_A grand Solemnity, called Natche, in Honour of the King's Son,
performed.--The Processions and other Ceremonies, during the first day,
described.--The Manner of passing the Night at the King's
House.--Continuation of the Solemnity, the next Day.--Conjectures about
the Nature of it.--Departure from Tongataboo, and Arrival at
Eooa.--Account of that Island, and Transactions there_.
We were now ready to sail, but the wind being easterly, we had not
sufficient day-light to turn through the narrows, either with the
morning, or with the evening flood, the one falling out too early, and
the other too late. So that, without a leading wind, we were under a
necessity of waiting two or three days.
I took the opportunity of this delay to be present at a public
solemnity, to which the king had invited us, when we went last to visit
him, and which, he had informed us, was to be performed on the 8th. With
a view to this, he and all the people of note quitted our neighbourhood
on the 7th, and repaired to Mooa, where the solemnity was to be
exhibited. A party of us followed them the next morning. We understood,
from what Poulaho had said to us, that his son and heir was now to be
initiated into certain privileges, amongst which was, that of eating
with his father, an honour he had not, as yet, been admitted to.
We arrived at Mooa about eight o'clock, and found the king, with a large
circle of attendants sitting before him, within an inclosure so small
and dirty, as to excite my wonder that any such could be found in that
neighbourhood. They were intent upon their usual morning occupation, in
preparing a bowl of _kava_. As this was no liquor for us, we walked out
to visit some of our friends, and to observe what preparations might be
making for the ceremony, which was soon to begin. About ten o'clock, the
people began to assemble in a large area, which is before the _malaee_,
or great house, to which we had been conducted the first time we visited
Mooa. At the end of a road, that opens into this area, stood some men
with spears and clubs, who kept constantly reciting or chanting short
sentences in a mournful tone, which conveyed some idea of distress, and
as if they called for something. This was continued about an hour; and,
in the mean time, many people came down the road, each of them bringing
a yam, tied to the middle of a pole, which they laid down before the
persons who continued repeating the sentences. While this was going on,
the king and prince arrived, and seated themselves upon the area; and we
were desired to sit down by them, but to pull off our hats, and to untie
our hair. The bearers of the yams being all come in, each pole was taken
up between two men, who carried it over their shoulders. After forming
themselves into companies of ten or twelve persons each, they marched
across the place with a quick pace; each company headed by a man bearing
a club or spear, and guarded on the right by several others armed with
different weapons. A man carrying a living pigeon on a perch, closed the
rear, of the procession, in which about two hundred and fifty persons
walked.
Omai was desired by me to ask the chief, to what place the yams were to
be thus carried with so much solemnity? but, as he seemed unwilling to
give us the information we wanted, two or three of us followed the
procession contrary to his inclination. We found that they stopped
before a _morai_ or _fiatooka_ of one house standing upon a mount, which
was hardly a quarter of a mile from the place where they first
assembled. Here we observed them depositing the yams, and making them up
into bundles; but for what purpose we could not learn. And, as our
presence seemed to give them uneasiness, we left them and returned to
Poulaho, who told us we might amuse ourselves by walking about, as
nothing would be done for some time. The fear of losing any part of the
ceremony prevented our being long absent. When we returned to the king,
he desired me to order the boat's crew not to stir from the boat; for,
as every thing would very soon be _taboo_, if any of our people, or of
their own, should be found walking about, they would be knocked down
with clubs, nay _mateed_, that is, killed. He also acquainted us, that
we could not be present at the ceremony, but that we should be conducted
to a place, where we might see every thing that passed. Objections were
made to our dress. We were told, that, to qualify us to be present, it
was necessary that we should be naked as low as the breast, with our
hats off, and our hair untied. Omai offered to conform to these
requisites, and began to strip; other objections were then started; so
that the exclusion was given to him equally with ourselves.
I did not much like this restriction, and, therefore, stole out to see
what might now be going forward. I found very few people stirring,
except those dressed to attend the ceremony; some of whom had in their
hands small poles about four feet long, and to the underpart of these
were fastened two or three other sticks; not bigger than one's finger,
and about six inches in length. These men were going toward the _morai_
just mentioned. I took the same road, and was several times stopped by
them, all crying out _taboo_. However, I went forward without much
regarding them, till I came in sight of the _morai_, and of the people
who were sitting before it. I was now urged very strongly to go back,
and, not knowing what might be the consequence of a refusal, I complied.
