CHAPTER XII.

The individual thus addressed hastened towards me, but it was plainly to

be seen by his countenance that this meeting was the reverse of

pleasant. Hastily rallying himself, he began to explain in a rapid tone

that he had not replied to my telegram because he had hoped to reach

Comayagua before I left it. He thought I would wait till I heard from

him, and so forth.

I replied that I assumed he had left for Europe, and reminded him that

in his last letter to me he had mentioned that this was probable, and

that in consequence his agent would be left with full power to act in

his stead.

“Oh yes, yes,” replied Dr Pope; “but my departure for Europe is delayed.

I have a great deal of law business to attend to—indeed I am going to

Comayagua at this moment on a most important lawsuit, and cannot be back

for a fortnight; in the meantime I have arranged with a lady at San

Pedro Sula to receive you till I return.”

“The delay is unfortunate,” I answered; “but as I am nearly knocked up

by much travelling and hardship, I shall be glad of a few days’

idleness. Will you be good enough to give me the address of the house

that I am to go to?”

The gentleman, turning round, addressed himself to the muleteer,

speaking in remarkably good Castilian; then, continuing his conversation

with me, he added—

“I am afraid you will find everything very rough, as I have not had time

to order a mattress for your bed; but you have in your journey been

accustomed to sleep on bare boards,” he added, in a jaunty tone, “and so

you will not mind.”

“I beg your pardon, sir,” I replied; “I have been provided with my own

hammock; and I take leave to say, that at the end of so long a journey,

decent accommodation should be provided for me.”

I spoke slowly, looking at him steadily; for by his later tone I felt

that he could be very impertinent both with and without provocation.

“Doña Engracia will do all she can to make you comfortable, I am sure,”

he said apologetically; “but you must not expect English customs here.”

To this I made no reply, but inquired how soon it would be before he

returned to San Pedro Sula?

“It depends upon business,” he replied. “I have also to attend a Synod

to which the Bishop has summoned me; but I daresay I can get excused

from being present at the meeting.”

“Very strange, the Bishop did not mention this when I saw him at

Comayagua,” I answered.

“Have you seen the Bishop? Did you tell him you were coming here,” he

asked quickly, his face lighting up with a mingled expression of

suspicion and interest.

“I paid my respects to his lordship, and I told him I was coming here.

To my surprise the Bishop hardly spoke of you, and certainly he was

quite ignorant of your having arranged to bring me here,” I replied.

“Well, this is not the place wherein we can carry on a conversation on

the matter. I regret,” continued he, “that I cannot turn back with you

now. Kindly go to the house of Doña Engracia, and I will write you an

explanatory letter from Comayagua, and send it by special messenger.

Your neighbour will be Don Pedro Sturm, a Norwegian doctor, who has

lived many years in San Pedro Sula; he will gladly be of service to

you.”

The Justice of the Peace, who had waited patiently during this

conversation, now came up and made some polite observations, and then we

took leave and went on our several ways. But still the thought ran

through my mind,—What could induce him to invite me to San Pedro Sula?

[Illustration: POSADA NEAR SAN PEDRO SULA.]

Leaving the plantations, we splashed through a broad stream, and, after

riding over the ruins of a part of the late Honduras railway, we at dusk

entered into San Pedro Sula.

The environs of this town are far from unpleasing, and several

respectable houses, erected mostly by German merchants, lent an air of

stability to the town which could not fail to impress a stranger

favourably. It was some little time before we found the house to which

we had been directed; and when we did so, it seemed to me that the name

of Doña Engracia did not command much respect. We made our way to a

mean-looking dwelling, and at our summons a most unprepossessing woman

made her appearance at the door.

“Are you Doña Engracia?” inquired Eduardo, looking aghast.

“Yes,” replied the woman, who was bare-necked and bareheaded, and had

her chin bound up with a dirty rag; “and I suppose this is the lady I am

to expect?”

“You are right,” I answered. “Have you prepared any accommodation for

me?”

“Enter, and see,” was the reply.

I dismounted, and was ushered through an outer room furnished with

shelves. Upon these were laid a few vegetables and some plantains.

Opening another door with a flourish, an inner room was revealed, which

contained two beds, one of which was furnished with bedding of some

sort, whilst the other was perfectly bare, with the exception of a large

bull’s hide, which was laid over the bars of the bedstead as an

under-covering. Not a vestige of matting, or of any other furniture, did

this apartment contain. It was miserable in the extreme.

“Is this the room assigned to me?” I asked at length, my heart really

sinking into my boots.

“Si, Señora, si, y conmigo” (Yes, lady, yes, and with me). The _conmigo_

was drawled out with a flourish.

“This will not do for me,” I answered. “I _will_ have a room to myself,

and shall go straight to the best inn; where is it?” And I turned to go

out.

The muleteer, Andreas, who had been standing on the outer step, now

spoke, and with some indignation in his tone. “This is no place for you,

Señora; you had better come to Chicaramos. I know Chicaramos; you will

be much better off there.”

