PROVINCE OF MATANZAS
Historically the province of Matanzas has played a comparatively
unimportant part in the various events that have influenced the destiny
of the Island. In the early days of conquest, little mention of the
district was made. Grijalva, however, with a small body of men, was the
first of the Spanish conquerors who, pushing his way along the northern
coast of Cuba, reached the harbor now known as Matanzas on October 8,
1518. A very substantial fort of the same excellent style of military
architecture as that seen in Havana, was erected on the western shore of
the Bay of Matanzas to protect the city from invasion, in the middle of
the eighteenth century.
The province of Matanzas joins Havana on the east and has an area of
3,257 square miles. The surface as a whole is comparatively level,
although the chain of mountains, which forms the backbone of the entire
Island, is represented along the center of Matanzas in a series of low
peaks and foothills sloping away to the northwest corner, in which the
capital, Matanzas, is located on a bay of the same name.
Across the eastern center of the Province of Matanzas, nature left a
depression that extends from the north coast at Cardenas, almost if not
quite, to the shore of the Caribbean, at the Bay of Cochinos. The
elevation above the sea level is so slight throughout this belt that a
series of fresh water lagoons, swamps and low lands, without natural
drainage of any kind, has rendered the district almost useless for
agriculture and grazing purposes during the rainy season. Between the
months of May and November this section is frequently flooded so that
animals occasionally perish and crops are frequently destroyed.
To relieve the situation a drainage canal was proposed a few years ago,
that should furnish an artificial exit for the surplus water into the
Bay of Cardenas. The length of the proposed canal was thirty miles, and
work began on the big ditch in 1916. At the present time it is
practically completed, at a cost of approximately five millions of
dollars. Its width varies from sixteen to forty-four meters, carrying an
average depth of one and a half meters, or five feet.
The possibility of eventually converting this drainage canal into an
avenue of traffic, between the north and the south coasts, furnishing
thus water, or cheap transportation, between Havana, Matanzas, Cardenas
and Cienfuegos, or other ports on the south coast, has naturally
appealed to engineers who have studied the terrain. There are no
engineering difficulties that would prevent a canal of this kind from
being converted into a deep ship canal across the Island which would
shorten the distance between New York and Panama by at least two hundred
miles. Steamers bound north from Panama would then cross the Caribbean,
pass through from Cochinos Bay to Cardenas, entering at once the Gulf
Stream, the force of whose current would still further shorten the time
between Panama and Pacific ports on the south, and all Atlantic ports
north of Cuba. The engineering problem could not be more simple, since
it is merely a question of dredging through earth and soft limestone
rock for a distance of seventy-five miles, taking advantage, as does the
present drainage canal, of the Auton River, where it empties into
Cardenas Bay. That such a saving of time and distance will some day be
consummated is more than probable. Not only the economics and benefits
to be derived from such a shortening of miles between local points in
times of peace, but the strategic advantage of the short cut for naval
units in time of war, are more than manifest to any one at all familiar
with the geography of Cuba and the West Indies. Cuba, for commercial and
economical reasons, is deeply interested in the construction of a canal
that would make the Province of Matanzas an intersea gateway, not only
for her own coastwise trade, but for much of the northbound traffic that
in the near future will carry millions of tons of raw material from the
west coast of South America to the great manufacturing centers of the
North Atlantic.
Running parallel with the north shore, a short series of remarkable
hills rise abruptly from the surrounding level plain to an altitude of a
thousand feet or more. One of these is known as the “Pan de Matanzas,”
whose round, palm covered top may be seen for many miles at sea. Ships
coming from New York usually make this peak above the horizon before any
other part of the Island comes into view.
The Yumuri River, at some time in the remote geological past cut its way
through these hills and found exit in Matanzas Bay. The valley lying
between two of these parallel ridges, through which the Yumuri flows,
has been rendered famous by Alexander Humboldt, who visiting the spot in
the winter of 1800, traveling over most of South and Central America,
pronounced it the most beautiful valley in the world. No terms of praise
are too great to bestow on the Yumuri; but in truth it must be said that
Humboldt had never seen the Valley of Vinales, one hundred and thirty
miles west, or he would probably have hesitated in bestowing such
superlative praise on the Yumuri.