I had observed, that the people who carried the poles passed this
_morai_, or what I may as well call temple; and guessing from this
circumstance that something was transacting beyond it, which might be
worth looking at, I had thoughts of advancing by making a round for this
purpose; but I was so closely watched by three men, that I could not put
my design in execution. In order to shake these fellows off, I returned
to the _malaee_, where I had left the king, and from thence made an
elopement a second time; but I instantly met with the same three men, so
that it seemed as if they had been ordered to watch my motions. I paid
no regard to what they said or did, till I came within sight of the
king's principal _fiatooka_ or _morai_, which I have already described,
before which a great number of men were sitting, being the same persons
whom I had just before seen pass by the other _morai_, from which this
was but a little distant. Observing that I could watch the proceedings
of this company from the king's plantation, I repaired thither very much
to the satisfaction of those who attended me.
As soon as I got in, I acquainted the gentlemen who had come with me
from the ships, with what I had seen; and we took a proper station to
watch the result. The number of people at the _fiatooka_ continued to
increase for some time; and, at length, we could see them quit their
sitting-posture, and march off in procession. They walked in pairs, one
after another, every pair carrying between them one of the small poles
above-mentioned on their shoulders. We were told, that the small pieces
of sticks fastened to the poles were yams; so that probably they were
meant to represent this root emblematically. The hindmost man of each
couple, for the most part, placed one of his hands to the middle of the
pole, as if, without this additional support, it were not strong enough
to carry the weight that hung to it, and under which they all seemed to
bend as they walked. This procession consisted of one hundred and eight
pairs, and all or most of them men of rank. They came close by the fence
behind which we stood, so that we had a full view of them.
Having waited here till they had all passed, we then repaired to
Poulaho's house, and saw him going out. We could not be allowed to
follow him, but were forthwith conducted to the place allotted to us,
which was behind a fence, adjoining to the area of the fiatooka, where
the yams had been deposited in the forenoon. As we were not the only
people who were excluded from being publicly present at this ceremony,
but allowed to peep from behind the curtain, we had a good deal of
company; and I observed, that all the other inclosures round the place
were filled with people. And yet all imaginable care seemed to be taken,
that they should see as little as possible; for the fences had not only
been repaired that morning, but in many places raised higher than
common, so that the tallest man could not look over them. To remedy this
defect in our station; we took the liberty to cut holes in the fence
with our knives, and by this means we could see pretty distinctly every
thing that was transacting on the other side.
On our arrival at our station, we found two or three hundred people
sitting on the grass, near the end of the road that opened into the area
of the _morai_, and the number continually increased by others joining
them. At length, arrived a few men carrying some small poles, and
branches or leaves of the cocoa-nut tree; and, upon their first
appearance, an old man seated himself in the road and, with his face
toward them, pronounced a long oration in a serious tone. He then
retired back, and the others advancing to the middle of the area, began
to erect a small shed, employing for that purpose the materials
above-mentioned. When they had finished their work, they all squatted
down for a moment before it, then rose up, and retired to the rest of
the company. Soon after came Poulaho's son, preceded by four or five
men, and they seated themselves a little aside from the shed, and rather
behind it. After them, appeared twelve or fourteen women of the first
rank, walking slowly in pairs, each pair carrying between them a narrow
piece of white cloth extended, about two or three yards in length. These
marched up to the prince, squatted down before him, and, having wrapped
some of the pieces of the cloth they had brought round his body, they
rose up, and retired in the same order to some distance on his left, and
there seated themselves. Poulaho himself soon made his appearance,
preceded by four men, who walked two and two abreast, and sat down on
his son's left hand, about twenty paces from him. The young prince then
quitting his first position, went and sat down under the shed with, his
attendants; and a considerable number more placed themselves on the
grass before this royal canopy. The prince himself sat facing the
people, with his back to the _morai_. This being done, three companies,
of ten or a dozen men in each, started up from amongst the large crowd a
little after each other, and running hastily to the opposite side of the
area, sat down for a few seconds; after which they returned in the same
manner to their former stations. To them succeeded two men, each of whom
held a small green branch in his hand, who got up and approached the
prince, sitting down for a few seconds three different times as they
advanced; and then, turning their backs, retired in the same manner,
inclining their branches to each other as they sat. In a little time,
two more repeated this ceremony.
The grand procession which I had seen march off from the other _morai_,
now began to come in. To judge of the circuit they had made from the
time they had been absent, it must have been pretty large. As they
entered the area, they marched up to the right of the shed, and, having
prostrated themselves on the grass, deposited their pretended burthens
(the poles above-mentioned), and faced round to the prince. They then
rose up, and retired in the same order, closing their hands, which they
held before them, with the most serious aspect, and seated themselves
along the front of the area. During all the time that this numerous band
were coming in, and depositing their poles, three men who sat under the
shed with the prince, continued pronouncing separate sentences in a
melancholy tone. After this, a profound silence ensued for a little
time, and then a man, who sat in the front of the area, began an oration
(or prayer), during which, at several different times, he went and broke
one of the poles, which had been brought in by those who had walked in
procession. When he had ended, the people sitting before the shed
separated, to make a lane, through which the prince and his attendants
passed, and the assembly broke up.
