After a month's residence at _Avignon_, where I waited till the weather
and roads amongst the high _Dauphine_ mountains were both improved, I
sat out for this city. I had, you know, outward bound, dropt down to
_Port St. Esprit_ by water, so it was a new scene to us by land, and I
assure you it was a fine one; the vast and extensive rich vales, adorned
on all sides with such romantic mountains, could not be otherwise, in
such a climate. Our first stage was only four leagues to _Orange_; this
is the last town in the Pope's territories; and within a quarter of a
mile of it stands, in a corn field, a beautiful Roman triumphal arch, so
great in _ruins_, that it would be an ornament even in Rome. The _Palais
Royal_ at this town, has nothing to recommend it, but that it affords a
prospect of this rich morsel of antiquity.
From _Orange_ we passed through _Pierlaite, Donzeir_, and several
smaller towns, and we lay one night at a single house, but an excellent
auberge, called _Souce_, kept by an understanding sensible host.
At a little village called _A'tang_, on the banks of the Rhone, we
stopped a day or two, to enjoy the sweet situation. Just opposite to it,
on the other side of the river, stands a large town, (_Tournau_,) which
added to the beauty of our village, over which hangs a very high
mountain, from whence the best Hermitage wine is collected: I suppose it
is called _Hermitage_, from a Hermit's cell on the top of it; but so
unlike the _Montserrat_ Hermitages, that I contented myself with only
tasting the Hermit's wine; it was so good indeed, that though I did not
see how it was possible to get it safe to the north side of France, I
could not withstand the temptation of buying a cask, for which I was to
pay twelve guineas, and did pay one as earnest, to a very sensible, and
I believe honest and opulent wine merchant, who, however, made me a
present of two bottles when I came away, almost worth my guinea; it is
three livres a bottle on the spot; and he shewed me orders he had
received from men of fashion in England, for wine; among which was one
from Mr. _Ryder_, Sir _Dudley Ryder_'s son I fancy, who, I found, was
well satisfied with his former dealings. Do you know that Claret is
greatly improved by a mixture of Hermitage, and that the best Claret we
have in England is generally so _adulterated_?
The next towns we passed were _Pevige_ and _Vienne_, the latter only
five leagues from this city. It is a very ancient town, and was formerly
a Roman colony. The cathedral is a large and noble Gothic structure, and
in it is a fine tomb of Cardinal _Mountmoin_, said to be equal in
workmanship to _Richlieu_'s in the _Sorbonne_, but said to be so, by
people no ways qualified to judge properly; it is indeed an expensive
but a miserable performance, when put in competition with the works of
_Girrardeau_. About half a mile without the town is a noble pyramidal
Roman monument, said to have stood in the center of the Market-place, in
the time of the Romans. There is also to be seen in this town, a Mosaic
pavement discovered only a few years since, wonderfully beautiful
indeed, and near ten feet square, though not quite perfect, being broken
in the night by some malicious people, out of mere wantonness, soon
after it was discovered.
At this town I was recommended to the _Table Round_; but as there are
two, the _grande_ and the _petit_, I must recommend you to the _petit_
where I was obliged to move; for, of all the dreadful women I ever came
near, Madam _Rousillion_ has the _least mellifluous_ notes; her ill
behaviour, however, procured me the honour of a very agreeable
acquaintance, the _Marquis DeValan_, who made me ashamed, by shewing us
an attention we had no right to expect; but this is one, among many
other agreeable circumstances, which attend strangers travelling in
France. French gentlemen never see strangers ill treated, without
standing forth in their defence; and I hope English gentlemen will
follow their example, because it is a piece of justice due to strangers,
in whatever country they are, or whatever country they are from; it is
doing as one would be done by. That prejudice which prevails in England,
even among some people of fashion, against the French nation is
illiberal, in the highest degree; nay, it is more, it is a national
disgrace.--When I recollect with what ease and uninterruption I have
passed through so many great and little towns, and extensive provinces,
without a symptom of wanton rudeness being offered me, I blush to think
how a Frenchman, if he made no better figure than I did, would have
been treated in a tour through Britain.--My Monkey, with a pair of
French jack boots, and his hair _en queue_, rode postillion upon my
sturdy horse some hours every day; such a sight, you may be sure,
brought forth old and young, sick and lame, to look at him and his
master. _Jocko_ put whole towns in motion, but never brought any affront
on his master; they came to look and to laugh, but not to deride or
insult. The post-boys, it is true, did not like to see their fraternity
_taken off_, in my _little Theatre_; but they seldom discovered it, but
by a grave salutation; and sometimes a good humoured fellow called him
comrade, and made _Jocko_ a bow; they could not laugh at his bad seat,
for not one of them rode with more ease; or had a handsomer laced
jacket. Mr. _Buffon_ says, the Monkey or _Maggot_, (and mine is the
latter, for he has no tail) make their grimace or chattering equally to
shew their anger or to make known their appetite. With all due deference
to this great naturalist, I must beg leave to say, that his observation
is not quite just; there is as much difference between the grimace of my
_Jocko_, when he is angry or hungry, and when he grins to shew delight,
as there is in a man, when he gnashes his teeth in wrath, or laughs from
mirth.
Between _Avignon_ and this town I met a dancing bear, mounted by a
_Maggot_: as it was upon the high road, I desired leave to present
_Jocko_ to his grandfather, for so he appeared both in age and size; the
interview, though they were both males, was very affecting; never did a
father receive a long-lost child with more seeming affection than the
_old gentleman_ did my _Jocko_; he embraced him with every degree of
tenderness imaginable, while the _young gentleman_ (like other young
gentlemen of the present age) betrayed a perfect indifference. In my
conscience I believe it, there was some consanguinity between them, or
the reception would have proved more mutual. Between you and me, I
fear, were I to return to England, I might find myself a sad party in
such an interview. It is a sad reflection; but perhaps Providence may
wisely ordain such things, in order as men grow older, to wean them from
the objects of their worldly affections, that they may resign more
readily to the decree of fate. That good man, Dr. ARBUTHNOT, did not
seem to dread the approach of death on his own account, so much as from
the grievous affliction HE had reason to fear it would bring upon his
children and family.