Only a few miles south of the Yumuri, another river known as the San
Juan has broken through the ridge which lies along the western shore,
and empties its waters into the bay. Another small stream, the Canima,
pouring its waters into the Bay, a little further east, flows through a
series of limestone cliffs covered with a wealth of tropical forest and
furnishes a source of recreation to visitors and many people of the
capital, who make excursions to the head of navigation in motor
launches.
The Province has an average length of about 70 miles, with a width from
north to south of fifty miles, and forms a fairly regular parallelogram.
From the center of the coast line a narrow neck of land, known as the
Punta Hicaco, projects out toward the northeast for some fifteen miles,
inclosing the Bay of Cardenas on the west. The outer shore of this strip
of land, known as El Veradero, forms the finest bathing beach in all
Cuba, to which those who do not find it convenient to visit the United
States in summer, can come during the warmer months.
A chain of islands varying in size from little keys of a half acre to
that of Cayo Romano, seventy miles long, extends from a few miles east
of Punta Hicaco, along the north shore of Cuba to the Harbor of
Nuevitas, a distance of three hundred miles. The Bay of Cardenas,
although large in extent is rather shallow in comparison with most
harbors of Cuba. Extensive dredging, however, has rendered it available
for steamers of 20-foot draft.
The southern boundary of the Province is formed by the River Gonzalo,
fairly deep throughout half its length, but obstructed by shoals at the
mouth. The upper extension of this stream, known as Hanabana, flows
along the larger part of its eastern boundary. Just south of the Gonzalo
River lies the great Cienaga de Zapato, or Swamp of the Shoe, which
belongs to the Province of Santa Clara. The land along the northern bank
of the river is also low and marshy, with sharp limestone rocks
frequently cropping out on the surface. Of navigable rivers, Matanzas
has really none worthy of mention but with railroads it is quite well
supplied.
The surface as a whole is slightly rolling and has long been under
cultivation, especially in the production of sugar cane, for which
nearly all of this section is excellently adapted. There are forty sugar
plantations in active operation in Matanzas Province, producing in 1917
over four million sacks. The cultivation of sugar cane, as in other
provinces, is the chief source of wealth and yields the greatest
revenue.
In recent years, or since revolutions have practically destroyed the
industries of Yucatan, capital has been attracted to the cultivation of
henequen, and to the extraction of the fibre known as sisal, from which
not only rope and cables are made, but also binding twine, so essential
to the wheat crop of the United States.
Leaving the city of Cardenas, which promises soon to be another great
sisal center, and traveling west over the automobile drive towards
Matanzas, a perfect panorama of growing henequen is spread out on both
sides of the road as far as the eye can reach. The peculiar bluish green
color of the fields of this valuable textile plant, dotted as they are
with royal palms, produce a fascinating effect as one passes through
league after league of henequen.
There are many limestone hills, plateaus and plains in Matanzas
Province, whose surface, covered with a thin layer of rich red soil, is
especially adapted to the growth and cultivation of henequen, and it is
quite possible that the sisal industry, in a short time, may equal if
not excel in importance the sugar industry of the province.
Some twenty years ago a complete plant was established in the city of
Matanzas for the manufacture of cables, cordage and binding twine for
the local market. Thousands of acres of barren hillsides south of the
city were planted in henequen at that time, and have since furnished
enough raw material to keep this rope factory going throughout the
entire year. The decortator, or machine by which the sisal is separated
from the pulp of the leaves, is located near the crest of the hill,
about a half a mile back of the factory. From this point down to the
plain below, the green fresh sisal is conveyed by gravity in iron
baskets, where it is received by women and spread out on wire lines to
dry. Twenty-four hours later it is carried into the factory and there
spun into rope of all sizes, from binding twine to the twelve-inch
hawsers. Water was found alongside the factory only a few feet below the
surface, where an underground stream furnishes an inexhaustible supply.
