THE MANGO
Of all Oriental fruits brought to the Occident, the golden mango of
India is undoubtedly king. For thousands of years, horticulturists of
the Far East, under the direction of native princes, have worked towards
its perfection. Just when the seeds were introduced into Cuba, no one
knows, but certain it is that so favorable were both soil and climate
that the mango today, in the opinion of the natives at least, furnishes
the Island its finest fruit. It has so multiplied and spread throughout
all sections that it plays an important part in the decoration of the
landscape.
Next to the royal palm, the mango is more frequently seen in traveling
along railroads or automobile drives than any other tree. Its beautiful
dark green foliage, tinged during spring with varying shades, from
cocoanut yellow to magenta red, is not only attractive to the eye but
gives promise of loads of luscious fruit during the months of June, July
and August.
There are two distinct races or types of this family in Cuba, one known
as the mango, and the other as the manga. The terminations would suggest
male and female, although no such difference exists in sex. Both in form
and fruit, however, the types are quite different.
The mango is a tall, erect tree, reaching frequently a height of 60 or
70 feet, with open crown and strong, vigorous limbs. The fruit is
compressed laterally, has a curved or beak-like apex, yellow or
yellowish green in color, often blushed with crimson. It is rich in
flavor but filled unfortunately with a peculiar fibre that impedes
somewhat the removal of the juicy pulp.
Nearly all varieties of mangoes are prolific bearers. Their handsome
golden yellow tinted fruit not infrequently bends limbs to the breaking
point, so great is its weight. The fruit is from three to five inches in
length, and will weigh from five to twelve ounces. The skin is smooth
and often speckled with carmine or dark brown spots, and in most of the
seedlings there is a slightly resinous odor, objectionable to strangers.
The manga, quite distinct from the mango both in form of tree and in
appearance of fruit, is easily distinguished at a distance. It grows
from 30 to 40 feet in height, is beautifully rounded or dome shaped, and
has a closed crown or top. The panicles in early spring are from 12 to
24 inches in length, pale green in color, usually tinged with red, and
in contrast with the deep green of its foliage produce rather a
startling effect.
There are two types of the manga, one known as the Amarilla and the
other as the Blanca. More of the latter are found in the neighborhood of
Havana than in any other section of the island. Three of the most
perfect samples of the manga blanca, both in tree and fruit, are found
within a few rods of each other on the northern side of the automobile
drive from Havana to Guanajay, between kilometers 35 and 36.
The mangas also are prolific bearers, whose fruit ripens in July and
August, a month or so later than the mango. The fruit is roundish, very
plump, and with the beak or point of the mango entirely missing. Its
color is lemon yellow with a delicate reddish blush, the length about
three inches and the weight from five to eight ounces. The skin, rather
tough, peels readily, and in eating should be torn down from the stem
towards the apex. The same fibre is present as in the mango, while the
pulp is very juicy, sweet, slightly aromatic and pleasant in flavor.
The manga amarilla, closely allied to the blanca, is a very common form
and quite a favorite in the markets of Havana, where it is found towards
the end of July. The fruit is a deeper yellow than the blanca, very
juicy, and also very fibrous, with a weight varying from four to eight
ounces. These, with the mangoes above described, are seedling trees that
have gradually spread throughout the Island, the seed being scattered
along public highways and forest trails by men and animals. Horses,
cattle, goats and hogs are very fond of the mango.
Since all mangoes give such delightful shade, and yield such an
abundance of luscious fruit throughout spring and early summer, the seed
has been planted around every home where space offered in city, hamlet
or country bohio. The center or “batey” of every sugar and coffee estate
in Cuba is made comfortable by their grateful shade, while single trees
coming from seeds dropped in the depths of the forest have gradually
widened out into groves. During the years of the Cuban War for
Independence, the fruit from these groves, from May until August,
furnished the chief source of food for insurgent bands that varied
anywhere from 200 to 2000 men.
During the middle of the last century, when large coffee estates nestled
in the hills of Pinar del Rio, the mango, with its grateful shade and
luscious fruit, indicated the home or summer residence of the owner.
Today, of the house only broken stones and vine-covered fallen walls
remain, but the mangoes, old and gnarled, still stand, while around them
have spread extensive groves of younger trees, bearing each year tons of
fruit, with none to eat it save the occasional prospector, or the wild
hog of the forest.
The Filipino mango, although not very common in Cuba, is occasionally
found in the western part of the Island, especially in the province of
Havana, where it was introduced many years ago, probably from Mexico,
although coming originally from the Philippine Islands, where it is
about the only mango known. The tree is rather erect, with a closed or
dome-shaped top, something similar to the manga. Its fruit is unique in
form--long, slender, sharply pointed at the apex, flattened on the
sides, and of a greenish yellow to lemon color when ripe. The pulp is
somewhat spicy and devoid of the objectionable fibre common to seedling
mangoes. It is usually preferred by strangers, although not as sweet and
delicious in flavor as other varieties of this family. The tree is
comparatively small, seldom reaching more than 30 feet in height. The
fruit is from four to six inches in length and will weigh from six to
twelve ounces. The Filipino has suffered but very little change in its
peregrinations throughout two hemispheres. It is not a prolific bearer,
but its fruit commands a very good price in the market. The Biscochuelo
mango is of the East Indian type, although the time and manner of its
introduction into Cuba is somewhat obscure. French refugees from Santo
Domingo may have brought it with them in 1800. It is found mostly in the
hills near Santiago de Cuba, especially around El Caney, and is quite
plentiful in the Santiago markets during the month of July. The fruit is
broadly oval with a clear, orange colored skin and firm flesh, and is
rather more fibrous than the Filipino. Its flavor is sweet and rich,
while its weight varies from eight to fourteen ounces. This variety of
the mango is not closely allied to any of the above mentioned types, but
keeps well, and would seem to be worthy of propagation in other sections
of the Island.
