. Of course not! Drive on."

With a very disapproving grunt he drove on, and when they reached their

destination, where there was a painter at work upon an outside door, the

_moujik_, pointing to the paint-pot beside it, again demanded of the

traveller:--

"Would you say I could worship that paint?"

"No, certainly not! You could not be so silly."

"But yet you say I worship an _ikon_, which is only painted wood, and

can't see that I only use it to help me to worship GOD."

Let the reader reflect upon the way in which that peasant had been

thinking over the charge made against him of idolatry, thinking what

idolatry really was, and how far he felt himself from it. Let him try

and imagine how one of our own agricultural labourers would think over

such a subject if he were entering into conversation with us as he was

digging in our garden, or driving us in a farmer's cart to a country

station. I am writing this chapter in a quiet part of the country, and I

can't conceive of any of the labouring people here even approaching that

line of thought upon which the mind of that _moujik_ began at once to

move, though slowly enough no doubt, when he was told he was little

better than a worshipper of idols.

I read the other day in a book on Russia that the peasantry are very

dirty in person, and never wash; but again it must be borne in mind, as

another remarkably well-informed and sympathetic writer[3] says also:

"When people generalize about the intense misery of Russian peasants and

the squalor in which they live they should remember that Russia is a

large country, that it possesses a North and a South, an East and a

West, and that what is true about one place is quite untrue about

another." I shall be quite prepared, therefore, to be told by people who

know Russia far better than I can ever hope to do, that their experience

has been altogether different from my own, and I shall not dream of

questioning or doubting the truth of what they say as far as their own

experience goes.

In this vast area of which we are thinking there must indeed be great

varieties of experience and conditions of life, and it is not contrary

to what one might expect to find much nearer home, that the people of

one village may be clean in their habits and those of another quite the

reverse. But from all I have seen, heard, and read the Russian labouring

and peasant class have a great desire to be clean. Nor is this a new

thing at all in the national life. It is nearly forty years ago since

Sir Donald Mackenzie Wallace told us, in the first edition of his work,

of the important part taken by the weekly vapour-bath in the life of the

Russian peasantry, and described "the public bath possessed by many

villages." How many villages of our own, even now, have a public bath?

And how many of our own peasantry dream of having what is a perfectly

ordinary and weekly habit of the Russians--the bath in his own house?

My Russian and Siberian friends tell me how they have always to arrange

for their domestic servants to get a good bath, before they change for

Sunday, every Saturday afternoon and evening. Mr. Rothay Reynolds says

the same: "My friend took me to see his bath-house. Russians are

exceedingly clean. In villages one may see a row of twenty cottages,

and, thirty yards from them, a row of twenty bath-houses. The one the

peasant showed me was a hut with a stove intended to heat the great

stones placed above it. On bath nights the stove is lit, and when the

stones are hot a bucket of water is thrown on them, so that the place is

filled with steam. The bather lies on a bench in the suffocating

atmosphere, soaps himself, and ends his ablutions with ice-cold water.

In town and country it is held to be a religious duty to take a

steam-bath once a week. Servants ask if they can go out for a couple of

hours to visit one of the great baths in the cities. They go away with

clean linen bound up in a handkerchief, and return shining with

cleanliness. Admission to the cheapest part of a steam-bath is usually a

penny farthing, but in the great towns there are luxurious

establishments frequented by the rich."

There is another custom connected with the bath which testifies to the

hardy character of the Russian _moujik_. They often rush straight out of

the almost suffocatingly hot bath which they have been taking _inside_

the huge earthenware oven that they all possess and, naked and steaming,

roll themselves contentedly and luxuriously in the snow. This, as a

writer has well said, "aptly illustrates a common Russian proverb which

says that what is health to the Russian is death to the German"--a

proverb which has had striking illustration again and again this very

winter. Probably some of my readers saw the account of the arrival at

the Russian front, soon after war began, of the bath-train which was so

completely furnished and arranged that two thousand men could have a

clean bath during the day or twelve thousand in the course of the week.

No doubt others have followed since then.

The bath to the Russian has a certain religious significance also, as in

Moslem countries; "and no good orthodox peasant," I have read, "would

dare to enter a church after being soiled with certain kinds of

pollution without cleansing himself physically and morally by means of

the bath." "Cleanliness is next to godliness" is not a bad motto for any

people, and possibly Russians will like to know that we have an order of

knighthood which dates from 1398, and is named "The Most Honourable

Order of the Bath," and mentioned regularly in the services at

Westminster Abbey.

