PLEASANT DAYS IN CAMP.
Jellalabad—Menhdī Bridge—The Resident of Gwalior—Difficulty
of crossing the Sands of the Ganges—Imrutpūr—Marching under
the Flag of the Resident of Gwalior—Khāsgunge—The Tombs
of Colonel Gardner and his Begam—Mulka Begam—Style of
March—Pleasure of a Life in Tents—The Fort of Alligarh—The
Racers—The 16th Lancers present a Shield to Mr. Blood—The
Monument—The Kos-minār—Koorjah and Solitude—Meeting of old
Friends—Meerut—The Officers of the Artillery give a Ball to the
Governor-General and his Party—The Sūraj Kūnd—The Buffs add to
the gaiety of the Station—The Artillery Theatre—The Pilgrim Tax
abolished at Allahabad.
1838, _Jan. 8th._—Arrived at Jellalabad without any adventures. Went to
hear the band in the evening, but felt weary from not having slept the
night before on account of the yells of the packs of jackals in every
direction round the tent, and the noise of the sentries keeping off the
people from Kanauj. We were in a complete jangal: a wolf came up to my
tent at mid-day, then trotting over to the opposite tent, carried off my
neighbour’s kid.
_9th._—Early this morning I overtook Colonel M⸺, who was marching with
his regiment, and rode with him some miles: we passed over a most
curiously built suspension bridge, thrown over the Kala-nadī by the
late Nawab Hakīm Menhdī; the pillars through which some part of the
workmanship passes are remarkable. The sight of the river put me in
mind of the excellence and large size of the _arwarī_ fish it contains.
Afterwards, speaking of this sort of mullet to Captain O⸺, he told me he
had sent out a man to shoot _arwarī_ fish, who had returned quite sick
from having seen a hundred and thirty dead bodies choking up the river.
_10th._—Arrived at Fathīgarh.
_12th._—Dined with Major Sutherland, the Resident of Gwalior, who was in
attendance on the Governor-General. A number of friends were assembled; a
bright fire blazed in the tent; our host was the life of the party; the
dinner was excellent. I have seldom passed a more agreeable evening.
_13th._—Crossed the river on a bridge of boats that had been erected
for the accommodation of the Lord Sāhib, as the natives call the
Governor-General.
They say there are about eleven thousand people with the camp, and
elephants and camels innumerable, which, added to the Body guard,
Artillery, and Infantry, form an immense multitude. It is said his
Lordship’s marching about the country costs the Government 70,000 rupees
a month; the encampment encroaching on fields of grain often costs from
300 to 400 rupees a day to make up the loss sustained by the peasants. On
the other side the bridge, the road was marked out by little flags,—and
a most heartbreaking road it was; entirely through the dry bed of the
river, nearly axle deep in fine sand: the day was bitterly cold, the wind
very high, and the flying sand filled our eyes and mouths. I was too
unwell to mount my horse, and the result was that the two greys had to
drag me the whole way in the Stanhope. The first thing I discovered was
my ayha in her cart fixed in the sand, and quite immovable. Some soldiers
came forward and helped her out of her difficulty. All the Company’s
hackeries had come to an anchor. The soldiers, finding the bullocks had
no power to extricate them from the sand, took out the animals, and
harnessed themselves, some thirty or forty men to each cart, and dragged
it until it reached better ground.
I came up to my tent at Imrutpūr, and found it was pitched close to the
lines of the camp of the Governor-General; this could not be altered at
the time, the other tent not having come up, and being ill I laid down
to rest. The other tent did not come up until it was too late to pitch
it; and in the evening I was annoyed at finding I was within the rules
of the camp, within the sentries, which I had given strict orders to
avoid, and which my people had disobeyed by mistake when pitching the
tent during the night. Indeed, the long march over the sand of the river
had harassed them, and when it is particularly cold, the natives are more
stupid than usual.
