surface decoration, any arrangement of forms, as at A., consisting only

of straight lines, is monotonous, and affords but imperfect pleasure;

but, introduce lines which tend to carry the eye towards the angles, as

at B., and you have at once an additional pleasure.

[Illustration]

“Then add lines giving a circular tendency, as at C., and you have now

complete harmony: in this case the square is the leading form or tonic;

the angular and curved are subordinate.

“We may produce the same result in adopting an angular composition, as

at D., add the lines as at E., and we at once correct the tendency to

follow only the angular direction of the inclined lines; but, unite

these by circles as at F., and we have harmony still more nearly

perfect, _i.e._, repose, for the eye has now no longer any want that

could be supplied.”

Still, compositions distributed in equal lines or divisions will be less

beautiful than those which require a greater mental effort to appreciate

them: proportions the most difficult for the eye to detect will be the

most agreeable.

In surface decoration by the Moors, lines flow from a parent stem: every

ornament, however distant, can be traced to its branch and root; they

have the happy art of so adapting the ornament to the surface decorated,

that the ornament as often appears to have suggested the general form as

to have been suggested by it. In all cases we find the foliage flowing

out of a parent stem, and we are never offended, as in modern practice,

by the random introduction of an ornament set down without a reason for

its existence. However irregular the space they have to fill, they

always commence by dividing it into equal areas, and round these trunk

lines they fill in their detail, but invariably return to their parent

stem.

The Moors also followed another principle, that of radiation from the

parent stem, as we may see exemplified in nature by the human hand, or

in a chestnut leaf. When style becomes debased, neither of these laws is

followed; as in Elizabethan ornament, where nothing is continuous,

nothing radiates, all is haphazard.

All junctions of curved lines with curved, or of curved with straight,

should be tangential to each other. The Oriental practice always accords

with this principle. Many of their ornaments are on the principle which

is observable in the lines of a feather and in the articulations of a

leaf; and to this is due that additional charm found in all perfect

ornamentation, which is called “the graceful.”

[Illustration: MISCELLANEOUS ORNAMENT IN THE ALHAMBRA]

[Illustration: CORNICES, CAPITALS, AND COLUMNS IN THE ALHAMBRA. THE

SPLENDID CORNICE AT THE RIGHT-HAND TOP CORNER IS FROM THE LOGGIA OF THE

GENERALIFE.]

[Illustration: CAPITALS FROM THE COURTS AND HALLS OF THE ALHAMBRA.]

A further charm is found in the works of the Arabs and Moors from their

conventional treatment of ornament, which, forbidden as they were by

their creed to represent living forms, they carried to the highest

perfection. They ever worked as Nature works, but always avoided a

direct transcript; they took her principles, but did not attempt to copy

her works.

It is true that the Arabs in Spain, as already pointed out, once or

twice allowed themselves to disregard the behests of the Korán, as

instanced in the Fountain of Lions, and the bas-relief which is now

preserved in the Museum of the Alhambra; but the Mohammedan mosques of

Egypt, India, and Spain, show everywhere the calm, voluptuous

translation of the doctrines of the Korán: an art in unison with its

imaginative and poetic teachings which led them to adorn their temples

in a manner peculiar to themselves.

COLOUR.

The colours employed by the Moors on their stucco work were in all

cases, the primaries--blue, red, and yellow (gold). The secondary

colours--purple, green, and orange, occur only in the Mosaic dados;

which, being near the eye, formed a point of repose from the more

brilliant colouring above. It is true that, at the present day, the

grounds of many of the ornaments are found to be green; it will readily

be seen, however, on a minute examination, that the colour originally

employed was blue, which, being a metallic pigment, has become green

from the effects of time. This is proved by the presence of particles of

blue colour, which occur everywhere in the crevices: in the

“restorations” also, which were made by the Catholic kings, green and

purple were freely used.

The colouring of the Courts and Halls of the Alhambra was carried out

on so perfect a motive, that anyone who cares to make this a study, can,

with almost absolute certainty, on being shown for the first time a

piece of Moorish ornament in white, define at once the manner in which

it was coloured. So completely were all the architectural forms

designed, with reference to their subsequent colouring, that the surface

alone will indicate the colours they were destined to receive.

