Transcriber's Note
Some typographical features could not be reproduced in this version.
Italics are therefore delimited with the underscore character as
_italic_. Any words or phrases appearing in mixed case using small
capital letters, are shifted to all upper case.
Please note that the longitudes used in this text, which predates the
establishment of Greenwich as the reference, used the nation's capitol,
Washington, D.C. (approx. W 77°) as its basis. Thus, Cincinnati, at
W 84° 30' on p. 1, is placed at a longitude of 7° 31'. Also, on p. 33,
the location of the state of Indiana is mistakenly given using seconds
(") of longitude, rather than minutes ('). These were corrected.
The spelling of place names was fluid at the time and all are retained
here.
Footnotes, which appeared on the bottom of pages, have been relocated
to follow the paragraph where they are referenced. They have been
lettered consecutively from A to K for ease of reference.
Please consult the transcriber's end note at the bottom of this text
for any other details.
THE
AMERICANS AS THEY ARE;
DESCRIBED IN
A TOUR
THROUGH THE VALLEY OF THE MISSISSIPPI.
BY THE AUTHOR OF
"AUSTRIA AS IT IS."
LONDON:
HURST, CHANCE, AND CO.
ST. PAUL'S CHURCH YARD.
1828.
LONDON:
Printed by Bradbury and Dent,
St. Dunstan's-ct., Fleet-st.
ADVERTISEMENT.
The publication of this tour was intended for the year 1827. Several
circumstances have prevented it.
The American is, as far as relates to his own country, justly supposed
to be prone to exaggeration. English travellers, on the contrary, are
apt to undervalue brother Jonathan and his country. The Author has twice
seen these countries, of whose present state he gives a sketch in the
following pages. He is far from claiming for his work any sort of
literary merit. Truth and practical observation are his chief points.
Whether his opinions and statements are correct, it remains for the
reader to judge, and experience to confirm.
_London, March, 1828._
PREFACE.
Upwards of half a century has now elapsed since the independence of
the United States became firmly established. During this period two
great questions have been solved, exposing the fallacies of human
calculations, which anticipated only present anarchy and ultimate
dissolution as the fate of the new Republics. The possibility of a
people governing themselves, and being prosperous and happy, time, the
sure ordeal of all projects, has at length demonstrated. Their political
infancy is over, they are approaching towards manhood, and fully
sensible of their strength, their first magistrate has ventured to
utter those important words contained in his address of 1820: that
"notwithstanding their neutrality, they would consider any attempt on
the part of the European Powers, to extend their system to any portion
of THEIR hemisphere, as dangerous to their peace and safety; and that
they could not admit of any projects of colonization on the part of
Europe." Thus, for the first time, they have asserted their right of
taking a part DE FACTO in the great transactions of European Powers, and
pronounced their declaration in a tone, which has certainly contributed
to the abandonment of those intentions which were fast ripening into
execution.
The important influence of American liberty throughout the civilised
world, has been already apparent; and more especially in France, in the
South American revolutions, and in the commotions in Spain, Portugal,
Naples, and Piedmont. These owe their origin, not to any instigation on
the part of the United States, but to the influence of their example in
raising the standard of freedom, and more than all, to the success which
crowned their efforts. Great has been on the other hand, the influence
of European politics on the North American nation. A party, existing
since the revolution, and extending its ramifications over the whole
United States, is now growing into importance, and guided by the
principles of European diplomacy, is rooting itself deeper and deeper,
drawing within its ranks the wealthy, the enlightened, the dissatisfied;
thus adding every day to its strength. We see, in short, the principle
of monarchy developing itself in the United States, and though it is not
attempted to establish it by means of a revolution, which would
infallibly fail, there is a design to bring it about by that cunning,
cautious, and I may add, American way, which must eventually succeed;
unless the spirit of freedom be sufficiently powerful to neutralize the
subtle poison in its progress, or to triumph over its revolutionary
results. There have occurred many changes in the United States within
the last ten years. The present rulers have succeeded in so amalgamating
opinions, that whatever may be said to the contrary, only two parties
are now in existence. These are the monarchists, who would become
governors, and the republicans, who would not be governed.