_14th._—I was quite ill, and much inclined to give up my journey
altogether, but as my tent was pitched within the rules, I got up very
early, had the other tent pitched without the rules, went into it, and
struck the former. Captain C⸺ wrote to mention it had been observed that
the tent had been pitched within the line of sentries, and to request
I would give orders to my khalasīs to prevent the recurrence of the
circumstance. I therefore determined to change my route; and a note
having come from Mrs. H⸺, saying their party having quitted the great
camp were going to Alligarh, and requesting me to join them, I accepted
the invitation with great pleasure.
_19th._—Finished a march of fifteen miles before half-past eight A.M.;
halted at Nawabgunge; breakfasted with my friends; a most kind welcome,
a bright fire, and an excellent breakfast, made me quite happy. The
formality of the great camp I had just quitted formed a strong contrast
to the gaiety and cheerfulness of marching under the flag of the Resident
of Gwalior.
_23rd._—We arrived at Khāsgunge, and encamped in the Mango Tope just
beyond the village. After breakfast, I drove four miles to see Mr. James
Gardner, who had succeeded to his father’s property, and was living at
his house. I found the place quite deserted; Mr. Gardner was at one of
his villages some miles off, but his wife, Mulka Begam, was at home. I
sent word I would pay my respects to her if she could receive me. In the
mean time I went into the garden, and visited all those spots where I
had so often enjoyed the society of my dear friend Colonel Gardner. The
pavilion in the centre of the garden, in which I had nursed him when he
was so ill, recalled to mind the conversation we then had, which ended in
his taking me to the tomb of his son just beyond the garden; we sat on
that tomb, and the dear old man said, pointing to the spot, “I wish to
be buried there, by the side of my son; another year will not pass ere I
shall be placed there; you are very kind in trying to persuade me, my
dear daughter, that I have still many years before me, but I feel I am
going, my constitution is gone; it is well that with old age we feel all
these pains and the ills that accompany it; were it not so, we should
never be willing to quit this world.” Our conversation lasted some time,
afterwards he took my arm, and we returned slowly to the house. I visited
his grave: his son had raised a tomb on the spot selected by his father;
it was not quite finished. I knelt at the grave of my kind, kind friend,
and wept and prayed in deep affliction. His Begam had only survived him
a few days. She was buried in the same tomb, with her head to Mecca,
towards which place the face of a true believer is always turned when
laid in the grave. The corpse of a Muhammadan is laid on its back in the
grave, with the head to the north and feet to the south, turning its face
towards the kibla (or Mecca, _i.e._ west). The Shī’as make their tombs
for men of the same shape as the Sunnīs make those for females; and for
women like those of the Sunnīs for men, but with a hollow, or basin, in
the centre of the upper part.
Mulka Begam received me very kindly; she showed me her little girl, the
youngest, about two years old, whom she said was reckoned very like me.
The child was shy, and clung to her ayha, frightened at a stranger; I
could scarcely catch a glimpse of her face. The eldest boy was from home
with his father; the second son, William Linnæus, so called after his
grandfather, was at home; he is a very fine, intelligent boy. I requested
leave to bring Mrs. H⸺ to pay her a visit that evening, and then asking
permission to depart, I returned to the tents. In the evening, our party
set off for Khāsgunge: we walked in the garden, and visited the tomb.
Major Sutherland spoke of Colonel Gardner as a most gallant officer,
and recorded several most dashing actions in which he had distinguished
himself in many parts of the country; gallantry that had not met the
recompense due to it from Government;—the value of a spirit such as
Colonel Gardner’s had not been properly appreciated by the rulers of the
land.
When the evening closed in, the gentlemen went into the outer house,
and I took Mrs. H⸺ into the zenāna: as dark beauties always look best
by candle-light, I had selected a late hour to visit the Begam; she was
sitting on her gaddī when we went in, surrounded by her three beautiful
children, and was in herself a picture. The little girl, my likeness,
had lost all her shyness, and was figuring about like a dancing girl; on
remarking the extraordinary change from shyness to such violent spirits,
Mulka said, “She has had some opium, that makes her so fearless.” We sat
an hour with the Begam, and then took our leave. We found the gentlemen
in the outer house, sitting over a warm fire, and an excellent dinner of
native dishes was ready; having dined, we returned by torch-light to the
tents.
