Transcribed from the 1905–6 Homeland Association Ltd. edition by David
Price, email ccx074@pglaf.org
[Picture: Book cover]
[Picture: The Abbey Church at Waltham]
Harold’s Town
And its Vicinity.
Waltham Abbey, Waltham Cross, Cheshunt,
and High Beech, Epping Forest.
A Handbook for Visitors,
BY
FREEMAN BUNTING.
WITH PHOTOGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATIONS
BY
J. A. C. BRANFILL.
* * * * *
Published under the general editorship
of PRESCOTT ROW, in co-operation with the
URBAN DISTRICT COUNCILS OF WALTHAM, HOLY
CROSS AND CHESHUNT, by The Homeland
Association for the encouragement of Touring
in Great Britain.
Waltham Abbey: M. CUTHBERT, 13, Sun Street.
,, ,, WILLIAM PALLETT, jun., The Churchyard.
Waltham Cross: P. W. MITCHELL, High Street.
Cheshunt: AUG. J. HALL, 91, Turner’s Hill.
London: THE HOMELAND ASSOCIATION, LTD., 22, Bride Lane,
Fleet Street, E.C.
_FIRST EDITION_, 1905–1906.
_All Rights Reserved_.
Ordnance Survey Map of the Country around Waltham Cross and Waltham
Abbey.
_Scale of One Inch to One Statute Mile_,
[Picture: Map]
EDITORIAL NOTE.
WITH a view to making future Editions of this Handbook as accurate and
comprehensive as possible, suggestions for its improvement are cordially
invited. If sent to THE EDITOR, The Homeland Association, Association
House, 22, Bride Lane, Fleet Street, E.C., they will be gratefully
acknowledged.
COPYRIGHT.
This Book as a whole, with its Contents, both Literary and Pictorial, is
Copyrighted in Great Britain.
ADVERTISING.
LOCAL.—Terms for Advertising in future issues of the Waltham and Cheshunt
Handbook will be forwarded on application to the General Manager of the
Homeland Association, at the above address.
GENERAL.—Contracts for the insertion of Advertisements through the whole
series of Homeland Handbooks, nearly fifty volumes, circulating
throughout the country, can be arranged on application to the General
Manager.
_CONTENTS_.
PAGE
_Bibliography_ 4
_Prefatory Note_ 6
_Chapter_ _I.—Describes Waltham Abbey_ 9
,, _II.—A Ramble to Epping Forest and High 31
Beech_
,, _III.—Describes Waltham Cross and Theobalds_ 35
,, _IV.—Describes Cheshunt and its 44
Surroundings_
_A Chronology of Waltham Abbey_ 53
BIBLIOGRAPHY.
“The Foundation of Waltham Abbey.” Rt. Rev. William Stubbs.
“History of the Abbey of Waltham.” John Farmer.
“The Parish of Waltham Abbey.” John Maynard.
“History of Waltham Abbey.” W. Winters.
“History of Waltham Holy Cross.” Rev. J. H. Stamp.
“The Norman Conquest.” E. A. Freeman.
“Architecture and Early History of Waltham Abbey.” E. A. Freeman.
“A History of Abbeys.” Stevens.
“London and its Environs.” Hunter.
“Circuit of London.” Hughson.
“Church History of Britain.” Thomas Fuller.
“Worthies of England.” Thomas Fuller.
“Cheshunt in the Olden Time.” Rev. A. Brown.
“Visitors’ Handbook to Cheshunt.” W. Winters.
“The Family Memoirs of the Rev. W. Stukeley.”
“‘Gentleman’s Magazine’ Library.” Vol. 17. G. L. Gomme.
“British Topographer.” Vol. 1. R. Gough.
“History of Herts.” Cussans.
“History of Herts.” Salmon.
“History of Herts.” Clutterbuck.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
PLATES.
_The Abbey Church at Waltham_ _Frontispiece_
PAGE
_The Abbey Gateway_ 16
_The Eleanor Cross_ 34
_The Parish Church_, _Cheshunt_ 48
ILLUSTRATIONS.
_Romeland_, _Waltham Abbey_ 11
_Ancient Bridge_, _known as_ “_Harold’s 15
Bridge_”
_Waltham One Hundred Years Ago_ 19
_The Interior of the Abbey Church_ 23
_The Home of Foxe_, _the Martyrologist_ 29
_The Eleanor Cross showing detail of 36
carving_
_Theobalds_ 37
_Temple Bar_ 39
_In the Village at Cheshunt_ 45
_Cheshunt Great House_ 47
PREFATORY NOTE.
