FLOWERS
There are a number of greenhouse crops which are easily within the reach
of the amateur who has at his disposal a small glass structure. One is
apt to feel that something much more elaborate than the simple means at
his hands are required to produce the handsome flowers or beautiful
ferns which may be seen in the florist's window. It is true that many
things are beyond his achievement. He cannot grow gigantic American
Beauties on stems several feet long, nor present his friends at
Christmas with the most delicate orchids; but he can very easily have
carnations more beautiful, because they will be fresher if not quite so
large, than any which can be had at the glass-fronted shops; and
cyclamen as beautiful, and much more serviceable, than any orchid that
ever hung from a precarious basket. To accomplish such results requires
not so much elaborate equipment as unremitting care--and not eternal
fussing but regular thought and attention.
There is, for instance, no more well beloved flower than the carnation,
which entirely deserves the place it has won in flower-lovers' hearts
beside, if not actually ahead of, the rose. As a plant it will stand
all kinds of abuse, and yet, under the care which any amateur can give
it, will produce an abundance of most beautiful bloom. Within a
comparatively few years the carnation, as indeed a number of other
flowers, has been developed to nearly twice its former size, and the
number of beautiful shades obtainable has also increased many times.
To be grown at its best the carnation should have a rather cool
temperature and plenty of ventilation, and these two requirements help
to place it within reach of the small greenhouse operator. If only a few
plants are to be grown, they may be purchased from a local florist, or
obtained by mail from a seed house. If as few as two or three dozen
plants are to be kept--and a surprising number of blooms may be had from
a single dozen--they may be kept in pots. Use five-or six-inch pots and
rich earth, with frequent applications of liquid manure, as described
later. If, however, part of a bench can be given to them, the results
will be more satisfactory. The bench should be well drained and contain
four or five inches of rich soil, such as already described. If it is
too late to compose a soil of this kind, use any rich garden loam and
well rotted manure, in the proportions of five or six to one. For plants
to begin blooming in the early winter, they should be put in during
August, but for one's own use a later planting will do. For this year,
if you are too late, get a few plants and keep them in pots. Next year
buy before March a hundred or so rooted cuttings, or in April small
plants, and set them out before the middle of May. Cultivate well during
the summer, being sure to keep all flower buds pinched off, and have a
nice supply of your own plants ready for next fall.
In putting the plants into the bench (or pots) select a cloudy day, and
then keep them shaded for a few days, with frequent syringing of the
foliage, until they become established. Keep the night temperature very
little above fifty degrees, and not above seventy-five in the daytime,
while sixty will do in cloudy weather. As to the watering, they should
be well soaked when put in, and thereafter only as the ground becomes
dry, when it should again be wet, care being taken to wet the foliage as
little as possible. In the mornings, and on bright days, syringing the
foliage will be beneficial, but never in dull weather, as the leaves
should never be wet over night.
As the flower stems begin to shoot up they will need support. If you can
get one of the many forms of wire supports used by commercial florists,
so much the better; but if these are not obtainable the old method of
stakes and strings (or preferably raffia) will do very well. To obtain
large flowers the flower stems must be "disbudded"--that is all but the
end bud on each stalk should be pinched off, thus throwing all the
strength into one large flower. If, on the other hand, the terminal bud
is taken off, and several of the side buds left, the result will be a
beautiful cluster of blooms, more pleasing, to my mind, than the single
large flowers, though not so valuable commercially.
There are any number of wonderful new varieties, but the white, pink and
light pink Enchantress, and one of the standard reds will give
satisfaction.
VIOLETS
Requiring even less heat than the carnation is the old-time and all-time
favorite, the violet. With no greenhouse at all, these can be grown
beautifully, simply with the aid of a coldframe. But where a house is to
be had, the season of blooming is, of course, much longer. The essential
thing is to get strong, healthy plants. As with the carnations, if only
a few are wanted, they may be grown in pots, using the six-inch size.
The soil, whether for pots or benches, should be somewhat heavier than
that prepared for carnations, using one-fourth to one-fifth cow manure
added to the loam or rotted sod. If a bench is used, select one as near
the glass as you can. Take in the plants with as little disturbance as
possible, and keep them shaded for a few days, as with carnations. The
plants will require to be about eight inches apart. As for care, apply
water only when the bed has begun to dry, and then until the bench is
soaked through. Pots will, of course, require more frequent attention in
this matter than a bench. Keep all old leaves picked off and the soil
stirred about the plants, with syringing and fumigating as suggested on
page 134. The temperature will be best as low as forty-five degrees at
night, and as little above fifteen more in the daytime as possible.