Something over a half century ago, a wealthy old sea captain of
Cienfuegos, returning from the East Indies, brought twelve mango seeds
that were planted in his garden near Cienfuegos. One of the best of the
fruits thus introduced is called the Chino or Chinese mango, and is
probably the largest seedling fruit in the Island. On account of size it
sells in Havana at from 20¢ to 40¢, although it is quite fibrous and
rather lacking in flavor. This mango, through care and selection, has
undergone considerable improvement, so that the Chino today is a very
much better fruit than when brought to Cienfuegos sixty years ago.
During the early Napoleonic wars, a shipload of choice mangoes and other
tropical fruit from India was sent by the French Government to be
planted in the Island of Martinique. The vessel was captured, however,
by an English man-of-war and carried into Jamaica. From this island and
from Santo Domingo, the French refugees introduced a number of mangoes,
including nearly all those that are now growing in Oriente, while the
manga, so common in Havana Province and Pinar del Rio, is thought to
have been brought from Mexico, although its original home, of course,
was in India and the Malaysian Islands.
The fancy mangoes of Cuba today have all been imported within recent
years at considerable expense from the Orient, and their superiority
over the Cuba seedlings is due to the patient toil and care spent in
developing and perpetuating choice varieties of the fruit in India. Of
these fancy East Indian mangoes, the Mulgoba probably heads the list in
size, quality and general excellence. The fruit is almost round,
resembling in shape a small or medium sized grape fruit. Its average
weight is about sixteen ounces, although it sometimes reaches
twenty-four or more. When entirely ripe the Mulgoba is cut around the
seed horizontally. The two halves are then twisted in opposite
directions, separating them from the seed, after which they may be eaten
in the inclosing skin, with a spoon.
The pulp is rich, sweet, of delightful flavor, and absolutely free from
fibre of any kind, which is true of nearly all East Indian mangoes.
Budded trees begin to bear the third or fourth year, yielding perhaps 25
mangoes. The sixth or seventh year, dependent on soil and care bestowed,
they should bear from three to five hundred. In the tenth year, mangoes
of this variety should average at least a thousand fruit to the tree and
will bring from $1 to $3 a dozen in the fancy fruit stores of the United
States.
The Bombay is another excellent mango, devoid of fibre. Its weight is
somewhat less than the Mulgoba, ten ounces being a fair average. Another
East Indian variety known as the Alfonse has the size and weight of the
Bombay, although differing in flavor and in its form, which is heart
shaped. Its weight will average ten ounces.
A close companion of the Alfonse is known as the “Favorite,” whose fruit
will average about sixteen ounces. The Amani is another choice East
Indian mango of much smaller size, since it weighs only about six
ounces. The “Senora of Oriente” is one of the varieties of the Filipino
introduced into that Province many years ago, and has proved very
prolific. It is fibreless, of good commercial value, the weight of the
fruit varying from ten to twelve ounces. It is long and carries a very
thin seed; its color is greenish yellow.
The “Langra” is another importation from India, a large long mango
weighing about two pounds, lemon yellow in color, of good qualities,
with a sub-acid flavor.
The “Ameere” is similar to the Langra in color and quality, the fruit
weighing only about one pound.
The “Maller” is very closely allied to both the above mentioned types,
and bears a very excellent fruit with slightly different flavor and
odor.
The “Sundershaw” is probably the largest of all mangoes, the fruit
varying from two to four pounds in weight, fibreless, with small seed,
but with a flavor not very agreeable.
All of the above mentioned varieties of mangoes have been introduced
into Cuba at considerable expense and grafted on to seedling trees,
producing the finest mangoes in the world. Owing to their scarcity at
the present time in the western hemisphere, very remunerative prices are
secured even in the markets of Havana. Shipments consigned to the large
hotels and fancy fruit houses in the United States have brought of
course much higher prices.
In the hands of a culinary artist the mango has many possibilities, both
in the green and the ripe state. From it are made delicious jams,
jellies, pickles, marmalade, mango butter, etc. It is used also, as is
the peach, in making pies, fillings for short cake, salads, chutneys,
etc.
[Illustration: FRUIT VENDER, HAVANA]
This handsome tree, especially the variety known as the manga, with its
round symmetrical dome-like form, its rich glossy foliage of leaves that
are never shed and that remain green throughout the entire year, adds
not only to the beauty of the landscape, but furnishes most grateful
shade to all who may seek a rest along the roadside.
It is more than probable that the Government of Cuba will select the
manga as the natural shade tree for its public highways and automobile
drives. The experiment has been made in some places with excellent
success, and the delicious fruit yielded in such abundance would furnish
refreshing nourishment for the wayfarer during spring and early summer.
Choice varieties of the mango are comparatively unknown in northern
countries. Unfortunately the first samples that reached northern markets
came from Florida seedlings, and owing to their slightly resinous or
turpentine flavor, did not meet with a very ready acceptance. The rich,
delicious, fibreless pulp of the East Indian mangoes, if once known in
the larger cities of the North, would soon create a furore, that could
only be satisfied by large shipments, and that would command prices
higher than any other fruit grown.
The mango, too, as a shade tree, or producer of fruit, has one great
advantage over the orange and many other trees. It will thrive in the
soil of rocky hills and in the dry lands whose impervious sub-soil would
bar many other trees. The day is not far distant when the mango will be
not the most popular but also the most profitable fruit produced of any
tree in the West Indies.