THIS little book is intended for the ordinary individual rather than the
earnest student or the ardent antiquary. As I have attempted to
embellish the dry bones of history and to present the undoubted beauties
and charms of the corner of England that lies upon the Herts and Essex
border in a manner likely to interest the former, my effort will possibly
appear to the latter to have several shortcomings.
That part of the book dealing with Cheshunt has presented some
difficulty. One day, perhaps, some industrious historian will prepare a
really good history of the ancient parish of Cheshunt, and utilise to the
best purpose the wealth of material that lies hidden away in the parish
chests.
To the Rev. J. H. Stamp, I am indebted for reading the proofs and for
some valuable information, as well as for his kind permission to use the
chronological data prepared by him. To Mr. H. Collingwood Lee my thanks
are also due for his kind assistance.
FREEMAN BUNTING.
WHITE WEBBS, July, 1905.
The Publisher’s Address to the Reader.
THIS little volume forms one of the Homeland Handbooks, a series founded
in 1897, with a view of providing adequate information respecting special
localities and districts. They are issued at popular prices, and contain
everything likely to interest the intelligent visitor regarding the
History, Traditions, Worthies, and Antiquities of the neighbourhoods with
which they deal.
In each case the books are written by a qualified Author, with special
local knowledge.
Other Volumes in the Series likely to interest the reader of this book
are as follows:—
CLOTH. PAPER.
Hertford, and the Country of Charles Lamb and 2/- 1/-
Izaak Walton
The City of St. Albans, its Abbey and its 2/6 1/-
Surroundings
Dunstable and its Surroundings 2/- 1/-
_A full list will be found on pages_ ii _and_ iii.
* * * * *
The Homeland Association for the Encouragement of Touring in Great
Britain, Association House, _22_, Bride Lane, Fleet Street, E.C.
‘DON’TS’ FOR PICNIC PARTIES.
THE Council of the Selborne Society urgently requests visitors to treat
the country they are visiting with the reverence due to natural beauty.
DON’T gather such quantities of wild flowers and ferns that before the
day is over you are obliged to throw them away on the roadside. By such
gathering you injure the flora of the district, and you take away
pleasures from many people who like to see flowers and ferns growing in
their native haunts.
DON’T disturb the birds in their breeding season.
DON’T litter the places visited with waste papers or torn letters.
DON’T leave empty bottles and other débris of your picnic to vulgarise
the spots, the scenery of which you have been enjoying.
HAROLD’S TOWN AND ITS VICINITY.
WALTHAM ABBEY, WALTHAM CROSS,
CHESHUNT, AND HIGH BEECH, EPPING FOREST.
* * * * *
CHAPTER I.
WALTHAM ABBEY.
HAROLD’S TOWN! We may well speak of Waltham Holy Cross in this way, for
the place virtually owes its foundation to the last representative of the
Saxon dynasty, and abounds in associations with the brave, pious, and
wise prince whose lordship, like that of his great predecessor, Alfred,
had so great an influence for good upon the social and political
institutions of our England, and who so nobly and bravely disputed the
claim to the throne with the Norman invader on the field of Senlac. We
find a contemporary estimate of Earl Harold’s character in the historic
tract, _De Inventione Sanctæ Crucis_, the unknown author of which, who
was, however, a Waltham man, says: “His was the truest heart and the
wisest head and the strongest and gentlest hand in the land.” And the
greatest historians of our own time have spoken in high, appreciative
terms of Harold’s work and influence. How considerable, then, is the
interest to the traveller and student alike of the place with which the
life of Harold was so intimately associated.
Though within just over half an hour’s journey by rail from the
Metropolis, and but a crow flight of some thirteen miles therefrom, it
would be pretty safe to say that not one per cent. of the inhabitants of
the great city have made any sort of acquaintance with the beautiful old
minster of Waltham, which stands to-day for one of the finest examples of
Norman architecture, vying with Westminster Abbey in this respect, whilst
its history is, as old Thomas Fuller has observed, “the history of the
Church of England.” And if this ancient pile represents so much
architecturally and ecclesiastically, it occupies no mean position among
those various influences that have gone to the making of English history.