Notwithstanding the fact that the Moors, in their marvellous system of

decoration, worked on fixed rules, the effect of their infinite variety

leaves the observer under the impression that they arrived at their

amazing achievements by instinct, to which centuries of refinement had

brought them. One person may naturally sing in tune as another does by

acquired knowledge. The happier state, however, is where knowledge

ministers to instinct, and this must have been the case with the Moors.

Their poet exhorts us to attentively contemplate the adornments of the

Palace, and so reap the benefit of a commentary on decoration; this

invitation seems to imply that there was in their works something to be

learned as well as much that might be felt.

Mr. Owen Jones admits that there is no authority for the gilding of the

columns: wherever the columns are of marble, the shafts are always free

from traces of colour of any kind. Gold, blue, and red are still seen on

most of the capitals, and, in some cases, the plaster half-columns

against the walls are covered by mosaic of a small pattern in glazed

earthenware. Nevertheless, the eminent authority on decoration is

strongly of opinion that the marble shafts could never have been,

originally, left entirely white; and, furthermore, he thinks that the

general harmony of the colouring above forbids such a supposition; but

the conclusion seems to be erroneous, when it is remembered that the

shafts of the columns are compared, in the graceful hyperbole of the

Inscriptions, to “transparent crystal;” and, again, “when struck by the

earliest beams of the rising sun, maybe likened to many blocks of

pearl.” Therefore, in view of the poetic reference by Moorish

versifiers, and the utter absence of any trace of colour on the marble,

it has been thought befitting to omit the gilding of the shafts in the

many reproductions in this volume from the beautiful coloured plates in

the work of Owen Jones. It should be recorded here that the book alluded

to is dedicated “To the Memory of Jules Goury, Architect, who died of

Cholera, at Granada, August 28th, 1834, whilst engaged in preparing the

original drawings for this work.”

Amongst the illustrations appearing on p. xlix. _supra_, which

principally consist of cornices, capitals, and columns in the Alhambra,

is a motto in Roman characters: TĀTO·MŌTA--Tanto Monta--pertaining to

Ferdinand and Isabella, and which is somewhat out of place in a page

otherwise devoted to Moorish ornament. The motto, of course, signifies

_tantamount_, and is meant to express an equality in power between the

two Sovereigns; Isabella zealously maintaining that her right of

exercising the royal authority was equivalent to that of her royal

consort: “_Tanto monta Isabella que Hernando, Hernando que

Isabella_”--of equal worth are Isabella and Ferdinand. The motto appears

in relief in the Court of the Lions.

Acknowledgment is made to the work of the late James Cavanah Murphy,

_Arabian Antiquities of Spain_, Lond., 1815, to which source we are

indebted for some of the illustrations to the present volume. Mr. Murphy

faithfully delineated, and admirably engraved the arabesques and mosaics

of the superb Courts and Halls of the Palace of the Alhambra at Granada.

For the rest, it may be said that a vast number of plates have been

specially prepared for the present volume; and it is thought a

confident expectation may be indulged of a favourable reception to an

attempt at preserving the reliques of a romantic pile--the glory and the

wonder of a civilised world.

“I PRAY YOU, LET US SATISFY OUR EYES

WITH THE MEMORIALS AND THE THINGS OF FAME

THAT DO RENOWN THIS CITY.”

_Twelfth Night, Act III., sc. 3._

The Alhambra.

The ancient citadel and residence of the Moorish monarchs of Granada is,

indisputably, the most curious, and in some ways the most marvellous

building that exists in the whole world. In its period, its

architectural style, and artistic effect, it is not without its

counterpart in Southern Spain; but the Alhambra was conceived and

constructed on so colossal a scale that it is accepted as the last word

in Arabian workmanship. From the outside it appears to be a forbidding

fortress, and, indeed, its walls are of prodigious strength; but within

it is a palace that was once the most voluptuous in the makings and

imaginings of man, and in which everything was made subservient to

luxury.