Several millions were invested in the Matanzas henequen industry,
started by a company of Germans, who recently sold out to local and
foreign capitalists. It is said that the capacity of the plant will be
greatly increased.
The city of Matanzas, capital of the Province, is spread out over the
side and along the base of the low hill that forms the western shore of
the Bay. Although not possessing the wealth of Havana, the general
appearance of the city, with its substantial stone buildings, gives
every evidence of prosperity and comfort. Its population numbers
approximately 40,000, the greater part of whom are interested in sugar,
henequen and other local industries of the section.
Matanzas was first settled in 1693, but the modern city is laid out with
wide streets, the oldest of which as usual radiate from the central
plaza or city park, a quaint square ornamented with oriental palms and
tropical flowers. The most pretentious drive of this provincial capital,
however, has been built along the shore of the bay, a beautiful wide
avenue lined with laurels and with statues of various local heroes,
which add greatly to its interest. The view from the opposite side of
the bay is excelled only by that of Havana from the heights of Cabanas.
Just back of the City, or rather on the edge of its northwestern
boundary, perched on the front of a commanding promontory known as La
Loma de Monserrate, is located a quaint little cathedral dedicated to
the Virgin of El Cobre. The altar and background of the nave are
constructed of cork, brought from Spain for that purpose many years ago.
From the crest of this flat topped hill, protected on the north by a
stone wall, with spacious seats of the same material, under the shade of
laurel trees, the traveller has spread before him a beautiful view
of the Yumuri Valley, over which Humboldt gazed with admiration some
hundred years ago.
[Illustration: SAN JUAN RIVER, MATANZAS
Second only to Havana itself on the northern coast of Cuba is the great
commercial and residence city of Matanzas. Instead of standing upon the
shore of a land-locked bay, however, Matanzas is built on the banks of
the San Juan River, a broad, deep stream affording admirable facilities
for navigation, and lined for a considerable distance partly with
handsome houses and business buildings and partly with busy docks and
wharves, thronged with vessels of all descriptions.]
Leading from the Capital are several very beautiful automobile drives;
one reaching out towards the north and rounding the eastern terminus of
the Yumuri Valley, gives a beautiful view of that charming basin as it
stretches away toward the west.
Another delightful drive sweeps along the south shore towards Cardenas.
A few miles from Matanzas, however, a sharp turn to the right leads up
on to the summit of the ridge south of Matanzas. The drive passes
through the long stretches of henequen fields whose plants furnish the
fibre to the factory near the railway station.
On the crest of the plateau, under the shade of a small grove of trees,
is found an odd little building that serves as the entrance to the
Bellamar Caves. This famous underground resort is quite well known to
tourists who visit Cuba in the winter season. Visitors are lowered by
means of an elevator to a depth considerably below the level of the sea,
after which guides take the party in charge and lead the way through
several miles of interesting underground passages, ornamented with
stalactites, stalagmites and other beautiful formations peculiar to
those old time waterways that forced their tortuous channels through the
bowels of the earth thousands of years ago.
Many of these formations are of a peculiar pearl white with a delicate
texture that resembles Parian marble and gives a metal-like ring when
struck. The entire cave is lighted with electricity and entrance to the
more inaccessible spots has been rendered possible through artificial
steps and balustrades. The city of Matanzas furnished an interesting and
pleasant spot in which the tourist can spend a few days agreeably.
The harbor of Matanzas is a wide mouthed roadstead, cutting back from
the Atlantic some five or six miles with a width varying from three to
four. Dredging within recent years has greatly improved the port,
although with deep draft vessels, lightering is still necessary to
convey freight from the warehouses out to the various places of
anchorage.
[Illustration: CITY HALL AND PLAZA, CARDENAS]
The view of the City, covering the slopes of the hills on the west as
you enter the bay, is very attractive. Since the Province of Matanzas
has no harbors on the south coast, nearly all the sugar produced in her
forty big mills is shipped from either Matanzas or Cardenas, both of
which are connected with railroads that tap the various agricultural
sections lying south of them.