Hither came, for one purpose and another, many of the royal heads of
England, from Harold, the founder, to Charles II.; dignitaries of the
Church, and potent ornaments of the State; while within the shadow of the
minster’s massy walls lived and laboured men who have moulded and
influenced the thoughts and lives of the people. Henry I. and Matilda of
Scotland were visitors to the Abbey, the latter being a considerable
benefactress; Henry II. established the monastery here and richly endowed
it, he “loved Waltham entirely, and lay many times thereat.” King John
came often to Waltham; Henry III. loved the Abbey for its beauty and
seclusion, and resorted thereto often for peace and retirement. Edward
I. and his beloved wife Eleanor were frequently in residence here, and
when the body of the latter was brought from Grantham to London in 1290,
it rested for a night here, the mortal remains of the king himself
remaining in the Abbey, beside Harold’s tomb, for fifteen weeks, on their
way from Scotland to Westminster in 1307. When Wat Tyler’s insurrection
placed Richard II. in jeopardy he sought the sanctuary of the ancient
pile. Henry VIII., who was very fond of Waltham, had a private lodging
close by the Abbey, and was often the guest of the abbot. Cranmer was
frequently resident at Waltham; John Foxe lived and wrote his “Book of
Martyrs” here; Thomas Tallis, father of our beautiful church music, was
organist at the Abbey; Thomas Fuller, author of the “Worthies of
England,” was incumbent of the Abbey Church; so also was Bishop Joseph
Hall, author of the “Contemplations”; Bishop George Hall was a native of
the town; and Izaak Walton, who so loved the “gentle Lea,” was here often
on a visit to a relative.
[Picture: Romeland. Waltham Abbey]
The bustling train lands the visitor at Waltham Cross Station, in the
county of Herts, and one must proceed for about a mile on foot eastward
to attain the Abbey and town of Waltham Holy Cross, which lie in the
adjoining county of Essex. But after the “mean things that are new” have
been passed, the way is pleasant. The road is bordered on one side for a
goodly distance by the marshlands and crosses many times over the river
Lea, which, as old Fuller humorously observes, “not only parteth Herts
from Essex, but also seven times parteth from itself, and is crossed by
so many bridges.” Beyond the waterside inn on the bridge that spans the
Lea navigation, and displays the comforting sign of the “Old English
Gentleman,” Highbridge Street is entered, and the old town opens out,
with the tower of the Abbey, but just restored to its original dignity of
design, closing in the view. The principal entrance to the Royal
Gunpowder Factory lies just to the left here, and much that is
picturesque and quaint will strike an observant eye on the way. The
diversity in character and style of the houses and shops, the
irregularity of their disposition, with their time-tinted exteriors, and
the bits of garden and splashes of verdant foliage, which break up the
line of bricks and mortar, timber and stucco, give the old street that
peculiar charm which is so often characteristic of an ancient town.
Romeland.
Just before the Abbey is reached, approached by a way that allows little
more room than is needful for a cart to pass, is an open square of very
old houses, a most picturesque corner of the old town, that bears the
somewhat curious appellation of Romeland. {12} How and why the place
came to be so called it is not easy to determine; but the abbots of
Waltham, whose seat was at Copt Hall, had their London house on or
adjacent to a site in the parish of St. Mary-at-Hill, adjoining what is
now Billingsgate Market, which was also called Romeland. To the rent of
this, as well as the market square at Waltham, the Pope laid claim, and
the latter was then known as Romescot or Peter’s Piece. It is to this
circumstance, probably, that the place owes its name.
It was in the house of Master Cressy, a long-fronted structure, which
stands on the left of the entrance to Romeland, that, in 1533, Cranmer,
Fox, and Gardiner discussed the question of Henry’s divorce from
Katherine of Aragon. Then it was that Cranmer “struck the keynote of the
Reformation,” by claiming “for the Word of God that supremacy which had
been usurped by the popes for centuries.” Fuller refers to this as a
significant circumstance and says: “Thus did Waltham give Rome the first
deadly blow in England.”
A King’s Diversions.
Bluff King Hal was very partial to Waltham and enjoyed the hunting in the
forest. He frequently stayed at his house in the Romeland, still
standing at the north-east corner. There are many stories, often with
the “merry monarch” for a hero, connected with his patronage of Waltham.
One day he left his hunting companions and returned to Waltham in the
guise of one of his attendants, and, being invited to the abbot’s table,
ate heartily of the sirloin of beef placed before him, to the great
admiration of his host. “Well fare thy heart,” the latter toasted his
guest, “here is a cup of sack, and remember the grace of thy master. I
would willingly give one hundred crowns on condition that I could feed as
heartily on beef as thou dost! Alas! my weak stomach will hardly digest
the wing of a small rabbit or chicken.” The king pledged his host, and
thanked him; in due time he departed as secretly as he had come. A
little while after, the abbot was suddenly arrested and conveyed to the
Tower, where he was kept for some days on bread and water. Then a
sirloin of beef was set before him, of which he ate heartily. The king
entered in the midst of the meal, and demanded of his prisoner payment of
the hundred crowns, which, when the abbot recognised the trap into which
he had fallen, he gladly paid.
