TRAPPING WOLVES.
After all of the various methods of hunting have been given a fair
and impartial trial it will usually be found that trapping is the
best means of capturing the wolf and coyote. Large numbers of traps
may be set and attended to and the chances of making a good catch are
greatly increased by so doing. If one has a liking for the work,
makes a study of the animals and sets the traps carefully, good
results are sure to follow. In all probability, four fifths of the
coyotes and wolves captured in the United States are taken in this
way. It is quite common for the professional trapper to take one
hundred or more coyotes and wolves in a season.
The trap that is recommended for the timber wolf and the only one
that was ever designed for capturing that animal is the "Newhouse"
No. 4 1/2. It is a large and powerful trap, having a spread of jaws
of 8 inches with the other parts properly proportioned. It is
furnished with a two pronged drag and a heavy steel chain, guaranteed
to stand a strain of 2000 pounds. The trap complete with chain and
drag weighs about 8 pounds. A simpler and stronger chain fastening
than that shown in the cut, is now used for attaching the chain to
the trap.
[Illustration: No. 4 1/2 Newhouse Wolf Trap.]
Although the No. 4 1/2 is the trap recommended for timber wolves, the
No. 4 Newhouse is probably preferred by the average trapper, because
of its lighter weight and its adaptability to catching coyotes, which
are found in greater abundance than wolves. The trap has a spread of
jaws of 6 1/2 inches, and its strength is sufficient for holding
almost any wolf, providing the captured animal is not allowed to
struggle too long, and that the trap is not staked, or otherwise
securely fastened. Even when securely staked the No. 4 Newhouse will
hold almost any one of the younger grey wolves, and it is mostly the
young animals that are captured.
[Illustration: The Two-Pronged Drag.]
The standard trap is furnished with a short chain and ring, but when
so ordered, the manufacturers will gladly furnish the traps with
longer chains and the two pronged drag shown in the cut, or if
desired the drags alone may be purchased and attached to any trap
chain. The two pronged drag has an advantage over the four pronged
kind, as it will occupy less space and may be more easily secreted.
It will be noted that the chain of the No. 4 1/2 trap has a double
end. This is so that it may be looped around a small log or block of
wood, if it is desired to do so. Some trappers prefer the chain
without the iron drag, and for such the drag will be omitted. Others
prefer to use the No. 4 trap with a 5 foot chain and a stone wired
securely to the end. This makes a very good combination, but for some
sections is not practicable as stones are "few and far between."
[Illustration: Method of Attaching an Oblong Stone.]
[Illustration: Method of Attaching a Triangular Stone.]
On the subject of fastening traps, Mr. Vernon Bailey of the
Biological Survey gives the following:
"The best anchor for a wolf trap is a stone drag of 30 or 40 pounds
weight, to which the trap is securely wired. A long oval stone is the
best, but a triangular or square stone can be securely wired.
Ordinary galvanized fence wire or telegraph wire should be fastened
around the ends of the stone and connected by a double loop of the
wire, then the trap chain fastened to the middle of this loop. A jerk
on the trap tends to draw the bands together, and the spring of the
connecting wire loop prevents a sudden jar that might break trap or
chain. Twisted or barbed fence wire may be used if sufficiently
strong, but it is not so easily handled. If no stones are available,
or if the trap must be immovably fixed, it should be fastened with a
twisted iron stake that can be driven below the surface of the
ground. These stakes should be at least 18 inches long and of good
iron straps three quarters of an inch wide and three-sixteenths of an
inch thick. In light soil they should be still longer. See figures 1
and 2. If a picket pin sufficiently strong, provided with a swivel
that will turn in all directions, can be purchased at the local
hardware store, it may not be necessary to have a pin made to order."
[Illustration: Iron Stakes for Traps.]
It is our opinion that the twisted pin would not be as satisfactory
as the plain one shown in Fig. 3. If the swivel should lock, and fail
to work, the stake might be twisted out of the ground by the
struggles of the animal. With the heavy, square pin shown in Fig. 3,
this could not occur. The pin should be made of wrought iron, about
5/8 or 3/4 inch in diameter at the top, and tapering to a point. The
length should be the same as those described above.
The majority of the trappers who prefer to stake the traps use
hardwood stakes and attach the chains by means of hay baling wire,
twisting it with a pair of pliers. In many parts of the wolf country,
hardwood is not to be had and many of the trappers use the spokes of
old wagon wheels for trap stakes. We believe, however, that iron
stakes are to be preferred to wooden ones.
The traps to use for coyotes are the Nos. 3 and 4 and the most
suitable style of chain would depend entirely on the method of
setting and fastening the traps. In some of the sets described, for
both wolf and coyote, the traps, some three or four in number, are
all fastened to one stake and for such a set the chains should be
short, as also in the bank set. Where it is desired to use a drag of
any kind, the chain should be 4 or 5 feet in length. This should be
remembered when purchasing the traps and the method of setting that
will be used should be kept in mind.
As before mentioned, most of the wolves caught are young animals less
than a year old. After a wolf has reached its third year, it has
attained a high degree of intelligence, and comparatively few of that
age are caught in traps. In some sections wolves are more wary than
in others and are more difficult of capture. This depends much on the
abundance or scarcity of food and the amount of hunting and trapping
that has already been done in that section. Where wolves and coyotes
have not been trapped much, they are less shy but they are always
sufficiently wary to make extreme care in setting the traps necessary
for success.