The object proposed in the following pages has been to exhibit to the
eyes of the European world, the real state of American affairs, divested
of all prejudice, and all party spirit. Adams on the whole is a
favourite with Great Britain. This empire however, has no reason to
admire him; should his plans succeed, the cost to Great Britain would be
the loss of her last possession in North America. But as long as the
American Republic continues united, this unwieldy mass of twenty-four
states can never become dangerous.
Of the different orders of society, there is yet little to be said, but
they are developing themselves as fast as wealth, ambition, luxury, and
the sciences on the one side, and poverty, ignorance, and indirect
oppression on the other, will permit them. There, as every where else,
this is the natural course of things. To show the state of society in
general, and the relative bearings of the different classes to each
other, and thus to afford a clear idea of what the United States really
are, is the second object attempted in this work. To represent social
intercourse and prevailing habits in such a manner as to enable the
future emigrant to follow the prescribed track, and to settle with
security and advantage to himself and to his new country; to afford him
the means of judging for himself, by giving him a complete view of
public and private life in general, as well as of each profession or
business in particular, is the third object here contemplated.
The capitalist, the merchant, the farmer, the physician, the lawyer, the
mechanic, cannot fail, I trust, to find adequate information respecting
the course which, on their settling in the Union, will be the most
eligible to pursue. Farther explanation I think unnecessary. He who
would consider the following condensed picture of Trans-atlantic society
and manners insufficient, would not be better informed, if I were to
enlarge the work to twice its size. Such an objection would shew him to
be unfit to adventure in the character of a settler in a country where
so many snares will beset his path, and call for no small degree of
natural shrewdness and penetration.
CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
Cincinnati.--Parting glance at Ohio.--Its Government and
Inhabitants.
CHAPTER II.
Tour through the state of Kentucky.--Bigbonelick.--Mammoths.--Two
Kentuckian Characters.--Kentuckian
Scenes.
CHAPTER III.
Vevay.--Geographical Sketch of the state of Indiana--Madison.--
Charleston.--Jeffersonville.--Clarksville.--New Albany.--The Falls of
Ohio.
CHAPTER IV.
Louisville.--Canal of Louisville.--Its Commerce.--Surrounding
Country.--Sketch of the state of Kentucky, and of its Inhabitants.
CHAPTER V.
A Keel-boat journey.--Description of the preparations.--Fall
of the Country.--Troy.--Lady Washington.--The River sport.--
Owensborough.--Henderson.
CHAPTER VI.
Mr. Owen's of Lanark, formerly Rapp's settlement.--Remarks on
it.--Keel-boat Scenes.--Cave in Rock.--Cumberland and
Tennessee rivers.--Fort Massai.
CHAPTER VII.
The Mississippi.--General Features of the state of Illinois, and of
its Inhabitants.
CHAPTER VIII.
Excursion to St. Louis.--Fall of the Country.--Sketch of the state of
Missouri.--Return to Trinity.
CHAPTER IX.
The state of Tennessee.--Steam boats on the Mississippi.--Flat Boats.
CHAPTER X.
Scenery along the Mississippi.--Hopefield.--St. Helena.--Arkansas
Territory.--Spanish Moss.--Vixburgh.
CHAPTER XI.
The city of Natchez.--Excursion to Palmira.--Plantations.--The cotton
planter of the state of Mississippi.--Remarks.--Return to Natchez.
CHAPTER XII.
Arrival at New Orleans.--Cursory reflections.
CHAPTER XIII.
Topographical sketch of the City of New Orleans.
CHAPTER XIV.
The situation of New Orleans considered in a commercial point of view.
CHAPTER XV.
Characteristic features of the Inhabitants of New Orleans and of
Louisiana.--Creoles.--Anglo Americans.
CHAPTER XVI.