On another occasion, when Henry was the guest of Sir Henry Colte, of
Nether Hall, Roydon, the latter provided a novel entertainment for his
royal guest. It is related that the knight and his men waylaid the monks
on Waltham marsh one dark night, having been informed by spies that they
were on a visit to Cheshunt nunnery, and, catching them in a buck stall
(a trap used for deer) left them wallowing in the mire until dawn. Then
the “knight of merry conceits” conducted his dejected captives to the
king, and presented them to his majesty as the splendid game he had been
able to secure. King Harry burst into a loud fit of laughter, and
declared that, though he had “often seen sweeter, he had never viewed
fatter venison.”
The open space (Romeland), with its quaint high-gabled, stuccoed, and
red-brick houses, is a busy scene on Tuesdays, when the cattle market is
held here. On the eastern side, abutting upon the Abbey church, the
tower of which comes charmingly into view over the house tops, is the
ancient corn mill, which was given to the Abbey by Maud, Queen of Henry
I., in 1108, in exchange for the site of Holy Trinity, Aldgate. She also
restored to the Abbey certain lands, which had been alienated, known as
the Abbey fields, which stretch northward from here; and moreover
established two fairs for the town.
Having so far diverged from the direct road to the Abbey, we may well go
a little further, taking a narrow roadway that runs by the mill leading
to the Abbey fields.
The Abbey Gateway.
At the termination of half a dozen or so of old houses and cottages,
there comes into view a bridge over the mill stream, giving access to a
beautiful arch, or rather pair of arches, known as the Abbey Gateway.
What remains of this once important structure, which formed the main
entrance to the Abbey and the abbot’s house, consists of the front only
of the old gateway, and comprises two ancient pointed arches, with a
tower on the south side (the corresponding tower on the north has
disappeared). At the spring of the main arch, on either side, are still
traceable the arms of Edward III. on a shield surmounted by an angel.
The gateway was originally approached by a drawbridge, and the porter’s
window in the tower which commanded this still exists. The entrance to
the old monastic buildings was by a pointed doorway in the south wall,
which extends from the gate, now bricked up. This handsome old gateway
also formed the entrance to the mansion erected by Sir Edward Denny, to
whom the abbot’s house was given by Elizabeth. He was the grandson of
Sir Anthony Denny, Chamberlain to Henry VIII., to whom much of the
ecclesiastical property of Waltham was given after the Dissolution. Sir
Edward Denny’s house, which was a large one in the characteristic
Elizabethan style (a central doorway and two projecting wings), is spoken
of by an old chronicler as being “beautiful to behold,” with a spacious
garden of a character “scarcely to be equalled by any private
gentleman’s.”
[Picture: The Ancient bridge at Waltham Abbey, known as Harold’s Bridge.
A most interesting Architectural Relic]
Higher up the Corn mill stream, in the Abbey fields, and bordering on the
“pool,” is another beautiful remnant of very early architecture, probably
contemporary with the Abbey church, known as Harold’s Bridge. Tradition
says that in early times this was the only passage across the stream, and
that not only Harold, but Tovi before him, used this bridge, when
proceeding into or from the royal forest of Waltham. It is a most
interesting architectural relic. There are still visible two of the five
beautiful ribs which originally adorned this fine arch. Recently steps
were taken to preserve this interesting monument of antiquity by
restoring the stonework forming the base of the bridge. The Abbey
farmhouse, with its picturesque Elizabethan front, which is said to have
formed the abbot’s stabling in mediæval times, stands to the north-east
of Harold’s Bridge.
[Picture: Waltham. The Abbey Gateway]
The Abbey Church.
From the Abbey fields, the finest view of Harold’s noble minster is
obtained, and it is with feelings of pleasant anticipation that one
retraces one’s steps thereto, meditating on the way upon the many strange
and wondrous scenes that have been witnessed on the ground over which one
passes. As the eye wanders over the beautiful lines and the massive,
age-stained walls of the ancient church, the mind is impressed with its
grandeur and its significance as a vast page of England’s story.
The Abbey church and town of Waltham Holy Cross alike owe their actual
foundation to Tovi the Proud, standard-bearer and chief counsellor to
Cnut, who, delighted by the fine opportunities for hunting which were
afforded by the number of deer running in the great forest of Waltham,
established a settlement here, and founded a convent. Hither, also, Tovi
brought from his manor of Lutegarsbury (Montacute), in Somerset, a
miraculous crucifix, and set it up in the church. The legend of this
Holy Cross, as told in the _De Inventione_ tract, and translated by
Lambarde, is a wonderfully interesting story.
