PROVINCE OF CAMAGUEY
According to the log of the _Santa Maria_, the first glimpse of the
Island of Cuba enjoyed by Christopher Columbus, sailing as he did in a
southwesterly course across the Bahama Banks, is supposed by many to
have been at some point along the northern coast of what is now known as
the Province of Camaguey. The area of this Province, including Cayos
Romano, Guajaba, Sabinal and Coco, is approximately 11,000 square miles.
The general trend of the coast lines is similar to those of the Province
of Santa Clara, and the length of each is approximately one hundred and
seventy-five miles. The average width of the province is eighty miles,
although between the southern extension of Santa Cruz del Sur and the
mouth of the harbor of Nuevitas, we have a hundred miles.
The same gentle graceful inoffensive natives were found in this section
of Cuba as those who first received the Spanish conquerors at Baracoa
and other places in the Island. Those of the great plains belonging to
this province were known as Camagueyanos, and although for many years
Spain called this section of the island Puerto Principe, the musical
Indian term stuck, and with the inauguration of the Republic in 1901,
the name of Camaguey was officially given to this part of Cuba.
In the year 1515, Diego Velasquez, with his fever for founding cities,
established a colony on the shore of the Bay of Nuevitas, and christened
it Puerto Principe. In those early days, however, there was no rest for
the unprotected, hence the first settlement was moved in a short time to
another locality not definitely known, but a year later the city was
permanently established in the center of the province, about fifty miles
from either shore, where it remains today, with many features of its
antiquity still in evidence.
The first of the old Spanish adventurers who succeeded in making himself
both famous and rich without flagrant trespass of law, was Vasco
Porcallo de Figueroa, one of the original settlers whom Velasquez left
in the City of Puerto Principe founded in 1515. This sturdy old pioneer
did not bother with gold mining, but succeeded in securing large grants
of land in the fertile plains of Camaguey, where he raised great herds
of cattle and horses, exercising at the same time a decidedly despotic
influence over the natives and everyone else in that region.
Vasco, although spending more than half of the year in the cities of
Puerto Principe and Sancti Spiritus, had a retreat of his own, probably
some place in the Sierra de Cubitas, where he held princely sway and
guarded his wealth from intrusive buccaneers and other ambitious
adventurers of those times. It was he who, meeting Hernando de Soto on
his arrival at Santiago de Cuba, escorted that famous explorer across
the beautiful rolling country of Camaguey, which he seemed to consider
as his own special domain, and finally accepted the position of second
in command in that unfortunate expedition of De Soto into the Peninsula
of Florida in 1539. Fighting the savage Seminoles was not however to his
taste, and the old man returned to Havana inside of a year, mounted his
horse and rode home, firmly convinced, he said, that Camaguey was the
only country for a white man to live and die in.
Even with the removal of the capital far into the interior, the
peacefully inclined citizens were not free from molestation and
unwelcome visits. During the middle of the seventeenth century, the
famous English corsair, Henry Morgan, afterwards Governor of Jamaica,
paid his respects to several Cuban cities, including Puerto Principe.
In 1668 he crossed the Caribbean with twelve boats and seven hundred
English followers, intending to attack Havana. He afterward changed his
mind, however, and landing in the Bay of Santa Maria began his march on
the capital of Camaguey.
The inhabitants made a desperate resistance, the Mayor and many of his
followers being killed, but the town was finally compelled to surrender
and submit to being sacked, during which process many women and children
were burned to death in a church behind whose barred doors they had
taken refuge. Morgan finally retired from Puerto Principe with his booty
of $50,000 and five hundred head of cattle.
During the Ten Years’ War the province of Camaguey became the center of
active military operations. The inhabitants of this section had
descended from the best families of Spain, who had emigrated from the
Mother Country centuries before. They were men of refinement and
education, men whose prosperity and contact with the outside world had
made life impossible under the oppressive laws of the Spanish monarchy.
Ignacio Agramonte, a scion of one of the best known families of
Camaguey, was a born leader of men, and soon found himself in command of
the Cuban forces. The struggle was an ill advised one, because the odds
in numbers were too great, and the resources of the Cubans were so
limited that success was impossible. The effort of General Agramonte and
his followers, all men of note and social standing, was a brave one, and
the sacrifice of the women, the mothers, sisters and daughters, of that
period, were not surpassed by any country in its fight for liberty.
But the unfortunate death of General Agramonte, and the long uphill
struggle, brought about the inevitable. The treaty of Zanjon in 1878 was
ultimately forced upon the revolutionists, many of whom afterwards
emigrated with their families to the United States, where some have
remained as permanent citizens of that Republic; among others, Doctor
Enrique Agramonte, a brother of Ignacio, who after fighting through the
ten tiresome years, left his country, never to return.