Some of our party, satisfied with what they had already seen, now
returned to the ships; but I, and two or three more of the officers,
remained at Mooa to see the conclusion of the solemnity, which was not
to be till the next day, being desirous of omitting no opportunity,
which might afford any information about the religious or the political
institutions of this people. The small sticks or poles, which had been
brought into the area by those who walked in procession, being left
lying on the ground, after the crowd had dispersed, I went and examined
them. I found, that to the middle of each, two or three small sticks
were tied, as has been related. Yet we had been repeatedly told by the
natives, who stood near us, that they were young yams, insomuch that
some of our gentlemen believed them, rather than their own eyes. As I
had the demonstration of my senses to satisfy me, that they were not
real yams, it is clear, that we ought to have understood them, that they
were only the artificial representations of these roots.
Our supper was got ready about seven o'clock. It consisted of fish and
yams. We might have had pork also, but we did not choose to kill a large
hog, which the king had given to us for that purpose. He supped with us,
and drank pretty freely of brandy and water, so that he went to bed with
a sufficient dose. We passed the night in the same house with him and
several of his attendants.
About one or two o'clock in the morning they waked, and conversed for
about an hour, and then went to sleep again. All, but Poulaho himself,
rose at day-break, and went, I know not whither. Soon after a woman, one
of those who generally attended upon the chief, came in, and enquired
where he was. I pointed him out to her, and she immediately sat down by
him, and began the same operation, which Mr Anderson had seen practised
upon Futtafaihe, tapping of beating gently, with her clinched fists, on
his thighs. This, instead of prolonging his sleep, as was intended, had
the contrary effect; however, though he awaked, he continued to lie
down.
Omai and I now went to visit the prince, who had parted from us early in
the evening. For he did not lodge with the king, but in apartments of
his own, or at least such as had been allotted to him at some distance
from his father's house. We found him with a circle of boys or youths
about his own age, sitting before him, and an old woman and an old man,
who seemed to have the care of him, sitting behind. There were others,
both men and women, employed about their necessary affairs in different
departments, who probably belonged to his household.
From the prince we returned to the king. By this time he had got up, and
had a crowded circle before him, composed chiefly of old men. While a
large bowl of _kava_ was preparing, a baked hog and yarns, smoking hot,
were brought in; the greatest part of which fell to our share, and was
very acceptable to the boat's crew; for these people eat very little in
a morning, especially the _kava_-drinkers. I afterward walked out, and
visited several other chiefs, and found that all of them were taking
their morning draught, or had already taken it. Returning to the king, I
found him asleep in a small retired hut, with two women tapping on his
breech. About eleven o'clock he arose again, and then some fish and
yams, which tasted as if they had been stewed in cocoa-nut milk, were
brought to him. Of these he eat a large portion, and lay down once more
to sleep. I now left him, and carried to the prince a present of cloth,
beads, and other articles, which I had brought with me from the ship for
the purpose. There was a sufficient quantity of cloth to make him a
complete suit, and he was immediately decked out with it. Proud of his
dress, he first went to shew himself to his father, and then conducted
me to his mother, with whom were about ten or a dozen other women of a
respectable appearance. Here the prince changed his apparel, and made me
a present of two pieces of the cloth manufactured in the island. By this
time it was past noon, when, by appointment, I repaired to the palace to
dinner. Several of our gentlemen had returned this morning from the
ships, and we were all invited to the feast, which was presently served
up, and consisted of two pigs and yams. I roused the drowsy monarch to
partake of what he had provided for our entertainment. In the mean time,
two mullets, and some shellfish, were brought to him, as I supposed, for
his separate portion. But he joined it to our fare, sat down with us,
and made a hearty meal.
When dinner was over, we were told that the ceremony would soon begin,
and were strictly enjoined not to walk out. I had resolved, however, to
peep no longer from behind the curtain, but to mix with the actors
themselves, if possible. With this view, I stole out from the
plantation, and walked toward the _morai_, the scene of the solemnity. I
was several times desired to go back by people whom I met, but I paid no
regard to them, and they suffered me to pass on. When I arrived at the
_morai_, I found a number of men seated on the side of the area, on
each side of the road that leads up to it. A few were sitting on the
opposite side of the area, and two men in the middle of it, with their,
faces turned to the _morai_. When I got into the midst of the first
company, I was desired to sit down, which I accordingly did. Where I
sat, there were lying a number of small bundles or parcels, composed of
cocoa-nut leaves, and tied to sticks made into the form of hand-barrows.
All the information I could get about them was, that they were _taboo_.