The Legend of the Holy Cross.
It runs as follows: {17} “In the tyme that Kinge Cnut reigned in Ingland
theare lyved at a Place of the called comonly Lutegarsbyry, in French
Montague, a simple man by occupation a carpenter and by Office Sexton of
his parishe, to whom on a Night appeared a Vision of Christe Crucified
commaundinge him that as sone as Day brake he should goe to the parishe
priest and with him accompanied by his parishioners in solemne
processione to go up to the Toppe of the Hyll adjoyninge and to digge
wheare (if they would beforehand make theimselves by Confession,
Fastinge, and Praier worthy of suche a Revelacion) they should finde a
Crosse, the very sign of Christes passion. This plaine Man, supposinge
it a fantastical Dreame, tooke at first no great Head thereof, save that,
he imparted it with his Wife who also thought it but an Illusion.
Wherefore the Image appeared againe, and so griped him by the Hande that
the Dynt of the Nayles remayned in his Hand to be sene the Daye
followinge. Being thus pricked forwarde on he goeth to the Priest and
discloseth the hole matter. He arrayeth his Parishe, displayeth his
Banners, putteth on Copes and Surplas, and setteth the Carpenter foremost
as his Captaine, they digge awhile and anone they find a great Marble
havinge in it of black Flynt the Image of the Crucifixe so artificially
wroughte as if God himselfe (sayth myne Auteur) had framed it. Under the
right Arme of this Crucifixe thear was a small Image of the same Forme, a
litle Belle also, and a black Booke conteyninge the Text of the four
Evangelists. All this they signified to Tovi le Prude then Lord of the
Soyle, Standarde Bearer to the Kinge and his Chief Councelor, who came to
the place in great Hast and by the advice of his Gents lefte the smalle
cross in the Churche theare determyninge to bestow the greater in suche
Place as God should appointe. Forthewithe therefore he caused to be
yoked twelve red Oxen and so many white Kyne and layeth the Stone in a
Wayne myning if God so wille to cary it to Canterbyrye, but the Cattle
could not by any Force be compelled to draw thytherwarde. When he saw
that he changed his Mynde and bad theim dryve toward his House at
Readinge whearin he had great Delighte, but still the Wayne stode
immoveable notwithstandinge that the Oxen did thear best. At the Lengthe
he remembered a small House that he had begone to buyld at Waltham for
his Disporte and commanded them to make thytherward. Which words he had
no soner spoken but the Wayne of itselfe moved. Now in the way many
weare healed of many Infirmities; amongste the whiche threscore sixe
Parsons’ {18} vowed their labour towarde the Conveiance of this Crosse,
and weare the first Founders of Waltham Towne wheare was nothing before
but only a simple House for this Tovi to repose himself at when he came
thyther to hunte notwithstandinge that he had thereby divers Landes, as
Enfield, Edelmetun, Cetrehunt, Myms, and the hole Baronie that Goffrey of
Maundville the first of that name had. Now when the Crosse was broughte
thyther, Tovi commaunded it to be set up, and while one by Chaunce perced
it with a Nayle the Blood issued out of the Flinte in great Abundance.
Whereat Tovi beinge greatly amazed, fel downe and worshipped it promiseth
before it to manumittee {20} his Bondmen to bestow possession on such as
should deserve it.”
[Picture: Waltham Abbey one hundred years ago. (Dr. Hughson’s “Circuit
of London,” 1808)]
The cross gave its name to the place, and over a long series of years
attracted crowds of the devote, the maimed, and diseased to the place.
In 1192 the cross was covered with silver, but the figure of Christ was
left untouched by reason, it is surmised, of a remarkable incident that
had happened a few years previously. On that occasion, the crucifix
being under repair, Robert the Goldsmith, of St. Albans, removed the
circlet round the thigh, when all present were stricken blind for a
considerable time.
Harold’s Minster.
On the site of Tovi’s foundation Earl Harold, upon whom Waltham and vast
lands had been bestowed by Edward the Confessor, reared and endowed a
magnificent church, which he intended to rival in beauty and importance
King Edward’s abbey church at Westminster. The dean and twelve secular
Black canons who formed the ecclesiastical constitution of Harold’s
foundation, were amply provided for, each of the latter having a manor
and the dean six manors for his maintenance. In later times (1177) Henry
II., on the ground that the canons had grown wasteful and corrupt,
substituted for Harold’s foundation an Augustinian priory, then, seven
years later, raised this to the dignity of an Abbey, installing Walter de
Gaunt, of Oseney, as the first abbot.