In the more recent struggles for Cuban liberty, known as the War of
Independence, Camaguey again took a prominent part and General Maximo
Gomez, who had succeeded Agramonte at his death, and General Antonio
Maceo, had the satisfaction of carrying the campaign of the Occident,
from Oriente, across Camaguey, where they defeated the Spanish forces in
several battles, and in the winter of 1896 led their victorious troops
in three parallel invading columns, to the extreme western end of the
Island. Thus the revolution was carried for the first time in history
beyond the Jucaro and Moron Trocha, or fortified ditch, near the western
border of Camaguey.
Narrow crooked streets still prevail in some parts of Camaguey and the
erection of modern buildings, that has become so common in Havana, has
not reached this quiet old municipality of the plains which still lives
and breathes an atmosphere smacking of centuries past.
Topographically, although the surface of Camaguey, in altitude and
contour, varies much, it is, as a whole, far more level than any other
province in the Island. Great fertile savannas and grass covered plains
predominate in almost every part. The potreros, or grazing lands, of
Camaguey, have made it famous as the breeding place par excellence for
horses and cattle, and its equal is not found anywhere in the West
Indies.
In spite of the comparatively level nature of the country, with the
exception of the low, heavily covered forest belt that sweeps along the
entire southern coast, extending back from ten to twenty-five miles, the
rest of the province partakes more of the character of an elevated
plateau, interspersed with low ranges of mountains and foothills, which
give pleasing diversity to the general aspect of the country.
The longest range in Camaguey is a continuation of the great central
chain, that follows the trend of the Island. It begins with a prominent
peak known as the Loma Cunagua, which rises abruptly from the low level
savannas ten miles east of the town of Moron in the northwestern corner
of the Province. A little further southeast, the range again appears and
finally develops into the Sierra de Cubitas, which follows the direction
of the north coast, terminating finally in the picturesque peak of
Tubaque, on the Maximo River.
A small stream, known as the Rio Yaguey, sweeps west along the southern
edge of this ridge and finally breaks through its western end, emptying
into the lagoon or Bay of Cayo Romano. A parallel range of lower hills,
with various spurs, lies a little south of the main Sierra de Cubitas.
The bountifully watered prairies, valleys and parks south and west of
these hills form the ideal grazing ground of the Pearl of the Antilles.
Several large herds of fine hogs and cattle, recently established in
this section, will soon play an important part in the meat supply of
Cuba.
As in Santa Clara, an independent group, or nest, of low peaks and
beautiful forest covered hills, occupies the southeastern center of the
Province of Camaguey. The lands in this section are very fertile and the
delightful variety of hill, valley and plain renders it a very
attractive country in which to make one’s permanent home. Several
elevations of moderate altitude, known as lomas, rise from the more
level country, a little to the north of the above mentioned district,
and form something of a connecting link between the Najasa, or mountains
of the southwest, and the Sierra de Cubitas of the north shore.
As before mentioned, several chains of the north coast, originating in
Santa Clara, sweep over and terminate in Camaguey, some ten or fifteen
miles east of the boundary line. The mountains of this district, owing
to the fact that they were distant from the coast, have never been
denuded of their virgin forests, and with the opening of the Cuba
Railroad, connecting Santa Clara with Santiago de Cuba on the south
coast, and the Bay of Nipe on the north, a considerable quantity of
valuable timber has been taken out within recent years.
Camaguey has no rivers of importance, although numerous streams flowing
from the central plateaus, toward both the northern and southern coast,
are utilized during the rainy season to float logs to shipping points.
These short streams, varying from ten to thirty miles in length, each
form basins or valleys of rich grass lands that are always in demand for
stock raising. Between the Jatobonico del Sur, which forms a part of the
western boundary of the Province, and the Rio Jobobo, which forms the
southeastern boundary, are more than a dozen streams emptying into the
Caribbean. Among these are Los Guiros, the Altamiro, the Najasa and the
Sevilla.
The Najasa has its origin a little south of the City of Camaguey, and
passes through a heavily timbered country, carrying many logs to the
landing of Santa Cruz del Sur. A railroad was surveyed from the latter
city to the capital some years ago, but has never been completed.
On the north coast, between the Jatibonico del Norte, which forms the
northwestern boundary, and the Puentes Grandes, forming the
northeastern, we have some ten or a dozen short streams, among the most
important of which are the Rio de los Perros, emptying into the Lagoon
of Turaguanao; the Rio Caonao emptying into the lagoon of Romano; the
Jiguey, cutting through the western extremity of the Sierra de Cubitas
and emptying into the eastern end of the above mentioned lake; the Rio
Maximo, rising on the south side of the chain, sweeping around its
eastern end and emptying into the Bay of Sabinal; and the Saramaguacan,
one of the longest in the province, rising in the mountains of the
Najasa, whence it flows in a northeasterly direction and empties into
the harbor of Nuevitas. Both the Chambas and the Rio Caonao, when not
obstructed by mud bars at their mouths, are navigable for light draft
schooners and sloops, for some twelve or fifteen miles into the
interior.