Our number kept continually increasing, every one coming from the same
quarter. From time to time, one or another of the company turned himself
to those who were coming to join us, and made a short speech, in which I
could remark that the word _arekee_, that is, king, was generally
mentioned. One man said something that produced bursts of hearty
laughter from all the crowd; others of the speakers met with public
applause. I was several times desired to leave the place, and, at last,
when they found that I would not stir, after some seeming consultation,
they applied to me to uncover my shoulders as theirs were. With this
request I complied, and then they seemed to be no longer uneasy at my
presence.
I sat a full hour, without any thing more going forward, beside what I
have mentioned. At length the prince, the women, and the king, all came
in, as they had done the day before. The prince being placed under the
shed, after his father's arrival, two men, each carrying a piece of mat,
came repeating something seriously, and put them about him. The
assembled people now began their operations; and first, three companies
ran backward and forward across the area, as described in the account of
the proceedings of the former day. Soon after, the two men, who sat in
the middle of the area, made a short speech or prayer, and then the
whole body, amongst whom I had my place, started up, and ran and seated
themselves before the shed under which the prince, and three or four
men, were sitting. I was now partly under the management of one of the
company, who seemed very assiduous to serve me. By his means, I was
placed in such a situation, that if I had been allowed to make use of my
eyes, nothing that passed could have escaped me. But it was necessary to
sit with down-cast looks, and demure as maids.
Soon after the procession came in, as on the day before; each two
persons bearing on their shoulders a pole, round the middle of which, a
cocoa-nut leaf was plaited. These were deposited with ceremonies similar
to those observed on the preceding day. This first procession was
followed by a second; the men composing which, brought baskets, such as
are usually employed by this people to carry provisions in, and made of
palm leaves. These were followed, by a third procession, in which were
brought different kinds of small fish, each fixed at the end of a forked
stick. The baskets were carried up to an old man, whom I took to be the
chief priest, and who sat on the prince's right hand, without the shed.
He held each in his hand, while he made a short speech or prayer, then
laid it down, and called for another, repeating the same words as
before; and thus he went through the whole number of baskets. The fish
were presented, one by one, on the forked sticks, as they came in, to
two men, who sat on the left, and who, till now, held green branches in
their hands. The first fish they laid down on their right, and the
second on their left. When the third was presented, a stout-looking man,
who sat behind the other two, reached his arm over between them, and
made a snatch at it; as also did the other two at the very same time.
Thus they seemed to contend for every fish that was presented; but as
there were two hands against one, besides the advantage of situation,
the man behind got nothing but pieces; for he never quitted his bold,
till the fish was torn out of his hand, and what little remained in it
he shook out behind him. The others laid what they got on the right and
left alternately. At length, either by accident or design, the man
behind got possession of a whole fish, without either of the other two
so much as touching it. At this the word _mareeai_, which signifies
_very good_ or _well done_, was uttered in a low voice throughout the
whole crowd. It seemed that he had performed now all that was expected
from him, for he made no attempt upon the few fish that came after.
These fish, as also the baskets, were all delivered, by the persons who
brought them in, sitting; and, in the same order and manner, the small
poles, which the first procession carried, had been laid upon the
ground.
The last procession being closed, there was some speaking or praying by
different persons. Then, on some signal being given, we all started up,
ran several paces to the left, and sat down with our backs to the
prince, and the few who remained with him; I was desired not to look
behind me. However, neither this injunction nor the remembrance of Lot's
wife, discouraged me from facing about. I now saw that the prince had
turned his face to the _morai_. But this last movement had brought so
many people between him and me, that I could not perceive what was
doing. I was afterward assured, that, at this very time, the prince was
admitted to the high honour of eating with his father, which, till now,
had never been permitted to him; a piece of roasted yam being presented
to each of them for this purpose; This was the more probable, as we had
been told before-hand, that this was to happen during the solemnity, and
as all the people turned their backs to them at this time, which they
always do when their monarch eats.
After some little time, we all faced about, and formed a semicircle
before the prince, leaving a large open space between us. Presently
there appeared some men coming toward us, two and two, bearing large
sticks or poles upon their shoulders, making a noise that might be
called singing, and waving their hands as they advanced. When they had
got close up to us, they made a shew of walking very fast, without
proceeding a single step. Immediately after, three or four men started
up from the crowd, with large sticks in their hands, who ran toward
those newcomers. The latter instantly threw down the poles from their
shoulders, and scampered off; and the others attacked the poles, and,
having beat them most unmercifully, returned to their places. As the
pole-bearers ran off, they gave the challenge that is usual here in
wrestling; and, not long after, a number of stout fellows came from the
same quarter, repeating the challenge as they advanced. These were
opposed by a party who came from the opposite side almost at the same
instant. The two parties paraded about the area for a few minutes, and
then retired, each to their own side. After this, there were wrestling
and boxing-matches for about half an hour. Then two men seated
themselves before the prince, and made speeches, addressed, as I
thought, entirely to him. With this the solemnity ended, and the whole
assembly broke up.
