characters, or hieroglyphics, when they occurred to me in dreams, which
was indeed but seldom, and used to find they foretold some things to me;
yet I could not but observe a remarkable instance which we had here of
relying on dreams, and I did not fail taking notice of it to deaan
Afferrer, and thereupon to turn their superstitious devotions to their
owleys into ridicule. For seeing me come in a hurry, and hearing guns go
off, he asked, “What news?” “Nothing,” said I, “but a man was killed by
the order of his gods.” “How!” says the deaan, “by the order of his
gods? I do not understand you.” “Why,” says I, “a man prayed to his
owley last night, and when he lay down, bid it not fail to come when he
was asleep. The demon which attends his owley, according to his desire,
came, and told him in a dream, or, which is the same thing, he dreamed
he told him, that he must wash his lamber the next morning. He went
along with us in obedience to this divine vision, to the watering place,
though he had no other business there; and as he stooped to wash his
lamber, was killed by a random shot, which he received in his posteriors
from some of our fugitive enemies, who fired, ran away, and hurt nobody
else.” I was under no apprehensions of deaan Afferrer’s anger on this
piece of raillery, for persecution on account of difference in religion
is not thought of there.
I remember one instance, whilst I lived with deaan Mevarrow, of a piece
of bigotry more blind and senseless, if possible, than this. A young man
had an owley, the demon of which was called Ry-Leffu. He made his
addresses one night to him, and Ry-Leffu in a dream told him, that his
brother must shoot at him. Early in the morning he took above an hour’s
walk to his brother, told his dream, and desired him to perform the
order of Ry-Leffu. His brother endeavoured to dissuade him from it, but
the other insisted it must be done, or worse would ensue. “Well then,”
said he, “I will shoot near you, but take care to miss you.” “No,” said
the bigoted idiot, “it must be executed according to order, without the
least prevarication; for I am fully persuaded that the demon will defend
me from all harm.” At length he prevails on his brother, who loads his
piece, and stands about thirty yards distant, and fires at his lower
parts; but notwithstanding all his precaution he broke a leg; and then,
blaming himself for his credulity, and being so easily overruled in an
action he no ways approved of, ran with tears in his eyes to the
assistance of the wounded bigot. In short, with the usual means,
together with some of the fat of a sacrifice, laid on the owley of
Ry-Leffu, the wound was healed, but he never recovered the free use of
that leg.
We drove our cattle to the seaside, the same way we came, by the verge
of the water, and went round the bay called St. John’s. I took
particular notice of it; there is a ridge of rocks which seemed to
extend quite across it, so as to leave no entrance; but were there a
channel wide enough for ships to sail in, it would be a very commodious
harbour, the waters being smooth within. Not far from hence, as I have
heard, on the coast of Merfaughla, a French ship was cast away about two
or three years before ours, and the whole crew destroyed; but the reason
of their inhuman murder, or the particular circumstances of it, I could
never learn. They have no canoes, either here or in Anterndroea, for
which reason the natives can have no commerce with ships. For they are
very treacherous to white men of any in the island. Whether their little
acquaintance with Europeans gives them a dread of them, I cannot say;
but I am sensible they imagine that white men are extremely addicted to
fighting, and not so tender-hearted as themselves. This received notion
may be a great motive to their destroying them on very trivial
provocations; for they are always jealous that the white men have some
cruel designs upon them. So that they are ever on their guard, dreading
the audacity and superior skill which the Europeans have over them in
point of war.
As to their mercy. In such places where they have subdued them, as the
French did in Antenosa, they made them all slaves, inverted the whole
order of their government; and most of them being illiterate seamen, who
took upon them to rule, they showed no regard, either to morality,
civility, or indeed common decency; made no distinction of persons,
confounded all order, and treated every black as if he were a brute; and
so much inferior to themselves, as not to have the least right or title,
in their opinions, to the common privileges of human creatures. So that
to kill one of them was no more than killing a dog, or any other noxious
animal whatsoever. I do not make this as a general reflection on the
French only, though if credit were to be given to half that the natives
say, they were guilty of the most scandalous and execrable actions. Our
own countrymen (too much addicted to their follies and vices) are not
exempt from the just cause of this scandal upon white men; for the
conduct of our British pirates, and others too, who are not willing to
be thought inhuman, has been barbarous to the last degree. And in the
countries of Anterndroea and Merfaughla, where no stories are told but
what are very strange; and as they cannot distinguish by experience,
that wicked men are the product of every land; and having seen no good
ones here, every white man is looked upon by them as much a monster as a
cannibal is by us.
