320 _Troglodytæ_.

The Shelluhs of the Atlas, south-east of Santa Cruz, in Suse,

during the rainy season, from November till February inclusive,

live in caves and excavations in the rocks and earth; laying up

provisions sufficient for that period, until the snow begins to

melt. The Berebbers of North Atlas have followed the same custom

from time immemorial.

_Police of West Barbary_.

When the present Emperor came to the throne, he gave indefatigable

attention to the police. He wished, he said, to make the roads safe

for travellers, from the Desert, or Sahara, to the shores of the

Mediterranean. He was vigilant in discovering thefts, and rigorous

in punishing them. If any one was robbed, he had only to report it

to the Emperor, who would forthwith order the douar where the

robbery was committed to restore the sum stolen, and to pay a fine

to the treasury of the same amount. By adhering strictly to this

system, he improved the revenue, and made travelling perfectly

safe; so that one may travel now (1805), without danger, with

property or money, from one end of the empire to the other. Before

this system of policy was renewed, (for it is an old law of the

land,) travellers with property were obliged to have a _statta_:

thus, if a caravan was going from Terodant or Marocco to Fas, it

took a _statta;_ that is, two men, natives of the district of

321 Rahamena, who accompanied the caravan in safety to the confines of

their territory; they then received a remuneration, and delivered

over the caravan to two men of Abda, who conducted it to the border

of Duquella: it was then delivered into the hands of two Duquella

Arabs; and so it went through the different provinces till it

reached Fas, under the protection, through each province, of a

_statta_, each of which _statta_ receives a remuneration. So that,

by the time of arrival at Fas, the merchandise was sometimes

subject to a charge of 8 or 10 per cent. for _statta_ or convoy

through the various provinces.

Before the Emperor Soliman thus established his authority, caravans

of gums, almonds, ostrich feathers, gold-dust, &c. &c. from Suse,

were sometimes twenty days going from Santa Cruz to Mogodor, a

distance of less than one hundred miles, the _statta_ being changed

and paid at the entrance of every kabyl, of which there are twelve

in the province of Haha alone; the camels being also changed at

every change of _statta_, increased the charge on the merchandise

to an immoderate amount. It would be a great acquisition to

England, if His Majesty were to negociate with the Emperor of

Marocco for the port of Santa Cruz; for the province of Suse

produces in abundance olive oil, almonds, and gums; worm-seed,

annis-seed, cummin-seed, and orchilla; oranges, grapes,

pomegranates, figs, melons, &c. This port was farmed, during the

reign of Muley Ismael, for an annual stipend. It is the key to

322 Sudan, and a communication might be opened on an extensive scale

from hence with Timbuctoo, Housa, Wangara, and other regions of

Sudan, so as to supply, in a few years, the whole of the interior

of Africa with British and East-India manufactures.

_Muley Abdrahaman ben Muhamed_.

This prince, who was elder brother of the present Emperor Soliman,

had accumulated considerable treasure in executing the office of

(_khalif_) viceroy of the provinces of Duquella, Abda, and Shedma.

His father, jealous of his son's power, when supported by a command

of treasure, had recourse to the usual means of transferring it to

the imperial treasury. It is held as law in this country, that

little is sufficient for every purpose of life. When property

becomes accumulated, it is alleged that more than a sufficiency is

derogatory of the principles laid down in the Koran, and ought to

revolve to the national treasury, there to be deposited as a fund

in reserve against the invasion of the country by the Europeans, an

event, which they are quite sure, from an ancient tradition, will

happen at no very distant period.

Abdrahaman, however, equally avaricious with his father, objected

to deliver up his treasure; which so irritated the Sultan, that he

ordered a party of his negro soldiers to go to the Prince's house

and seize every thing valuable. These men, in their thirst for

plunder, out-ran their discretion, as it appears; for they

323 proceeded to examine the ladies in the Horem, putting their base

hands on their persons, under the pretence of discovering if they

had concealed their jewels and gold. This outrage roused the

Prince's indignation and he lost no time in absenting himself for

ever from his father's dominions, for this insult on his

dignity.--"If my father," said the Prince, "had taken my treasure,

it would have passed from my hands to his; but to permit the

ignoble hands of slaves to offer me such an indignity, is more than

I can or will suffer." Abdrahaman therefore emigrated to the

province of Lower Suse, on the confines of Sahara, where he

remained encamped, ready, upon any alarm, at a moment's notice, to

penetrate into the Desert. He had always two _heiries_ ready

saddled at the gate of his (_keyma_) tent; one for carrying his

treasure, viz. gold dust and jewels, and the other for himself to

ride, on any emergency. Many fakeers were sent from the Sultan to

the Prince; with the most solemn assurances of his reconciliation,

and with urgent solicitations to him to return; but the Prince

never forgave or forgot the insult.

