What a fascinating sight burst upon us as we stepped inside the

ballroom! The whole place was alive with a dancing crowd of fairies,

gnomes, flowers, butterflies, and dryads, who flitted past in a

bewildering whirl of ever changing color. All the women wore little

black masks, which gave them a most coquettish appearance. The men were

not masked, but their costumes were fully as artistic. As I watched the

glittering throng moving to the strains of a fascinating waltz which

came floating out from behind a grove of evergreens on the stage, I

could easily fancy I was in fairyland.

Just as we were about to cross the hall Fräulein Hartmann caught me by

the arm.

"I've torn my gown," she said in a hurried, excited manner, as she

held up the ragged ruffle on the edge of her train. "I must go to the

dressing-room and fix it. Will you tell my aunt? And oh! please say it

may take twenty minutes or--or a half-hour."

I looked at her in surprise. Her cheeks were flushed brilliantly, and I

would have given much to have seen the expression of her eyes, which her

mask half hid.

"Why, if you would let me help you----" I began, but she interrupted,

pressing my arm tighter.

"Let me go alone, please, _kleine Amerikanerin_." Her voice was pleading

and oddly intense. "It's only such a short time--and, believe me, there

is nothing wrong, _really_. I shall thank you always."

Before I had an opportunity to reply she had slipped away in the crowd.

To say I was amazed were to put it mildly. I was dumfounded. Two points

alone seemed clear in my mind: first, that Fräulein Hartmann had no idea

of spending a half-hour in sewing on a few inches of ruffle; second,

that whatever her motive for remaining away might be, it was "nothing

wrong"; her frank, sweet nature utterly forbade such an idea.

Rather troubled, I caught up quickly with the others of the party and

entered the box to find Lieutenant Blum and Lieutenant Linder waiting.

They looked surprised at seeing me alone, and I hastily explained the

situation. Lieutenant Linder then suggested that we three take a stroll

about the hall, and we started off, I talking very rapidly, in the hope

of turning their attention from the Fräulein's continued absence. I

would not have been a woman had I not myself been a bit curious about

her. We made a tour of the room and at length came to the head of a

flight of stairs. I declared that I was dying of curiosity to discover

what lay at the foot, so we descended and found ourselves in the very

midst of a forest. On every side extended paths lined with trees whose

branches met above in arches. At the end of one of the paths we saw

a log hut. Above, through interlaced branches, shone a silver moon. I

could not help exclaiming at the beauty of the illusion.

There were countless little arbors and retreats where couples were

sitting out dances. We had just started to turn down the path to the

right, when I caught sight of a rose-colored dress in one of these

arbors. A step farther and I saw that the girl leaning against the bench

was Fräulein Hartmann. Her head was thrown back in a characteristic

attitude and her lips were parted, as though eagerly listening to

the words of her companion. He--for of course it was a man--was a

broad-shouldered fellow, with a smooth face and a sword-cut on his

forehead. Bending forward, he looked up intently into the face of the

girl, talking very earnestly, very rapidly, as if pleading a case under

pressure of time.

Quick as a flash I wheeled about and faced the others, for the path was

only broad enough for us to proceed in single file. I declared this walk

stupid; the hut was the only thing really worth seeing; whereupon my

bodyguard, although laughing at the capriciousness of my sex, obediently

followed. How long I lingered about that wretched hut I can't say. At

last, when every pretext was gone, I made my way back again upstairs.

What a sigh of relief I gave when we reached the box, for there sat

Fräulein Hartmann, smiling in her sweet, plaintive fashion, and talking

to her aunt and Herr Doktor with the utmost self-possession. A moment

later we had whirled away among the dancers, and I did not have an

opportunity to exchange a word with her alone.

At twelve o'clock the orchestra stopped playing for an hour and supper

was served. Half of the people had been eating and drinking the entire

evening, for tables had been spread in the boxes from the opening of the

ball. This did not, however, seem to make any difference in the keenness

of their appetites now. We had a very jolly time in our box, for beside

the _pensionnaires_ were several Americans. Among them were Mr. and Mrs.

