Divide the walk by setting forms at right angles to the side forms.
The cross forms can be made of 2 by 4’s. These provide for expansion
and contraction joints. Hold these forms in place by driving stakes
through the foundation into the ground on the opposite side from where
the concrete is to be placed. Spread the concrete over the drainage
foundation to the thickness of the walk or floor, and in slabs not over
6 feet square. The thickness of a walk should be 4 inches, a driveway
6 inches, a floor over which a wagon may be driven 6 inches, and all
other floors 4 inches.
Fill in every other slab, placing enough forms to use up all the
concrete mixed in one batch. No batch should stand longer than one half
hour before being placed.
Tamp the concrete thoroughly. Use a template, with ends resting on the
side forms, and cut to a curve to give the walk the necessary crown.
The concrete should be tamped so as to conform to the curve of the
template. If one edge of the walk is made higher than the other, use a
straight edge resting on the side forms. Tamp the concrete to conform
to the straight edge.
[Illustration]
Mix another batch of concrete, remove the cross forms and place the
concrete between each slab, forming a continuous walk. Use the template
or straight edge and tamp as before. Immediately after placing the
closing slab, work a straight trowel or knife down through the entire
depth of the concrete between each slab, thus insuring a perfect
contraction joint. Smooth the surface with a wooden float.
[Illustration]
[Illustration]
A neat appearance may be given the contraction joints by running a
jointer along the top, thus smoothing the edges. Do this before the
concrete gets too hard. The sides of the walk may be smoothed in the
same way by use of an edger.
[Illustration]
When the concrete is nearly hard go over the surface with a piece of
oakum or a stiff brush, removing the marks of the float and giving a
good even wearing surface which will not be slippery. In using oakum
or a brush be careful not to remove the larger pieces of stone. If
surfacing in this manner disturbs the particles of stone and roughens
the walk to too great an extent, allow the walk to harden a little more
before finishing in this way. At the end of each day’s work see that
the last slab is entirely filled and finished.
[Illustration]
All interior floors, such as floors of cellar, barns and stables
require no contraction joints. They are made by laying a solid
continuous sheet of concrete. All outside floors should have
contraction joints forming slabs not over 6 feet square. These are
provided the same as in sidewalks. A feeding floor is formed merely
by sidewalk pavements set side by side. Instead of using a template
for crowning the surface, use a straight edge, each end resting on the
extreme outside forms to give a slope to the feeding floor. Contraction
joints for exterior floors are formed in the same way as for sidewalks.
The concrete is also placed in alternate slabs and finished in the same
way as sidewalks. When completed the walk or floor must be continuously
protected from the rays of the sun and from the wind for at least three
days, so that it will not dry out at any time. This can be easily
done by covering the concrete when it is hard with hay, straw, or old
carpet. This covering should be thoroughly soaked with water, and kept
wet for three or four days or longer if economy will permit.
[Illustration]
While the walk or floor is hardening it should be so protected as to
prevent persons or animals from disfiguring the surface by walking on
it.
[Illustration]