_Anecdote of Muley Ismael_.

Muley Ismael compared his subjects to a bag full of rats.--"If you

let them rest," said the warrior, "they will gnaw a hole in it:

324 keep them moving, and no evil will happen." So his subjects, if

kept continually occupied, the government went on well; but if left

quiet, seditions would quickly arise. This sultan was always in the

tented-field: he would say, that he should not return to his palace

until the tents were rotten. He kept his army incessantly occupied

in making plantations of olives, or in building: rest and rebellion

were with him synonymous terms.

Before the Portuguese transplanted their African colonies to South

America, they had penetrated far into West Barbary; they frequently

made incursions into the country from Mazagan to Marocco, and

eastward of that city. They had a church near Diminet, on the

declivity of the Atlas, about thirty-five miles east of Marocco,

which is still existing: it is a kind of sanctuary; the Berebbers

say it is haunted; they will not approach it. There is said to be

an inscription on the building in Roman characters, over the

entrance; but I never could ascertain what it is.

_Library at Fas_.

When the present Emperor came to the throne there was a very

extensive and valuable library of Arabic manuscripts at Fas,

consisting of many thousand volumes. Some of the more intelligent

literary Moors are acquainted with events that happened formerly,

325 during the time of the Roman power, which Europeans do not possess.

Abdrahaman ben Nassar, bashaw of Abda, was perfectly acquainted

with Livy and Tacitus, and had read those works from the library at

Fas. It is more than probable that the works of these authors, as

well as those of many other Romans and Greeks, are to be found

translated into the Arabic language, in the hands of private

individuals in West and in South Barbary. This library was

dispersed at the accession of Muley Soliman, and books commenting

on the Koran only were retained; the rest were burned or dispersed

among the natives.

_Deism_.

Deism was very prevalent throughout the empire. When the present

Emperor Soliman came to the throne, the deists went about in large

numbers, exclaiming, _La Allah ila Allah_, "There is no God but

God." The Emperor soon silenced these people, by proclaiming that

if any should be found uttering this truth, without adding,

"Muhamed is his prophet," should ([199]_ekul lassah_) be beat. The

sect soon disappeared.

[Footnote 199: This punishment is inflicted by two men, one on

each side; the culprit is stretched naked on the ground, and

beat on the back unmercifully, with sticks two yards long, and

as thick as a finger.]

326

_Muhamedan Loyalty_.

An alkaid of a district in the province of Abda, when that province

submitted to the Emperor, went to His Majesty, taking with him the

fruit of his government, viz. 100,000 dollars. He prostrated

himself before the Emperor, and announced that he had brought this

money to the Muselman treasury, being what he had collected since

the death of the Emperor's father. "I have lived splendidly, and

have never wanted any thing, or I should have brought Your Majesty

much more treasure." "You have been," said the Emperor, "a faithful

servant, and you shall be rewarded." He was promoted to a

government, and had many opportunities of refunding his loss. A

large sum was returned to him for his fidelity.

_Cairo_.

The city of El Kahira is called by Europeans Cairo. When Kairo was

founded, in the 359th year of the Hejra, the planet Mars was in

ascension; and it is Mars who conquers the universe: "therefore,"

said Moaz, (the son of El Mansor) to _his_ son, "I have given it

the name of El-Kahira."[200]

[Footnote 200: El Kahira is the Arabic for the planet Mars, and

signifies _victorious_.]

327

_Races of Men constituting the Inhabitants of West and South

Barbary, and that Part of Bled el Jereed, called Tafilelt and Sejin

Messa, east of the Atlas, forming the Territories of the present

Emperor of Marocco_.

_The Moors_, who inhabit the towns on the coast, and the cities of

Fas, Mequinas, Marocco, and Terodant; who speak a corrupt Arabic

language.