I now went and examined the several baskets which had been presented; a
curiosity that I was not allowed before to indulge, because every thing
was then _taboo_. But the solemnity being now over, they became simply
what I found them to be, empty baskets. So that, whatever they were
supposed to contain, was emblematically represented. And so, indeed, was
every other thing which had been brought in procession, except the fish.
We endeavoured in vain to find out the meaning, not only of the ceremony
in general, which is called _Natche_, but of its different parts. We
seldom got any other answer to our enquiries, but _taboo_, a word which,
I have before observed, is applied to many other things. But as the
prince was evidently the principal person concerned in it, and as we had
been told by the king ten days before the celebration of the _Natche_,
that the people would bring in yams for him and his son to eat together,
and as he even described some part of the ceremony, we concluded, from
what he had then said, and from what we now saw, that an oath of
allegiance, if I may so express myself, or solemn promise, was on this
occasion made to the prince, as the immediate successor to the regal
dignity, to stand by him, and to furnish him with the several articles
that were here emblematically represented. This seems the more probable,
as all the principal people of the island, whom we had ever seen,
assisted in the processions. But, be this as it may, the whole was
conducted with a great deal of mysterious solemnity; and that there was
a mixture of religion in the institution was evident, not only from the
place where it was performed, but from the manner of performing it. Our
dress and deportment had never been called in question upon any former
occasion whatever. Now, it was expected that we should be uncovered as
low as the waist; that our hair should be loose, and flowing over our
shoulders; that we should, like themselves, sit cross-legged; and, at
times, in the most humble posture, with down-cast eyes, and hands locked
together; all which requisites were most devoutly observed by the whole
assembly. And, lastly, every one was excluded from the solemnity; but
the principal people, and those who assisted in the celebration. All
these circumstances were to me a sufficient testimony, that, upon this
occasion, they consider themselves as acting under the immediate
inspection of a Supreme Being;
The present _Natche_ may be considered, from the above account of it,
as merely figurative. For the small quantity of yams, which we saw the
first day, could not be intended as a general contribution; and, indeed,
we were given to understand, that they were a portion consecrated to the
_Otooa_, or Divinity. But we were informed, that, in about three months,
there would be performed, on the same account, a far more important and
grander solemnity; on which occasion, not only the tribute of
Tongataboo, but that of Hepaee, Vavaoo, and of all the other islands;
would be brought to the chief, and confirmed more awfully, by
sacrificing ten human victims from amongst the inferior sort of people.
A horrid solemnity indeed! and which is a most significant instance of
the influence of gloomy and ignorant superstition, over the minds of one
of the most benevolent and humane nations upon earth. On enquiring into
the reasons of so barbarous a practice, they only said, that it was a
necessary part of the _Natche_, and that, if they omitted it, the Deity
would certainly destroy their king.
Before the assembly broke up, the day was far spent; and as we were at
some distance from the ships, and had an intricate navigation to go
through, we were in haste to set out from Mooa. When I took leave of
Poulaho, he pressed me much to stay till the next day, to be present at
a funeral ceremony. The wife of Mareewagee, who was mother-in-law to the
king, had lately died, and her corpse had, on account of the _Natche_,
been carried on board a canoe that lay in the _lagoon_. Poulaho told me,
that, as soon as he had paid the last offices to her, he would attend me
to Eooa, but, if I did not wait, he would follow me thither. I
understood at the same time, that, if it had not been for the death of
this woman, most of the chiefs would have accompanied us to that island,
where, it seems, all of them have possessions. I would gladly have
waited to see this ceremony also, had not the tide been now favourable
for the ships to get through the narrows. The wind besides, which, for
several days past, had been very boisterous, was now moderate and
settled, and to have lost this opportunity, might have detained us a
fortnight longer. But what was decisive against my waiting, we
understood that the funeral ceremonies would last five days, which was
too long a time, as the ships lay in such a situation, that I could not
get to sea at pleasure. I, however, assured the king, that, if we did
not sail, I should certainly visit him again the next day. And so we all
took leave of him, and set out for the ships, where we arrived about
eight o'clock in the evening.
I had forgot to mention, that Omai was present at this second day's
ceremony as well as myself, but we were not together, nor did I know
that he was there, till it was almost over. He afterward told me, that,
as soon as the king saw that I had stolen out from the plantation, he
sent several people, one after another, to desire me to come back.