Eduardo was with the animals, and in high converse with a nice

intelligent-looking lad, dressed in neat white raiment, wearing a Panama

hat and a gay _pugaree_. “I am Don Pedro Sturm’s servant—the doctor next

door. He has sent me to show you the inn,” the lad explained. “Permit me

to accompany you to the Posada Chicaramos.”

I thanked the lad gratefully, and we were soon on the march again. “What

an extraordinary name!” I said to the lad. “Is Chicaramos a village or a

suburb?”

“No, Señora,” he replied; “Chicaramos is a woman.”

“A woman!”

“Yes, Señora. Her real name is Francisca Ramos; the contraction of

Francisca is Chica, and so the name has all got run into one. She is

called Chicaramos all over the country. She is a wonderful woman.”

I was too exhausted to inquire in what might consist the wonders of

Chicaramos, but contented myself by inwardly hoping that she might turn

out to be an entirely different person from the one we had just left;

and thus hoping, we rode up to the portal of the Posada Francisca Ramos,

which was its polite designation.

The house was built in a square, the later and new addition being a

_salon_ and a billiard-room, which the owner had erected out of the

money made by boarding and lodging the engineers and others concerned in

building the Honduras railway. On this night this _salon_ showed to the

greatest advantage, as a ball was about to be held therein, and the long

room was gay with light and flowers and brightly painted cane seats. It

was for this reason that we were kept waiting a little at the

half-opened door, although voices and exclamations were heard in all

directions, and in all keys of the gamut.

Our guide proposed that we should go round to the other side, and enter

the court-yard through the great gates, where we would most probably

find some one to attend to us. This being done, a _mozo_ flew towards

us, declaring that the hotel was full on account of the ball. The Señora

could have refreshment, but not a room—all were engaged, &c., &c.

Never heeding this, we rode into the centre of the court-yard and

dismounted. A handsome untidy-looking woman, dressed in a bright blue

muslin dress, came up and looked at me, then turned away, and went into

the house through a door on the right-hand side of the square.

“That is Chicaramos’s daughter-in-law,” said our new friend; “the wife

of the _hijo mayor_ (eldest son). They live on this side of the square,

and their front door opens into the business street. She has gone to

look for her husband.”

Almost as he spoke a plain genteel-looking young man came out and

advanced towards me. “My mother is busy,” he said, “preparing for a

ball, which is to take place here in an hour. The house is full, but if

you will accept a bedroom in our part of it, it can be made ready at

once. You will have to pass through our room, but you will not mind

that.”

This was the best thing I could do; and accommodation being found for

the muleteer and Eduardo, our guide took his leave, saying that his

master, Don Pedro Sturm, would call on me on the morrow.

After a slight supper, which I took at a round table, with the son’s

wife staring at me from the opposite side, I was making ready to go to

rest, when the door opened, and a lady, in a yellow silk dress, black

lace trimming, and rich gold ornaments, entered. As she closed one door,

the son’s wife rose quickly, and rushed out at the other.

It seemed probable that these two women were not _d’accord_.

Chicaramos—for it was she—came forward in a graceful manner, and

apologised for the negligent way in which I had been received, but

expressed a hope that “_mi hijo mayor_” (my eldest son) had represented

her properly.

She was a handsome woman; and from the manner in which she looked about,

I saw that she managed well the affairs of her household. She then added

that I might be kept awake by the music and the rattle of the

billiard-balls, but to-morrow, being Sunday, would be a quiet day.

I was conducted to a room on the ground-floor, which was paved with red

tiles, and was as mean as possible in its surroundings. However, it did

contain some crockery ware, and this fact of itself announced Chicaramos

to be a well-to-do woman. Two window apertures, filled by massive

shutters, which served to keep the room dark and cool, rejoiced my

sight, as the window-frames were so wide that plenty of air could always

enter, and mosquitoes, _ad libitum_, at night.

A voluble young Creole woman had been sent to help me, and she was loud

in her expressions of surprise that a gentlewoman should have come to

San Pedro Sula to superintend the school.

“But the doctor is quite done up now,” added this damsel; “and you have

had a long journey for nothing.”

“Why did he bring me, I wonder?” was the answer I made.

She could not say.

“Where does the agent, Mr Brady, live?” I inquired. “I wish to see him

the first thing in the morning.”

“He lives very near this,” was the reply; “and I will go to him

to-morrow morning.”

“Thank you. Good night.”

In spite of the drawbacks to repose enumerated by Chicaramos, I did

sleep, and that long and well; and it was late (for Honduras)—almost

seven in the morning—when Eduardo knocked, and announced that Andreas

must return at once to Potrerillos, and that he only waited to be paid.

This business was transacted through the window; and then I told Eduardo

that I would pay him during the day, and that he must look at once for

other employment, for I could not afford to keep a servant longer.

“I have thought over this, Señora,” answered the lad; “and as the

billiard-marker is going to leave in a day or two, I shall apply for the

place. You see, by this I can be near you, and do many little things for

you till you leave for Puerto Cortez and for England. This is not a

place for you, Señora.”