_The Berebbers_, who appear to be the Aborigines, and who retain

precisely the same character that was anciently given of the

Mauritanians by Sallust. These people inhabit the mountains of

Atlas, north of the city of Marocco, and have a language peculiar

to themselves. They are a hardy race of warriors, as artful as they

are indefatigable in war; when attacked by the imperial troops,

they defend themselves valiantly; and, by stratagem and device,

often surprise and defeat the Emperor's best troops, the _abeed

Seedy Bukaree_. They call the Negro and Arab troops of the Emperor,

(_mâden el grudder_), a mine of deceit, and never trust to their

vows and promises, even if they swear by the Koran. They are a

restless turbulent race, and have never been conquered. They have

adopted the Muhamedan doctrines.

_The Shelluhs_, or inhabitants of the Atlas, who dwell in houses in

the mountains south of Marocco, in the province of Haha, and in

328 part of Suse. These are a weaker race, not so athletic and robust

as the Berebbers. Their language has been represented to be similar

to that of the Berebbers, but that is evidently a mistake; I have

travelled through their country, and through the country of the

Berebbers, and have conversed with hundreds, nay, I may say, with

thousands of them: I have no hesitation in declaring them to be a

different race. Their language, costume, and habits differ; the

Shelluhs, however, possess the same art and duplicity with the

Berebbers.

_The Arabs_, who live in _douars_ of tents, and inhabit the immense

plains west of the Atlas, are the agriculturists of the country.

They form the principal population of this terrestrial paradise;

they are for the most part emigrations from the Sahara, several

centuries ago, and speak the true Arabic language. These are a fine

race of men, possessing, in a superlative degree, some of the

noblest qualities of the human race. To these may be added

_The Jews_, who wear a distinguishing costume, and a black cap;

they are all engaged in trade, and form one-seventh of the

population of the walled habitations. They are held in great

contempt, and are treated very rudely by the Arabs, and therefore

are seldom met with among the encampments of that people.

A _douar_ is a village of tents; these tents are made of goats' and

camels' hair; they are made by the females, are of a close texture,

329 extremely warm, and impervious to the rain: thus they are cool in

the summer, and warm in the rainy season. In countries exposed to

the attacks of neighbouring kabyles, they are arranged in a

circular form, covering sometimes several acres of ground, having a

large keyma or Arab tent in the centre of the circle, which serves

for a _jamma_, or meeting for morning and evening prayers, and at

other times for an _emdursa_, or seminary, where the Muhamedan

youth are taught to read the Koran, and to write, as they call it,

(_Sultan men Elsen_) the sultan of languages, or language of

languages. The tent-pegs of the respective tents are indented

within each other, so that the cattle cannot go out or in;

moreover, a hedge of thorny bushes encircles the whole, secured by

staves drove into the ground. The camels, horses, mules, horned

cattle, sheep, and goats, are all inclosed in a division of the

circular area during the night, and a fire is kept all night, to

keep off the lions and wild beasts. The incessant barking of dogs,

which are very numerous among the Arabs, prevent the travellers

unaccustomed to these habitations from sleeping.

_Various Modes of Intoxication_.

All nations have some method of getting rid of reason, for the

purpose of indulging in the vacuum and temporary independence

produced by intoxication. We, of Europe, have recourse to wine to

effect this purpose: the opulent indulge in the libations of

330 claret, burgundy, and champagne; the middling classes have recourse

to brandy, rum, and gin; but the African effects this purpose at

far less expense. A muselman procures ample temporary relief from

worldly care for a mere trifle: he buys at the (_attara_), drug

shop, for a penny, a small pipe of _el keef or hashisha_; this

completely effects his purpose. The leaves of this drug, which is a

kind of hemp, are called _el hashisha_; the flower of the plant is

called _el keef_, and is much more powerful in its inebriating

quality than the _hashisha_, but a pipe of the latter will have as

powerful an effect as two or three bottles of wine. It is said,

that when the patient is under the influence of pleasant

imaginations, the fume of this drug increases the sensation into

the most pleasing delirium, engendering the most luxuriant images,

and promoting a voluptuous vacuum. But when the person's ill fate

tempts him to taste it in a melancholy mood, it protracts the

gloomy moments, and gives the woes of life a longer duration: he

utters sighs and lamentations, he apprehends nothing but misery and

misfortune, till the effect of the drug is exhausted, and he awakes

from his dream of woe.

_Division of Agricultural Property_.

Agricultural property is ascertained by a large stone laid at each

corner of a plantation of corn, a direct line is drawn from stone

321 to stone at the season of reaping; it has, perhaps, never been

known, that these partitions have been removed for the purpose of

encroachment; a mutual confidence, and a point of honour renders

this mode of discriminating the respective property of individuals

adequate to every purpose of hedge or ditch.

