The narrow margin between the great parties in Indiana has made the

capital a centre of incessant political activity. The geographical

position of the city has also contributed to this, the state leaders

and managers being constant visitors. Every second man you meet is a

statesman; every third man is an orator. The largest social club in

Indiana exacts a promise of fidelity to the Republican party,--or did,

until insurgency made the close scrutiny of the members’ partisanship

impolite if not impolitic!--and within its portals chances and changes

of men and measures are discussed tirelessly. And the pilgrim is not

bored with local affairs; not a bit of it! Municipal dangers do not

trouble the Indianapolitan; his eye is on the White House, not the town

hall. The presence in the city through many years of men of national

prominence--Morton, Harrison, Hendricks, McDonald, English, Gresham,

Turpie, of the old order, and Fairbanks, Kern, Beveridge, and Marshall

in recent years--has kept Indianapolis to the fore as a political

centre. Geography is an important factor in the distribution of favors

by state conventions. Rivalry between the smaller towns is not so

marked as their united stand against the capital, though this feeling

seems to be abating. The city has had, at least twice, both United

States Senators; but governors have usually been summoned from the

country. Harrison was defeated for governor by a farmer (1876), in a

heated campaign, in which “Kid-Gloved Harrison” was held up to derision

by the adherents of “Blue-Jeans Williams.” And again, in 1880, a

similar situation was presented in the contest for the same office

between Albert G. Porter and Franklin Landers, both of Indianapolis,

though Landers stood ruggedly for the “blue jeans” idea.

The high tide of political interest was reached in the summer and fall

of 1888, when Harrison made his campaign for the presidency, largely

from his own doorstep. Marion County, of which Indianapolis is the

seat, was for many years Republican; but neither county nor city has

lately been “safely” Democratic or Republican. At the city election

held in October, 1904, a Democrat was elected mayor over a Republican

candidate who had been renominated in a “snap” convention, in the face

of aggressive opposition within his party. The issue was tautly drawn

between corruption and vice on the one hand and law and order on the

other. An independent candidate, who had also the Prohibition support,

received over five thousand votes.

The difficulties in the way of securing intelligent and honest city

government have, however, multiplied with the growth of the city. The

American municipal problem is as acutely presented in Indianapolis

as elsewhere. The more prosperous a city the less time have the

beneficiaries of its prosperity for self-government. It is much simpler

to allow politicians of gross incapacity and leagued with vice to

levy taxes and expend the income according to the devices and desires

of their own hearts and pockets than to find reputable and patriotic

citizens to administer the business. Here as elsewhere the party

system is indubitably at the root of the evil. It happens, indeed,

that Indianapolis is even more the victim of partisanship than other

cities of approximately the same size for the reason that both the old

political organizations feel that the loss of the city at a municipal

election jeopardizes the chances of success in general elections. Just

what effect the tariff and other national issues have upon street

cleaning and the policing of a city has never been explained. It is

interesting to note that the park board, whose members serve without

pay, has been, since the adoption of the city charter, a commission

of high intelligence and unassailable integrity. The standard having

been so established no mayor is likely soon to venture to consign this

board’s important and responsible functions to the common type of city

hall hangers-on.

It is one of the most maddening of the anomalies of American life

that municipal pride should exhaust its energy in the exploitation of

factory sites and the strident advertisement of the number of freight

cars handled in railroad yards, while the municipal corporation itself

is turned over to any band of charlatans and buccaneers that may seek

to capture it. In 1911-12 the municipal government had reached the

lowest ebb in the city’s history. It had become so preposterous and

improvement was so imperatively demanded that many citizens, both as

individuals and in organizations, began to interest themselves in plans

for reform. The hope here as elsewhere seems to be in the young men,

particularly of the college type, who find in local government a fine

exercise for their talents and zeal.

