The proper method for the disposal of house sewage is an important
question on the farm. Cess-pools, simply pits dug in the ground, are
great disease spreaders. The liquids from them seep through the ground,
carry germs from the pool to the well, render “the best drinking-water
in the country” unfit for use, and often cause the spread of disease.
The modern farmer no longer puts up with such barbaric practice.
Cess-pools have long been prohibited in cities, where immense sums of
money are spent for the proper disposal of sewage. It is not possible
to provide farms with these expensive plants, nor is it necessary.
Through the use of an inexpensive septic tank all of the conveniences
of the toilet and bath may be installed in the house and the danger
from sewage removed.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
Septic tanks are nothing but long underground, water-tight cisterns
through which the sewage passes very slowly and evenly. Located
underground, they are warm and dark—ideal conditions for the
development of the bacteria, little germs which eat up the sewage and
render it harmless in much the same way as another kind causes cider to
ferment. To prevent the bacteria (which live in the frothy sludge) from
being disturbed cross-walls, called baffle boards, are placed to break
up the current of the inflowing sewage. The purified sewage, merely
clear water, may be discharged into the farm drain tile.
Locate the septic tank where it can be placed entirely with the side
walls underground and out of danger of flood waters. For a family of 8
to 10, plan a tank with 8-inch walls, 5 feet wide, 5 feet deep and 10
feet long—all dimensions in the clear. Lay out the tank and construct
it in exactly the same manner as UNDERGROUND CISTERNS, page 68.
Before filling the forms, set in the 6-inch inlet and outlet drains
at the same height, 2 feet 6 inches below the ground level. To aid
further in breaking up the currents and keeping out too much air, use
elbow bends, so that the sewage in the tank will cover the mouths of
the tile. In the side forms, at a distance of 2 and 4 feet from the
inlet wall, set ¾-inch bolts to which the baffle boards will later be
attached. These boards reach entirely across the tank, project above
the sewage, and extend to within 1 foot of the bottom. While building
the manhole covers, for the needed ventilation, insert in them four
short lengths of 1-inch gas pipe.
Remove the forms the same as for underground cisterns.
[Illustration: Concrete Hydrant Sink]
[Illustration]