Where no artificial heat can be had, a fine crop through the spring
months may be had by making a smaller frame inside the regular
coldframe, and packing this space with fine dry manure, as well as
banking the outer frame. This arrangement, with two sash and mats in the
coldest weather, will keep the plants growing most of the winter, and
certainly the abundance of fragrant blooms at a season when flowers are
most scarce will amply repay you for the trouble. Some prefer the single
to the double blossoms. Marie Louise and Lady Hume Campbell (double
blue); Swanley White, and California and Princesse de Galles (single
blue) are the best varieties. Plants may be purchased of most large
florists or from seedsmen.
FERNS
Many of the decorative ferns may also be grown to perfection in the
small house, at a moderate temperature, fifty to sixty degrees, the
nearer sixty the better. The Boston fern (_Nephrolepis exaltata
Bostoniensis_) and its improved form, _Scottii_, are two of the best for
house use, and if grown in the greenhouse until of good size and form,
they will make unusual and very acceptable holiday or birthday gifts. A
few small plants obtained from the florist and kept where they do not
get a direct glare of light, watered frequently enough so that the soil
is always moist (but never "sopping"), and plenty of fresh air in bright
weather, will rapidly make fine plants. If you happen to have a few old
plants on hand, they may be increased readily by division. Separate the
old crowns into a few small plants. Don't make them very small or they
will not renew as readily. Keep them, if possible, a little above sixty
degrees, with plenty of moisture. Loam and sand, to which is added about
the same amount of leaf-mould, will make a proper soil.
Asparagus ferns will also respond to about the same care, though
thriving in an even lower temperature. _Asparagus plumosus nanus_, the
Lace fern, is especially delicate and graceful and makes an ideal small
table plant to use with flowers.
CHRYSANTHEMUMS
These are propagated by cuttings, which root very easily. I would
suggest, however, dipping them first in a wash of one part Aphine to
thirty-five parts water, and then rinsing in clear cold water, in order
to rid them entirely of any black aphis there may be present. Give them
a clean start, and it will be much easier to keep them clean, as they
must be kept to make good healthy plants.
If you have not already a stock on hand, I would suggest going to some
florist's in the chrysanthemum season and making a list of the varieties
which particularly please you. Later, say in February or March, you can
get cuttings of these, already rooted if you like, but it's more fun to
root them yourself.
Pot off in two-and-one-half-inch pots, and shift on as rapidly as the
roots develop. Use, after the first potting, a very rich soil, and give
plenty of water. Chrysanthemums are very gross feeders and the secret of
success with them lies in keeping them growing on from the beginning as
rapidly as possible, without a check. Keep at about fifty-five degrees
and repot as frequently as required.
If they are to be grown in a bed or bench, have the soil ready by the
first part of June. The distance apart will be determined by the method
by which they are to be grown--six or eight inches if to "single stems"
with the great big flowers one sees at the florist's; about eight, ten
or twelve if three blooms are to be had from each plant. Of course that
will be determined by individual taste; but personally I prefer the
"spray" form, growing a dozen or more to each plant. They should be
syringed frequently and given partial shade. A good way is to spray
onto the roof a mixture of lime-water, about as thick as milk, or white
lead and naphtha in solution.
As soon as they are well established and growing, decision must be made
as to how they are to be grown. If more than one flower to a plant is
wanted, pinch out the big top bud and as the side buds develop, take
them all off to the number of flowers required, two, three or more as
the case may be. If sprays are wanted, pinch out the end buds of these
side shoots also when they get about three inches long, and all but a
few of the side buds on the shoots.
If at any time during growth the plants seem to be checked, or lose
their healthy dark green color, it is probable that they are not getting
enough food and should be given top dressings or liquid manure
accordingly.
Or if one does not want to devote space in the greenhouse to them for so
long a time (although they occupy it when there is little other use for
it) the plants may be grown in pots, the final shift being into six-or
seven-inch. They are kept in a cool house, or in a shaded place
out-of-doors, plunged in coal ashes. One advantage of this method is, of
course, that they can be brought into the dwelling house while in bloom.
In either case, the plants must be watched carefully for black fly,
which can be kept off with Aphine. The plants will also need supports
of twine or wire, or stakes, whether in the beds or in pots.
The usual method is to cut back the plants after blooming, store in a
cold place and start later into new growth for cuttings. A better way is
to set a few plants out early in the spring--one of each variety will
give an abundance of plants for home use. Cuttings can be taken from
these that will be just right for late flowers. These stock plants are
cut back in the fall, taken up and stored in a deep box, keeping as cold
as possible without freezing.