In this connection it may be said that the Indianapolis public

schools owe their marked excellence and efficiency to their complete

divorcement from political influence. This has not only assured the

public an intelligent and honest expenditure of school funds, but

it has created a corps spirit among the city’s teachers, admirable

in itself, and tending to cumulative benefits not yet realized. The

superintendent of schools has absolute power of appointment, and he is

accountable only to the commissioners, and they in turn are entirely

independent of the mayor and other city officers. Positions on the

school board are not sought by politicians. The incumbents serve

without pay, and the public evince a disposition to find good men and

to keep them in office.

The soldiers’ monument at Indianapolis is a testimony to the deep

impression made by the Civil War on the people of the State. The

monument is to Indianapolis what the Washington Monument is to the

national capital. The incoming traveler beholds it afar, and within the

city it is almost an inescapable thing, though with the advent of the

sky-scraper it is rapidly losing its fine dignity as the chief incident

of the skyline. It stands in a circular plaza that was originally a

park known as the “Governor’s Circle.” This was long ago abandoned as

a site for the governor’s mansion, but it offered an ideal spot for

a monument to Indiana soldiers, when, in 1887, the General Assembly

authorized its construction. The height of the monument from the street

level is two hundred and eighty-four feet and it stands on a stone

terrace one hundred and ten feet in diameter. The shaft is crowned by

a statue of Victory thirty-eight feet high. It is built throughout of

Indiana limestone. The fountains at the base, the heroic sculptured

groups “War” and “Peace,” and the bronze astragals representing the

army and navy, are admirable in design and execution. The whole effect

is one of poetic beauty and power. There is nothing cheap, tawdry, or

commonplace in this magnificent tribute of Indiana to her soldiers. The

monument is a memorial of the soldiers of all the wars in which Indiana

has participated. The veterans of the Civil War protested against this,

and the controversy was long and bitter; but the capture of Vincennes

from the British in 1779 is made to link Indiana to the war of the

Revolution; and the battle of Tippecanoe, to the war of 1812. The

war with Mexico, and seven thousand four hundred men enlisted for the

Spanish War are likewise remembered. It is, however, the war of the

Rebellion, whose effect on the social and political life of Indiana

was so tremendous, that gives the monument its great cause for being.

The white male population of Indiana in 1860 was 693,348; the total

enlistment of soldiers during the ensuing years of war was 210,497! The

names of these men lie safe for posterity in the base of the gray shaft.

The newspaper paragrapher has in recent years amused himself at the

expense of Indiana as a literary centre, but Indianapolis as a village

boasted writers of at least local reputation, and Coggeshall’s “Poets

and Poetry of the West” (1867) attributes half a dozen poets to the

Hoosier capital. The Indianapolis press has from the beginning been

distinguished by enterprise and decency, and in several instances by

vigorous independence. The literary quality of the city’s newspapers

was high, even in the early days, and the standard has not been

lowered. Poets with cloaks and canes were, in the eighties, pretty

prevalent in Market Street near the post-office, the habitat then of

most of the newspapers. The poets read their verses to one another and

cursed the magazines. A reporter for one of the papers, who had scored

the triumph of a poem in the “Atlantic,” was a man of mark among the

guild for years. The local wits stabbed the fledgeling bards with their

gentle ironies. A young woman of social prominence printed some verses

in an Indianapolis newspaper, and one of her acquaintances, when asked

for his opinion of them, said they were creditable and ought to be set

to music--and played as an instrumental piece! The wide popularity

attained by Mr. James Whitcomb Riley quickened the literary impulse,

and the fame of his elders and predecessors suffered severely from

the fact that he did not belong to the cloaked brigade. General Lew

Wallace never lived at Indianapolis save for a few years in boyhood,

while his father was governor, though toward the end of his life

he spent his winters there. Maurice Thompson’s muse scorned “paven

ground,” and he was little known at the capital even during his term

of office as state geologist, when he came to town frequently from his

home in Crawfordsville. Mr. Booth Tarkington, the most cosmopolitan of

Hoosiers, has lifted the banner anew for a younger generation through

his successful essays in fiction and the drama.