“But I have not money enough with me to get out of it,” I answered;

“and, Eduardo, though I like to have you near me, I would rather you

were not a billiard-marker: it is not good for you. Cannot you get some

other occupation?”

“Not at present. I have made inquiries, and I am told, Señora, that

Chicaramos’s service is the best in the place.”

Everything about the premises was very quiet, the day being Sunday, and

the inmates being tired also with the dance of the preceding evening.

Some large patient oxen were looking out of their open stall at the

lower end of the court; and some cocks and hens chased one another in

various directions; whilst a number of pigeons flew to and fro, and

settled on the roofs of the various out-houses which surrounded this

enclosure. A large pepper-tree overshadowed the lower buildings, and an

impudent _lora_ (small parrot) walked about and kept the whole in order.

Altogether it was a pretty court for an inn.

The next sign of life was a rattling sound, and the voice of woman,

neither soft nor low, calling upon the household, and _hijo mayor_

especially, to arise. Soon the voice travelled in my direction, and my

hostess looked through the aperture at me, pushing the shutter back on

its hinges as she bade me “Good morning.”

“I am glad to see you, Señora,” I said. “I want to arrange to stay here

a short time till my business is concluded. What am I to pay you for

board and lodging?—by the day, we had better say, as my affairs are

uncertain.”

Señora Ramos reflected a moment, and then said: “My charges are 5s. a

day; but if you remain by the week they will be a _peso_ (4s. 2d.) per

day. I hope you will stay, as I hear the charge of the public school is

to be offered to you.”

“I have not heard of this, Señora.”

“I daresay not, but the matter was discussed among a few last night

after the dance was over. Don Pedro Sturm, the head doctor here, is one

of the municipal council, and he will call upon you to-morrow. They all

talk before me,” continued Chicaramos, elevating her head, “as I am one

of the principal people in the place.”

I bowed at this, and told her that I did not feel justified in doing

anything till I had come to an arrangement with Dr Pope.

“Oh, as to Pope,” continued the Señora with the greatest contempt, “he

can’t do anything here. Ah, the money he owes me! And when I sent in my

bill he threatened me with the law-courts. Ho, Vicente!” holloaed the

Señora to a fat _mozo_ who was slinking along the other side of the

yard, “you have been too long in your bed. Chop up some wood, and tell

Elenita to bring the Señora here a glass of milk.”

Then she darted into my side of the house, and I heard her rattling up

_mi hijo mayor_ and his wife without the smallest ceremony, at the door

of the room next to me.

A glass of milk was brought by the trim little girl called Elenita; and

she told me that her grandmother bade her say that I had better dine in

my own room always, as Señora Ramos never allowed meals to be taken in

the _salon_ under any circumstances. And she thought the English lady

would not like to dine in the public room, over which her

daughter-in-law presided.

I thought it well to close with this arrangement, and had subsequently

reason to congratulate myself that I had done so.

Mr Brady called the next morning, and it was very much to his own

surprise that I informed him that he was Dr Pope’s agent. He was a

good-natured-looking young man, with some means, I was informed; and it

was between him and Dr Pedro Sturm that Dr Pope was now living.

An entry in my journal of August 2, 1881, runs as follows: “Don Pedro

Sturm called, and we had a discussion about my taking the public school.

Nothing, however, can be arranged about this until the Governor of Santa

Barbara comes here, which may be in a month, or in two months, or next

year. Everything seems to be a matter of _mañana_,—and salary, a very

unknown quantity.”

Don Jésus Gonsalez also came to see me on the same subject. This

gentleman seems to have influence with the governor, and expressed his

intention of writing to that dignitary, and urging the matter. By the

way, I got set down by Chicaramos for taking exception at the name of

Jésus for an ordinary appellation (although it is pronounced “Hesooz”).

“I thought you were superior to cant, Señora,” flared up my hostess.

“You northern people have your Christian; and pray, what is the name of

Christina but little Christ? _Caramba!_”

I confessed that I had not sufficiently studied the meaning of Christian

names, but stuck to it that Christian seemed less familiar than the

other sound.

For some mornings I had observed several little children in the

court-yard, and I inquired if these belonged to the house?

“Not exactly,” Elenita answered; “but we take care of one or two. That

little Félipe is a poor orphan, and grandmother has adopted him; that

other is not a child of _matrimonio_, but the _pobrecita_ (poor thing)

cannot help that, and we promised the mother when she was dying to take

care of her. Of course,” continued the girl, “the father cannot come

here, for the mother was our friend.”

Ah! respectable, moral England, is it not too often the case with you,

that the betrayed girl and her child are spurned to the dust, whilst the

man goes free, and society opens her doors wide unto him, and even

caresses him for the wrong he has done? I have often admired the

kindness of the Hondureians to deserted children; most houses have one

or two in charge, and the charity is given without ostentation and as a

matter of course. These outcasts are received really as members of the

family, and I have never heard of their entrance causing vexation or

annoyance to any of the other members of it.