Frenchmen.--Free people of colour.--Slaves.--Public spirit.--
Education.--State of religious worship.--Public entertainments.--
Theatres.--Balls, &c.
CHAPTER XVII.
The Climate of Louisiana.--The yellow fever.
CHAPTER XVIII.
Hints for Emigrants to Louisiana.--Planters.--Farmers.--Merchants.--
Mechanics.
CHAPTER XIX.
Geographical features of the state of Louisiana.--Conclusion.
AMERICA.
CHAPTER I.
Cincinnati.--Parting Glance at Ohio.--Character of its Government and
its Inhabitants.
The city of Cincinnati is the largest in the state of Ohio: for the last
eight years it has left even Pittsburgh far behind. It is situated in
39° 5' 54" north latitude, and 7° 31' west longitude, on the second bank
of the Ohio, rising gradually and extending to the west, the north, and
the east, for a distance of several miles. The lower part of the city
below the new warehouse, is exposed, during the spring tides, to
inundations which are not, however, productive of serious consequences;
the whole mass of water turning to the Kentuckian shore. The river is
here about a mile wide, and assumes the form of a half moon. When viewed
from the high banks, the mighty sheet of water, rolling down in a deep
bed, affords a splendid sight. In 1780, the spot where now stands one of
the prettiest towns of the Union, was a native forest. In that year, the
first attempt was made at forming a settlement in the country, by
erecting a blockhouse, which was called Fort Washington, and was
enlarged at a subsequent period. In the year 1788, Judge Symmes laid out
the town, whose occupants he drew from the New England States.
Successive attacks, however, of the Indians wearied them out, and the
greater part withdrew. The battle gained by General Wayne over these
natives, tranquillised the country; and after the year 1794, Cincinnati
rapidly improved. It became the capital of the western district, which
was erected into a territorial government. When Ohio was declared an
independent state, in the year 1800, Cincinnati continued to be the seat
of the legislature till 1806.
Fort Washington has since made room for peaceful dwellings. Their number
is at present 1560, with 12,000 inhabitants. The streets are regular,
broad, and mostly well paved. The main street, which runs the length of
a mile from the court-house down to the quay, is elegant.--Among the
public buildings, the court-house is constructed in an extremely simple
but noble style; the Episcopalian, the Catholic, and the Presbyterian
churches, the academy and the United States' bank, are handsome
buildings. Besides these, are churches for Presbyterians, Lutherans,
Methodists, Baptists, Swedenborghians, Unitarians, a Lancasterian
school, the farmers', the mechanics', and the Cincinnati banks, a
reading room with a well provided library, five newspaper printing
offices;--among these papers are the Cincinnati Literary Gazette, and a
price current--and the land office for the southern part of the state.
The colonnade of the theatre is, however, a strange specimen of the
architectural genius of the backwoods. Among the manufacturing
establishments, the principal are,--the steam mill on the river, a
saw-mill, cloth and cotton manufactories, several steam engines, iron
and nail manufactories, all on the steam principle. Cincinnati carries
on an important trade with New Orleans, and it may be considered as the
staple of the state. The produce of the whole state is brought to
Cincinnati, and shipped down the Ohio and Mississippi. The only
impediments to its uninterrupted trade, are the falls of the Ohio at
Louisville, which obstruct the navigation during eight months in the
year. These obstacles are now on the point of being removed. The exports
from Cincinnati are flour, whisky, salt, hams, pork, beef, dried and
fresh fruits, corn, &c.; the imports are cotton, sugar, rice, indigo,
tobacco, coffee, and spices. The manufactured goods are generally
brought in waggons from Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, and discharged
there. In order to improve the commerce of Cincinnati, an insurance
company has been formed. There is a committee established for the
inspection of vessels running between New Orleans and this place. There
are a number of steam and other boats building at the present time. For
the benefit of travellers, &c., a line of steam boats is established
between Cincinnati and Louisville; and they start regularly every second
day, performing the voyage of 115 miles to Louisville in twelve, and
back again in twenty hours.
