WEAVING-SCHOOLS.

In all the ordinary manufacturing arts, the common practice is to

learn by apprenticeships; that is to say, the young who are put to

any craft are left to pick up information over a course of several

years by imitating the operations of the journeymen among whom they

are placed. No teacher sets himself specially to tell them how things

are to be done, or how they may be improved upon by an ingenious

consideration of results. The craft, whatever it is, takes its

chance. In some instances, from generation to generation, it pursues

a jog-trot routine; in others it makes advances through the peculiar

thoughtfulness of individuals. In numerous cases, the keenness of

competition forces on improvements. Manufacturers try to outdo each

other. But even in these cases, the actual operatives are only

mechanically concerned. They obey orders, but do not originate.

Thoughtful persons have latterly been of opinion that this state of

affairs is not satisfactory. They think that instead of the chance

and mechanical instruction through apprenticeship, there ought to be

a course of systematic teaching by experts in the several crafts,

at least those in which great ingenuity and the cultivation of

original ideas are required, with a view to national advantages.

Hence, schools of practical science and technical instruction, to

which public attention has been occasionally drawn. Much has been

done in this respect by certain continental countries, in the hope of

outrivalling British manufactures; and we may be said to have come

to this, that the old chance method of acquiring skill in certain

lines of industry will not do any longer. With these preliminary

remarks, we proceed to mention that in Belgium and Germany, schools

of practical trade-instruction have existed for years in almost every

corporate town, under the auspices of the municipality. Now, however,

the growing rivalry of these countries with our own in more than one

staple industry, has at length impressed British manufacturers with

the need of taking similar means to withstand the pressure of such

competition. Sharing these views, the promoters of the Yorkshire

College some time ago suggested to the Ancient and Honourable Company

of Cloth-workers how effectively the wants of the case might be met

in the northern counties by providing, as a special department of the

college, means for instruction in the manufacture of textile fabrics

and designs. The suggestion was accepted in a generous spirit, all

the more readily as those who initiated the scheme had personally

pledged their own faith in it by subscriptions ranging from fifty to

two thousand pounds. Among the munificent contributors of the larger

amount were the Duke of Devonshire, Sir A. Fairbairn, and various

local firms. Encouraged by the appreciative attitude of those most

familiar with the requirements of the woollen trade, the Company at

once entered upon this new sphere of active usefulness, granting in

the first place an endowment of five hundred and twenty pounds per

annum. Subsequently they offered a further contribution of no less than

ten thousand pounds, to provide adequate buildings and appliances for

the Textile Industries Department. This extension of their original

purpose was mainly due to the immediate and decided success of the

experiment. In some measure, however, it was also the fruit of an

interesting and valuable Report presented to the Company by Mr John

Beaumont, the instructor of the department, after having made, at their

instance, a journey of inspection among the weaving-schools of the

continent. Accompanied by Mr Walter S. B. M'Laren, M.A., Mr Beaumont

made a six weeks' tour, during which he visited, chiefly in Germany,

twenty-four weaving and seven polytechnic schools. Some of these are

exclusively for instruction in weaving, while others are departments

of larger technical colleges, as is the case in Leeds. The Report has

been printed simply for private circulation, but we are permitted to

glean its leading facts and suggestions, before describing briefly how

far these are being applied to the new enterprise in the capital of the

West Riding.

Among the best schools of the kind in Belgium are those of Ghent and

Verviers, in both of which the instruction is free. The only conditions

imposed upon students, who must be more than twelve years of age, are

that they shall be able to write correctly and know the four simple

rules of arithmetic. There are also in Belgium apprentice schools or

workshops for apprentices, managed principally by the manufacturers of

the different towns, who send work to be done in them. Throughout the

whole of France there is likewise a movement in favour of technical

education, and among the subjects which it is generally agreed must be

taught, theoretically and practically, weaving takes a front place.

At such towns as Rheims, Rouen, Lille, Lyons, Elbeuf, and Amiens,

weaving-schools have been opened with success, and enjoy the benefit

of government aid. In the first two named, what are known as the

'Industrial Societies' have provided, for the use of the manufacturers

generally and also of the weaving students, large collections of

patterns of cloth of all materials, arranged systematically in books.

At Rheims the collection dates back to the year 1800, and is both

interesting and useful, as shewing the various patterns and materials

in use during this century. In Germany technical education is much more

fully developed than in either France or Belgium, every town having its

_Gewerbe_ or trade-school, giving practical instruction.

At Chemnitz a new Gewerbe school is nearly completed, which puts all

others into the shade. Its cost will be more than eighty thousand

pounds, and it will accommodate between six and seven hundred students,

presided over by a staff of nearly forty professors. It possesses a

library of nine thousand volumes, upon which is spent three hundred

pounds a year, out of an annual grant of seven thousand pounds from

the government. In noticing the polytechnic schools, or technical

universities which exist in nearly every important town in Germany,

the commissioners incidentally mention having seen in the one at

Aix-la-Chapelle a number of packing-cases, which they were told

contained models of English patent machines, sent as a present by the

English government, at the request of the Prince Imperial of Germany.