Harold’s church was splendidly adorned, in a manner that suggests, as the
late Bishop Stubbs observes, that the founder had been influenced by
Eastern art. Brazen plates, gilt, were spread over the walls, the
capitals and bases of the massive pillars were curiously carved and
wreathed with the gilded metal; the altar was enriched with elaborate
ornaments, the furniture, reliquaries, and vestments were provided on a
liberal scale. Numerous relics, in addition to the miraculous crucifix,
formed part of the endowment. The consecration of the church probably
took place on May 3, 1060, the Feast of the Invention of the Holy Cross,
which became one of the fair days under the charter of Matilda.
Kinsinge, Archbishop of York, performed the ceremony of consecration,
assisted by most of the English bishops. King Edward and his queen
Edith, sister of Harold, and the flower of the nobility, were present.
It was here that, scarce six years later, Harold, on his return from
Stamford Bridge, had news of the Norman invasion. He stayed for the
night at his mansion in the park at Nazeing, still called Harold’s Park,
and on the morrow offered up prayers for his success in the Abbey. It is
recorded that the figure of the Saviour on the wondrous crucifix bowed
the head as if to express sorrow for his inevitable fate. He set out for
Senlac accompanied by two of the canons, who, if the omen were fulfilled,
were bidden to bring back with them the body of the founder. Harold’s
war-cry was “Holy Rood.” The canons, true to their trust, recovered the
king’s body, by the aid of Harold’s old love, Editha the “Swan-necked,”
and brought it to Waltham with all possible honours. Here the remains
were interred, being translated from time to time as alterations and
additions to the church necessitated (it was not finally completed until
1125), finding a final resting place near the great altar, about 140 feet
from the present east end of the church. Here a most beautiful and
imposing tomb was erected, but all that remains of this is a curious
piece of carved ironstone representing the face of a warrior, which,
after many vicissitudes, including its use as a fountain ornament, was
returned to the possession of the church a few years ago, and now reposes
on the tomb of Robert Smith in the chancel.
To the antiquary, the student, and the lover of all that is beautiful in
architecture, the ancient minster offers a boundless store of interest.
In the course of his scholarly observations upon the architecture and
history of the abbey church the late Professor Freeman says: “Barbarous
mutilations and hardly less barbarous additions have entirely destroyed
its character, as seen from without, and even within, both mediæval
alterations of the strangest kind and the accumulated enormities of more
recent days have gone far to ruin the general effect of the original
building. Still a large portion of the original interior remains
untouched; an interior deserving attentive study as one of the noblest
specimens of Northern Romanesque, and invested with a yet higher interest
if we may regard it as called into being by the taste and bounty of the
last of our native kings.”
The noble edifice was cruciform in plan, with a nave and aisles (all that
now remain), choir, and central tower. The spring of one of the great
arches upon which this latter stood, is plainly visible at the present
east end. This tower fell in 1552, doubtless owing to the destruction of
the choir, and the present western tower was erected about five years
later out of the fragments. The nave consists of seven bays, and is 109
feet long from east to west, by 55 feet wide, and from the floor to the
beautifully painted ceiling, the work of Sir E. J. Poynter, is a height
of 52 feet. Upon the great pillars that support the arches will be
noticed the spiral and chevron indenting, originally filled with chased
and gilt metal. In some places the rivet holes are still discernible.
The aisles were originally vaulted, and the triforium passage above was
lighted by the circular windows that will be noticed. There are three
tiers of arches: the nave or arcade, the triforium, and the clerestory.
The Rev. J. H. Stamp, in his excellent little history of Waltham, says of
the plan and design of the church that whilst the cruciform plan was
significant of Christ crucified, the twelve pillars represented the
apostles, and the three tiers of arches the Holy Trinity.