Dr Otto, the latest imported medical practitioner in San Pedro Sula,

also called upon me. He was a young man of strong opinions, and never

evinced the slightest qualm in calling a spade a spade. He was a German,

and spoke English remarkably well. Being of very “advanced” opinions, he

seemed to have but one object, and that was to make money as fast as

possible. Chicaramos was a patient of his; but she was a match for him,

as, his fees being high, she raised the rent of his house accordingly,

the doctor being her tenant. The humour with which the lady confided

this piece of diplomacy to me was enough to make a cat laugh.

With such a character, my correspondent, of course, could not be let

off; indeed the young gentleman said so much, that I at last asked him

if he were not afraid to venture such and such observations. “Not a

bit,” was the reply; “and now, can you bear to hear an unpleasant

truth?”

“Really, sir, I have had to bear so much lately that I think I can stand

anything.”

“Very well. Now, you wonder why Pope brought you here; I will tell you.

He is played out; he thought if you came that he would get a footing in

the schoolhouse which would have been assigned for your use. This would

give him a home; for the rest, he hoped you would bring a little money

wherewith to set a plantation going; in fact you told him so in one of

your letters.”

“How do you know this?” I asked aghast.

“It is simply told. A young lad, whom I know something about, was

sitting with the fellow when the runner brought your letter. Pope was in

an indiscreet mood, so he read a portion of the letter out, remarking,

‘The lady has a little money, so I shall invite her to come.’”

This was, as I found, the true explanation; and as Dr Pope had no house

of his own, the Government refusing to assign him one after the first

year, the idea of taking up his abode in the schoolhouse must have been

a most convenient scheme. All was frustrated by the people rising _en

masse_ against him and demanding his expulsion.

That a colony was never more recklessly ruined, let all the officials,

English, Spanish, and Hondureian, tell.

Don Jésus brought his wife to visit me, and a very sweet young woman I

found her to be. She often sent preserved fruits and chocolate, and good

Don Pedro Sturm sent in some light wine. These gifts were most

acceptable, as Chicaramos’s table was of the most coarse and meagre

description, and the cooking was filthy. Many a day an egg and a cup of

coffee were my only meal. My living could not have cost her more than

fourpence a day on the average; but it was in these ways that Chicaramos

proved herself a wonderful woman. As Dr Otto often remarked, a mat, some

raw plantains, and a stream of running water in the midst of the

village, were all that was necessary to keep the inhabitants of San

Pedro Sula alive. What could other people want with more?

The _alcalde_ often came to see me in the evenings, and to him I owe

some of the pleasantest hours I spent in San Pedro Sula. He was a

Scotchman by birth, but had become quite a naturalised Spaniard,

speaking the language well. He it was who was keeping the key of the

church, and this he handed over to the new priest one sunny morning,

singing a pæan over the fact that this act completely ousted the late

incumbent. “And now, my dear lady,” said he, “a ball is to be given in a

night or two to celebrate the fourth anniversary of the Government of

Honduras, and I am charged by the municipal committee with this letter

of invitation to you.”

So saying, Don Juan pulled out an elegantly written note of invitation,

addressed to me as Señora Maria, the English stranger.

At first I felt inclined to refuse, but, on reflection, I saw that it

would be ungracious to do so. The hand of friendship had been so

cordially held out that it was with lighter heart that I selected

evening raiment to wear—the first time for many weeks—wherein to appear

at the ball, given, as usual, at Chicaramos’s _salon_.

Whilst I was dressing, I thought I heard voices in dispute in the part

of the house occupied by _hijo mayor_; a door was banged with more than

ordinary force after a scuffle from within; then all was silent. It was

some one, perhaps, who had forced himself in to see the preparations.

Thus I dismissed the subject from my mind. I should hardly have noticed

this, but I fancied I had previously heard footsteps approaching my

apartment.

My toilet finished, I went into the _salon_, which was really very

tastefully decorated and lighted. As nobody had come in, I drew a

rocking-chair to the large entrance door, and sat watching the

fire-flies as they powdered the grass opposite with their golden sparks.

Brilliant lightning flashed in the far distance, which contrasted in

fantastic guise with the gloom of an unusually still night, there being

neither tingle of guitar nor rattle of billiard-balls, and few people

were moving about.

Presently my attention was attracted to a white object moving in a

straight line towards the house. What it was it was impossible to

discover: perhaps a visitor arriving in fancy dress! The figure crossed

the grass and stood before me. It was the Rev. Dr Pope, hatless, wearing

a man’s night-shirt over his clothes, and _bola_ (Spanish for

intoxicated).

Surprise held me to my seat, and prudence chained my tongue. He glared

at me, and opened his lips as if to speak; then he looked over my head

into the _salon_, as if he were searching for some one, gave a lurch,

turned on his heel, and was gone!

I rose, shut the door, and went through the _salon_ into the _patio_.

Eduardo was at a table washing some glasses; he anticipated my inquiry,

for he said—

“Not now, Señora—I will come to you—the company has arrived.”

The door which I had shut in such haste was thrown open, and the company

walked in by twos and threes, and then seated themselves round the room,

the principal ladies occupying the rocking-chairs. Soon followed the

music; the musicians—three in number—playing some selected piece, now

entered, and they were listened to with marked silence to the end.