Varieties are so numerous, so constantly changing, of so many types,
that it would be unsatisfactory to give a list. The best way, as
mentioned before, is to get a list of the sort you like, while they are
in bloom at the florists.
ROSES
It is much more difficult to grow good roses than to grow either
chrysanthemums or carnations. They are more particular as to soil and as
to temperature, and more quickly affected by insects and disease.
Nevertheless there is no reason why the amateur who is willing to be
painstaking should not succeed with the hardier varieties. Some roses
are much more easily grown than others. Plants may be grown from
cuttings of the ripened wood, which should have become too hard to
comply with the "snapping test" (see page 30) used for most other
plants. By far the best way for the beginner, however, is to buy from
the nurserymen or florist. This is especially true of the many sorts
which do better when grafted on a strong growing stock.
There are two ways of buying the plants: either in the dormant state, or
growing, out of pots. In the first way you get the dry roots and canes
(2-year olds) from the nursery as early as possible in the spring and
set them in nine-inch pots to plunge outdoors, or boxes, allowing 6 x 6
to 12 inches for room if you want them for use in the house in the
winter. Cut back one-half at time of planting, and after watering to
bring the soil to the right degree of moisture, go very light with it
until the plants begin active growth, when it is gradually increased. As
with chrysanthemums, as the plants get large, fertilizers and liquid
manure must be given to maintain the supply of plant food. Let the
plants stay out when cold weather comes, until the leaves have dropped
and then store until December or January in a cold dry place where they
will not be frozen too hard or exposed to repeated thawings--a trial
that few plants can survive. Bring into warmth as required.
The above treatment is for plants for the house. For the greenhouse
bench get plants that are growing. They should be clean and healthy, in
four-or five-inch pots. They are set 12 x 12 to 12 x 16 inches apart,
depending upon whether the variety is a very robust grower. The best
time for setting is April to July first, according to season in which it
is desired to get most bloom. As a rule early planting is the more
satisfactory.
One of the most important points in success with roses is to provide
thorough drainage. Even when raised beds are used, as will generally be
the case in small houses, wide cracks should be left every six inches or
so. If the house is low, room may be saved by making a "solid" bed
directly upon the ground, putting in seven or eight inches of prepared
soil on top of two or three inches of clinkers, small stone or gravel.
The preparation of the soil is also a matter of great importance. It
should be rather "heavy," that is, with considerably more clay than
average plant soil. Five parts rotted loam sod, to one to two parts
rotted cow manure, is a good mixture. _It should be thoroughly composted
and rotted up._ When filling the bench press well down and if possible
give time to settle before putting in the plants.
The plants should be set in firmly. Keep shaded and syringe daily in the
morning until well established. Great care must be taken to guard
against any sudden changes, so that it is best to give ventilation
gradually and keep a close watch of temperature, which should be kept
from fifty-five to fifty-eight at night in cold weather.
Care should be taken to water early in the morning, that the leaves may
dry off by night. At the same time it is well to keep the atmosphere as
moist as possible to prevent trouble from the red spider (see page 134)
which is perhaps the greatest enemy of the rose under glass.
As large growth is reached, liquid manure or extra food in the form of
dry fertilizer must be given, a good mixture for the latter being 1 lb.
of nitrate of soda, one of sulphate of potash and ten of fine bone. Wood
ashes sprinkled quite thick upon the soil and worked in are also good.
As the plants grow tall, they will have to be given support by tying
either to stakes or wires. It is well to pick off the first buds also,
so that mature growth may be made before they begin to flower heavily.
The plants should at all times be kept scrupulously clean.
The roses suited for growing in pots or boxes, to be dried off and
brought into heat in January or February, are the hybrid perpetuals, and
the newer ramblers, Crimson, Baby White and Baby Pink.
For growing in benches, as described, the teas are used. Among the best
of the standard sorts of these are Bride, Perle, Kaiserin Augusta
Victoria, Bridesmaid, Pres. Carnot, Meteor, Killarney. New sorts are
constantly being tried, and some of these are improvements over old
sorts. The catalogues give full description.
For growing at a low temperature, fifty-five degrees or so, the
following are good: Wootton, Papa Gontier, red; Perle, yellow;
Bridesmaid, large pink; Mad. Cousin, small pink; Bride, white. The above
will make a good collection for the beginner to try his or her hand
with.