[Picture: The interior of the Abbey Church, Waltham. Drawn by Duncan
Moul]
The wonderful grandeur and nobility of the interior can well be
appreciated by standing just within the tower and viewing the “long-drawn
aisles” through the great western arch. This arch formed part of the
scheme of restoration and rebuilding which took place at the latter end
of the thirteenth century, when the original Norman doorway was removed
and a grand Decorated west front substituted. This had two turrets on
each side, terminating in octagonal pinnacles of fine proportions and
design, and a beautiful Decorated window appears to have been inserted
over the arch. Unfortunately, the present tower obscures much of this
thirteenth century work. With this scheme of rebuilding, which was
instigated by Abbot Reginald and carried out by his successors, Abbots
Hugh and Robert, is associated a curious and unfortunate defacement or
destruction of a portion of the beautiful Norman arcading. There will be
noticed on either side of the church, near the west end, a high Gothic
arch, sadly out of harmony with the remaining arcading. It is said that
the architect who was first engaged upon the restoration work was
demented, and set about transforming the architectural character of the
church. He removed the elegant filling-in of the triforium and cut away
the lower Norman arches, and after having thus mutilated two tiers of
arches on each side, began upon the third tier on the north side, but was
happily stopped in his crazy efforts by the interference of the abbot,
and his peremptory dismissal. It is to his successor that we owe the
beautiful western doorway and front. This restoration scheme also
included the adornment of the interior with beautiful frescoes, signs of
which are still slightly visible on one or two of the arches.
Relics and Monuments.
Within the tower of the church are preserved the old stocks and
whipping-post, together with the pillory, which formerly stood on the
site now occupied by the new municipal buildings. In the vestry are also
preserved a number of interesting relics, including a pilgrim’s bottle
and the massive blade of a battle-axe which, tradition avers, was
Harold’s.
There are many monuments and numerous interesting tablets and memorials.
Of the monuments the most noticeable is the tomb of Sir Edward Denny and
his wife Margaret, in the chancel. The knight is represented in armour
lying on his left side, the figure of his wife reclining below; their ten
children are carved in relief, in attitudes of prayer, upon the panel
beneath. This Edward Denny was the comrade of Spenser, the poet, and Sir
Philip Sidney, and the captor of the rebel Earl of Desmond.
Near by stands the effigy of Lady Elizabeth Greville, first cousin to
Lady Jane Grey, widow of Henry Denny (son of Sir Anthony Denny) and wife
of Sir Edward Greville, third son of the ancestor of the present Earl of
Warwick. This effigy is all that remains of an elegant tomb of
alabaster, which formerly stood to the north of the altar.
On the opposite side of the chancel, near the organ, stands the marble
tomb of Robert Smith, a wealthy seaman of the seventeenth century. The
magnificent choir which was so ruthlessly demolished by Henry VIII. at
the Dissolution contained, in addition to the tomb of the founder, the
handsome sarcophagi of Baron Hugh Nevil, Lord High Justice of England,
temp. Richard I.; Archdeacon Passelew, and numerous abbots, earls, and
knights.
There are three mural brasses on the south wall, one being to the memory
of Edward Stacey, one of the lay pensioners of the monastery at the time
of the Dissolution, and another to Thomas Colte, second son of Sir John
Colte, of Nether Hall, Roydon.
The remains of the old choir screen, a beautiful example of carpentry and
carving; the ancient Purbeck marble font; the handsome reredos, and the
fine rose window above; the marks of the chain that once held the great
Bible, on one of the pillars, and many other features are here to
interest the visitor. The handsome stained glass in the Rose window,
depicting the Creation, and the three lights under the arch were designed
by the late Sir Edward Burne-Jones.
Nor must the beautiful Lady Chapel (the only chapel remaining of five
that were originally attached to the church) be forgotten. This dates
its foundation from 1316, and is by some regarded as one of the richest
specimens of mediæval architecture in England. Its window tracery is
certainly very elegant, though this has undergone considerable
restoration. The interior was originally adorned with statuary and
frescoes, a painting of the Last Judgment occupying the east wall.
Traces of this ancient and curious representation are still discernible.
The remains of the old piscina are also still in existence. Of the crypt
beneath, Thomas Fuller, who, by the way, was for many years incumbent
here, quaintly speaks as being “the finest that I ever saw.”
The greatness of the Abbey.
Having feasted the eye and the mind on the many beautiful and interesting
features of the ancient fane, one may rest beneath the aged elm tree in
the churchyard, and meditate upon the circumstance that this magnificent
edifice is but a third portion of Harold’s minster, and that only a
fragment of the old monastery which grew up around it in mediæval times,
forming a vast congregation of stately buildings, now remains; that just
as the physical characteristics of the Abbey and its minster were vast
and important, so were its landed possessions, which stretched out far
and wide on all sides; that the immensity of its wealth was such that at
the time of the Dissolution the gross revenue amounted to £1,079 12s.
1d., representing about £15,000 at the present day; whilst the potency of
the abbots, who were mitred and sat in Parliament, was great, and the
splendour of their respective establishments was upon a generous scale.