A great sense of initiative and personal responsibility, as well as

corporate spirit at the same time, is clearly given early in life to the

peasant mind in Russia, for nowhere, I fancy, in the world, except in

countries where primitive ideas and customs still obtain, is there the

same standard of village life and self-government. There are two kinds

of communities. First, there is the village community with its Assembly

or _Mir_, under the presidency of the _Staroshta_, who is elected by the

village. He presides over the Assembly, which regulates the whole life

of the village, distributes the land of the commune, decides how and

when the working of the land has to be done; and it is specially

interesting to know that in this most remarkable and exceptional village

government of the _Mir_ all women who permanently and temporarily are

heads of houses are expected to attend its meetings and to vote--no one

ever dreams of questioning their right to do so.

In addition to the village assembly and chief elder there is also the

"Cantonal" Assembly, consisting of several village communities together,

meeting also under the presidency of a chief elder. All this is, of

course, a development of family life where exactly the same ideas of

corporate duty in its members, and responsibilities in its head, are

held.

It is evident that Russia has a great future if this view of

self-government is gradually carried upwards. The right beginning in

constitutional government, surely, is in the family, for there we find

the social unit. A state is not a collection or aggregate of

individuals, but of families, and all history shows us that the

greatness or insignificance of a country has always been determined by

the condition of its homes and the character of its family life. If from

the family, village, and commune Russian constitutionalists work slowly

and carefully upwards, giving freedom to make opinions and convictions

felt in the votes, just as responsibility is understood and met in the

home, until one comes to the head of it all in "The Little Father"; and

if he really rules--or administers rather, for no true father rules

only--just as any good father would do, Russia the autocratic and

despotic, associated in the minds of so many with arbitrary law in the

interests of a few, enforced by the knout and prison-chain, may yet give

the world a high standard of what the government of a free and

self-respecting people ought to be.

I should doubt if any peasantry in the world live so simply and frugally

or, as they say in the North of England, "thrive so well on it," as the

Russians. The men are of huge stature, and their wives are strong,

comely, and wholesome-looking also. Their boys and girls are sturdy,

vigorous, and full of life; and yet how bare the table looks at the

daily meal, how frugal the fare and small the quantity! It has been the

greatest joy to me to have Russian boys and girls, in out-of-the-way

places, to share my sandwiches or tongue or other tinned meats, when

stopping at a rest-house, and see their eyes shine at the unexpected and

unusual treat.

Black rye-bread and cabbage-soup form the staple food of a peasant

family, while meat of any kind is rarely seen. The many and rigorous

fasts of the Church make very little difference to the quality of the

food, but only to its quantity. The thanks given by guests to their host

and hostess, _Spasibo za kleb za sol_, "Thanks for bread and salt," tell

their own story of a bare and simple diet. Many of us have read in _The

Russian Pilgrims to Jerusalem_ of the sacks of black and hard crusts the

peasants take with them, which quite content them.

What a tremendous difference it must have made this winter in the

Russian food transport from the base to the front, to know that, if a

serious breakdown took place, or a hurried march was ordered with which

it was difficult for them to keep up, and the worst came to the worst,

the men would have their crusts. It has been said in years gone by, and

may be true still in many places, that the Russian peasant's ideas of

Paradise is a life in which he would have enough black bread to eat.

This bare subsistence and monotonous diet, perhaps, is responsible for the

break-out from time to time when the attraction of _vodka_ is too strong

to be resisted in a life in which there are no counter-attractions.

Counter-attractions there ought to be for a being who is created not for

work alone, but for that recreation which, as its very name betokens, his

whole nature needs if he is to do his best work. "There is a time to work

and a time to play," says the proverb writer; and if we hold that in

school life "All work and no play makes Jack a dull boy," we can hardly

wonder that, the world over, those for whom work is provided and play

refused will seek, as they have ever done, to make up for its absence by

the exhilaration of stimulating and intoxicating drinks. It is when

writing upon the drunkenness to be seen at every Russian village holiday

that one whom I have often quoted in this book,[4] truly says, "As a whole

a village fete in Russia is a saddening spectacle. It affords a new

proof--where, alas! no proof was required--that we northern nations who

know so well how to work have not yet learnt the art of amusing

ourselves."

As an instance of the real and natural friendliness and essential good

nature of the Russian, I may say that even when drunk I have never seen

or heard of men quarrelling. They do not gradually begin to dispute and

recriminate and come to blows or draw the knife, as some of the more

hot-blooded people of the South do, when wine excites or spirits cheer

them. They seem to become more and more affectionate until they begin to

kiss each other, and may be seen thus embracing and rolling over and

over together like terriers in the snow. If wine unlooses the tongue,

and brings out what is usually hidden away beneath the surface, it

evidently brings out nothing very evil from the inner life of the

Russian peasant.

