SIMPLE KNOTS AND BENDS
For convenience in handling rope and learning the various knots, ties,
and bends, we use the terms "standing part," "bight," and "end" (Fig.
3). The _Standing Part_ is the principal portion or longest part of
the rope; the _Bight_ is the part curved or bent while working or
handling; while the _End_ is that part used in forming the knot or
hitch. Before commencing work the loose ends or strands of a rope
should be "whipped" or "seized" to prevent the rope from unravelling;
and although an expert can readily tie almost any knot, make a splice,
or in fact do pretty nearly anything with a loose-ended rope, yet it
is a wise plan to invariably whip the end of every rope, cable, or
hawser to be handled, while a marline-spike, fid, or pointed stick
will also prove of great help in working rope.
[Illustration: FIG. 3.--Parts of rope.]
To whip or seize a rope-end, take a piece of twine or string and lay
it on the rope an inch or two from the end, pass the twine several
times around the rope, keeping the ends of the twine under the first
few turns to hold it in place; then make a large loop with the free
end of twine; bring it back to the rope and continue winding for three
or four turns around both rope and end of twine; and then finish by
drawing the loop tight by pulling on the free end (Fig. 4).
[Illustration: FIG. 4.--Whipping.]
All knots are begun by "loops" or rings commonly known to mariners as
"Cuckolds' Necks" (Fig. 5). These may be either overhand or underhand,
and when a seizing or fastening of twine is placed around the two
parts where they cross a useful rope ring known as a "clinch" is
formed (Fig. 6). If the loose end of the rope is passed over the
standing part and through the "cuckold's-neck," the simplest of all
knots, known as the "Overhand Knot," is made (Fig. 7). This drawn
tight appears as in Fig. 8, and while so simple this knot is
important, as it is frequently used in fastening the ends of yarns and
strands in splicing, whipping, and seizing. The "Figure-Eight Knot" is
almost as simple as the overhand and is plainly shown in Figs. 9 and
10. Only a step beyond the figure-eight and the overhand knots are the
"Square" and "Reefing" knots (Figs. 11 and 12). The square knot is
probably the most useful and widely used of any common knot and is the
best all-around knot known. It is very strong, never slips or becomes
jammed, and is readily untied. To make a square knot, take the ends of
the rope and pass the left end over and under the right end, then the
right over and under the left. If you once learn the simple formula of
"Left over," "Right over," you will never make a mistake and form the
despised "Granny," a most useless, bothersome, and deceptive makeshift
for any purpose (Fig. 13). The true "Reef Knot" is merely the square
knot with the bight of the left or right end used instead of the end
itself. This enables the knot to be "cast off" more readily than the
regular square knot (_A_, Fig. 12). Neither square nor reef knots,
however, are reliable when tying two ropes of unequal size together,
for under such conditions they will frequently slip and appear as in
Fig. 14, and sooner or later will pull apart. To prevent this the ends
may be tied or seized as shown in Fig. 15. A better way to join two
ropes of unequal diameter is to use the "Open-hand Knot." This knot is
shown in Fig. 16, and is very quickly and easily made; it never slips
or gives, but is rather large and clumsy, and if too great a strain
is put on the rope it is more likely to break at the knot than at any
other spot. The "Fisherman's Knot," shown in Fig. 17, is a good knot
and is formed by two simple overhand knots slipped over each rope, and
when drawn taut appears as in Fig. 18. This is an important and
valuable knot for anglers, as the two lines may be drawn apart by
taking hold of the ends, _A_, _B_, and a third line for a sinker, or
extra hook, may be inserted between them. In joining gut lines the
knot should be left slightly open and the space between wrapped with
silk. This is probably the strongest known method of fastening fine
lines.
[Illustration: FIG. 5.--Cuckolds' necks.]
[Illustration: FIG. 6.--Clinch.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 7 and 8.--Overhand knots.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 9 and 10.--Figure-eight knots.]
[Illustration: FIGS. 11 and 12.--Square knots.]
[Illustration: FIG. 13.--Granny knot.]
[Illustration: FIG. 14.--Slipped square knot.]
[Illustration: FIG. 15.--Square knot with ends seized.]
[Illustration: FIG. 16.--Open-hand knots.]
[Illustration: FIG. 17.--Fisherman's knot (making).]
[Illustration: FIG. 18.--Fisherman's knot (finished).]
The "Ordinary Knot," for fastening heavy ropes, is shown in Fig. 19.
It is made by forming a simple knot and then interlacing the other
rope or "following around," as shown in Fig. 20. This knot is very
strong, will not slip, is easy to make, and does not strain the
fibres of the rope. Moreover, ropes joined with this knot will pay
out, or hang, in a straight line. By whipping the ends to the standing
parts it becomes a neat and handsome knot (Fig. 21). The "Weaver's
Knot" (Fig. 22) is more useful in joining small lines, or twine, than
for rope, and for thread it is without doubt the best knot known. The
ends are crossed as in Fig. 23. The end _A_ is then looped back over
the end _B_, and the end _B_ is slipped through loop _C_ and drawn
tight.
[Illustration: FIG. 19.--Ordinary knot (finished).]
[Illustration: FIG. 20.--Ordinary knot (tying).]
[Illustration: FIG. 21.--Ordinary knot (seized).]
[Illustration: FIG. 22.--Weaver's knot (complete).]
[Illustration: FIG. 23.--Weaver's knot (tying).]
Another useful and handsome knot is illustrated in Fig. 24. This is a
variation of the figure-eight knot, already described, and is used
where there is too much rope, or where a simple knot is desired to
prevent the rope running through an eye, ring, or tackle-block. It is
made by forming a regular figure eight and then "following round" with
the other rope as in Fig. 25. It is then drawn taut and the ends
seized to the standing part if desired.
[Illustration: FIG. 24.--Double figure-eight knot (complete).]
[Illustration: FIG. 25.--Double figure-eight knot (tying).]
Sometimes we have occasion to join two heavy or stiff ropes or
hawsers, and for this purpose the "Garrick Bend" (Fig. 26) is
preeminently the best of all knots. To make this knot, form a bight by
laying the end of a rope on top of and across the standing part. Next
take the end of the other rope and pass it through this bight, first
down, then up, over the cross and down through the bight again, so
that it comes out on the opposite side from the other end, thus
bringing one end on top and the other below, as illustrated in Fig.
27. If the lines are very stiff or heavy the knot may be secured by
seizing the ends to the standing parts. A much simpler and a far
poorer knot is sometimes used in fastening two heavy ropes together.
This is a simple hitch within a loop, as illustrated in Fig. 28, but
while it has the advantage of being quickly and easily tied it is so
inferior to the Garrick bend that I advise all to adopt the latter in
its place.
[Illustration: FIG. 26.--Garrick bend (finished).]
[Illustration: FIG. 27.--Garrick bend (tying).]
[Illustration: FIG. 28.--Simple hitch (hawser).]
When two heavy lines are to be fastened for any considerable time, a
good method is to use the "Half-hitch and Seizing," shown in Fig. 29.
This is a secure and easy method of fastening ropes together and it
allows the rope to be handled more easily, and to pass around a winch
or to be coiled much more readily, than when other knots are used.
[Illustration: FIG. 29.--Half-hitch and seizing.]