I could not help contrasting this politeness with the rude inattention

which I have seen displayed in circles of far higher pretension during

the execution of instrumental music by some amateur, or even

professional performer. In both cases the music seems to be regarded

solely as an aid to conversation, and the performer receives the tribute

of silence only when the instrument ceases to vibrate.

The young men moved among the ladies with well-bred ease, and when the

_Lanza_ was called every one stood up. The _Lanza_, I was told, is an

old national dance, and it always stands first on the programme. The

gentlemen select their partners, and those who do not join reseat

themselves. In the old times referred to, the cavaliers carried short

lances, and crossing these in some turns of the dance, the ladies passed

beneath them.

The air of the dance is of itself very monotonous, the art of playing it

consisting in strict emphasis on some few notes. The figure is not

unlike the last—the fifth—in the set of our “Lancer Quadrilles.” There

is a good deal of advancing and retiring in ring, and an in-and-out

chain, in the mazes of which each one purposely loses his partner. A

movement, which I do not pretend to describe, brings her back again, and

the whole is wound up with the graceful waltz.

Yes; as it is danced by this people, it is graceful and even dignified.

Strict attention is given to the execution of the step, and the time is

often marked on the part of the gentleman by a sharp quick stamp on the

floor. The figures of both waltzers undulate with the motion of the

feet; indeed, the seriousness with which all is gone through, indicates

that—in the mysteries of the dance at least—the Hondureians agree that

what is worth doing at all is worth doing well.

The gentlemen dance quite as persistently as the ladies, and their

manner in soliciting a partner is highly respectful always.

Between the dances, at intervals, refreshments were handed about; and

these were upon a most limited scale, the whole consisting, generally,

of a small glass of liqueur, a larger one of water, and a few little

fancy cakes. Outside, at the table in the _patio_, some of the gentlemen

could be descried indulging liberally in bottled beer and other liquids.

This expenditure, and the hire of the _salon_, was Chicaramos’s harvest.

Such a thing as a ball-supper had never been heard of in the whole of

the Honduras.

Cigars and cigarillos really seemed to be the bread of life here, to

judge by the numbers which were smoked by both sexes in that

entertainment. During the interval allowed to the musicians they smoked

too, and long before the ball was over the floor had become quite

disgusting from the expectoration; and the smell of tobacco which

pervaded the _salon_ from end to end was enough to poison a whole

province.

I remained no longer, and withdrew unperceived to my den. The lightning

was playing in the distance, but it was of the harmless summer kind, and

so I watched it between my half-opened shutters without fear, indeed

with somewhat of interest. The contrast between the solemn night, with

its flashing zigzag lightning, which resembled an array of scimitars,

withheld only by the Great Captain’s hand from leaping down and

scattering destruction on the earth, and the dance and glare, and paltry

talk close by, was sufficiently striking. A few moments later, and

Eduardo stood beneath the window.

“That drunken man was the doctor,” said I, in a tone which might be

taken either as assertative or interrogative.

“Yes, Señora; he came into the other house. _Hijo mayor_ did his best to

persuade him to retire; but it was of no use. I came in behind him, and

not knowing who it was, I took him by the shoulders and put him into the

street.”

“He must have come round afterwards to the front door, where I was

sitting,” I said.

“That was it, Señora; I hear that he is afraid to see you, and keeps out

of the way. He must have returned to enter the house, but he did not

expect to meet with you.”

“How do you know, Eduardo?”

“Chicaramos hears plenty of remarks from the people who come into the

store, Señora; and so much news gets into the billiard-room.”

“Well, when you have a spare moment, will you go to Dr Otto, and ask him

to call upon me as soon as it may be convenient, to-morrow? Be sure and

ask Señora Ramos’s leave before you go.”

“Certainly, Señora; good night.”

The lad went his way, and I remained at the open shutter watching the

lightning and thinking. This, then, was no scandal, as to the man’s

personal habits: under any circumstances, it would be neither safe nor

proper to hold any appointment under such a person; and it was evident

that very little could be done with the Justice of the Peace, or the

Governor of Santa Barbara either. The latter, I knew, had promised to

come to San Pedro Sula to inspect matters generally, and to establish a

public school, eight times in so many months, and had failed to put in

an appearance up to the present time. The _alcalde_ was very much my

friend; but it had been hinted to me, more than once, that this

functionary was only anxious to keep me in the place because I was an

Englishwoman, with whom he, being partly a Scotchman, found it pleasant

to converse. Be this as it may, one thing was certain, Don Juan Jack,

with all his goodwill, could not command either the Governor of Santa

Barbara or the public funds of San Pedro Sula.

My best plan, therefore, was to leave as soon as possible; for though

Chicaramos behaved well in the main, yet her _ménage_ was so wretched

that semi-starvation was what I was paying for at the rate of four

shillings a day. I was determined to consult Dr Otto, and then act as he

should advise.

