CHAPTER XIII.

Topographical Sketch of the City of New Orleans.

The city of New Orleans occupies an oblong area, extending 3960 feet

along the eastern bank of Mississippi, embracing six squares, 319 feet

in length, and of equal breadth. Above and below this parallelogram are

the suburbs. Higher up is the suburb of St. Mary, still belonging to

the city corporation; farther up, the suburbs Duplantier, Soulel, La

Course, L'Annunciation, and Religieuses; below, the suburbs of Marigny,

Daunois, and Clouet; in the rear, St. Claude and Johnsburgh. The seven

streets, named Levee, Chartres-street, Royal-street, Bourbon, Burgundy,

Toulouse, and Rampart, run parallel with the river, and are intersected

at right angles by twelve others, running from the banks of the

Mississippi, called the Levee, in the direction of the swamps, the

Custom-house-street, Brenville, Conti, St. Louis, and Toulouse. The

city, with the exception of Levee and Rampart-streets, is paved, an

improvement which occasions great expense to the corporation, as the

stones are imported; flags, however, are not wanting even in the most

distant suburbs. The ground on which New Orleans is built, is a plain,

descending about seven feet from the banks of the river, towards the

swamps; and it is lower than the level of the Mississippi. It is secured

by a levee, which would afford very little resistance 400 miles higher

up; but here, where numerous bayons and natural channels have carried

off part of the waters to the gulf of Mexico, it answers every purpose.

About the city, the breadth of this plain is half a mile, and above it

three-quarters of a mile, terminating in the back-ground in impenetrable

swamps. The city and suburbs are lighted with reflecting lamps,

suspended in the middle of the streets. Between the pavement and the

road, gutters are made for the purpose of carrying off the filth into

the swamps, of refreshing the air with the water of the Mississippi,

with which these gutters communicate, and of allaying the dust during

the hot season. There are now about 6000 buildings, large and small, in

New Orleans. In the first mentioned three streets, and the greater part

of the upper suburb, the houses are throughout of brick; some are

plastered over to preserve them from the influence of the sultry

climate. Though building materials of every kind are imported, and

consequently very dear, yet the houses are rapidly changing from the

uncouth Spanish style, to more elegant forms. The new houses are mostly

three stories high, with balconies, and a summer-room with blinds. In

the lower suburbs, frame houses, with Spanish roofs, are still

prevalent. Two-thirds of the private buildings may at present be said

to rival those of northern cities, of an equal population. The public

edifices, however, are far inferior to those of the former, both in

style and execution. The most prominent is the cathedral, in the

middle of the town, separated from the bank of the Mississippi,

by the parade ground. It is of Spanish architecture, with a façade of

seventy feet, and a depth of 120, having on each side a steeple, and a

small cupola in the centre, which gives an air of dignity to a heavy and

ill-proportioned structure. All illusion, however, is dispelled on

entering the church. The Catholics had the strange notion of painting

the interior, taking for this purpose the most glaring colours that can

be found--green and purple. The church is painted over in fresco, with

these colours, and presents at one view a curious taste of the creoles.

The interior is not overloaded with decorations, as Catholic churches

generally are. The high altar, and two side ones, are, with an organ,

its only ornaments. Two tombs contain the remains of Baron Carondolet

and Mr. Marigny. On one side of the cathedral is the city-hall, and on

the other, the Presbytire. The former, erected in 1795, presents a

façade of 108 feet, in which the meetings of the city council are held.

The Presbytire, 114 in front, was built in 1813, and is the seat of

the supreme District Court, and of the Criminal Court of New Orleans.

These two edifices, and the cathedral between them, form together a

dignified whole. The government-house, at the corner of Toulouse and

Levee-streets, is an old and decaying edifice, where the legislature of

the state holds its meetings. In point of situation, (among grog shops),

and of style, it may be considered the poorest state-house in the Union.

The Protestants have three churches. The Episcopalian, at the corner of

Bourbon and Canal-streets, is an octagon edifice, with a cupola, in bad

taste. Out of gratitude to the late governor Clayborne, the inhabitants

have erected in the church-yard, a monument to his memory, with the

following inscription:

THE

CITIZENS OF NEW ORLEANS,

TO

TESTIFY THEIR RESPECT FOR THE VIRTUES

OF

W. C. C. CLAYBORNE,

LATE

GOVERNOR OF THE STATE OF LOUISIANA,

HAVE

ERECTED THIS MONUMENT.

The Presbyterian church, in the suburb of St. Mary, is a simple, but

chaste building, the expense of which amounted to 55,000 dollars. The

congregation being unwilling to defray the cost of its erection, it was

sold by the sheriff, and is now the property of Mr. Levy, an Israelite,

who leases it out to the congregation for 1500 dollars. The Methodist

church is a frame building, erected in 1826.