Probably, these messengers were not admitted to the place where I was,
for I saw nothing of them. At last, intelligence was brought to the
chief, that I had actually stripped, in conformity to their custom; and
then he told Omai, that he might be present also, if he would comply
with all necessary forms. Omai had no objection, as nothing was required
of him, but to conform to the custom of his own country. Accordingly, he
was furnished with a proper dress, and appeared at the ceremony as one
of the natives. It is likely, that one reason of our being excluded at
first, was an apprehension, that we would not submit to the requisites
to qualify us to assist.
While I was attending the _Natche_ at Mooa, I ordered the horses, bull
and cow, and goats, to be brought thither, thinking that they would be
safer there, under the eyes of the chiefs, than at a place that would
be, in a manner, deserted, the moment after our departure. Besides the
above-mentioned animals, we left with our friends here, a young boar,
and three young sows, of the English breed. They were exceedingly
desirous of them, judging, no doubt, that they would greatly improve
their own breed, which is rather small. Feenou also got from us two
rabbits, a buck and a doe; and, before we sailed, we were told that
young ones had been already produced. If the cattle succeed, of which I
make no doubt, it will be a vast acquisition to these islands; and as
Tongataboo is a fine level country, the horses cannot but be useful.
On the 10th, at eight o'clock in the morning, we weighed anchor, and,
with a steady gale at S.E., turned through the channel, between the
small isles called Makkahaa and Monooafai, it being much wider than the
channel between the last-mentioned island and Pangimodoo. The flood set
strong in our favour, till we were the length of the channel leading up
to the _lagoon_, where the flood from the eastward meets that from the
west. This, together with the indraught of the _lagoon_, and of the
shoals before it, causeth strong ripplings and whirlpools. To add to
these dangers, the depth of water in the channel exceeds the length of a
cable; so that there is no anchorage, except close to the rocks, where
we meet with forty and forty-five fathoms, over a bottom of dark sand.
But then, here, a ship would be exposed to the whirlpools. This
frustrated the design which I had formed, of coming to an anchor as soon
as we were through the narrows, and of making an excursion to see the
funeral. I chose rather to lose that ceremony, than to leave the ships
in a situation in which I did not think them safe. We continued to ply
to windward, between the two tides, without either gaining or losing an
inch, till near high water, when, by a favourable slant, we got into the
eastern tide's influence. We expected, there, to find the ebb to run
strong to the eastward in our favour, but it proved so inconsiderable,
that, at any other time, it would not have been noticed. This informed
us, that most of the water which flows into the _lagoon_, comes from the
N.W., and returns the same way. About five in the afternoon, finding
that we could not get to sea before it was dark, I came to an anchor,
under the shore of Tongataboo, in forty-five fathoms water, and about
two cables length from the reef, that runs along that side of the
island. The Discovery dropped anchor under our stern; but before the
anchor took hold, she drove off the bank, and did not recover it till
after midnight.
We remained at this station till eleven o'clock the next day, when we
weighed, and plyed to the eastward. But it was ten at night before we
weathered the east end of the island, and were enabled to stretch away
for Middleburgh, or Eooa, (as it is called by the inhabitants,) where we
anchored, at eight o'clock in the next morning, in forty fathoms water,
over a bottom of sand, interspersed with coral rocks; the extremes of
the island extending from N. 40° E., to S. 22° W.; the high land of
Eooa, S. 45° E.; and Tongataboo, from N. 70° W., to N. 19° W., distant
about half a mile from the shore, being nearly the same place where I
had my station in 1773, and then named by me, _English Road_.
We had no sooner anchored, than Taoofa, the chief, and several other
natives, visited as on board, and seemed to rejoice much at our arrival.
This Taoofa[172] had been my _Tayo_, when I was here, during my last
voyage; consequently, we were not strangers to each other. In a little
time, I went ashore with him, in search of fresh water, the procuring of
which was the chief object that brought me to Eooa. I had been told at
Tongataboo, that there was here a stream, running from the hills into
the sea; but this was not the case now. I was first conducted to a
brackish spring, between low and high water mark, amongst rocks, in the
cove where we landed, and where no one would ever have thought of
looking for what we wanted. However, I believe the water of this spring
might be good, were it possible to take it up before the tide mixes with
it. Finding that we did not like this, our friends took us a little way
into the island, where, in a deep chasm, we found very good water;
which, at the expence of some time and trouble, might be conveyed down
to the shore, by means of spouts or troughs, that could be made with
plantain leaves, and the stem of the tree. But, rather than to undertake
that tedious task, I resolved to rest contented with the supply the
ships had got at Tongataboo.
[Footnote 172: In the account of Captain Cook's former voyage, he calls
the only chief he then met with, at this place, _Tioony_.--D.]