If you do not in this provincial capital meet an author at every

corner, you are at least never safe from men and women who read

books. In many Missouri River towns a stranger must still listen to

the old wail against the railroads; at Indianapolis he must listen to

politics, and possibly some one will ask his opinion of a sonnet, just

as though it were a cigar. A judge of the United States Court sitting

at Indianapolis, was in the habit of locking the door of his private

office and reading Horace to visiting attorneys. There was, indeed,

a time--_consule Planco_--when most of the federal officeholders

at Indianapolis were bookish men. Three successive clerks of the

federal courts were scholars; the pension agent was an enthusiastic

Shakespearean; the district attorney was a poet; and the master of

chancery a man of varied learning, who was so excellent a talker that,

when he met Lord Chief Justice Coleridge abroad, the English jurist

took the Hoosier with him on circuit, and wrote to the justice of the

American Supreme Court who had introduced them, to “send me another man

as good.”

It is possible for a community which may otherwise lack a true local

spirit to be unified through the possession of a sense of humor; and

even in periods of financial depression the town has always enjoyed

the saving grace of a cheerful, centralized intelligence. The first

tavern philosophers stood for this, and the courts of the early times

were enlivened by it,--as witness all Western chronicles. The Middle

Western people are preëminently humorous, particularly those of the

Southern strain from which Lincoln sprang. During all the years that

the Hoosier suffered the reproach of the outside world, the citizen of

the capital never failed to appreciate the joke when it was on himself;

and looking forth from the wicket of the city gate, he was still more

keenly appreciative when it was “on” his neighbors. The Hoosier is a

natural story-teller; he relishes a joke, and to talk is his ideal of

social enjoyment. This was true of the early Hoosier, and it is true

to-day of his successor at the capital. The Monday night meetings of

the Indianapolis Literary Club--organized in 1877 and with a continuous

existence to this time--have been marked by racy talk. The original

members are nearly all gone; but the sayings of a group of them--the

stiletto thrusts of Fishback, the lawyer; the droll inadvertences of

Livingston Howland, the judge; and the inimitable anecdotes of Myron

Reed, soldier and preacher--crept beyond the club’s walls and became

town property. This club is old and well seasoned. It is exclusive--so

much so that one of its luminaries remarked that if all of its members

should be expelled for any reason, none could hope to be readmitted.

It has entertained but four pilgrims from the outer world,--Matthew

Arnold, Dean Farrar, Joseph Parker, and John Fiske.

The Hoosier capital has always been susceptible to the charms of

oratory. Most of the great lecturers in the golden age of the American

lyceum were welcomed cordially at Indianapolis. The Indianapolis pulpit

has been served by many able men, and great store is still set by

preaching. When Henry Ward Beecher ministered to the congregation of

the Second Presbyterian Church (1838-46), his superior talents were

recognized and appreciated. He gave a series of seven lectures to the

young men of the city during the winter of 1843-44, on such subjects as

“Industry,” “Gamblers and Gambling,” “Popular Amusements,” etc., which

were published at Indianapolis immediately, in response to an urgent

request signed by thirteen prominent citizens.

The women of Indianapolis have aided greatly in fashioning the city

into an enlightened community. The wives and daughters of the founders

were often women of cultivation, and much in the character of the city

to-day is plainly traceable to their work and example. During the

Civil War they did valiant service in caring for the Indiana soldier.

They built for themselves in 1888 a building--the Propylæum--where

many clubs meet; and they were long the mainstay of the Indianapolis

Art Association, which, by a generous and unexpected bequest a few

years ago, now boasts a permanent museum and school. It is worth

remembering that the first woman’s club--in the West, at least--was

organized on Hoosier soil--at Robert Owen’s New Harmony--in 1859.

The women of the Hoosier capital have addressed themselves zealously

in many organizations to the study of all subjects related to good

government. The apathy bred of commercial success that has dulled the

civic consciousness of their fathers and husbands and brothers has had

the effect of stimulating their curiosity and quickening their energies

along lines of political and social development.