There are in Cincinnati a great number of wholesale, commission, and
retail merchants; but the want of ready money is as much felt here as
anywhere else, and causes a stagnation of business. The inhabitants are
chiefly American born, with some admixture of Germans, French, and
Irish. As the former are mostly from the New England States, the general
character of the inhabitants has taken an adventurous turn, which is
conspicuous in their buildings. Most of the houses in the city are
elegant, many are truly beautiful; but they belong to the bank of the
United States, which possesses at least 200 of the finest houses in
Cincinnati. The building mania obtained such strong hold of the
inhabitants, that most of them forgot their actual means; and
accordingly, having drawn money from the bank which they were unable to
refund, they had at last to give up lots and buildings to the United
States' bank. Though this city possesses in itself many advantages over
other towns of the Ohio, and has much the start of them in point of
commerce and manufactures, yet there is little expectation of its
increasing in the same proportion as it has hitherto done. Neither of
the canals which are intended to join the Ohio, will come up as far as
this town. The great Ohio canal is to run near the mouth of the Sciota
river; the _Dayton_ canal below Cincinnati; and these places will
attract a considerable part of the population. The third canal, which is
to connect the waters of the Chesapeake Bay and of the Ohio, will be
more advantageous to the towns of Upper Ohio, Marietta, Steubenville,
and Wheeling. Commerce will thus be more equally divided, and Cincinnati
cannot always expect to continue as it has hitherto been, the staple
of the trade to the southward of the Ohio. The merchant possessed
of a moderate capital, if he consult his interest, will not establish
himself at Cincinnati, but at one of the intermediate places of the
above-mentioned three canals. The farmer has eligible spots in the
Tuscarora valleys, about New Lancaster, Columbus, Franklintown,
Pickaway, Chilicathe, and especially in the Sandusky counties on lake
Erie. Mechanics, such as carpenters, cabinet makers, &c., will also find
these new settlements more advantageous markets for their industry than
the city of Cincinnati itself. The manufacturers, of every kind, will
choose either Cincinnati or Pittsburgh, but still give the preference
to the former, in spite of its smoke and dirt, as the place most
favoured by natural position, which must necessarily become the first
manufacturing town of the Union, notwithstanding the well-known
inactivity of the Pennsylvanians. But as the state of Ohio must look to
its manufactures, unless it chooses to continue a loser by the exchange
of its raw produce; Cincinnati, whose manufactures have attained a high
degree of perfection, favoured as it is by its coal mines, its water
communication, and the fertility and consequent cheapness of the
necessaries of life, must always possess very great advantages.
Travellers arriving from the north, proceed to the south by way of
Louisville on board a steam boat; and coming from thence, they go either
to the eastward to Philadelphia by the mail stage, or by the same
conveyance northward, through Chilicathe and Columbus, to lake Erie,
where they embark for Buffalo.
During my stay, on the twenty-fifth of October, a question of some
importance for the inhabitants of Cincinnati was to be decided. It was
concerning a stricter police and its necessary regulations. The city
council, with the wealthier class of inhabitants, had been for some time
previous to the decision, engaged in preparing and gaining over the
multitude. I went to the court-house in company with Mr. Bama, a
wholesale merchant, and several gentlemen, to hear the speeches
delivered on both sides, and the result of the motion. It was four
o'clock when we arrived, and about 600 persons were assembled in and
outside of the court-house. The noise, however, was such, that it was
impossible to hear more than detached periods. At eight o'clock, when
almost dark, they had gone through the business, and the poll was about
to commence. The party for abridging public liberty was ordered to go
out on the left:--those who insisted on the preservation of the present
order of things, were to draw off to the right. On arriving before the
court-house, they ranged themselves in two separate ranks, each of which
was counted by the presiding judge. There was a majority of 72 votes in
favour of the party which upheld the present system, and the question
was, therefore, decided in favour of popular liberty. I found here, as
well as everywhere else, that the freedom of a community is nowhere more
exposed to encroachments than in large towns, where dissipation and
occupations of every kind are likely to engross the attention of the
people, who leave the magistrates to do what they please. The city
council were on the point of obtaining the majority, had it not been for
the farmers whom the market-day had drawn to town. These, of course, did
not fail to open the eyes of the honest burghers; and the question was
accordingly negatived.