The singular fortunes of the Arabian, or Moresco-Spaniards, whose whole

existence is a tale that is told, certainly forms one of the most

anomalous, yet splendid episodes in history. Potent and durable as was

their dominion, we have no one distinct title by which to designate

them. They were a nation, as it were, without a legitimate country or a

name: a remote wave of the great Arabian inundation cast upon the shores

of Europe. From the year 710, when the Arab general Tarif landed at the

port which bears his name, and plundered Algeciras, to be succeeded in

the following year by a greater soldier, Geb-al-Tarik, whose name

survives in the title of “The Rock”--a familiar designation very dear to

Englishmen--the course of Moorish conquest from Gibraltar to the cliffs

of the Pyrenees was as rapid and brilliant as the ancient Moslem

victories of Syria and Egypt. Nay, had they not been checked on the

Plains of Tours by Charles _Martel_, who that day gained his

_sobriquet_--“The Hammerer”--all France, all Europe might have succumbed

to the ravages of the Saracenic warriors as completely as the empires of

the East were made to yield, and the crescent might have glittered on

the fanes of Paris and of London.

Repelled within the limits of the Pyrenees, the mixed hordes of Asia and

Africa that formed this great irruption, gave up the Moslem principle of

conquest, and sought to establish in Spain a peaceable and permanent

dominion. As conquerors, their heroism was only equalled by their

moderation; and in

[Illustration: VIEW OF GRANADA, SHOWING THE ALHAMBRA AND THE SIERRA

NEVADA.]

both, for a time, they excelled the nations with whom they contended.

Severed from their native homes, they loved the land given them, as they

supposed, by Allah, and strove to adorn it with all that could minister

to the happiness of man. By a system of wise and equitable laws they

formed an empire unrivalled for its prosperity by any of the empires of

Christendom, and diligently drew around them the graces and refinements

that marked the Arabian empire in the East at the time of its

[Illustration: GENERAL VIEW OF THE ALHAMBRA FROM SAN NICOLAS.]

greatest civilisation. If the superb remains of Moslem monuments in

Spain; if the Mosque of Córdova, the Alcázar of Seville, and the

Alhambra of Granada still bear inscriptions fondly vaunting the power

and permanency of the dominion of the Moor; can the boast be derided as

arrogant and vain? They were the outposts and frontiers of Islamism. The

[Illustration: PART OF THE ALHAMBRA, EXTERIOR.]

Southern part of the Peninsula was the great battle-ground where the

Gothic conquerors of the North, and the Moslem conquerors of the East,

met and strove for mastery; the fiery courage of the Arab being at

length subdued by the obstinate and persevering valour of the

descendants of the subjects of Don Roderick. But century after century

had passed away, and still they retained a hold upon the land.[4] A

period had elapsed equal to that which has passed since England was

subjugated by the Normans; and the descendants of Musa[5] and Taric

might as little anticipate being forced into exile across the Straits

traversed by their triumphant ancestors, as the descendants of Rollo and

William may dream of being driven back to the shores of Normandy.

With all this, however, the Moslem empire in Spain was but

[Illustration: THE ALHAMBRA AND THE SIERRA NEVADA.]

a brilliant exotic that took no fixed root in the soil it adorned.

Severed from all their neighbours in the West by impassable barriers of

faith and manners, and separated by seas and deserts from their kindred

in the East, they remained an isolated people. Their whole existence was

a prolonged and gallant struggle to maintain a foothold in a land

usurped. The few relics of the miserable and proscribed race were

ultimately expelled from the Peninsula, under the administration of the

Duke of Lerma, during the reign of Philip III.--a measure which, by

depriving Spain of a numerous and industrious population, inflicted a

severe blow on her agriculture and commerce.

Never was the annihilation of a nation more complete. Where are they?

The exiled remnant of a once powerful people became assimilated with the

predatory hordes of Barbary and the desert southward. A few broken

monuments are all that remain to bear witness to their power and

dominion in Europe.

Such is the Alhambra; an epoch marking relic--a Moslem pile in the midst

of a Christian land; an Oriental palace amidst the Gothic edifices of

the West; an elegant memento of a brave, intelligent, and graceful

people who conquered, ruled, and passed away.

L’Alhambra! l’Alhambra! palais que les Génies

Ont doré comme un rêve et rempli d’harmonies;

Forteresse aux créneaux festonnés et croulans,

Où l’on entend la nuit de magiques syllables,

Quand la lune, à travers les milles arceaux arabes,

Sème les murs de trèfles blancs!

_Les Orientales_, par _Victor Hugo_.