_Mines_.

The mountains that separate the province of Suse from that of

Draha, abound in iron, copper, and lead. Ketiwa, a district on the

declivity of Atlas, east of Terodant, contains also mines of lead

and brimstone; and saltpetre also, of a superior quality, abounds

in the neighbourhood of Terodant. In the same mountains, about

fifty or sixty miles south-west of Terodant, there are mines of

iron of a very malleable quality, equal to that of Biscay in Spain,

from which the people of Tagrasert manufacture gun-barrels, equal

to those made in Europe. At Elala in Suse, in the same ridge of

mountains, are several rich mines of copper, some of which are

impregnated with gold: they have also a rich silver mine, the metal

of which latter is cast in round lumps, weighing two or three

ounces each piece. I have bought of this silver at Santa Cruz, and

have paid Spanish dollars for it, weight for weight; it is very

pure. Mines of antimony and lead ore are also found in Suse,

332 impregnated with gold, some specimens of which I sent to England to

be analyzed; but being informed that it yielded gold sufficient

only to pay the expenses of purifying, I gave no farther attention

to it, although I have had reason to think, since then, that an

importation of the ore would amply pay the importer.

_Nyctalopia, Hemeralopia, or Night-blindness, called by the Arabs

Butelleese; and its Remedy_.

During my residence at Santa Cruz, I had a cousin with me who was

afflicted with this disorder. When the sun sat his blindness came

on, and continued till the rising sun. This youth was so afflicted,

during a month, with this disorder, that he could scarcely see his

way with a candle in his hand, so that it was quite painful to see

him groping about. An Arab of the Woled Abbusebah Kabyl, who retain

much of the science and art of their ancestors, and whose

prosperity I had promoted at Santa Cruz, by facilitating his

commercial adventures, communicated to me a simple remedy for this

disorder; I put no faith in it, for it was so simple that I was

disposed to think it an illusion. He called on me, however,

repeatedly, and finding I had not applied it, he brought it one

morning himself, and urged me to try it, I did so; and that same

evening the eyes of the youth were almost well, and his sight was

333 completely restored the following night. This ophthalmic affection,

in an Arabic translation of Hippocrates, is called _Butelleese;_

another translation of ancient date calls it _Shebkeret:_ the name,

however, by which it is known at the present day in Africa, is

_Butelleese:_ the Latins called it _Lusciosus_, which word denotes

precisely the disease, viz. one who sees imperfectly in the morning

and evening twilight, but whose vision is clear at broad day-light.

_Lusciosus ad lucernam non videt. Vesperi non videre quos lusciosos

appellant_. Plaut. Mil. Gl. ii. 3.

This ophthalmia has been by some denominated _hen-blindness_, from

the circumstance of hens' eyes being thus affected, when they are

unable to see to pick up small grains in the dusk of the evening. I

have frequently seen fowls thus affected soon after going to sea,

from the coast of Africa, after which they decline and grow sick. A

quantity of small gravel should be spread in their coops at sea,

which prevents this disorder, and will sometimes cure it. At the

commencement of this complaint, the circumstance that first engages

the patient's attention is the dimness of his eye-sight at

twilight: the nocturnal dimness of vision was such, in the instance

before-mentioned, that the youth could scarcely see, even with a

candle in his hand, which he described, as seen by him, as if it

were misty, or as glimmering in a thick fog. There was no external

disfiguration visible in the eyes, but they appeared as usual.

334

What the cause of this disorder was I am unable to say; but I have

often suspected that it was contracted from the shining of the sun

on the white terras of the house where my cousin used to go of a

morning to shoot _tibeebs_, a bird somewhat resembling the European

sparrow. This youth was rather of a weak or delicate constitution.

I did not repeat the above remedy, as the boy's eyes continued

well, without any defect in the vision at any time of the day or

night, till seven-and-twenty days had elapsed, when the disorder

returned. I procured the remedy again, and he took it; it had the

same effect as before; he took it again, and then continued well

for a month. It again returned a third time, and was cured by one

single administration, after which it entirely disappeared, and

never returned. Some time after this, I was informed that the

British fleet in the Mediterranean was affected with this disorder;

that one-tenth, or more, of the crews of our ships had laboured

under it; and, on my return to England, I was urged to represent to

His Majesty's ministers, that I had an infallible remedy for the

disorder. I was referred to Doctor Harness, of the Transport Board.

