Santa Cruz, 20th March, 1792.
The road up the mountain of Santa Cruz was so dangerous and
impassable, that I undertook to repair it; accordingly, I agreed
with a Shilluh to make it safe and convenient for transporting
goods for shipment; and such was the eager desire of the people for
the establishment of the port, that hundreds brought stones and
assisted gratuitously in the construction of this road; so that
what would have cost in England thousands of pounds, was here
completed for a few hundred dollars.
The natives of this long-neglected territory were too acute not to
perceive the field of wealth that was thus opened to their
63 industry; they were convinced, from the traditions of their
fathers, of the incalculable benefits that would arise from a
commercial reciprocity; and they were determined to cultivate the
opportunity that was now offered to put them in possession of those
commercial advantages which their fathers had enjoyed before: the
benefits of which they had often related to their children, when
they talked of the prosperity and riches of the country during the
reign of Muley Ismael, when this port was before open to foreign
commerce. Agreeably to these well-founded anticipations, the genial
influence of commerce began, soon after my arrival, to manifest
itself throughout all ranks and denominations of men; _the whole
population visibly improved in their apparel and appearance; new
garments were now becoming common, and were every where substituted
for the rags and wretchedness before witnessed on landing here._
About four miles east of Santa Cruz, in a very romantic valley
surrounded by mountains, are found the ruins of a Portuguese tower.
_Tildie_, which is the name of this place, abounds in plantations
of the most delicious figs, grapes of an enormous size and
exquisite flavour, citrons, oranges, water-melons, walnuts,
apricots in great abundance, and peaches, &c. &c.
I invited a party of Arabs to accompany me to this delightful
retreat, where we dined: the Arabs killed two sheep; one they
roasted whole on a wooden spit, made on the spot; the other they
64 baked whole in an oven made for the purpose, in the following
manner: A large hole was dug in the ground; the inside was
plaistered with clay; after which they put fire in the hole till
the sides were dry; they then put the sheep in, and the top was
covered by clay in the form of an arch, fashioned and constructed
by the hand only; they afterwards made a large trough round this
temporary oven, and filled it with wood, to which they set fire.
The sheep was about three hours preparing in this manner, and it
was of exquisite flavour; the roasted mutton also was equally well
flavoured. No vegetables were served with this repast; for I had
desired that the fare should be precisely according to their own
custom; I therefore declined interfering with the arrangement of
the food. This mode of cooking is in high estimation with
travellers. These people never eat vegetables with their meat. When
they see Europeans eat a mouthful of meat, and then another of
vegetables, they express their surprise, observing that the taste
of the vegetables destroys the taste of the meat; and _vice versa_,
that the taste of the meat destroys the flavour of the vegetables!
The town of Santa Cruz, built on the summit of a branch of the
Atlas, by the Portuguese, is enclosed by a strong wall, fortified
with bastions mounting cannon; it is about a mile in circumference.
Half way down the mountain, on the western declivity, opposite the
sea, stands a battery, which defends the town, towards the north,
65 south, and west, at the foot of the mountain. Westward, on the
shore of the sea, stands a town, called by the Shelluhs, (the
natives of this country,) Agurem. There is a copious spring of
excellent water at Agurem, built and ornamented by the Portuguese,
when they had possession of this country, and called by them
_Fonté_, which name the town still retains, and is so called by
Europeans. The royal arms of Portugal are seen, carved in stone,
over the tank. Santa Cruz is supplied with spring-water from here,
having none but rain-water in the town, which is collected in the
rainy season, and preserved in subterraneous apartments, called
mitferes[96], one of which is attached to every respectable house,
and contains sufficient for the consumption of the family during
the year. The natural position of Santa Cruz is extremely strong,
perhaps not less so than Gibraltar, though not on a peninsula; and
it might, in the hands of an European power, be made impregnable
with very little expense; it might also be made a very convenient
and most advantageous depot for the establishment of an extensive
66 commerce with the whole of the interior of North Africa. An attempt
of this kind was made about forty or fifty years since, by the
Danes, who anchored with several ships, and landed a mile south of
Agurem; and with stones, all ready cut, and numbered, erected on an
eminence[97], by the dawn of the following day, a battery of twelve
guns. But by a stratagem of the bashaw El Hayanie, who at that time
was bashaw of Suse, they were rendered unable to retain possession
of their fort; their plans were accordingly disconcerted, and the
adventurers retreated, and returned to their ships.
[Footnote 96: The mitfere under my house at Santa Cruz,
contained, when full, four hundred pipes of water. At the
termination of the rainy season in March, it was generally
about two-thirds full, supplied from the flat roof or terras
during the rainy season. There was always much more than we
could consume, accordingly great quantities were distributed
among the poor, about the close of the season, or the autumn
previous to the next rainy season.]
[Footnote 97: Called Agadeer Arba.]
At the south-east extremity of the wall of Santa Cruz there is a
round battery, which protects the town from west to east; and might
be made to protect the valley to the east of the mountain. This
battery, with a little military skill, might be made to protect
every access to the town, not protected by the battery before
mentioned, which is situated about half way up the western
declivity of the mountain, and which commands or secures the fonte,
or spring, against an attack from any hostile force.
67