The Alhambra--the Acropolis of Granada--is, indeed, a pearl of great

price in the estimation of all travellers, exciting in the breast of the

stranger the most absorbing interest and concentrated devotion. To

realise the full spell--the mystery and the magic of the Alhambra--one

must live in the building by day and contemplate it--like the ruins of

fair Melrose--by moonlight, when all is still. “Who can do justice,”

says Washington Irving, “to a moonlight night in such a climate and in

such a place! The temperature of an Andalusian midnight in summer is

perfectly ethereal. We seem lifted up into

[Illustration: ASCENT TO THE ALHAMBRA BY THE CUESTA DEL REY

CHICO--LESSER KING HILL.]

a purer atmosphere; there is a serenity of soul, a buoyancy of spirit,

an elasticity of frame, that renders mere existence enjoyment. The

effect of moonlight, too, on the Alhambra, has something like

enchantment. Every rent and chasm of time, every mouldering tint and

weather-stain disappears; the marble resumes its original whiteness;

the long colonnades brighten in the moonbeams; the halls are illuminated

with a softened radiance until the whole edifice reminds one of the

enchanted palace of an Arabian tale.”

[Illustration: BALCONY OF THE “CAPTIVE” (ISABEL DE SOLIS), OVERLOOKING

THE VEGA, OR PLAIN, OF GRANADA.]

Art and nature have combined to render Granada, with its Alps, Plain,

and Alhambra, one of those few places which surpass all previous

conceptions. The town is built on the spurs of the hills, which rise on

the south-east to their greatest altitude. The city overlooks the

_Vega_, or Plain, and is about 2,500 feet above sea-level. This

altitude, coupled with the snowy background, renders it a most delicious

residence; the bosom of snow furnishing a never-failing supply of water

for

[Illustration: ALCOVE OF THE “CAPTIVE” (ISABEL DE SOLIS).]

irrigation. Accordingly, the _Vega_ supplies every vegetable production,

and is a spot--said the Arabians themselves--superior in extent and

fertility to the valley of Damascus.

The Alhambra is built on a crowning height that hangs over the River

Darro; its long lines of walls and towers follow the curves and dips of

the ground just as a consummate artist would have placed them; the

wooded slopes, kept green by water-courses, are tenanted by

nightingales, singing as if in pain at the tender scene of desolate

beauty.

Granada, which, under the Moors, was populated by half-a-million

inhabitants, knew no slow decline, but flourished until it toppled to

its fall. The date of its ruin is 2nd January, 1492, when the banner of

Castile first floated from the towers of the Alhambra. To the fatal

influence of a beautiful woman--Isabel de Solis--may be attributed, in

great part, the destruction of the Moslem cause. Isabel was the daughter

of the Governor of Martos, a town of Andalusia to the north-west of

Granada. In a foray by the Moors she was captured, and became the

favourite Sultana of Abu-l-hasan, King of Granada. Her Moorish

appellation is Zoraya--“Morning Star”--in allusion to her surpassing

loveliness, on account of which Ayeshah, another wife and cousin of

Abu-l-hasan, became jealous of her rival. This necessarily led to

dissension; conspiracy was rampant, and the Moorish Court became

separated into two parties. Of the most powerful families of Granada,

the Zegris espoused the cause of Ayeshah; while the Beni Cerraj

(Abencerrages) championed that of the “Morning Star.” In June, 1482,

Abu-Abdillah (Boabdil), son of Ayeshah, dethroned Abu-l-hasan, his

father. Thus the Moorish house was divided against itself at the very

time when Castile and Aragon became united by the marriage of Ferdinand

and Isabella. On Boabdil’s defeat and capture at Lucena in 1483, the old

king returned to Granada and was enthroned, but quickly abdicated in

favour of his brother, Mohammed (XII.), called Ez-zaghal, the Valiant.

Boabdil, later, was re-instated; but, becoming a mere instrument and

vassal of Ferdinand, finally surrendered himself and his kingdom to the

Christian king.

[Illustration: INTERIOR OF THE “CAPTIVE’S” (ISABEL DE SOLIS) TOWER.]

For the true character of Ferdinand consult Shakespeare, who understood

all things--“who didst the stars and sunbeams know.” He describes

Ferdinand, by the mouth of our eighth Henry’s ill-fated queen, Katharine

of Aragon, daughter of Ferdinand and Isabella:

“....Ferdinand,

My father, King of Spain, was reckon’d

The _wisest_ prince, that there had reign’d by many

A year before: ...”

Henry VIII., Act II.