My friends were much gratified with their visit to Khāsgunge; I had
spoken so warmly of the beauty of Mulka Begam, that I was pleased to find
Mrs. H⸺ admired equally both her person and manners.
_25th._—Our morning march was thus: Mr. H⸺, Major Sutherland and myself
on horseback; Mrs. H⸺ in a palanquin-carriage, that rivalled Noah’s ark;
it held herself, three children, three ayhas, two dogs, and packages
without number; four good Arab horses had hard work to pull it six miles
over such roads: the rest of the march was performed in buggies, with a
relay of horses on the road. Major Sutherland, on his beautiful Arab,
used to fly over the country in true Pindaree style; some of his Arabs
I coveted exceedingly. In the evening the gentlemen took their guns; no
game was to be found,—the land was generally perfectly bare, not a blade
of grass,—the game had perished for want of food. The whole country
around Zezaree was very flat and uninteresting; the only picturesque
object we could find during these evening rambles was an old well; these
wells we used to seek out and peer into as if we belonged to the Thuggee
department, and were searching for dead bodies. Our life in tents was
very agreeable, and I believe the whole party were sorry the next march
would bring us to Alligarh, and once more into the form and stupidity of
life in a house; for myself, the idea of having any roof over my head but
that of a tent fell like a nightmare on my spirits; and the giving up
hunting for old wells was a complete sacrifice.
_26th._—Arrived at Alligarh; were kindly welcomed by Mr. and Mrs. H⸺, and
pitched our tents in the Compound; in the evening we visited the fort,
rendered famous for the gallant style in which it was taken, in Lord
Lake’s time, from General Perron. The fort was strong, and surrounded by
a fine ditch; to have approached it in a regular manner would have taken
a month. A party of the ⸺ regiment had a skirmish with some of the men
belonging to the fort; as these men retreated over the first bridge the
English fought with, and entered the first gate with them. When within
the gate they were exposed to a heavy fire on every side; just under a
large peepul tree, close to the gate, six of the officers were killed;
the rest crossed the second bridge, and fixed their ladders on the wall;
but by their own ladders the enemy descended upon them. After dreadful
slaughter, the second gate was entered, and the English took possession
of the fort.
General M⸺ was wounded in the assault, and obliged to retire; it was
fortunate for his memory he was an actor in one scene of gallantry, for
his after-conduct gave rise to a song that is known to every sepahī in
the service.
“Ha’thi par howda
Ghore par zīn
Jaldí bhāgīya
Gen’ral Monsīn.”
The English lowered the walls of the fort, but left one small portion
standing, to show their great original height. The fort formerly had but
one entrance, which opened on the ditch; the English built another gate
on the opposite side, and another bridge across the ditch; the place was
kept in repair for a short time, but is now in ruins. Within the fort,
on the right, is a model of the ground plan. I only regret I cannot very
well remember all that was told me at the time in the most animated
manner by Major Sutherland, who, himself a distinguished officer, was
greatly interested in the Fort of Alligarh.
_27th._—Our party drove to the race-stand, to see the horses that are in
training for the races: certainly, Botanist and Faustus, two very fine
Arabs, belonging to Mr. B⸺, are beautiful creatures. In the evening we
visited a house and garden, formerly the property of General Perron, now
in the possession of Major Derridon, who married his sister.
Major Cureton, of the 16th Lancers, dined with us; we had a long
conversation about the old regiment; he told me the 16th had sent Mr.
Blood a present of a silver shield. How much the old man will feel and
value the honour conferred upon him by his regiment!
_28th._—Visited Mr. B⸺’s stud to see his beautiful Arabs: in the evening
we went to the tomb of the officers who fell at the taking of the Fort;
eight of them are buried there, and a monument is erected to their
memory. Thence we went to a Masjid, situated on a hill in the town,—a
very picturesque object from a distance. At its side is the ruin of a
very old Kos Minar, which is remarkable. Rain threatened, the clouds were
black and heavy, the thunder rolled, but only a few, a very few drops
descended. Without rain all the crops now above ground will perish, and
the famine will continue.