* * * * *

I have been retouching here and there this paper as it was written ten

years ago. In the intervening decade the population of Indianapolis has

increased 38.1 per cent, jumping from 169,161 to 233,650, and passing

both Providence and Louisville. Something of the Southern languor that

once seemed so charming--something of what the plodding citizens of

the mule-car days liked to call “atmosphere”--has passed. And yet the

changes are, after all, chiefly such as address the eye rather than

the spirit. There are more people, but there are more good people!

The coming of the army post has widened our political and social

horizons. The building of the Homeric speedway that has caused us to

be written large on the world’s pink sporting pages, and the invasion

of foreigners, have not seriously disturbed the old neighborliness,

kindliness, and homely cheer. Elsewhere in these pages I mention the

passing of the church as the bulwark behind which this community had

entrenched itself; and yet much the same spirituality that was once

observable endures, though known by new names.

The old virtues must still be dominant, for visitors sensitive to

such impressions seem to be conscious of their existence. Only to-day

Mr. Arnold Bennett, discoursing of America in “Harper’s Magazine,”

finds here exactly the things whose passing it is the local fashion

to deplore. In our maple-lined streets he was struck by the number of

detached houses, each with its own garden. He found in these homes “the

expression of a race incapable of looking foolish, of being giddy, of

running to extremes.” And I am cheered by his declaration of a belief

that in some of the comfortable parlors of our quiet thoroughfares

there are “minor millionaires who wonder whether, outsoaring the

ambition of a bit of property, they would be justified in creeping

downtown and buying a cheap automobile!” And I had been afraid that

every man among us with anything tangible enough to mortgage had

undertaken the task of advertising one of our chief industries by

modernizing Ezekiel’s vision of the wheels!

It is cheering to know that this pilgrim from the Five Towns thought

us worthy of a place in his odyssey, and that his snapshots reveal so

much of what my accustomed eyes sometimes fail to see. I am glad to

be reëstablished by so penetrating an observer in my old faith that

there are planted here on the West Fork of White River some of the

roots of “essential America.” If we are not typical Americans we offer

the nearest approach to it that I, in my incurable provincialism, know

where to lay hands on.

Experience and the Calendar

Experience and the Calendar

“USELESS, quite useless, young man,” said the doctor, pursing his

lips; and as he has a nice feeling for climax, he slapped the reins on

Dobbin’s broad back and placidly drove away.

Beneath that flapping gray hat his wrinkled face was unusually

severe. His eyes really seemed to flash resentment through his green

spectacles. The doctor’s remark related to my manipulation of a new

rose-sprayer which I had purchased this morning at the village hardware

store, and was directing against the pests on my crimson ramblers when

he paused to tell me that he had tried that identical device last year

and found it worthless. As his shabby old phaeton rounded the corner, I

turned the sprayer over to my young undergraduate friend Septimus, and

hurried in to set down a few truths about the doctor.

He is, as you may already have guessed, the venerable Doctor

Experience, of the well-known university that bears his name. He is

a person of quality and distinction, and the most quoted of all the

authorities on life and conduct. How empty the day would be in which

we did not hear some one say, “Experience has taught me--” In the

University of Experience the Doctor fills all the chairs; and all his

utterances, one may say, are _ex cathedra_.

He is as respectable for purposes of quotation as Thomas à Kempis or

Benjamin Franklin. We really imagine--we who are alumni of the old

doctor’s ivy-mantled knowledge-house, and who recall the austerity

of his curriculum and the frugality of Sunday evening tea at his

table--that his own courses were immensely profitable to us. We

remember well how he warned us against yielding to the persuasions

of the world, the flesh, and the devil, illustrating his points with

anecdotes from his own long and honorable career. He used to weep over

us, too, in a fashion somewhat dispiriting; but we loved him, and

sometimes as we sit in the winter twilight thinking of the days that

are no more, we recall him in a mood of affection and regret, and do

not mind at all that cheerless motto in the seal of the university

corporation, “_Experientia docet stultos_,” to which he invariably

calls attention after morning prayers.