We returned to our camp with our booty four days before Rer Befaugher,
who not only got a good prize of cattle, but of captives likewise: which
they discovered by the observance of a smoke. Deaan Crindo was in pain
to be at home, lest deaan Woozington should go into his country and
plunder it; but Rer Mundrosser and deaan Mussecorro would take their
turn to see what they could find, and return with slaves as well as
cattle. We had no enemy all this time come near us; for deaan Trongha
stayed in the camp till we returned. I told deaan Afferrer I would go
and pay deaan Sambo a visit as before, on purpose to conceal my visit to
the other. He treated me with the same good manners as at first; but
whilst we were in discourse, one of deaan Afferrer’s slaves came in and
told me his master desired to speak with me. I durst not speak privately
to deaan Trongha before him, nor would I stay, as he would have had me;
but went directly with the man, being apprehensive of some ill
treatment. When I came, he was in a terrible passion, charging me with
being deceitful; and asking me, if I intended to go away with them? He
would take care, however, that I should not go out of Anterndroea. I
might go any where among his own countrymen; but he would not part with
me. I perceived he was determined to be my master, though he was a much
better than deaan Mevarrow; for he never offered to strike, much less to
kill me. It was fourteen days before Rer Mundrosser returned; he
brought, likewise, several slaves as well as cattle. As soon as the
cattle were divided, which was the next day, the army marched back into
Anterndroea; for deaan Crindo would not consent that the Feraignharians
should go home, till they had accompanied him into his own country, and
till he was out of danger. Our habitation on Yong-gorvo hills lay in the
way. Deaan Trongha, with his brother and cousin, came the night before
we parted, to take their leave of deaan Afferrer; and after some general
discourse, he said if you will part with your white man, I will give you
three slaves for him. Though this was a handsome price, yet my master,
for so I must call him, made answer, I will not take three times three
for him. So no more was said, and deaan Trongha went his way. The next
morning before they marched, I had the opportunity of seeing one of the
Feraignher men; whereupon I desired him to assure his general that I
would be with them in three or four days at farthest; for I was
determined to run away, and follow their tracks at all adventures. At
present, indeed, I was prevented; because as they were jealous of me,
two men were ordered never to let me go out of their sight, either by
night or day, till we got home. And for two months afterwards, I was
never suffered to go any where without somebody with me.
Before I take my farewell of Anterndroea, my readers may justly expect
an account of such things as I thought most worthy of observance, and
which have not hitherto been described; and which, indeed, are but few,
considering the great variety of things, which a more curious person
than myself would have employed himself in inquiring into. But when they
consider how young I was when I first came here, how I passed the prime
of my years in slavery among these savages, and the little or no hopes I
had of ever making my escape; it will not, I presume, be expected, that,
at this time, I should have known what was worth a virtuoso’s regard. I
shall not, however, supply these deficiencies of mine, as many
travellers frequently do, with inventions of my own. I could not help
knowing such things as were of daily service, and in common with other
places; such as bonanas, plantanes, monkies, turtle, and a hundred other
things of the like nature; of which it would be impertinent to give a
particular detail.
There is no good thing to be met with, either on the trees, or in the
earth, that lie within three or four miles of the sea; nothing but short
prickly wood, that bears no eatable fruit. In the country there is great
variety; among which is a currant that grows on a tree, not a bush, as
in Europe, and is very pleasant. Here is a very large tree likewise that
bears a plumb; which is black when ripe, and as big as a cherry, with
little stones like those of grapes. There are thorns too on the tree
about two inches long. Here is a fruit like a sloe, which grows also on
a prickly bush, but is very sweet. Another fruit grows on the most
stately trees, that are speckled like a sparrow’s egg, and in the same
shape, which is full of seeds, and very juicy. It is looked upon as an
infallible cure for fluxes; the leaf of it is like that of a pear-tree.