Albert Sterner. You are doubtless familiar with the delightful work

of Mr. Sterner. He has won considerable reputation, especially for his

illustrations. Both he and his wife added much merriment to the party,

for they are very entertaining. The ball began again at one, but no one

thought of going home till four o'clock. We left Lieutenant Linder still

dancing.

"This lasts till five," he explained, as he took us to our carriage. "I

shall get a cup of coffee at the restaurant, change to my uniform, and

be ready for _Dienst_ (service) at six. I really haven't time to go to

bed."

I captured two very pretty souvenirs of the occasion, one of which you

shall have to decorate your den. Every one who went down on the floor

wore a favor made of blue ribbon, fastened with a gold head of Folly.

Lieutenant Linder and Herr Martens both presented me with theirs, and

in spite of acquiring a habit for greediness, I smilingly accepted

both, with a thought for you. They will look extremely well tacked to an

American wall.

I did so wish for a word with Fräulein, but she drove home alone

with her aunt. As I wrote you, I only see her at table, and so any

conversation of a confidential character is out of the question. She is

not a girl to practise deception, unless forced by circumstances, hence

I fancy that there is something of a serious nature behind her action.

Evidently the handsome young man with the sword-cut is the key to the

mystery! Very likely she is in love with him, instead of with that

disagreeable Blum. Were she an American girl it would not take her long

to throw over the uniform and marry the man she loves; as it is, with

her family and _an officer_ weighing the balance on the opposite side of

the scales, I fear the student's chances are not the most favorable.

_After Supper._

At my last lesson Thuille informed me that he and Tasso were going

hunting on Saturday. Would I pardon him if he gave me my lesson in his

hunting costume? Accordingly to-day he appeared in a wonderful green

shirt striped with white, and open at the neck. His jacket, short

trousers and gaiters were of some rough cloth, and the effect was

decidedly unprofessional.

The train left directly after the lesson, and Tasso was evidently quite

alive to the fact, for instead of sleeping under the desk as he usually

does, he roamed about restlessly during the entire hour, and finally

became so importunate that his master unceremoniously put him out. I had

taken in a practice piece scored for wood-wind and horn, including bass

clarinet and contra-fagott. The ideas on which I had written the part

for bass clarinet were suggested by that bit for the instrument in the

third act of "Siegfried" where Brünnhilde is wakened by the all-powerful

kiss. Unfortunately my result was not what might have been called an

unqualified success. In one measure I had put a rest at the second beat,

after writing two notes. This immediately attracted Thuille's attention.

"Why, you've left him hanging in the air! Poor fellow, he's hanging in

the air between heaven and earth!" he said laughing, but not unkindly. I

thought I ought to laugh too, so I joined in, nervously. It is queer how

much more humorously these things strike one after a lesson than at the

time they actually happen.

"This is the way he would have to play that," continued the professor.

He puckered up his mouth, held his fingers exactly as the player would,

squinted at my score with his head on one side, and blew two notes,

"Poom! Poom!" Then he took the imaginary instrument suddenly away while

his mouth seemed to be forming the same tone. He looked so funny that

this time I could not help laughing heartily, and I saw my mistake at

once.

Later we came to a horn passage, and in place of the mildly flowing

chords in half-notes which I had written he substituted eighth-note

phrases. "I thought that would be too fast," said I, in self-defence.

"Study modern scores!" he exclaimed. "Study modern horn parts! But

don't forget the classics either; and never study Schumann or Brahms for

orchestral writing. They were both poor scorers."

I sometimes wish he employed similes in his explanations; they have such

a way of sticking in my head and making me remember. I recall now an

especially vivid one which Chadwick once made to his orchestral class:

"Here you have your instruments of the orchestra just like so many

colors on a palette," he said. "You combine different ones just as you

mix your colors, to obtain a desired effect. Your task is to make a

complete, finished picture. Choose your subject and go ahead, but take

care to select your materials wisely."