At no point on the south Coast of Camaguey can be found any harbor
worthy of the name, although at Jucaro, Santa Cruz del Sur and Romero,
considerable timber and sugar are shipped from piers that extend out
into the shallow waters of the Jucaro and Guacanabo gulfs.
The long system of salt water bays or lagoons, beginning at Punta Hicaco
in Matanzas, continues along the entire north coast of Camaguey and
terminates in the beautiful harbor of Nuevitas. The lagoons of Camaguey
are formed by a series of keys or islands, of which Cayo Romano,
seventy-five miles in length, with an average width of ten miles, is the
most important.
Although most of the area of this island is covered with a dense jungle
of low trees, the eastern end rises to quite a high promontory, with
more or less arable land, planted at the present time in henequen, and
yielding a very good revenue to the owner. An unknown number of wild
ponies, variously estimated at from six hundred to two thousand, inhabit
the jungles of Cayo Romano, living largely on the leaves of the forest,
and consequently degenerating in size and form to such an extent that
they have a very little commercial value.
Cayo Coco, really an extension of Romano, reaches out to the westward
some fifteen miles further, while the Island of Guajaba, separated by a
narrow pass with only three feet of water, incloses the beautiful harbor
of Guanaja. Sabinal, some 25 miles in length by ten or twelve in width,
forms the northern shore of the harbor of Nuevitas. On the latter key
there is fairly good grazing ground and much territory that eventually
will probably be planted in henequen, as is the promontory of Nuevitas,
just north of the city of that name.
These salt water lakes or bays are often twenty-five miles or more in
length by ten wide and with an average depth of fifteen feet.
Unfortunately, not only are they separated by narrow passes seldom
carrying over three feet, but exit to the ocean for any craft drawing
over five or six feet is very difficult to find.
The harbor of Nuevitas, in the northwestern corner of the Province, is
one of the finest in the Island. Its width varies from three to ten
miles, while its length is approximately twenty, carrying excellent deep
water anchorage throughout almost its entire extent. A peculiar
river-like opening, six miles in length, deep and narrow, connects it
with the Atlantic Ocean.
In proportion to its size, the province of Camaguey has less railroad
mileage than any other in the Island. Until 1902, when Sir William Van
Horn, late President of the Cuba Company, connected the City of Santa
Clara by rail with Santiago de Cuba, there were but two railroads in
that section of the country. One, the Camaguey & Nuevitas Road,
connected the capital with practically the only shipping point on the
north coast. Another, built many years before, for military purposes,
connected the town of San Ferrando, on the north coast, with Jucaro on
the south coast, and ran parallel with what was known as the Trocha, a
military ditch about eighty kilometers in length, with two story
concrete forts at each kilometer, and low dug-outs, or shooting boxes,
located midway between the principal forts. The ground was cleared on
either side of the railroad for a kilometer, while on both sides a
perfect network of barbed wire, fastened by staples to the top of wood
stakes, rendered it difficult for either infantry or cavalry to cross
from one side to the other. This modern military device was established
by the Spanish forces in 1895, so as to prevent the Cubans from carrying
the revolution into Santa Clara and the western provinces.
As in the other provinces of Cuba, cane growing and the making of sugar
forms the chief industry, although, owing to the wonderfully rich
potreros, or grazing lands of Camaguey, the raising of live stock in the
near future will doubtless rival all other sources of wealth in that
section.
There are twenty sugar mills in the province with a production of
approximately 3,000,000 bags. The two mills at Las Minas and Redencion,
between Camaguey and Nuevitas, have been in operation for many years,
but with the opening up of the Van Horn railroad a new impetus was given
to sugar production, and during the past ten years, some eighteen new
mills have been established at various points along the railroad where
lands were fertile and comparatively cheap.
A line known as the North Shore Railroad of Cuba, connecting the city of
Nuevitas with Caibarien, in Santa Clara Province, some 200 miles west,
was surveyed and capital for it was promised, in 1914. The breaking out
of the European war delayed work on the road, but its completion can be
assured in the near future.
Several large sugar estates have been located along the line that will
open up a territory rich in soil and natural resources. Important iron
mines, too, in the foothills of the Sierra de Cubitas, are waiting only
this transportation to add an important revenue to the Province. A great
deal of valuable timber will be available when the line is in operation.
Owing to the large beds of valuable ore belonging to the mineral zone of
the Cubitas, it is quite probable that the mining industry will some day
rank next to that of general farming in Camaguey, although as far as
natural advantages are concerned, there is no industry which in the end
can rival that of stock raising.