Before I returned on board, I set on foot a trade for hogs and yams. Of
the former, we could procure but few; but of the latter, plenty. I put
ashore, at this island, the ram and two ewes, of the Cape of Good Hope
breed of sheep, entrusting them to the care of Taoofa, who seemed proud
of his charge. It was fortunate, perhaps, that Mareewagee, to whom I had
given them, as before mentioned, slighted the present. Eooa not having,
as yet, got any dogs upon it, seems to be a properer place than
Tongataboo for the rearing of sheep.
As we lay at anchor, this island bore a very different aspect from any
we had lately seen, and formed a most beautiful landscape. It is higher
than any we had passed since leaving New Zealand, (as Kao may justly be
reckoned an immense rock,) and from its top, which is almost flat,
declines very gently toward the sea. As the other isles of this cluster
are level, the eye can discover nothing but the trees that cover them;
but here the land, rising gently upward, presents us with an extensive
prospect, where groves of trees are only interspersed at irregular
distances, in beautiful disorder, and the rest covered with grass. Near
the shore, again, it is quite shaded with various trees, amongst which
are the habitations of the natives; and to the right of our station, was
one of the most extensive groves of cocoa-palms we had ever seen.
The 13th, in the afternoon, a party of us made an excursion to the
highest part of the island, which was a little to the right of our
ships, in order to have a full view of the country. About half way up,
we crossed a deep valley, the bottom and sides of which, though composed
of hardly any thing but coral rock, were clothed with trees. We were now
about two or three hundred feet above the level of the sea, and yet,
even here, the coral was perforated into all the holes and inequalities
which usually diversify the surface of this substance within the reach
of the tide. Indeed, we found the same coral till we began to approach
the summits of the highest hills; and it was remarkable, that these were
chiefly composed of a yellowish, soft, sandy stone. The soil there, is,
in general, a reddish clay, which, in many places, seemed to be very
deep. On the most elevated part of the whole island, we found a round
platform, or mount of earth, supported by a wall of coral stones; to
bring which to such a height, must have cost much labour. Our guides
told us, that this mount had been erected by order of their chief; and
that they, sometimes, meet there to drink/_kava_. They called it
_etchee_; by which name, an erection which we had seen at Tongataboo, as
already mentioned, was distinguished. Not many paces from it, was a
spring, of excellent water; and, about a mile lower down, a running
stream, which, we were told, found its way to the sea when the rains
were copious. We also met with water in many little holes; and, no
doubt, great plenty might be found by digging.
From the elevation to which we had ascended, we had a full view of the
whole island, except a part of the south point. The S.E. side, from
which the highest hills we were now upon, are not far distant, rises
with very great inequalities, immediately from the sea, so that the
plains and meadows, of which there are here some of great extent, lie
all on the N.W. side; and as they are adorned with tufts of trees,
intermixed with plantations, they form a very beautiful landscape in
every point of view. While I was surveying this delightful prospect, I
could not help flattering myself with the pleasing idea, that some
future navigator may, from the same station, behold these meadows
stocked with cattle, brought to these islands by the ships of England;
and that the completion of this single benevolent purpose, independently
of all other considerations, would sufficiently mark to posterity, that
our voyages had not been useless to the general interests of humanity.
Besides the plants common on the other neighbouring islands, we found,
on the height, a species of _acrosticum, melastoma_, and fern tree, with
a few other ferns and plants not common lower down.
Our guides informed us, that all, or most of the land, on this island,
belonged to the great chiefs of Tongataboo, and that the inhabitants
were only tenants or vassals to them. Indeed, this seemed to be the case
at all the other neighbouring isles, except Annamooka, where there were
some chiefs, who seemed to act with some kind of independence. Omai, who
was a great favourite with Feenou, and these people in general, was
tempted with the offer of being made chief of this island, if he would
have staid amongst them; and it is not clear to me, that he would not
have been glad to stay, if the scheme had met with my approbation. I own
I did disapprove of it, but not because I thought that Omai would do
better for himself in his own native isle.
On returning from my country expedition, we were informed that a party
of the natives had, in the circle where our people traded, struck one of
their own countrymen with a club, which laid bare, or as others said,
fractured his skull, and then broke his thigh with the same, when our
men interposed. He had no signs of life when carried to a neighbouring
house, but afterward recovered a little. On my asking the reason of so
severe a treatment, we were informed, that he had been discovered in a
situation rather indelicate, with a woman who was _taboo'd_. We,
however, understood, that she was no otherwise _taboo'd_, than by
belonging to another person, and rather superior in rank to her gallant.
From this circumstance we had an opportunity of observing how these
people treat such infidelities. But the female sinner has, by far, the
smaller share of punishment for her misdemeanor, as they told us that
she would only receive a slight beating.