The doctor came early in the morning. Nothing could of course be said

until the gentleman had gone through his usual objurgatory language

against the Spaniards, the natives, the Governor, Don Juan Jack, and the

inhabitants generally and severally;—one was a rascal; the Justice of

the Peace was a dawdle; the Governor never kept his word; and Don Pedro

Sturm was a fool. Chicaramos had the brains of the whole lot.

“Now, Dr Otto, if any one else had declaimed against any one of these

persons in the way you have done, you would be the very first to defend

him. I do not like to hear a word against Don Pedro Sturm. He has been

kind to me.”

“Well, all right; he is kind, certainly.”

“I want your wisdom now to bear upon my affairs. I am certain it will

not do to stay here; both time and money are being wasted, and I hear

nothing can be done about the public school till the Governor of Santa

Barbara arrives.”

“Don’t you rely on his coming; and the chances are if he does come—and I

don’t believe he will, for he is like all the rest of these dawdling,

offputting, gandering idiots——”

“Now, doctor, no abuse. I want to know if you think I had better write

at once to Mr De Brot, the consul at Puerto Cortez, and ask him to

arrange the necessary business for getting money from England to take me

away. The truth is, I feel weaker, and I think I have a little fever on

me now, and I dread being ill here.”

“If you get ill you can’t go; write to Mr Albany Fonblanque, the consul

at New Orleans: that will be quicker. Mr De Brot is at his country place

just now, on one of the islands, so there would be delay if you consult

him. Fonblanque is a thorough man of business, and if you write and

state the case plainly, he will give you the best attention. The

Wanderer will sail from Puerto Cortez in three days, and your letter

will be in time—that is to say, if that infernal ‘Maquina’ does not

break down, or they forget the mail-bag, or devise some blunder which

could only occur in these regions. Now, mind you write a short

intelligible letter to Fonblanque, and to the point.”

“Trust me. I think I will ask Mr Fonblanque to send it on to my lawyer

in London,” I replied.

“Yes, that is a sensible idea. Now, never mind more business, but look

here, Mopsey has come to see you.”

As he spoke, the doctor lugged out of his capacious pocket a huge silk

pocket-handkerchief, which was tied at the four corners in a loose knot.

He opened this, and forth came Mopsey, the little pet parrot.

“You don’t mean to say that you carry the bird about in this fashion?” I

asked.

“Why, yes; you see he mopes when I go out, and is utterly miserable, and

so I shall carry him when I go my rounds. They are so gentle and lovable

are these _loras_.”

Certainly Mopsey was a true specimen of what Dr Otto said of the race.

It was curious to see the little bird climbing up his shoulder and

sitting on his head, and testifying her delight in many caressing ways;

the doctor’s fiery, excited-looking face being at the same time smoothed

into a somewhat benevolent mould, as he rendered up his finger as a

perch for his pet and addressed her as “Du.”

We chatted a little while, and I could not help wishing that this

gentleman, so brilliant and agreeable, could bestow a little of the

goodwill which he testified towards the animal creation upon the human

portion of it also. Some bitter wrong, or maybe, a long course of being

misunderstood, (and what more hardening to the spirit than this?) must

have turned a naturally good disposition into gall; and it was only by

an occasional flash of sympathy, expressed as if he were ashamed of it,

that I discovered that Dr Otto possessed a vein of human feeling.

One thing I had resolved upon, and that was, that some final

understanding must be come to with Dr Pope, and that if I had an

interview with him, it should take place in the presence of witnesses. I

therefore wrote to Dr Sturm, in whose house he was staying, and also to

the lawyer of San Pedro Sula, stating my intention of applying for my

travelling expenses, and asking for a legal opinion upon the matter.

These two gentlemen called upon me on the following day, and informed me

that at first Dr Pope expressed himself willing to see me in their

presence, but afterwards shirked doing so, and had requested them to

apply to me for a copy of his letter in which he had so specially

engaged me to come to San Pedro Sula.

I felt inclined to refer his reverence to his own copy of the letter

written to me; but as it was important to see what he meant to do, I

consented, and sent him a copy of his letters, adding that I retained

duplicates of all my correspondence with him.

This last piece of information, I was told, considerably surprised him,

and the next day I received a note from the lawyer, saying that Dr Pope

did not look upon that letter as an agreement; but he proposed, if I

would consent, that the matter should be referred to Mr De Brot, the

consul at Puerto Cortez, for arbitration. I was strongly advised to

accept these terms, the lawyer adding that Mr De Brot was an upright and

most conscientious man.

“You have had quite expense enough,” said this gentleman when I saw him

the next day, “and I do not wish to hamper you with law. The proposal

came from Pope himself; it is no suggestion of mine, or of Don Pedro

Sturm. I may add that if you see fit to accept this proposition, Dr Pope

will undertake to pay your expenses to Puerto Cortez; you can then see

the consul personally.”

The dismay of this generous gentleman was indeed only overpowered by his

disgust, when, on the following morning, he found that Dr Pope had

stolen off on his mule during the night to Puerto Cortez, forgetting to

leave the funds for my journey behind him.