Here is a tree, the leaves and tender sprigs whereof will sting like
nettles. The root of this is of great service when water is scarce,
which it often is in many parts of this country; and as this root is
spongy, it retains abundance of juice. We beat it in a wooden mortar (as
we beat our Guinea corn) and express the liquor. They make ropes of the
bark of this tree. Here is wood in plenty fit for building; as also some
cedar and ebony, but none proper to make ship masts of. The plains are
well covered with divers kinds of grass, and of various colours; which
grow much taller than any in England. They never cut any down for hay,
for before the old is dead, there is new springing up under it; but the
old grass is commonly set on fire. Here is also some tobacco, which they
smoke in reeds; or shells, as they do the jermaughla.
When I was in deaan Murnanzack’s country, I frequently went fishing; but
they have no canoes, as I hinted before, so we only go upon the rocks
and fish with hooks and lines, and not with nets. Night is the best
time, when it is low water. Then we carry lights with us, and take the
fish out of deep little holes (as the negroes say) fast asleep. Here are
abundance of lobsters and crawfish, which never run away at sight of the
lights. We have also a sharp pike made for no other purpose than to
strike fish. Here are eels and the sword-fish, and some such other fish
as are common to countries in the same climate: but many of a species I
never saw elsewhere. Here is one fish as round as a turnip, and full of
prickles; which, I suppose, may be called the sea hedgehog, but in their
language it is called sorer-reake. Here is likewise great plenty of fine
turtle.
I never knew the country infested by any beasts of prey, such as tigers,
lions, &c., the wild foxes, wild boars, and wild dogs are the worst we
have in Anterndroea. Here is a creature of the species and form of the
serpent; which is very large. One of which I killed, by tearing its huge
jaws asunder with my hands; it was no way venomous, nor did I ever know
of a serpent which killed or hurt any man by its venom. Several of them
have been bitten by them, and no worse hurt has accrued, than is
customary from the bite of any beast.
While I was in Yong-gorvo, our employment as well as diversion was
principally hunting wild cattle; and here I observed the people call
these cattle, Hattoy’s cattle, or Anomebay Rer Hattoy. The tradition
they have of their original, is, that they belonged to a great man named
Hattoy; and he being very avaricious would kill none of them, but let
them multiply and run about wherever they would. He lived in the desert,
but his family and people, after his decease, lived with a king of an
inland dominion, called Untomaroche, and left most of their cattle
behind them. Others say, that Rer Hattoy and most of his people were
killed; and that the other cattle being better approved of, his were
neglected, and strolling about in the forests, they multiplied without
interruption. But this no way accounts for the manner in which they came
into the island. This Hattoy, as all allow, was a native; so that I am
apt to believe these were the original cattle of the country, and the
tame beeves were imported; for there are the same cattle with humps on
their backs, on the coast of Natal, and Dillagoe in Africa. These were
preferred to the others, and bred up whilst the Hattoy’s were neglected.
And what confirms me in this notion is, here are two sorts of people, as
if they were two distinct species of mankind; of which I shall have
occasion to give a full account in a more proper place.
When deaan Afferrer had kept strict watch over me for about two months,
and thought the track of the Feraingher army was impossible to be found,
as the grass was grown up again, he took me with him hunting these
Hattoy’s cattle again. We had very good diversion, had not the
conclusion proved tragical; for we killed five cows, and had thoughts of
departing: but a bull ran off with a lance in his side, and we, being
loth to lose it, pursued him, and stuck two or three more in his belly.
When his wounds smarted, he grew enraged and turned upon us. One man
more bold than the rest threw another lance, and hit him on the back.