The prevailing manners of society at Cincinnati, are those peculiar to
larger cities, without the formalities and mannerism of the eastern sea
ports. Freedom of thought prevails in a high degree, and toleration is
exercised without limitation. The women are considered very handsome;
their deportment is free from pride; but simple and unassuming as
they appear, they evince a high taste for literary and mental
accomplishments. The Literary Gazette owes its origin to their united
efforts. There is no doubt that the commanding situation of this
beautiful town, its majestic river, its mild climate, which may be
compared to the south of France, and the liberal spirit of its
inhabitants, contribute to render this place, both in a physical and
moral point of view, one of the most eligible residences in the Union.
As much, indeed, may be said of the state of Ohio in general. It
combines in itself all the elements that tend to make its inhabitants
the happiest people on the face of the earth. Nature has done every
thing in favour of this country. In point of fertility, it excels
every one of the thirteen old states; and, owing to its political
institutions, and the abolition of slavery, it has taken the lead among
those newly created.
Ohio is bounded on the north by lake Erie, on the west by the state
of Indiana, on the south by the river Ohio, and on the east by
Pennsylvania, comprising an area of 4,000 square miles; it is divided
into 71 counties, and has a population of 72,000 souls. This state forms
the eastern extremity of the great valley of the Mississippi, which has
the Alleghany for its eastern, and the Rocky Mountains for its western
boundary, sinking by degrees as it approaches the Mississippi, and
extending more than a thousand miles towards the south. The climate of
this state, which presents for the most part the form of an elevated
plain, running between the mountainous Pennsylvania and the swampy
Mississippi states, is temperate, extending from 38° 28', to 72° 58'
northern latitude, and from 3° 32', to 7° 40' west longitude. Its
temperature varies less than that of other states. Its soil is
inexhaustible; its fertility, especially in the northern and southern
parts, being truly astonishing; and though some portions have been
cultivated upwards of thirty years without being manured, the land still
yields the same quantity of produce. The northern inhabitants of the
state send their produce down to New York by lake Erie, and the Buffalo
canal; the southern find a market in Louisiana and New Orleans. The
middle part suffered greatly from the want of water communication, to
which they are now on the point of applying a remedy, in order to obtain
an intercourse with New York; which, as it is well known, has effected
by means of a canal, a water communication with lake Erie. The Ohions
commenced a canal in the year 1825, beginning at Cleveland on the
shores of lake Erie, taking thence a southern course through Tuscarora
county at Zanesville, turning to the right six miles below Columbus, and
running down to the shores of the Ohio. It is intended to be completed
in the space of three years. The state of Ohio expects from this canal,
which if the pecuniary means be considered may be called a gigantic
undertaking, a ready market for its produce in the city and state of New
York; looking forward, at the same time, to become the staple for the
trade between New York and New Orleans. It cannot fail, however, to be
productive of still greater advantage to the United States in general,
and to the cities of New York and New Orleans in particular, which will
thus have the means of a land or water communication, over a space of
nearly 3,000 miles. The first idea of this canal originated with the
state of New York; the citizens of which, when they had finished their
own, encouraged those of Ohio to enter upon a similar undertaking.
Encouragement was not much wanting; the plan of joining the waters of
the Hudson and the Mississippi was taken up with enthusiasm; canal
committees were formed; most of the towns in the state sent their
deputies, and after the customary debates, the resolution was adopted.