_29th._—With regret I separated this day from the party, to pursue my
route alone to Meerut, they to take the opposite direction to Muttra,
Gwalior, and Agra: Mr. H⸺ and Miss B⸺ accompanied me the first six miles
on the march. How curious appeared the solitude of my tents away from the
happy party I had quitted! yet I enjoyed the quiet, the silence, and the
being alone once more.
_30th._—Encamped at Koorjah; a tufān of wind and sand all day; no grass
to be had or seen, the earth all dried up. In the Faquir’s Bāghīcha is a
picturesque tomb and ruined mosque.
_31st._—Encamped at Bulandsher; quitted the good Delhi road to turn to
Meerut; the wind very high, and miserably cold, the sand flying like
dust, covering every thing in the tent, and filling my eyes. The servants
annoyed me by disobeying orders; the food was bad,—the Arab’s saddle
wrung his back,—every thing went wrong. What a distance I have marched!
how generally barren, flat, and uninteresting the country has been! I saw
a very fine banyan tree a day or two ago, but the general face of the
country is a sandy plain, interspersed with a few green fields near the
wells, and topes of mango trees: in one of these topes my tent is pitched
to-day. My beautiful dog Nero is dead. What folly in this climate to be
fond of any thing!—it is sure to come to an untimely end.
_Feb. 3rd._—Encamped at Kerkowdah; at this spot my relative, Capt. E. S⸺,
met me, to conduct me to his house at Meerut. How changed we were! our
first impulse was to laugh at each other; when last we met we were happy
young creatures, playing at games of every sort on the lawn at Somerford
Booths. Our voices, the expression of our countenances, were, perhaps,
the same; in other respects the alteration was so great, how could we
help laughing at each other?
_4th._—Arrived at Meerut, pitched my tents in the Compound, _i.e._ the
grounds around the house.
_6th._—The Governor-General and the Camp arrived.
_7th._—Attended a ball given by the officers of the artillery to the
Governor-General; Lord Auckland and the Misses Eden were gracious, and
had I not been suffering from illness, I should have enjoyed the party.
_9th._—Drove to the Sūraj Kūnd, or Spring of the Sun, a remarkably large
tank; a little further on are a great number of satī mounds of peculiar
construction. In the evening attended a ball, given by the station to the
Governor-General and his party.
_12th._—Dined with General and Mrs. R⸺ to meet the Governor-General and
his party; the dinner was given in one great tent, which held eighty
guests at table. In the evening the party went to a ball given by the
Buffs to the Governor-General; the room was gay and well-lighted,
ornamented with rays of steel, formed of bayonets and ramrods; a sort
of throne was decorated with the colours of the regiment for the
Governor-General. The dancing was carried on with spirit; the finale an
excellent supper.
Mr. W⸺ invited me to Lahore, to witness the meeting of the
Governor-General and Runjeet Singh. I promised to accept the invitation,
if in that part of the world in November, but I fear I shall be far
distant. Captain O⸺ sent me three Italian greyhound pups; they dart
about in the most amusing manner. I hope the little delicate creatures
will live. Wishing to view the ruins of Delhi, I sent off my tents one
march to await me. In the evening I went to the theatre, to see the
performance of the privates of the artillery. The men built their own
theatre, painted their own scenes, and are themselves the performers. The
scenery is excellent, the house crowded; the men acted remarkably well;
and the ladies, strapping artillery men, six feet high, were the cause of
much laughter. A letter from Allahabad informed me, “the 12th of January
was one of the great bathing days, the river and its banks were covered
with the pilgrims; for days and days we saw them passing in one almost
continued line, very few rich people amongst them, principally the lower
orders. There is no tax now levied by the Government, but an officer is
sent down with a guard as usual. There was a storm in the morning, and
the rain had been pouring ever since. The poor creatures now on their
way in thousands for to-morrow’s bathing will suffer dreadfully, and all
their tamāshā be spoiled.”