If you remember, Professor John K. Paine has also a fondness for

illustrating his point in this manner, only he chooses literature

instead of art as the source from which to draw his comparisons. I can

see us now sitting side by side in that dingy little room in Vaughan

House before the new music room existed, taking notes on his lectures,

and can hear him saying, "Beethoven is the Shakespeare of music." Do

you remember the day when Miss R---- brought her dog into the class, and

Professor Paine, after peering at it mildly over his glasses from

his seat behind the table, made some witty remark about the increased

interest in his lectures which now drew the very beasts to hear him? And

later, how kindly but firmly he insisted that Miss R---- leave her pet

at home hereafter, inasmuch as he had already punctuated his paper on

Haydn, and he did not consider the assistance of the dog, who broke in

every now and then with sharp barks, at all necessary.

As soon as the lesson was over I hurried home, for _Mütterchen_ and I

had seats for the _Zauberflöte_ that evening. We had an early supper

in our rooms, for the opera began at half-past six. I had not heard a

Mozart opera since last September, when the Mozart-cycle was held in the

Residenz Theatre. Then I enjoyed _Cosi fan tutte_, with Fritzi Scheff

as Despina. The Residenz Theatre is an ideal place to hear Mozart. It

is only large enough to seat eight hundred persons, and the orchestra

sounds most effective. The Hof Theatre is too large for the production

of Mozart's operas. After one act of the _Zauberflöte_ I began to find

the orchestra thin and somewhat monotonous. When the music is really so

beautiful, it seems a pity not to give it under the best conditions.

Fräulein Hartmann and her aunt sat just across from us in the balcony. I

hoped that we might all walk home together, but when we met at the door

afterwards there was Lieutenant Blum, important and self-satisfied,

waiting to escort them.

Good night now, my dear.

_Fasching-Dienstag_ (_Shrove Tuesday_).

München gone mad! München with dignity thrown to the winds and cavorting

in the dress of a clown! München laughing, dancing, fairly shrieking

with pure glee! The misty atmosphere through which one always views the

distant majesty of the Maximileum as one looks down Maximilian-strasse

is curiously filled with a new sort of snowflake, a tiny, square atom

which may be red or green or the most vivid of yellows. The sidewalks

are packed with a half-crazed throng, some in vari-colored costumes,

others in street dress, but all pelting one another with confetti, while

the street itself is crowded with slow-moving lines of carriages whose

occupants join no less wildly in the fun. And all this because it is the

last day of the carnival.

My first glimpse of the frolic to come was afforded me on Saturday. I

was deep in the midst of a canonic imitation when there came a knock on

the door and in burst Karl, radiant, his cheeks aglow with excitement.

He was dressed in a wonderful costume, which consisted of a loose white

shirt with black silk pompons down the front, white trousers, a gigantic

white ruff about the neck and a high pointed hat.

"_Bin ich nicht nett, gnädiges Fräulein?_" (Am I not fine?) he cried,

kissing my hand with mock deference and prancing about the study. "Just

wait till you see me to-morrow! Then I am to have a grand mustache and

all kinds of red and green designs painted on my cheeks!"

He grinned with delight at the thought of these cannibalistic

decorations, which, however, struck me as more appropriate for a circus

than a Sunday promenade.

To-day _Mütterchen_, the Baroness, Herr Martens, and I took a carriage

before the house at two o'clock. One's first carnival is not a thing to

be taken calmly and I was all excitement, staring to right and left, and

craning my neck in my endeavor not to miss anything. On every corner

we passed stood old women and men with little pushcarts full of

bright-colored bags of confetti or baskets of _Luft-Schlangen_ (long

paper streamers done up in small rolls, to be thrown through the

air like those we have at the Harvard Class Day exercises around the

statue). For ten pfennigs (two and one-half cents) one could obtain a

generous supply, and following the Baroness' suggestion, we stocked the

carriage well.

We found the streets already so crowded that we were forced to proceed

very slowly towards Max-Joseph-Platz. Just as we reached the post-office

a horn blew sharply, policemen hurriedly pushed back the crowd, and the

First and Second Cavalry regiment officers came galloping by us and

on down the street between the two long lines of carriages. Their

appearance was most grotesque. Dressed as clowns, in suits of black or

white, their painted faces made them all look alike. With snapping whips

they urged on their horses at full speed. The excited animals seemed to

enjoy the fun as much as their riders, and shook their gayly ribboned

manes proudly.