During 1895, the first year of the War of Independence, over a million
head of sleek, fat cattle were registered in the Province of Camaguey,
where the grasses are so rich that an average of seventy head can be
kept in condition throughout the year on a hundred acres of land. The
two grasses commonly found in Camaguey were both brought from abroad. Of
these, the Guinea, imported from western Africa, grows luxuriantly on
all the plateaus and higher lands of the province, while the Parana, a
long running grass from the Argentine, does best in the lower lands and
savannas. One stock man of Camaguey at least, has succeeded in producing
splendid fields of alfalfa, from which seven or eight cuttings are taken
each year.
Fruits of all kinds, especially oranges and pineapples, grow luxuriantly
in this Province, but owing to the lack of transportation, the railroad
haul to Havana being practically prohibitory, shipments of fruit and
vegetables to the northern markets are confined almost entirely to a
steamer which leaves the harbor of Nuevitas once every two weeks.
Owing perhaps to the rich and comparatively cheap lands offered by the
Province of Camaguey, more Americans are said to have settled in this
section than in any other part of Cuba. The first colony, called La
Gloria, was located in 1900 on the beautiful bay of Guanaja or Turkey
Bay, some five or six miles back from the shore. The location, although
healthful and in a productive country, was most unfortunate as far as
transportation facilities were concerned. Two hundred or more families
made clearings in the forests of the Cubitas, and there made for
themselves homes under adverse circumstances. The worst of these was the
isolation of the spot, and lack of communication with any city or town
nearer than Camaguey, some forty-five miles southwest, or Nuevitas,
forty miles east; without railroads, wagon roads, or even water
communication by vessels drawing over seven feet.
The Zanja, or ditch, some three miles in length, connecting the harbor
of Nuevitas with Guanaja Bay, was recently dredged to a depth of three
or four feet, so that launches can now pass from La Gloria to Nuevitas,
but aside from the fertility of the soil, there was but little to
commend La Gloria as a place of permanent residence. Only grit and
perseverance on the part of sturdy Americans has sustained them during
the past sixteen years. But they concluded to make the best of the
situation in which they found themselves, and are producing nearly
everything needed for their subsistence. A considerable amount also of
farm produce and fruit will soon be shipped to northern markets from the
harbor of Nuevitas. A very creditable agricultural fair is held in La
Gloria each winter, and the contents of the weekly paper seems to bear
every evidence of progress and content. In spite of adverse conditions,
the people of La Gloria have prospered and enjoy there many comforts not
found in colder climates, and with the opening up of the North Shore
Road, this really attractive section of country, which includes several
smaller colonies scattered along the water front, will be brought in
close touch once more with the civilization of the outside world.
Another colony, also unfortunate in its location, was established at
Ceballos on the Jucaro and Moron railroad, about eight miles north of
its junction with the Cuba Company road at Ciego de Avila. The soil was
well adapted to the growth of citrus fruit, and large groves were laid
out by Americans, some ten or twelve years ago, along the line of the
old clearing that bordered the Trocha. The groves, as far as nature
could provide, were successful, but the excessive freight rates between
Ceballos and either the city of Havana or the Bay of Nipe, have proved
discouraging to the original settlers.
Several smaller colonies have been located along the Cuba Company’s
railway and the line connecting the city of Camaguey with Nuevitas, but
again the long distance between these points and large markets, either
local or foreign, have worked to the disadvantage of the growers. If
stock raising instead of fruit growing had occupied the time and
attention of these American pioneers, more satisfactory results would
have been obtained.
Nuevitas, located on the southern shore of the harbor of that name, is a
modern city with wide streets and a population of approximately 7,000
people. Its location, at the terminus of the Camaguey Railroad, and on
the only harbor of the north coast, renders it a place of considerable
commercial importance, since large quantities of sugar, lumber and
livestock leave the port during the year, while coasting steamers of
local lines touch every few days.
Camaguey, the capital of the Province, so long known as Puerto Principe,
has a population of about 45,000 people. The natives of this city have
long enjoyed and merited an enviable reputation for integrity,
intelligence and social standing, traits that were inherited from a
number of excellent families who came to Cuba from Southern Spain in the
early colonial days. The rich grazing lands of Camaguey and the
salubrious climate, not only of the north coast, but of the great
plateaus of the interior, were very attractive to the better class of
pioneers who came over in the sixteenth century in search of peace,
permanent homes and wealth based on legitimate industry.
There is no section of the Island more highly esteemed for the integrity
of its people than that of the isolated, aristocratic city of Camaguey,
such as the families of Agramonte, Betancourt, Cisneros, Luaces,
Sanchez, Quesada and Varona. Nearly all these families through the long
painful Ten Years’ War suffered privations, followed by exile and loss
of everything but pride, dignity and good names.
Most of them made permanent homes in the United States, but many of
their children, educated in the land that gave their parents shelter,
have returned to their native country and occupied positions of trust
and responsibility in the new Republic.