The second city of the Province, Cardenas, is located on Cardenas Bay, a
large and well protected harbor thirty miles east of Matanzas. In
comparison with most of the harbors, however, it is comparatively
shallow, needing a good deal of dredging to make it available for deep
draft vessels. Cardenas, like Matanzas, is comparatively modern, with
wide streets, regularly laid out. The old square, with its statue of
Columbus, has been recently remodeled at considerable cost.
The first serious indication of revolt on the part of the Cuban people
against the rule of Spain, was started here by General Narciso Lopez,
who landed at Cardenas with 600 men, mostly Americans from New Orleans,
on May 19, 1850. Within a few hours they had captured the Spanish
garrison and made prisoners of Governor Serrute and several of his
officials. The city was theirs, but to the unspeakable chagrin of
General Lopez, only one man came to his aid on Cuban soil, and before
nightfall, after defeating a Spanish column sent to oppose him, the
disappointed revolutionist abandoned the city, and with his followers
embarked for Key West.
It was on May 11, 1898, that Cardenas Bay became the scene of an
engagement between blockading vessels of the United States fleet and the
Spanish batteries, in which Ensign Worth Badgley was killed, he being
the first officer to lose his life in the war.
The exportation of sugar from the rich lands tributary to this bay has
always given Cardenas importance as a shipping point and rendered it,
for a city of only 30,000, quite a wealthy and prosperous community.
Many beautiful residences have been built along its stately avenues, and
the great henequen industry recently started in the great fields to the
west will add, undoubtedly, to the wealth of the locality. Splendid
stone warehouses line the shore for a mile or more, with a capacity
sufficient to hold in storage while necessary the enormous crop of sugar
that is produced in the province.
The presence of naphtha and many surface indications of oil deposits
south and east of the City of Cardenas have rendered that section
attractive as a field of exploration. Up to the present time, however,
no paying wells have been found, although many expert oil men are still
confident that the entire district from Cardenas to Itabo, and even
further east, will some day prove a valuable field for petroleum
products.
Midway between Cardenas and the City of Matanzas, just north of the
beautiful highway connecting these two cities, rises a range of low
serpentine hills, whose altitude is approximately five hundred feet.
These peculiarly symmetrical, round, loaf-like elevations above the
level surface of the surrounding country, are covered with a short
scrubby growth of thorny brush, and several varieties of maguey, of the
century plant family. Nothing else will grow on these serpentine hills;
hence in most respects they are decidedly unattractive. Since the
beginning of the international war, however, and the great demand for
chrome, some local mineralogists noted that little streams and rivulets
running down these hills left deposits of a peculiar black, glistening
sand. This sand, when analyzed, proved to come from the erosion of
chromite, the mineral so much in demand by the smelting industry of the
United States for hardening steel. In the spring of 1918 two well-known
mining engineers and geologists, with instructions from Washington,
visited several of these serpentine hills and found valuable deposits of
chromite that will probably furnish a very profitable source of this
much sought-for mineral and add greatly to the mining industry of this
province.
During the War of Independence, Generals Antonio Maceo and Maximo Gomez
led the invading columns of the Revolutionary Army into this Province
for the first time, in the fall of 1896. The great beds of dead leaves
lying between rows of cane, dried by the November winds, formed useful
material for the insurgent armies. The torch once applied to this vast
tinder box, with the prevailing easterly winds, all Matanzas was aflame.
Under cover of the great canopy of smoke which rose over the land, the
invading armies of the Occident swept rapidly on through the Province,
fighting only when compelled to, since the object of the invasion was to
carry the war into Havana and Pinar del Rio, where Revolution had never
before been known.
The vast cane fields that today line the railroad tracks on both sides,
bear no evidence of the ravages of Revolution, while handsome modern
mills, many of which have been erected since the beginning of the great
European War of 1914, have helped to feed the world with sugar that
could be obtained in sufficient quantities in no other place.