Hardly had we started again, for our carriage had come to a halt to let

them pass, when I heard a familiar voice cry, "Hola!" and as I turned

to see who was shouting, a handful of confetti was thrown straight in

my face. For a moment I was angry, for the sensation of eyes and mouth

suddenly full of paper is not conducive to amiability. Then, realizing

the absurdity of losing my temper at such a time, I dived my hand into

a bag to retaliate on my antagonist. Before I could discover him another

shot landed in the back of my neck and over my hat a _Luft-Schlange_

came floating.

"Caught you that time, _gnädiges Fräulein_," said a voice, and I met the

laughing glance of Karl, who jumped on the step of our carriage and rode

along with us. His white costume was sadly soiled, but he had fulfilled

all his promises as to the horrible wonder of a painted mustache and

streaked cheeks. A North American Indian could not have improved on him.

"I've ridden up and down five times already," he said, as he jumped off

to pay a similar visit to some friends just across.

"There's Lou and the girls," I cried, catching sight of a carriage in

the opposite line coming up the street as we went down. Having learned

my lesson I was not slow to put it in practice, for standing up in the

carriage I pelted them mercilessly, Herr Martens supplying me with

a fresh bag every time I needed one, and the Baroness joining

enthusiastically in the attack.

It was not a one-sided battle, for the girls were quick to return our

shots, and the aim of the little Italian count who was with them was

excellent. You should have seen our carriage when they were finally out

of range. The floor, up to our shoe-tops, was filled with confetti; our

jackets were covered with it, and from the shoulders of the driver,

from our hats, from the sides of the carriage hung countless brilliant

streamers.

At the big statue we turned and came back. When we finally succeeded in

reaching the post-office we found a most exciting thing taking place.

A company of clowns on horseback, whom we recognized as the cavalry

officers who had earlier passed us, were forming in line at the farther

end of the Platz. Suddenly they set off with brisk canter, swung around

the statue of Max Joseph, and dashed at full speed up the high flight

of stairs leading to the opera house! They came back rushing down the

driveway. The horses were almost beside themselves with excitement, for

their officers leaning far forward, brandished their whips, dug in their

spurs, and urged on the beasts by frantic shouts and exclamations, while

the crowd of onlookers cheered wildly. It was a thrilling sight, and I

watched them breathlessly. I could not help feeling that at any moment

one of these half-crazed creatures, now flecked with foam, might

lose his balance and fall backwards down the steps crushing his

rider beneath, and so I gave a relieved sigh as I saw the men at last

dismount, give their quivering steeds to an orderly, and adjourn to the

café opposite. Just then the Baron and Herr Doktor, who were walking,

came up to our carriage.

"We'll take you into the café for a moment," said the Baron. "It is apt

to grow rather rough there later, but you must get a glimpse of another

side of the carnival."

Accordingly, well barricaded by the gentlemen, we quietly entered the

café and took the only vacant table which stood in a retired corner.

Here again the officers had undisputed possession of the place. They

were laughing, dancing and singing in a boisterous though not at all in

an offensive fashion. Meanwhile an orchestra in the centre of the room

played some lively music.

"Your selection pleaseth me but poorly," declaimed a tall fellow with a

blue ruff about his neck, as he tapped on the shoulder of the director.

"Why not soothe our ears with a ditty akin to this?" whistling one of

the popular student airs. He seized the baton and mounted the platform,

rapping sharply on the rack. The players, entering into the spirit of

the thing, followed him perfectly. This was not so simple a matter as

it sounds, for he conducted with a ridiculous exaggeration of all the

mannerism, gestures and poses of Weingartner. It was very cleverly done

and set every one into roars of laughter, especially when the fellow

insisted on a _pianissimo_ passage. Then he would tilt back his head,

wave his left hand with that curious droop of the finger-tips so

characteristic of the great conductor, and nonchalantly beat time with

his stick at an angle directed towards heaven.