I waited on the Doctor, and afterwards corresponded with him. He

appeared very desirous of knowing the remedy; but he was not at

liberty to grant me any remuneration for it. I, however, offered to

discover it, on being reimbursed the sum which the remedy cost me,

335 on experimental proof being produced of its infallibility; which

proposition was rejected by the Transport Board in August, 1812,

who informed me at the same time, that the Lords Commissioners of

the Admiralty did not judge proper to grant the sum required by me

for the discovery of the remedy for Nyctalopia, which, I should

add, was between 500_l_. and 600_l_. The remedy, therefore, remains

a secret to this day.

A celebrated electrician and galvanist having conversed with me

lately respecting this remedy for Nyctalopia, suggested to me the

probability, that the same remedy might be effectual also in _gutta

serena_, as both those disorders are known to proceed from a defect

in the optic nerve. This opinion he corroborated, by quoting, in

confirmation of it, the opinion of a well-known author. The

electrician perceiving my incredulity, or more properly, my

ignorance of the wonderful connection that exists between the

intestines and the head, was prompted, as I verily believe, by a

philanthropic disposition; and actually proved to me,

experimentally, the influence which the eyes have on the

intestines, and _vice versa_. A patient with a _gutta serena_, who

had been, as he informed me, twelve months under the hands of a

celebrated oculist, was recommended by the latter, as a last

resource, to try galvanism. He had received no benefit whatever

whilst under the direction of the oculist above alluded to, but his

intestines were intolerably deranged by the effects of the mercury

336 which he had taken. This gentleman galvanised his eyes, and the

man, who is a gunsmith, told me, that when he first went to have

the operation performed, he could not see the red border round the

hearth-rug in the front parlour, but when he returned into that

room, after having been galvanised, he assured me he saw it

plainly. He moreover declared that his bowels had been, and then

were, in a very deranged state, from the effects of the mercury

which he had taken, but that he felt incredible relief after having

been galvanised, and that, two or three days afterwards, they were

quite restored to health and strength. Being thus satisfied with

the influence that so wonderfully exists between the intestines and

the eyes, I am now making arrangements with the same gentleman, to

administer the remedy for the benefit, _as we hope_, of patients

afflicted with _gutta serena_. But I now declare to the public a

third time, that the remedy is simple, safe, and effectual, and

that I am ready and desirous of administering it to any one who may

choose to apply for it, who is afflicted with the disorder, with my

positive assurances, that it will effect a cure in eight-and-forty

hours at the utmost, but probably in twenty-four.

_Vaccination._

Intelligence received from West Barbary was instrumental in

337 promoting the adoption of vaccination. In the latter years of the

last century, the small-pox pervaded West and South Barbary. Mr.

Matra, the British consul-general to the Empire of Marocco, wrote

to me at that period officially, to procure him every information

possible, and to inform him if I could discover if cattle in this

country were subject to the small-pox. I made every inquiry without

delay, and I reported to His Excellency, (who was ambassador as

well as consul), that I had ascertained that the horses, mules,

asses, and oxen were subject in this country to the small-pox, of

which there could be no doubt, as the name given to the disorder in

the beasts of the field, was the same as that which designated the

small-pox in the human species, viz. JEDRIE. In consequence of this

information, confirmed afterwards by other enquiries, His

Excellency wrote to England on the subject, and, I believe, sent

some vaccine pus home; soon after which Dr. Jenner began his

experiments on vaccine inoculation, which have since been adopted

throughout Europe, and in great part of Asia and America. Although

I was thus instrumental in the propagation of vaccine inoculation,

yet I never asked for or received any remuneration; but I feel a

satisfaction in having been thus instrumental of good to mankind,

in this new and eligible system of inoculation, by means of which

human life has been preserved; for, according to Sir Gilbert

338 Blane's late statement, 23,134 lives have been saved during the

last 15 years by vaccination.

_Game_.

All kinds of game are plentiful in South and in West Barbary; viz.