The only difficulty was to raise the requisite funds. New York offered
to defray the necessary expenses, if allowed the revenue arising from
the new canal, for a certain period. The pride of the Ohions revolted
against the proposition; they preferred raising a loan in New York. In
this respect the government of the state committed a great error. A loan
of three millions of dollars, and the necessary evils attendant upon it,
are certainly a heavy burthen to a new state, which can scarcely reckon
an existence of forty years, especially as the new canal may be
considered a continuation of the great one of New York, and as the
advantage resulting from it to the state can bear no comparison with
that which New York derives from its own.
New York, already the most important commercial city of the Union,
will, after the completion of this canal, enjoy the trade of the
western and south-western states, Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Tennessee,
Mississippi, &c.; and thus the Ohio canal will rather contribute to the
aggrandizement of New York, than to that of Ohio. Their debt, so out of
proportion with the resources of the state, made the people of Ohio
relax in their ardour for carrying this project into effect, and gave
rise to discontent against the administration of the state. But the same
case happened in New York, and the exultation of the inhabitants of
Ohio, when they see the work accomplished, will scarcely yield to that
which was manifested by the people of the former state. There is,
nevertheless, not any city in the state of Ohio to be compared with New
York, Philadelphia, or Boston, nor is it probable there will be. At
the same time this want is largely compensated by the absence of
immorality and luxury--evils necessarily attached to large and opulent
cities--which may be said to attract the heart's blood of the country,
and send forth the very dregs of it in return. In Ohio, wealth is not
accumulated in one place, or in a few hands; it is visibly diffused over
the whole community. The country towns and villages are invariably
constructed in a more elegant and tasteful manner than those of
Pennsylvania, and the Northern states. There is something grand in
their plan and execution, though the prevailing want or insufficiency of
means to carry them through, is still an obstacle in the way. The farms
and country houses are elegant; I saw hundreds of them, which no English
nobleman would be ashamed of. They are generally of brick, sometimes
of wood, and built in a tasteful style. The turnpike roads are in
excellent order. It is astonishing to see what has been done during a
few years, and under an increasing scarcity of money, by the mere dint
of industry. The traveller will seldom have reason to rail at bad roads
or bad taverns; I could only complain of one of the latter, which stands
upon a road that is seldom travelled. In every county town there are at
least two elegant inns, and the tables are loaded with such a variety of
venison and dishes of every kind, that even a _gourmand_ could not
justly complain.
The whole state bespeaks a wealthy condition, which, far removed from
riches, rests on the surest foundation--the fertility of the soil, and
the persevering industry of its cultivators. Although behind-hand,
perhaps, with the Yankees in literary accomplishments, they are far more
liberal, and intelligent, being endowed with a strong and enterprising
mind. Crimes are here less frequently committed, the inhabitants
consisting of the most respectable classes of the eastern and foreign
states. Only men of moderate property came into the state; the wealthy
were deterred by the difficulties attending a new settlement; the
indigent by the impossibility of getting vacant lands, and thus the
state remained equally free from money-born aristocrats, (certainly the
worst in the world), and from beggars. Its form of government bears
internal evidence of this, the governor of Ohio having neither the
revenue, nor the power of the eastern governors. He is elected for the
term of two years. The constitution bespeaks independence and
liberality. The number of senators cannot exceed thirty, nor the
representatives seventy-two. The general assembly has the sole power of
enacting laws, the signature of the governor being in no case necessary.
The judges are chosen by the legislature for seven years, and the
justices of the peace for the term of three years, by their respective
townships. The resolutions of their assembly are quite free from that
narrow-minded prejudice found in Pennsylvania and the southern states,
which sees in the law of Moses the only rule for direction, and loses
sight of that liberal spirit which pervades the law of Christ. The
inhabitants of Ohio are not, however, so religious as their neighbours,
the Pennsylvanians. Their ministers exercise little influence; and
numerous sects contribute greatly to lessen their authority, which is
certainly not the case in the north. The people of Ohio are equally free
from the uncultivated and rude character of the western American, and
from the innate wiliness of the Yankees. This state is not unlike a
vigorous and blooming youth, who is approaching to manhood, and whose
natural form and manner excite our just admiration.