Upon which he ran directly at the man; we hallooed to frighten him off,
but he pursued his adversary; and when he had overtaken him, he tossed
him several yards above his head. The ground where he fell was stony,
and we were afraid of throwing lances lest we should hit the man, who
was all this time endeavouring to rise; but the bull pushed him down, as
often as he made the attempt, and gored him to that degree with his
horns, that he soon died. When we perceived the man was past all
recovery, we threw more lances at the bull, till he fell down like a
log. I have known them fight so long, that they have been absolutely
dead before they fell; for they will fix their feet so wide, and die
standing so firmly, that we have been obliged to pull them down by the
tail. They were forced to dress the meat this evening, because of going
home next day with the corpse of their neighbour. When we had roasted
the beef, and made an end of our supper, we made up our enters for the
next morning. For my part, I packed up as much as I could conveniently
carry; for I was determined to go away this very night. I laid down,
indeed, when the rest did, but could not sleep much, it may be supposed,
for thinking of the hazardous journey I was about to undertake. Every
one else slept soundly enough, as they were tired, and their bellies
were full; so about midnight I took up my burden, and away I marched,
directing my course to the northward, not without recommending myself to
the good providence of God to be my conductor.
The instructions I received from Ry-Nanno, and which on inquiry I found
from others, was to go to the southward, till I came to Vohitch Futey;
and to leave it on my right hand, directing my course between the north
and west, till I got to the great river Oneghaloyhe, which goes to St.
Augustine’s bay; then to keep along the river till I saw highland
running along the westernmost parts of the forest: and then when I had
passed over the river, to go away to the westward.
I walked very briskly all night, and at break of day I saw the white
mountains very near. By this I perceived I had made a great progress,
and therefore would not conceal myself as at first I proposed; but
proceeded on my journey, looking sharply about me, thinking it morally
impossible for them to overtake and find me, should they have attempted
it. I went, therefore, merrily on, singing Madagascar songs; for I had
forgotten all my English ones. The bellowing of the wild cattle would
now and then make me start; imagining they were my pursuers. When I came
to a pleasant brook, I baited there; and at sunset I looked out for a
covert in a thicket to lie in; but I could not find one near at hand. So
I was contented to repose myself in the open plain, pulling up a
sufficient quantity of grass for a bed and a pillow, and making a small
fire to warm my beef. I did not think proper to make a great one, for
fear of its being discerned at a distance; for in the afternoon I
observed some fires to the eastward of the mountain. I was disturbed in
my sleep by night-walkers, whom I imagined were my pursuers; and
accordingly I took up my lances in order to defend myself; but when I
was thoroughly awake, I found they were only some of Hattoy’s cattle,
that snorted at the smell of my fire, and ran away, much more afraid of
me than I was of them.
The second day in the morning, I stayed till the sun appeared before I
moved forward, that I might not be deceived in my course; for being
abreast of Vohitch Futey, I walked more easily; and though I was under
no apprehensions of being overtaken by deaan Afferrer’s people, yet as
there might be others in the forest a hunting of beeves, I was very
circumspect. Nothing remarkable happened this day. I looked out early
this evening for a lodging, the clouds gathering very black, and soon
found a large thick tree, where I made me a fire, warmed me some meat,
and hung up the remainder, to keep it as dry as I could; for I had
nothing else that could be prejudiced by the rain. At length, it poured
down as I expected, in a violent manner, attended with thunder and
lightning; it soon penetrated my roof: however, I crowded myself up
together, with my head on my knees, my hands betwixt my legs, and my
little lamber over my ears. The rain ran down like a flood, but as it
was warm I did not so much regard it; in three or four hours it was fair
weather again, and I laid me down and took a comfortable nap.
The next morning I dried my beef at a fire, which I made for that
purpose, for it was the third day after it was killed; but I was very
careful of it, not knowing how to kill more at that time: so I put it up
in clean grass and marched forward. The mountains over which I was to
pass seemed very high, craggy, and thick with wood, and no path or
opening could I find. It looked dismal enough, but I was determined to
run all hazards. Those mountains seemed to me to traverse the island,
and appeared, as we call it at sea, like double land; one hill behind
another. I saw nothing all this day but a few wild cattle, and now and
then a wild dog; the weather was fair, and I slept soundly all this
night.