No matter what method of trapping may be employed, there is only one
satisfactory way of setting the trap, on bare ground. In a smooth,
sandy spot, dig out a hollow the same shape as the set trap and of
such a depth that when the trap is in place and covered with about
1/4 inch of dirt, the covering will be flush with the surrounding
surface of the ground. A narrow trench may then be made, to
accommodate the chain, and a hole in which to bury the drag. If a
stake is used it may be driven under the trap and the trench will not
be needed, or it may be driven at the side according to the method of
setting but the stake must be neatly covered in all cases. The trap
is then placed in position, the chain, drag and springs are covered
and the portion outside of the jaws is filled with dirt, leaving only
the jaws and pan uncovered. Now a sheet of clean paper should be
placed over the jaws and pan and the whole covered with about 1/4 or
3/8 inch of fine dirt, covering the edges first and finishing with
the center. A piece of canvas or hide should be provided, on which to
place the dirt while setting the traps, and with which to carry away
what is not needed for covering. When the setting is finished
everything should look as smooth and undisturbed as it did before the
trap was set.
[Illustration: Trap Set and Ready for Covering.]
In case the paper sags between the trap jaws and the pan, a few lumps
of ground may be so placed as to support it, but care must be used so
that no dirt gets under the pan. In freezing weather, make the nest
for the trap somewhat deeper and line it well with sage leaves or
some other light material, also fill in around jaws and springs with
same, before covering. This will prevent the trap from freezing down.
Do not put cotton under the pan as some advise doing, for if it gets
wet it will freeze and interfere with the working of the trap. If the
traps spring too easily, they may be remedied by drilling a small
hole through the edge of the pan and inserting a tooth pick or small
twig in such a way that it will support the pan. This will prevent
birds and small animals from springing the traps. The same result may
be obtained by bending the point of the "dog" or trigger of the trap
upward and thereby causing the trap to spring harder.
Always before placing the trap in position, turn the springs towards
the jaw that is held down by the trigger. This will allow the loose
jaw to drop down to a level and let the trap rest more solidly in its
nest. When adjusting the pan, always work from under the loose jaw,
to avoid accidents.
Many trappers advise wearing gloves when setting or otherwise
handling the traps, to prevent leaving human scent. It is our opinion
that this is not only unnecessary but also useless, as the human odor
will pass through a leather glove readily, and even through the sole
of a heavy shoe. While there is no doubt that the scent of man will
put any wary animal on its guard, there is no way to avoid leaving
this same scent about the setting. This, however, will pass away
after three or four days and it is after the traps have been set for
some time that most of the wolves and coyotes are captured.
Although the traps may be handled with bare hands, we would advise
that it is wise to not leave any more lasting odors than that from
handling the traps, also do not leave any footprints or other signs
of human presence. If, in summer, a line of traps can be set just
before a rain, so much the better, as all odors and signs of
disturbance will be removed by it. In winter a light fall of snow
will have a tendency to improve the catch, as it will cover all human
signs and to a great extent, smother the human and other odors that
may have been left about the setting.
It is important that no lasting, foreign odors be allowed to remain
on the traps or any of the implements used in making the set. The
trapper should make it a point at all times to keep the traps clean
and free from scents which might enable the animals to locate and
avoid the trap. For the same reason strong smelling grease and oils,
such as kerosene should never be used as preservatives, in fact, we
think it best that the traps have no preparation whatever. Some
trappers dip the traps in blood but unless the entire setting is
saturated with same, it is not wise to do so as the wolf would be
sure to locate it. When setting close to a large bait, it is well to
rub the trap and chain with a piece of the bait, so that everything
about the setting will have the same odor.
[Illustration: Wyoming Wolf Trapper Driving the Trap Stake.]
The same result may be obtained by covering the traps with hair from
the animal used for bait, or with the contents of the paunch. When
nesting the traps in sage leaves, as advised elsewhere, the odor of
the trap will be greatly neutralized by the leaves, as they have a
powerful odor. In trail sets on the cattle and sheep range, the traps
may be covered with the droppings of the animals. All of these
methods have the same result, namely, that of smothering the odor of
the trap and allaying the animals' suspicions.
Just what will be needed for trapping wolves and coyotes will depend
entirely on circumstances, but mainly on just how much of a business
one wishes to make of it. The abundance or scarcity of the game, the
nature of the country, the proximity to civilization and many other
matters must also be considered. For the average professional trapper
of the western cattle range, we believe the following will be about
right: In the country lying just east of the Rocky Mountain Range,
vegetation is rather scanty and as horses must pick their own living,
they must have plenty of time for doing so, therefore, several saddle
horses will be needed. In that way the trapper can change horses
daily and give them a chance to rest and rustle food. For
transporting the outfit and stringing out the traps, pack horses must
be employed. Old, worn out horses will answer for packing and after
the traps are once strung out, they may be killed for bait or
otherwise disposed of, as one of the saddle horses may be used for
what little packing is needed. The equipment should consist of a good
easy saddle, bridle, pack-saddles, pack sacks, saddle blankets,
hobbles, picket ropes, etc. If one is camping a good camping outfit
will be necessary. Such an outfit would consist of a tent, blankets,
cooking utensils, axe and some toilet articles. The average trapper
would easily handle 100 traps, some trappers have many more, and the
proper sizes and number of each size would depend on the
proportionate number of wolves and coyotes found in that locality.
The trapper must also have wire for fastening traps, stakes, paper
for covering, a file for sharpening the axe and repairing traps, a
whetstone, a pair of cutting pliers, a high powered rifle and plenty
of ammunition, saddle scabbard, gun oil, hunting knife, axe sheath,
etc. Such an outfit is costly, and is only useful to the professional
trapper, but if game is plentiful, it will soon pay for itself.
For the ranchman, sheep herder or average western trapper, all that
need be purchased is an outfit of traps of a number which may be
conveniently handled, and a rifle with ammunition for same. All of
the outfit that will be needed is to be found on any western ranch
and as the trapper will not be camping out, the camp outfit would be
omitted.