_el gror_, a bird somewhat similar to the English partridge, but

unknown in Europe. I shot some of these birds for Doctor Brussonet,

the naturalist, who was intendant of the national garden of botany

at Montpelier, which that gentleman prepared in the oven, and sent

to the National Institute at Paris. He informed me this bird was a

non-descript. Hares, antelopes, woodcocks, snipes, plovers,

bustards. There is an abundance of partridges, red ducks as large

as geese, ducks, wigeon, and teal; curlews, in immense quantities,

are found in the flat parts of the country on the coast; immense

quantities of doves, wild pigeons, wood-pigeons, and large

sand-larks. Every person is at liberty to shoot; but the princes

and the great, consider field-sports beneath their dignity, except

hawking, and hunting the wild boar, the lion, and the tiger. The

Muhamedans do not prefer game to other food. When they have shot a

bird, they immediately cut its throat, that the blood may flow

freely; otherwise it is not lawful to eat it. Game is never seen in

the public markets. When they shoot for Europeans, they dispense

with the ceremony of cutting the throat of the game. They reproach

the Christians for eating such food, which they call (_m'jeefa_)

"strangled."

339

_Agriculture.--Mitferes._

The agriculturists, in all the Arab provinces throughout this

empire, have subterraneous caverns or apartments, generally in the

form of a cone, for the preservation of their corn during a

scarcity or famine. During my residence in this country, I have

investigated the method, and have learned the art of constructing

these depositories of grain. They season them before the corn is

deposited. They should not be constructed in a clay soil. In these

_mitferes_, throughout the Arab provinces of Duquella, Temsena,

Shawiya, &c. they preserve the corn sound during thirty years. I

have been present at the opening of them after the corn had been

deposited twenty-one years. It was perfectly sound. When these

depositories are opened, each family takes a portion of the grain,

so as to distribute the whole immediately; otherwise, in a few

months, if not consumed, it acquires a peculiar bad flavour, which

is called the _mitfere_ _twang_. To prevent this, an Arab, on

opening one of these depositaries, lends corn to all his

neighbours, and in his turn he receives it back again, when they

respectively open theirs. It is unnecessary to expatiate on the

expediency of constructing _mitferes_ in a country oftentimes

visited by locusts, the plague, drought, or inundation. There would

be a manifest policy in establishing similar granaries in our

340 colony in South Africa, where I understand they are visited by

locusts, and where the soil is similar to that of West and South

Barbary. All the valuable gums that Barbary now supplies Europe

with, and also many articles of commerce not yet known at the Cape,

might be procured from Barbary, and if transplanted to that colony,

would undoubtedly thrive, from the similarity of climate and soil.

_Laws of Hospitality_.

The territory of the Emperor of Marocco, west of the mountains of

Atlas, and from the shores of the Mediterranean to the confines of

the Shelluh province of Haha, is one continual corn-field,

inhabited by Arabs living in douars or encampments: much of the

ground, however, lies fallow. These encampments are fixed generally

at a considerable distance from the track of travellers, so that a

person unacquainted with this circumstance, would be disposed to

imagine the country thinly inhabited. The tents in safe countries,

where there is no fear of wild beasts, are pitched in a straight

line; but where lions or other ferocious animals are found, the

tents are disposed in a circular form; and thorny bushes are placed

round the douar, to prevent the visits of these unwelcome guests.

The Arabs are the agriculturists of the country, and are for the

most part emigrations from the original stock in Sahara. These

people have preserved from time immemorial the practice of open and

341 unrestrained hospitality. Their prophet confirmed these

propensities; and hospitality has been ever since, the predominant

virtue of the Arab. Accordingly, Muhamedans are entitled, through

their various journeys, to be entertained three days wherever they

sojourn. A traveller, therefore, when he chooses to rest from the

fatigue of his journey, goes to one of these douars and exclaims

(_Deef Allah_) "the guests of God." The sheik then comes forth from

his tent to receive him or them: (_Kheyma Deâf_) the travellers' or

guests' tent is appropriated to the stranger; food is brought to

him, agreeably to his rank in life, but always simple, good, and

wholesome. Here he may remain, if he chooses, for three days,

without being considered an intruder, and free of all expense

whatsoever. If he wishes to exceed the three days allowed by the

Muhamedan law, he must prove his poverty; which being done, he may

be entertained for a further period of time: but this latter is

quite optional; no man is compelled to entertain and provide food

for strangers and travellers, without remuneration, above three

days.

This hospitality extends not generally to all mankind, but to

Muhamedans only. A Christian or a Jew would be expected to pay a

trifle for his entertainment; although, in travelling through the

province of Suse, the Arabs have absolutely refused to take any

remuneration from me; but, that is not generally the case, nor

342 ought such conduct to be expected: in the instances

before-mentioned, these people considered themselves so much

benefited by the opening of the port of Santa Cruz, that they

thought they could not do enough for me. I was, therefore, every

where received in that province with the most cordial marks of

disinterested hospitality.