The fourth day I walked till noon, at which time I baited; my beef was
now but very indifferent. In the afternoon as I was walking I saw about
a dozen men before me; upon this I skulked in a bush, peeping to observe
whether they had discovered me; but I was soon out of my pain, for they
were surrounding some cattle a good way to the westward on a hill. I was
likewise on another hill, so that I could see them throw their lances
and kill three beeves, which I was well assured were more than they
could carry away with them at once. I stayed where I was, proposing when
they were gone to have some beef. To work they fell immediately, cutting
up the beasts, and each man making up his burden, hanging the remainder
up in a tree that the wild dogs might not get it, and went home to the
eastward. As soon as they were gone, and I had looked well about me, I
threw away my bad meat, made up to the tree, and took as much as I could
well carry. Away I marched with my booty towards the mountains, not
daring to rest lest they should return and discover me. In less than an
hour I reached the foot of the hills in the thick woods, and finding no
path or track of men, or any hopes of any, not knowing what to do, I
determined to go through all; but as I happened on a run of water, I
took up my quarters near it, made me a fire, cut me some wooden spits,
and roasted my beef; I kept my fire burning all night lest the foxes
should come and attack me.
The next morning I made up my enter with grass, binding it with the bark
of trees, and moved forward up the hill. My burden was now much lighter.
In an hour, though I could find no path but what some swine had made, I
got to the top of it. I perceived here were faungidge and verlaway
enough, with which I was very well pleased, though I did not at present
much want them. I climbed a high tree to take a survey, but could
discover no entrance: nothing but hills and vales one beyond another; a
cragged dismal desert was all that presented itself to my view. I would
have descended had I not been in danger of being seen by the hunters;
besides I could not tell which way to look, whether east or west, for
the passage; so setting a lance up on end, I turned the way it fell,
though I imagined it was due north, or rather somewhat to the eastward.
However, superstition prevailed where reason was no way concerned, for I
was as likely to be right one way as another; and in case I went to the
northward, so long as I knew it, I must go as often as I could to the
westward; as sailors are forced to do, run their latitude first and
their longitude afterwards. I went down this hill and up another, which
was about an hour’s walk; but when I came to descend this, it was right
up and down. Without due thought I threw down my lances, hatchet, and
burden, thinking to descend by a very tall tree, whose top branches
reached close to the brow, but I could not do it. However, I made ropes
of the bark of a tree, and fixing them to the strongest branches, I slid
down, I dare say, no less than thirty feet rather than I would lose my
lances and other materials. I passed over a fine spring and run of water
in the vale. Though the hill on the other side was a craggy steep rock,
I found a way to ascend it; and on the top climbed another tree to take
my view, but had the same dismal prospect. Here I dug faungidge, it
being sunset, and seeing a hole in a large rock I had thought to take up
my lodging there; but peeping in, on a sudden I heard such an outcry,
which, with the echo in the rock, made so confused a noise, that I knew
not what it could be. My fears prevailed, and I imagined it might be
pursuers, for it drew nearer and nearer; so setting my back to a tree,
with a lance in each hand, I waited for the murderers; when instantly
came squeaking toward me a herd of wild swine, who ran away more
terrified than myself. After I was well recovered from my fright, I made
two fires for fear of the foxes, and then laid me down on my stony bed,
for here was no grass.
The next morning, which was the sixth day, I made a hearty meal on
faungidge and beef, and the hill extending north and south, I went
straight on till it declined gradually into a valley, in which was a
small river that ran westward; I am apt to think it was the head of
Manner-ronder, where we fought deaan Woozington. By the time I arrived
at the top of the next hill, it drew towards evening, for I was not much
less than two hours ascending it; and yet, considering my burden, though
it was not very heavy now, I went a very good pace. As I was looking out
for a commodious lodging, that is to say, a place with the fairest
stones in it, I uncovered a swarm of bees; this was a joyful sight, for
it was food that would not spoil with keeping. I soon cut down a
vounturk to secure the honey in, and smoked them out.