No sooner had he finished and returned with low bows of mock modesty to

his place, than an officer in the corner jumped on top of a table and,

stein in hand, began singing. The crowd, who had gathered around him,

joined in the refrain, clinking their mugs together, for of course every

one was drinking beer--_ça va sans dire_. If an officer chanced to

be without any, he made his way to a table where some onlookers were

sitting, and with a courteous "beg pardon," and a graceful raising of

the pointed cap, helped himself to the largest stein from under the very

nose of its owner, and walked serenely off. No one seemed to mind

this, the original possessor of the beer least of all, for he laughed

heartily, and ordered the waiter to bring him a fresh supply. The

established rule of the carnival is to take everything in the greatest

good humor and let the spirit of fun prevail.

"To your very good health! May you live long, be prosperous, and

see many carnivals!" said another fellow as he helped himself to a

stranger's wine and raised the glass to his lips.

"That's Count von E----," said the Baroness in a whisper, as he set down

the glass, bowing gravely. "I should know his peculiar walk anywhere."

"It was certainly most interesting," said I, as after watching the

frolic for half an hour we walked out into Perusia-strasse.

"You don't have anything half as jolly in America, do you?" said Herr

Martens, with a tone of superiority in his voice. Whenever any one

addresses me with that inflection my spread-eagleism is aroused. I

immediately began to dilate on America and the American. This time I

chose as my theme "Fourth of July," which of all our celebrations

seemed nearest akin to this, and my glowing description of the manifold

features of Independence Day caused the carnival to seem like a

children's festival.

Did I write you that the Americans in the _pension_ opposite were to

give a St. Valentine's party? Owing to illness it was postponed to the

evening of _Fasching Dienstag_. Accordingly we finished our day by a

dance and general frolic with the girls, which was one of the jolliest

things I have been to this year. This letter is so full of frivolity

that to tell you of my doings in a musical way seems most incongruous,

so I will save all such items for my next.

As ever, dear Cecy,

M.

VII

_March 3, 10.30 P. M._

I have just returned from the _Moderner Abend_ at the Kaim Saal, and am

so excited that to go calmly to bed and to sleep is an impossibility. I

don't know when I have enjoyed anything as much. The concert, as you

may have judged by the name, was made up of compositions by living

composers. Stavenhagen arranged it and all the numbers but one were

played for the first time. Here is the program:

1. Singspiel Overture Edgar Istel.

First time!

2. _Ein Zweigespräch_, Tone-poem. Max Schillings.

(For solo violin, solo 'cello, and small orchestra.)

[Richard Rettich--Heinrich Warnke.]

First time!

3. Scene and Monologue of

Lukas from the Opera _Der Conegidor_ Hugo Wolf.

[Anton Dressler.]

First time!

4. _Klavierkonzert_ (op. 6) in B flat minor Felix vom Rath.

[Anna Langenhan-Hirzel.]

5. III. Act of _Gugeline_ Ludwig Thuille.

[Gugeline, Agnes Stavenhagen. The Prince, Franz Bergen.]

First time!

The names in brackets are those of the soloists. For some reason or

other the order was altered. Thuille's piece and Hugo Wolf's changed

places. Edgar Istel, who conducted his own overture, is a tall,

broad-shouldered, fine-looking young fellow, and a pupil of Thuille.

I am in doubt as to his nationality for he certainly looks too well

groomed for a German. The Schillings piece was a lovely, sustained

thing. That man certainly knows how to write for the 'cello! We heard

his opera _Ingwelde_ last week, and remarked the same thing then. The

third number was, however, _the_ number of the evening. I wish I could

describe to you the enchanting beauty of this music from _Gugeline_--its

delicacy, freshness, and tenderness. And yet withal there is no

semblance of insipidity about it, for in spite of the dominance of

fanciful, graceful motifs the music every now and then assumes a more

passionate tinge, as though an undercurrent of deeper feeling flowed

beneath its charming surface. Agnes Stavenhagen, the wife of the

director, sang with great niceness. Thuille has a trick of ending a

phrase by a jump to a high _pianissimo_ note, and she rendered this most

effectively.

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