Some of these abbots, of whom there were thirty in all, were great in the
best sense of the word, and exercised their potency for the good of the
Abbey and the community towards which they stood in the joint relation of
spiritual and temporal overlords.
A Feudal Abbot.
One of these particularly was a man of vigorous character and determined
spirit, who, “in asserting the rights and privileges of the monastery
during his rule, came into collision with parishioners, neighbours, pope,
and king.” First, differences appear to have arisen between the
parishioners and the abbot as to the former having right of access to the
central tower and bells, which they had enjoyed under Harold’s
foundation. The abbot accordingly shut out the people from this and the
choir (the monastic part of the church) by erecting a stone screen or
wall immediately behind the altar of the parish church (the present
nave). This wall is clearly observable from the outside beneath the Rose
window at the east end, and in this will be seen traces of two doorways
with which it was pierced to allow the dean or parish priest to enter and
minister to the people. There would seem to have been reprisals on the
part of the parishioners, for a little later they disputed the abbot’s
rights of grazing on the marsh, and, resorting to violence, severely
assaulted the keepers and killed the abbot’s horses. For this the
offenders suffered the double penalty of being heavily fined by the
justices of the King’s Bench and excommunicated by the abbot. The
latter, however, did not enforce either, and forgave the erring ones.
Next Abbot Simon was at war with the lord of the manor of Cheshunt,
Peter, Duke of Savoy, who claimed all the land west of the main stream of
the Lea—called the King’s stream—whilst the abbot contended that his
jurisdiction extended to the smaller stream half a mile further west.
The lawsuit which ensued was, as old Fuller says, “as long lived as any
in England,” by reason of “the greatness of the clients”; but it was
finally concluded in favour of the abbot. This occurred in 1248, and
three years later the doughty abbot was setting the pope at defiance by
protesting against the persecution, oppression, and robbery of the
conventual churches by the bishops and legates. Twice also Abbot Simon
successfully resisted the extortionate demands of the king, and
stubbornly refused to enrich the royal treasury at the expense of the
monastery.
I am afraid I have rather digressed from the main purpose of this little
work in relating some of the deeds of this sturdy abbot, but I think the
brief relation of these may be of some interest as an illustration of the
social and religious conditions of Waltham in mediæval times and of the
wonderful power wielded by these old ecclesiastical potentates.
A Conventual Relic.
Now to resume the broken thread. The remaining fragment of the
conventual buildings to which I have alluded above consists of a
beautiful little chamber, often spoken of as “an architectural gem,”
which stands in the Abbey gardens. It is locally known by the
undignified appellation of the “potato cellar,” due to its irreverent use
in modern times. It consists of a small longitudinal apartment, with a
beautifully groined ceiling and quadripartite vaulting. It is 29 feet
long, running north and south, and has two doorways, one of which is
blocked up. It is considered to have been either the fratry or an
antechamber to the abbot’s mansion, in which the monks assembled
preparatory to the procession to the church.
One passes from the churchyard to the market-place—another interesting
corner of the old town—by an ancient lych-gate, adjacent to the Harp Inn,
which is peculiarly interesting as being probably the oldest existing
relic of domestic architecture directly connected with the Abbey, and has
from very early times formed the main entrance to the church.
Turning sharp to the left, into Sun Street, one is soon in the old main
road that runs from London, by Walthamstow, Chingford, and Sewardstone,
to Nazeing, Roydon, etc. To the left, round by the New Inn, the fine old
wall of the Abbey gardens comes into view, and midway along its extent
will be noticed the sign of the cross and a lozenge (probably a sign
indicative of the Trinity) inserted in black brick. The remains of the
moat, which, with the mill stream, completely surrounded the Abbey, will
also be seen.
Retracing our steps towards London, a few yards beyond the entry of Sun
Street, will be noticed an old house jutting upon the street, with stucco
and “roughcast” exterior, the entrance to which is by a gate in the
adjoining garden wall. This was the home of John Foxe, the
martyrologist, and here he wrote the famous “Book of Martyrs.” It is
said that Cranmer also occupied this house when resident in Waltham. Its
interior presents many interesting features. In the garden is a tulip
tree, which is probably a descendant of a fine specimen of this arboreal
rarity, which flourished for centuries in the old Abbey gardens. This
tree is said to have been one of the largest and finest of its kind in
all England. Its fame is perpetuated by two finely carved chairs, made
out of the wood of the old tree, which stand within the sacrarium of the
Abbey church.
[Picture: The home of Foxe the martyrologist at Waltham]