“My young friends,” he says, “I hope and trust that my words may be

the means of saving you from much of the heartache and sorrow of this

world. When I was young--”

This phrase is the widely accepted signal for shuffling the feet and

looking bored. We turn away from the benign doctor at his reading-desk,

fumbling at that oft-repeated lecture which our fathers and

grandfathers remember and quote,--we turn our gaze to the open windows

and the sunlight. The philosophy of life is in process of making out

there,--a new philosophy for every hour, with infinite spirit and

color, and anon we hear bugles crying across the hills of our dreams.

“When I was young!” If we were not the politest imaginable body of

students,--we who take Doctor Experience’s course because it is (I

blush at the confession) a “snap,”--we should all be out of the window

and over the hills and far away.

The great weakness of Experience as a teacher lies in the fact that

truth is so alterable. We have hardly realized how utterly the snows

and roses of yesteryear vanish before the amiable book agent points

out to us the obsolete character of our most prized encyclopædia. All

books should be purchased with a view to their utility in lifting the

baby’s chin a proper distance above the breakfast table; for, quite

likely, this will soon become their sole office in the household.

Within a fifteen-minute walk of the window by which I write lives a

man who rejects utterly the idea that the world is round, and he is

by no means a fool. He is a far more interesting person, I dare say,

than Copernicus or Galileo ever was; and his strawberries are the

earliest and the best produced in our township. Truth, let us say, is a

continuing matter, and hope springeth eternal. This is where I parted

company with the revered doctor long ago. His inability to catch bass

in the creek isn’t going to keep me at home to-morrow morning. For all

I care, he may sit on his veranda and talk himself hoarse to his old

friend, Professor Killjoy, whose gum shoes and ear-muffs are a feature

of our village landscape.

When you and I, my brother, are called on to address the young, how

blithely we congratulate our hearers upon being the inheritors of the

wisdom of all the ages. This is one of the greatest of fallacies. The

twentieth century dawned upon American States that were bored by the

very thought of the Constitution, and willing to forget that venerable

document at least long enough to experiment with the Initiative, the

Referendum, and the Recall. What some Lord Chief Justice announced

as sound law a hundred years ago means nothing to commonwealths

that have risen since the motor-car began honking in the highway.

On a starry night in the spring of 1912 a veteran sea-captain, with

wireless warnings buttoned under his pea-jacket, sent the finest ship

in the world smashing into an iceberg. All the safety devices known

to railroading cannot prevent some engineer from occasionally trying

the experiment of running two trains on a single track. With the full

weight of the experience of a thousand years against him the teller

begins to transfer the bank’s money to his own pocket, knowing well the

hazard and the penalty.

We pretend to invoke dear old Experience as though he were a god,

fondly imagining that an honest impulse demands that we appeal to him

as an arbiter. But when we have submitted our case and listened to

his verdict, we express our thanks and go away and do exactly as we

please. We all carry our troubles to the friends whose sympathy we know

outweighs their wisdom. We want them to pat us on the back and tell us

that we are doing exactly right. If by any chance they are bold enough

to give us an honest judgment based on real convictions, we depart

with a grievance, our confidence shaken. We lean upon our friends, to

be sure; but we rely upon them to bail us out after the forts of folly

have crashed about our ears and we pine in the donjon, rather than on

their advice that might possibly have preserved us on the right side

of the barricade. And I may note here, that of all the offices that

man may undertake, that of the frank friend is the most thankless. The

frank friend! It is he who told you yesterday that you were looking

wretchedly ill. Doctor Experience had warned _him_; and he felt it to

be his duty to stop _you_ in your headlong plunge. To-morrow he will

drop in to tell you in gentle terms that your latest poem is--well, he

hates to say it--but he fears it isn’t up to your old mark! The frank

friend, you may remember, is Doctor Experience’s favorite pupil.

We are all trying to square wisdom with our own aims and errors.

Professional men, whose business is the giving of advice, are fully

aware of this. Death is the only arbiter who can enforce his own writs,

and it is not for man to speak a final word on any matter.

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