In time to come, if all's well, Russia is to be opened up to the

traveller, and everywhere the British tourists will be welcomed, and

even though the beaten track of the railway may never be left there will

be abundant opportunities for observing the habits and customs of the

people. A modern writer who, apparently, in passing through Siberia

never went far from the railway, though he probably stayed for some time

at different places on the way, and sat in third and fourth-class

carriages even if he did not actually travel in them, managed to see a

great deal of peasant life. The railway train is open from end to end,

and a great deal may be learnt thus about the people while merely

passing through. There are also the long waits at the stations where

there are invariably interesting groups of the most romantic and

picturesque character--the women vivacious and full of conversation,

while the men stand more stolidly by, always making one long to speak

and understand their language and to know more about them.

There is a story of Mr. Maurice Baring's which illustrates what I have

already said of the way in which the Russian peasant mind begins to move

freely, independently, and responsibly upon lines undreamed of by those

who may be addressing him, and shows how far he is from receiving merely

conventional and stereotyped impressions, but is always ready to think

for himself. Mr. Baring considers it an instance of his common sense.

The reader may also have his own ideas of what it illustrates, but the

story is this:--

"A Socialist arrived in a village to convert the inhabitants to

Socialism. He wanted to prove that all men were equal, and that the

government authorities had no right to their authority. Consequently he

thought he would begin by disproving the existence of GOD, because if

he proved that there was no GOD it would naturally follow that there

should be no Emperor and no policemen. So he took a holy _ikon_ and

said, 'There is no GOD, and I will prove it immediately. I will spit

upon this _ikon_ and break it to bits, and if there is a GOD He will

send fire from heaven and kill me, and if there is no GOD nothing will

happen to me at all.' Then he took the _ikon_ and spat upon it and broke

it to bits, and said to the peasants, 'You see GOD has not killed me.'

'No,' said the peasants, 'GOD has not killed you, but we will'; and they

killed him."

It is not difficult to imagine that closing scene, knowing Russia. There

would be no excitement, but all would be quickly and effectually done.

The same writer draws our attention to Turgenieff's wonderfully

appealing sketches of country life, though not many of his works have

been translated for English readers as yet. He alludes especially in an

essay of last year on "The Fascination of Russia" to his description of

the summer night, when on the plain the children tell each other bogey

stories; or the description of that July evening, when out of the

twilight from a long way off a voice is heard calling, "Antropk-a-a-a!"

and Antropka answers, "Wha-a-a-at?" and far away out of the immensity

comes the answering voice, "Come home, because daddy wants to whip you!"

Perhaps the reader may _feel_ nothing as he reads, but all who know and

love Russia, and are stirred by thoughts of its life and people will

feel that it was abundantly worth while to write down such a simple

incident. They will understand and feel that stirring within, which

Russia never fails to achieve again and again for those who have once

lived and moved amongst her peasantry, and come under her strange spell

and felt her charm.

Gogol, the greatest of Russian humorists, has a passage in one of his

books, where, in exile, he cries out to his country to reveal the secret

of her fascination:--

"'What is the mysterious and inscrutable power which lies hidden in

you?'" he exclaims. "'Why does your aching and melancholy song echo

unceasingly in one's ears? Russia, what do you want of me? What is there

between you and me?' This question has often been repeated not only by

Russians in exile, but by others who have merely lived in Russia.

"There are none of those spots where nature, art, time, and history have

combined to catch the heart with a charm in which beauty, association,

and even decay are indistinguishably mingled; where art has added the

picturesque to the beauty of nature; and where time has made magic the

handiwork of art; and where history has peopled the spot with countless

phantoms, and cast over everything the strangeness and glamour of her

spell.

"Such places you will find in France and in England, all over Italy, in

Spain and in Greece, but not in Russia.

"A country of long winters and fierce summers, of rolling plains,

uninterrupted by mountains and unvariegated by valleys.

"And yet the charm is there. It is a fact which is felt by quantities of

people of different nationalities and races; and it is difficult if you

live in Russia to escape it; and once you have felt it you will never be

free from it. The aching melancholy song which, Gogol says, wanders from

sea to sea throughout the length and breadth of the land, will for ever

echo in your heart and haunt the recesses of your memory."[5]

[Illustration: _The Metropolitan of Moscow._]

FOOTNOTES:

[2] Just as I go to press Mr. Lloyd George has told the House of Commons

that productivity is already increased 30 per cent. in Russia.

[3] The Hon. Maurice Baring.

[4] Wallace, _Russia_, vol. i, p. 129.

[5] _Russian Review_ for February, 1914.

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