And of Katharine’s qualities, King Henry, in all things else

unrelenting, speaks in high terms:

“....Thou art, alone,--

If thy rare qualities, sweet gentleness,

Thy meekness saint-like, wife-like government,

Obeying in commanding, and thy parts

Sovereign and pious else, could speak thee out,--

_The queen of earthly queens_.”

Henry VIII., Act II.

As to Queen Isabella, Ford is loud in her praise, regarding her as a

pearl among women. She died, indeed, far from Granada, but desired to be

buried here--in the Cathedral of Granada--the bright jewel of her crown.

Isabella was the Elizabeth of Spain, the most effulgent star of an age

which produced Ximenez, Columbus, and the Great Captain, all of whom

rose to full growth under her smile, and withered at her death. She is

one of the most faultless characters in history, one of the purest

sovereigns who ever graced or dignified a throne; who, “in all her

relations of queen, or woman,” was, in the words of Lord Bacon, “an

honour to her sex, and the corner-stone of the greatness of Spain.” Then

it was that Spain spread her wings over a wider sweep of empire, and

extended her name of glory to the far antipodes. Then it was that her

flag, on which the sun never set, was unfolded to the wonder and terror

of Europe; while a New World, boundless, and richer than the dreams of

avarice, was cast into her lap, discovered at the very moment when the

Old World was becoming too confined for the outgrowth of the awakened

intellect, enterprise, and ambition of mankind.

* * * * *

After receiving the keys of the fortress, Ferdinand remained for a few

days in Granada, having entrusted the custody of the Alhambra to Don

Inigo Lopez de Mendoza, Count of Tendilla.[6]

[Illustration: THE GOTHIC INSCRIPTION SET UP IN THE ALHAMBRA BY THE

COUNT OF TENDILLA, TO COMMEMORATE THE SURRENDER OF THE FORTRESS IN

1492.]

The fact is recorded in a Gothic inscription formerly placed over a

cistern constructed at the command of that Governor, but now on a wall

just within the “Gate of Justice.” The letters are incised upon a large

marble tablet.

[Illustration: THE SURRENDER OF GRANADA BY BOABDIL TO FERDINAND AND

ISABELLA, JANUARY 2ND, 1492.]

The following is a translation of the inscription:

“The most high, most Catholic, and most powerful lords, Don Fernando and

Doña Isabel, our King and Queen, conquered by force of arms this Kingdom

and city of Granada, which, after their highnesses had besieged it in

person for a considerable time, was surrendered to them by the Moorish

King, Muley Hasen, together with its Alhambra, and other fortresses, on

the 2nd day of January, 1492. On the same day their highnesses

appointed, as Governor and Captain-General of the same, Don Inigo Lopez

de Mendoza, Count of Tendilla, their vassal, who, on their departure,

was left in the Alhambra with 500 horse and 1,000 foot; and the Moors

were ordered to remain in their houses and villages as they were before.

The Count, by command of their highnesses, caused this cistern to be

made.”

It will be seen, by the style of the Gothic lettering, that the

inscription was cut in the last decade of the fifteenth century. Whether

the count of Tendilla dug the well or only constructed the cistern

remains a disputable point; it is not important; but what is by no means

clear is the strange statement that the keys were surrendered by “Muley

Hasen.” Upon the capture of Boabdil[7] at Lucena by the Count of Cabra,

he was conducted to Córdova, where he was received with much honour by

Ferdinand, after the manner, in modern times, of the reception of

Schamyl at the Court of St. Petersburg. Thereafter, Boabdil became the

instrument of the Christians, and was allowed to return to Granada,

where such confusion reigned at this time, that there were always two,

and sometimes three kings in the Moorish capital of Andalusia. The

antagonism of old Muley Hasen, his son Boabdil, and the brother of

Muley, Ez-Zaghal, “the Valiant,” all posing as kings at one time,

probably hastened the overthrow of the Moorish power.

There is much uncertainty respecting the date of Muley Hasen’s death.

Some authorities state that when he was dethroned by his son Boabdil,

“he retired to Malaga.” Others say that the king could not survive the

misfortunes that his son’s rebellion brought upon the kingdom, and

“becoming blind and mad, soon afterwards died.” One account gives his

death as occurring in September, 1484, without, however, adducing

evidence in support. Is it not just possible then, that when Malaga

fell, the old king was discovered and rode in Ferdinand’s train, to

deliver the keys of Granada, as so plainly set forth in the Gothic

inscription of the Count of Tendilla?

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