This, however, was of little consequence, as I could despatch my letters

to the consul by the train, and I would prefer going to the port when I

could be sure that I was leaving the country. So I wrote my letters and

waited patiently.

Little remains to be recorded of this weary stay at San Pedro Sula, and

my journal at this period runs only that one day telleth another and one

night certifieth another. A touch of fever; no news from the Governor of

Santa Barbara about the school; a letter of promises and no results from

one Government official or another; a pleasant chat with the

_alcalde_,—and this was about the sum of my life for upwards of a month.

At length came a letter from Mr Fonblanque announcing that money had

been placed in his hands, and that he would send a sum by the Wanderer

steamer, which would sail in a few days from New Orleans to Puerto

Cortez. Telegraph and steam and business-like lawyers in London had

greatly facilitated matters, and I was free to depart at once.

As the Wanderer steamer only remained at Puerto Cortez twenty-four

hours, and I was anxious to get away quickly, I found I must start

without delay.

Dr Otto, who had gone down to the port on business, sent me a telegram,

desiring me to start without an hour’s delay, in order to catch the

steamer for New Orleans.

As the train for Puerto Cortez did not run for two days, I was obliged

to ride; and thus, from force of circumstances, I have traversed the

province of Spanish Honduras from Amapala to Puerto Cortez on mule-back.

Don Pedro Sturm got mules and a confidential man for me, and bidding

adieu to Chicaramos, I set off for Puerto Cortez.

Although the distance was under forty miles, the road was so abominably

bad, and the detentions in consequence were so great, that it was

literally impossible to reach the port before the Wanderer sailed.

It was at the ranche of General Z——, where I had halted for refreshment,

that I was told this: “You cannot ride out at night,” said the general.

“Man as I am, I would not attempt to do so. The road is dangerous in

daylight. I cannot allow you to pass my door; so pray, Señora, dismount

and stay here till to-morrow. You can take time, and it will only be a

detention of fourteen days before the Wanderer returns.”

Accustomed as I had been to delay and disappointment, this was a bitter

trial, and I could not refrain a burst of tears. Everything seemed to go

against me. The general turned away to call his niece; her pleasant face

acted like a cordial, and after a few moments I was able to say that I

would take the advice so generously proffered.

“You surely must have been late in setting off,” said General Z——;

“under the best of circumstances you could only have reached Puerto

Cortez an hour before the steamer sailed.”

I handed him the telegram which Dr Otto had despatched.

“When did you get this?” he inquired.

“Late last night.”

“You ought to have had it six hours earlier or more. This telegram has

been delayed. Some fault in the telegraph office,—nobody knows, or will

know, why; but it is very provoking.”

It was indeed, but there was no use in repining; and as I knew that

there was a respectable house to go to, kept by Madame B——, in Puerto

Cortez, I tried to make the best of the matter. My chief anxiety was

about the money.

“The purser of the Wanderer has very probably left that in the charge of

Mr De Brot for you,” he said. “Nobody will wonder at your

non-appearance; they are all up to the ways of the country. Go in and

take some refreshment, and then I will escort you and Anita to the

corral. I have some fine horses to show you.”

I took leave of the general and his pretty niece in better spirits on

the following morning, and as haste was not now necessary, I was more at

liberty to admire the wild magnificent country which extends to within a

few miles of the port.

In addition, I bore with the greatest _sang froid_ the total immersion

of the baggage-mule in a swamp, and the delay and worry of getting her

out again. This accident happened, fortunately, near a native village,

and so assistance was easily obtained. Owing to the detention which this

occasioned, it was late before we reached Madame’s house.

This good lady was on the look-out for us, and her brother helped me

from the saddle almost before the mule had come to a standstill. “We are

not astonished at your being late,” he said, “but all is arranged. Mr De

Brot has got your money, and we will make you comfortable here till the

Wanderer returns, and my sister’s charges will be moderate.”

How many, how very many simple kind people are there after all in

Honduras!

Puerto Cortez is not much better than a sandy swamp, only waiting an

opportunity to slip into the sea and be lost for ever as a human

dwelling-place. Its only sight is at the shed which forms the terminus

of the railway communication between it and San Pedro Sula. There, piled

up in rust and dust, are to be seen heaps of material imported to form

the railway of Honduras. Bolts, tires, wheels, rails, chains, and

various other of the material necessary to make a railway, are to be

found piled up in profusion in this place; and the Hondureian points at

it with a kind of grim delight as he tells you that thousands of pounds

are rotting there.

Let us hope that this waste is only temporary. Late letters inform me

that Dr Fritz Gartner and Mr Shears, American citizens, have entered

into a contract with the Government of Honduras for the navigation of

the Ulua river and its tributaries, the Venta and the Blanco. This

accomplished, the reconstruction of the railway is sure to follow.

The _ménage_ of Madame B—— was on a much more liberal scale than that of

Chicaramos; and in consequence my strength partially returned to me,

although I suffered fearfully from the sand-flies, which at Puerto

Cortez are minute demons. Mr De Brot was also kind and attentive, but,

as a matter of business, Dr Pope’s name had been scarcely mentioned.