This of course gives rise to a suggestion that the government might

regard home claims with equal favour. The best polytechnic in Austria

is undoubtedly that of Vienna, which has no fewer than one thousand

two hundred students. The Textile Industries Department of its museum

is very complete, comprising specimens of almost every manufactured

article in its various stages from the raw material up to the finished

piece of goods. In a similar museum at Berlin there are models of

almost every machine used in either the cotton or woollen trade. Not

only are there models of machines now in use, but also of those which

have been long since superseded. The obvious advantage of this variety

is that the students see what have been the improvements gradually made

in machinery, and it enables them to study the principle upon which the

different machines have been worked. The best schools, Chemnitz and

Reutlingen for example, have a great assortment of hand-looms, such

as treadles, machines, and jacquards--in order to produce patterns,

simple and figured, in every material. None of the schools confine

their teaching to the manufacture of one class of goods only. Although

each devotes most attention to the material and style of cloth chiefly

manufactured in the district in which it is situated, yet all teach

other branches of weaving; which is thought a material advantage.

To give the students some insight into the practical management of

factories, they are in many cases allowed by the manufacturers of the

town to visit their mills on stated days. This is unquestionably a

great advantage to the students, shewing them on a large scale and from

a business point of view those things which they are themselves doing

on a small scale. In many of the schools the instruction is free. In

those where charges are made, it is found that wherever the fees are

low enough, the working men take advantage of the schools, and are

thus made into skilful workmen and overlookers. The low fees do not

drive away the sons of manufacturers; and the schools which are within

the reach of all are therefore much more popular and useful than those

which, from the larger fees charged, are more exclusive.

In our own country the object of weaving-schools is much misunderstood,

many people having an idea that they are simply meant to teach workmen

the management of a loom. To correct such a mistaken impression, it

may be worth while to quote the prospectus of the Mülheim School,

which describes that institution (a model one) as devoting itself to

the task of 'educating overseers and manufacturers in all branches of

weaving, and furnishing young men who wish to become buyers or sellers

of manufactured goods with an exact knowledge of manufacturing, and

therefore with a correct judgment of goods.' By the training which

employers themselves receive in these schools, they are able to look

after their businesses more thoroughly, and to supervise work for which

they would not otherwise be qualified.

With a view to securing these and kindred benefits in the largest

possible measure, various suggestions were made by the commissioners

for the improvement of weaving-schools opened in this country. Means

are not lacking to realise these advantages; but further time is

required for the full development of the scheme. Meantime it is

sufficiently proved at Leeds that technical education is by no means a

myth, but may have an appreciable influence upon manufactures. Both at

the day and evening classes there is a large, sometimes an overflowing

attendance of students, chiefly young men of the middle class, who

either are or expect to be engaged in textile industries. In order to

facilitate the more adequate and efficient fulfilment of its purposes,

the college will shortly enter upon the possession of Beechgrove, a

suburban estate which the executive council have purchased for their

new suite of buildings. At present it occupies temporary but well

adapted premises, which, pending the erection of the new college, have

had to be once more enlarged, in order that the Textile Industries

Department may have the accommodation requisite for sixteen looms.

The pupils are assisted to arrange and design new patterns, or to

classify and mingle colours with taste and judgment. They also

receive instruction as to the mixing, working, and blending of the

raw material; how to estimate the quality of water for manufacturing

purposes; the proper use of the best ingredients for dyeing; the

processes of carding, spinning, and fulling; the operations of weaving,

and the mechanism of the loom, &c. In addition to the manipulative

work, lectures are given on wool, mungo, shoddy, alpaca, and silk; also

on the applications of chemistry to the manufacture and colouring of

textile fabrics. The endowment provided by the Clothworkers' Company

includes eight scholarships--four of thirty pounds, and four of

twenty-five pounds per annum--for which there is a good competition. In

other respects also, the appreciative interest and intelligence shewn

by the students give encouraging hope of great practical benefit.

The success of the Yorkshire College has stimulated the movement

in other parts of the kingdom in favour of this phase of technical

education. The School of Chemistry lately founded at Bristol by the

same guild of Clothworkers, in connection with the dyeing industries of

the neighbourhood, is now in working order, and a textile instructor

has been appointed for the Stroud school. Weaving-schools are also

being established at Huddersfield and Glasgow, with the prospect of

more to follow in other industrial centres. Such measures indicate a

widening recognition of the truth, that our craftsmen must be taught to

work upon the basis of scientific knowledge, rather than rely so much

as heretofore on mere rule of thumb, if our country is to maintain its

manufacturing supremacy.

Chambers's Journal of Popular Literature, Science, and Art, No. 716 September 15, 1877 · 第 15 / 22 题