The laws of hospitality are sacred and inviolable. This I will

elucidate, by relating a circumstance that happened while I was at

Marocco. The Emperor was dissatisfied with the conduct of four

sheiks of Suse: they had not discharged the duties of their public

vocation, but had abused their office; the Emperor had issued

orders to arrest them, but by some means they got intelligence of

the orders; they therefore immediately ordered their horses, and

decamped in the evening from Marocco: they knew they should not be

safe any where from the Emperor's grasp, but under the protection

of the Khalif Muhamed ben Delemy, whom, however, they had in some

manner injured; nevertheless, knowing the noble character of the

man, they were resolved to try their fate; accordingly, they made

haste to reach the gates of his castle in Shtuka, before the

Emperor might discover their departure. They arrived, and

exclaiming _Deef Allah_, they were admitted. Delemy told them, that

although they had not behaved friendly to him, he would protect

them. His gates, he said, were always open to the children of

343 adversity, and they might depend on his protection. The Emperor

soon discovered, by diligent enquiry, what route they had taken,

and His Imperial Majesty urged Delemy to deliver them up; but the

latter expostulated, and observing that he should not deserve the

name of an Arabian sheik, if he degraded himself by giving up those

who had claimed his protection, in his own country: and he actually

granted them protection several months; till, at length, finding

they could not escape the hand of power, by any plan but that of

going into the Sahara, Delemy agreed to see them safe out of the

Emperor's dominions, and accompanied them to Akka, and beyond that

place, till they reached the Sahara, where, being perfectly safe,

he took his leave of them, and they exchanged _Salems_.

_Punishment for Murder._

If a man commits murder, the friends of the murdered claim redress

of the alkaid, if in a town,--of the bashaw of the province, if in

the country. If the murderer is discovered, he is taken into

custody, to suffer death, unless the relations of the murdered man

choose to compromise with the relations of the murderer: in which

case, a sum of money is paid to the former, and the matter is thus

settled.

_Insolvency Laws._

An insolvent cannot be detained in prison after his insolvency is

ascertained. He gives up his property to his creditors; but if he

344 should afterwards become a man of substance, his creditors can

claim the amount of their debts, deducting what they have already

received.

_Dances_.

The dances of the Arabs are peculiar to themselves. The youths

dance without females, and the females without youths. On all

marriages and rejoicings, music and dancing continue till the dawn

of day. Among the encampments of Arabs, in the summer season, the

whole country, at night, is in a blaze of light. The kettle-drum,

the triangle, the shepherd's pipe, and the _erbeb_ an instrument

resembling the fiddle, with two strings, form the band of music.

The youths form a double row of six or eight in each, and carry

themselves erect, with their arms hanging down close to their side;

moving obliquely to the right, then to the left, without taking

their feet from the ground, but moving their heels, then their toes

on the ground, advancing or gliding slowly along; keeping exact

time with the music: they then vault in the air, perform somersets

and various feats of agility. They sing also with great taste and

judgment, and some of them have excellent voices, being selected

for the purpose of affording entertainment to the spectators. The

ladies dance also in a similar manner, but without the vaulting and

somersets. They have a very elegant shawl-dance, which some of them

dance with great taste, and with much graceful movement.

345

_Circumcision._

The circumcision of male children is the general practice of

Islaemism; it is also used among some of the[201] _Khaffers_ or

_Cafers_ of North, Central, and South Africa. Circumcision is not a

practice ascribed to a principle of cleanliness, or any other

cause, but ancient usage. The period of performing this operation

among the Arabs is at the age of eight years.

[Footnote 201: _Khaffer_ (singular number) is an Arabic term,

applied to all who are not Muhamedans; all Pagans, Jews, and

Christians, are called _Khaffer_, _K'fer_ (plural) _Kaffir

billa_, an atheist: hence Caffraria, the name of the country

near the Cape of Good Hope.]

_Invoice from Timbuctoo to Santa Cruz._

Transport of ([202]_Alk Sudan_) gum of Sudan, bought at Timbuctoo,

on account of Messrs. James Jackson and Co. by their agent, L'Hage

Muhamed O----n, and dispatched to Akka by the spring (_akkaba_)

accumulated caravan, in February, 1794.

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