The next morning, I planted a pine-apple, and sowed the seeds of melons
and other vegetables, in the chief's plantation. I had some
encouragement, indeed, to flatter myself, that my endeavours of this
kind would not be fruitless; for, this day, there was served up at my
dinner, a dish of turnips, being the produce of the seeds I had left
here during my last voyage.
I had fixed upon the 15th for sailing, till Taoofa pressed me to stay a
day or two longer, to receive a present he had prepared for me. This
reason, and the daily expectation of seeing some of our friends from
Tongataboo, induced me to defer my departure.
Accordingly, the next day I received the chiefs present, consisting of
two small heaps of yams, and some fruit, which seemed to be collected by
a kind of contribution, as at the other isles. On this occasion, most of
the people of the island had assembled at the place; and, as we had
experienced on such numerous meetings amongst their neighbours, gave us
not a little trouble to prevent them from pilfering whatever they could
lay their hands upon. We were entertained with cudgelling, wrestling,
and boxing-matches; and, in the latter, both male and female combatants
exhibited. It was intended to have finished the shew with the _bomai_,
or night dance, but an accident either put a total stop to it, or, at
least, prevented any of us from staying ashore to see it. One of my
people, walking a very little way, was surrounded by twenty or thirty of
the natives, who knocked him down, and stripped him of every thing he
had on his back. On hearing of this, I immediately seized two canoes,
and a large hog, and insisted on Taoofa's causing the clothes to be
restored, and on the offenders being delivered up to me. The chief
seemed much concerned at what had happened, and forthwith took the
necessary steps to satisfy me. This affair so alarmed the assembled
people, that most of them fled. However, when they found that I took no
other measures to revenge the insult, they returned. It was not long
before one of the offenders was delivered up to me, and a shirt and a
pair of trowsers restored. The remainder of the stolen goods not coming
in before night, I was under a necessity of leaving them to go aboard;
for the sea run so high, that it was with the greatest difficulty the
boats could get out of the creek with day-light, much less in the dark.
The next morning I landed again, having provided myself with a present
for Taoofa, in return for what he had given me. As it was early, there
were but few people at the landing-place, and those few not without
their fears. But on my desiring Omai to assure them that we meant no
harm; and, in confirmation of this assurance, having restored the canoes
and released the offender, whom they had delivered up to me, they
resumed their usual gaiety; and presently a large circle was formed, in
which the chief, and all the principal men of the island, took their
places. The remainder of the clothes were now brought in; but as they
had been torn off the man's back by pieces, they were not worth carrying
on board. Taoofa, on receiving my present, shared it with three or four
other chiefs, keeping only a small part for himself. This present
exceeded their expectation so greatly, that one of their chiefs, a
venerable old man, told me, that they did not deserve it, considering
how little they had given to me, and the ill treatment one of my people
had met with. I remained with them till they had finished their bowl of
_kava_; and having then paid for the hog, which I had taken the day
before, returned on board, with Taoofa, and one of Poulaho's servants,
by whom I sent, as a parting mark of my esteem and regard for that
chief, a piece of bar iron, being as valuable a present as any I could
make to him.
Soon after, we weighed, and with a light breeze at S.E., stood out to
sea; and then Tafooa, and a few other natives, that were in the ship,
left us. On heaving up the anchor, we found that the cable had suffered
considerably by the rocks; so that the bottom, in this road, is not to
be depended upon. Besides this, we experienced, that a prodigious swell
rolls in there from the S.W.
We had not been long under sail, before we observed a sailing canoe
coming from Tongataboo, and entering the creek before which we had
anchored. Same hours after, a small canoe, conducted by four men, came
off to us. For, as we had but little wind, we were still at no great
distance front the land. These men told us, that the sailing canoe,
which we had seen arrive from Tongataboo, had brought orders to the
people of Eooa, to furnish us with a certain number of hogs; and that,
in two days, the king and other chiefs, would be with us. They,
therefore, desired we would return to our former station. There was no
reason to doubt the truth of what these men told us. Two of them had
actually come from Tongataboo in the sailing canoe; and they had no
view in coming off to us, but to give this intelligence. However, as we
were now clear of the land, it was not a sufficient inducement to bring
me back, especially as we had already on board a stock of fresh
provisions, sufficient, in all probability, to last during our passage
to Otaheite. Besides Taoofa's present, we had got a good quantity of
yams at Eooa, in exchange chiefly for small nails. Our supply of hogs
was also considerably increased there; though, doubtless, we should have
got many more, if the chiefs of Tongataboo had been with us, whose
property they mostly were. At the approach of night, these men finding
that we would not return, left us; as also some others who had come off
in two canoes, with a few cocoa-nuts and shaddocks, to exchange them for
what they could get; the eagerness of these people to get into their
possession more of our commodities, inducing them to follow the ships
out to sea, and to continue their intercourse with us to the last
moment.