At length a missive, which ran as follows, was handed to me one hot

morning:—

“I, John Frederic De Brot, Her Britannic Majesty’s Consul at Puerto

Cortez:—

“Whereas Miss Mary —— and the Rev. Dr W. L. Pope have consented to

submit to my arbitration the question in dispute between them, about the

unnecessary expenses accrued to the former in a useless voyage to this

country; and whereas I declared myself willing to accept the office of

arbitrator in this matter, I have come to the following decision, based

on the letters and other documents presented to me:—

“That the Rev. Dr Pope pay to Miss Mary —— the half of the expenses she

has incurred in her voyage to and from this country.

“Given under my hand and seal, this tenth day of October 1881.

(Signed) “J. F. DE BROT,

_British Consul_.”

“You will never get a penny from Pope, I am sure,” said Mr De Brot, when

I called to thank him for this document. “Still, I think it will be a

satisfaction to you to have your own statements thus, as it were,

publicly substantiated; I only wish that you had insisted upon a legal

agreement before you started, but in the face of such a letter as Pope’s

last one to you, I do not wonder at this idea not occurring to you.”

“The matter at this point, Mr De Brot,” I replied, “just resolves into

this: nothing succeeds like success. Had this matter turned out

fortunately, every one would have said, What an enterprising woman

‘Soltera,’ is! so sensible to go abroad, where there is so much more

opening for employment,—and all the rest of it. As it is, I am

considerably out of pocket, and many of my friends, I feel sure, will be

more ready to blame than to sympathise with me in the matter. However,

the world on the whole is kind, and I shall be able to work the lost

money back in some way; you know ‘Voy con Dios’ is my motto.”

Mr De Brot asked if I had thought of putting the affair into the

law-courts of Honduras, in the case of Dr Pope’s refusing to pay.

“Certainly not,” I replied; “it would be a degradation not only to

myself, but also to my family. Your decision establishes my claim and my

honour; for the rest, I am content to let this unworthy man go his way.”

As I said this, the quaint old Italian proverb ran through my mind—“Evil

does not always come to do hurt.”

“I am glad to hear you say this,” replied the consul; “but I boil with

indignation when I think of this man. However, you are better off than

many.”

“May I ask if you have seen Dr Pope since he received his copy of the

arbitration?”

“He came to my office last night, but he was in such a state that I

refused to see him. Depend upon me, if I can get any money out of him

for you, I will do so.”

“I suppose,” continued Mr De Brot, his handsome kind face lighting up

with a smile, “after this experience you will never believe more in

anything or anybody?”

“Not quite so bad as that,” I replied: “has not the golden cord of

others’ kindness run like a string to hold me up through all my

troubles? Believe me, I am not ungrateful, and I shall often think with

pleasure of the people of Honduras.”

My journal further runs, 14th October 1881:—

“Received a kind note from Mrs Barlee, asking me to spend a few hours at

Government House at Belize, when the Wanderer should touch there on her

way to New Orleans.

“The captain and some of the passengers of the ship Cyprio have just

come in from Belize.

“_Saturday, 15th._—A red-letter day, and quite a return to civilisation.

Spent day on board the Cyprio, and played whist and the piano. Mrs

Kindred, Mrs Brodie, Mrs Brockeley, Mr M‘Cullock, and the chief officer,

together with the captain. What people could be kinder or nicer?

“_Sunday, 16th._—Called to say ‘adieu’ to good, kind Mr De Brot.

“_Monday, 17th._—Sailed by the Wanderer for New Orleans. On the 19th

arrived at Belize, and spent a delightful afternoon with Mr and Mrs

Barlee. Their sympathy and kindness I will never forget.

“_October 24th._—Arrived at New Orleans. Whether it is the reaction or

the development of incipient illness, I know not, but here I must stay

and rest. My strength is gone; there is neither fight, nor struggle, nor

travel in me. Mr Albany Fonblanque has procured me quarters in the house

of the lady where he himself resides, and I hear Mrs Glenn is the best

housekeeper and nurse in the world. Mr Fonblanque tells me that it is

semi-starvation which ails me, and that the beautiful winter season of

New Orleans will set me up.”

So I made up my mind to remain and make my home for a time in the

elegant comfortable house of Mrs Glenn.

A few weeks quite restored me. How could it be otherwise, with the

surroundings I have described? Who can read the works of Albany

Fonblanque without feeling certain that in his society, and in that of

the friends he gathered round him, “Soltera” found enjoyment and rest?

From this delightful “winter city” I have come home, poorer (God help me

I) but wiser, and happy. The law of kindness has turned what was bitter

into sweet. To this law I appeal, should “Soltera” be fortunate enough

to find readers of her account of her ride across Spanish Honduras.

_Vale._

THE END.

PRINTED BY WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

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TRANSCRIBER’S NOTES

● Typos fixed; non-standard spelling and dialect retained.

● Enclosed italics font in _underscores_.

● Enclosed bold or blackletter font in =equals=.

A lady's ride across Spanish Honduras · 第 12 / 12 章