The public hospital, in Canal-street, consists of two square buildings,

with wards for fever maladies; for dysentery; one for chronic diseases;

another for females; a third for convalescents; a bathing-room, an

apothecary's-room, and a room for the physicians and assistants. Out of

1842 patients who were received into this hospital in the year 1824, 500

died, and the rest were discharged; out of 1700 received in 1825, 271

died, the others recovered. The accommodations in this house seem to be

respectable; it has one thing, however, in common with all hospitals,

that no one is tempted to return to it a second time.

There are now four banks in New Orleans; the United States Bank, with a

capital of one million of dollars; the Bank of the State, the Louisiana

Bank, and the Bank of New Orleans, each having likewise a capital of one

million of dollars. The insurance offices are five in number: the

Louisiana State Insurance Company, with a capital of 400,000 dollars;

the Fire Insurance Company, with 300,000; the Mississippi and Marine

Insurance Company, with 200,000; and the London Phoenix Insurance

Company. New Orleans has no less than six masonic lodges, including the

grand lodge of Louisiana; a French and an American theatre. The latter

was built by a Mr. Caldwell, from Nashville, in Tennessee, who has also

the management of it. It has the advantage in point of architecture, and

the French theatre in the selectness of its audience. Close to the

latter are the ball-rooms, where are given the only masked balls in the

United States. Among the public buildings may be reckoned the three

market halls, for the sale of provisions of every kind; one of them is

in the city, the two others on the upper and lower suburbs, on the

Levee.

The nuns have removed two miles below the town, and this convent is now

the residence of the Roman Catholic bishop. In the chapel divine

service is performed; this chapel, and the cathedral, are the places of

worship belonging to the Catholics.

The cotton-pressing establishments deserve to be mentioned. These are

now nine in number; the most important is that of Mr. Rilieux, at the

corner of Poydras-street. It has three presses; one worked by steam,

another by an hydraulic machine, and the third by horsepower. For the

security of cotton bales, eight wells, a fire-engine, &c., are within

the range of buildings; the expenses of which amounted to 150,000

dollars. The cotton press formerly belonged to a German commission

merchant, who failed in consequence of his extravagant cotton

speculations; it is simple, but of solid construction. It can receive

10,000 bales. The expenses of the building amounted to 90,000 dollars.

Besides these are the presses of Shiff, a Jew from Germany, Debays,

Lorger, &c. A steam saw-mill on the bank of the Mississippi, in the

upper suburb, with a few iron foundries, are the only manufacturies in

New Orleans; every thing being imported from the north.

Carondolots canal is in the rear of the town, towards the marshes. The

entrance is a basin, containing from thirty to fifty small vessels, and

opening into a canal, or rather a ditch, which has been cut through the

swamps, in order to join the Bayon St. John with New Orleans.

Small vessels drawing no more than six feet of water, arrive from Mobile

and Pensacola[H], through lake Pont Chartrain, Bayon St. John, and the

above-mentioned canal at New Orleans, performing only a third of the way

they would otherwise have to make by going up the Mississippi. They are

in general freighted with wood, planks, bricks, cotton, &c.; and take in

goods in return. This canal, which is of great importance for the part

of the city lying contiguous to the swamps, was commenced by Baron

Carondolet, but given up at a subsequent time, and resumed in the year

1815. Its cost was trifling compared with the advantages resulting to

this city, and the salutary effects it must have in draining off part of

the swamps.

[H] Pensacola has been established as a port for the United States navy:

1825-1826.

The president of the city council is a mayor, or Maire, a creole. His

police regulations deserve every praise, and New Orleans, which less

than fifteen years ago was the lurking hole of every assassin, is now in

point of security not inferior to any other city. The revenues of the

city corporation amount to 150,000 dollars, which are, however, found to

be insufficient, and loans are resorted to in order to cover the

expenses.

When the United States took possession of New Orleans, this town

consisted of 1000 houses, and 8000 inhabitants, black and white. In the

year 1820, it amounted to near 27,000; namely, 8000 white males, 5314

white females, 1500 foreigners, 2500 men, and 400 women of colour, 3000

male, and 4,500 female slaves; the population of the parish being then

14,000. In the year 1821, the population was 29,000; in 1822 it had

risen to 32,000; in the present year 1826, it amounts to upwards of

40,000; to be distinguished as follows: 14,500 white males, and 7500

white females, 1300 foreigners, 3690 free men, and 800 free women of

colour, 5500 male, and 6300 female slaves. The population of the parish

is 15,000.

As New Orleans, notwithstanding its being 109 miles distant from the

sea, is considered as a seaport, all the officers necessarily connected

with a place of that description reside there, as well as consuls from

every nation, having commercial intercourse with it;--from England,

Russia, Prussia, Denmark, Sweden, Hamburgh, the Netherlands, France,

Spain, Portugal, Sardinia, with others from the Southern Republics.

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