ADVENTURES IN JAPAN.

For above two hundred years, the unknown millions of Japan have been

shut up in their own islands, forbidden, under the severest penalties,

either to admit foreigners on their shores, or themselves to visit any

other realm in the world. The Dutch are permitted to send two ships in

a year to the port of Nangasaki, where they are received with the

greatest precaution, and subjected to a surveillance even more

degrading than was that formerly endured by the Europeans at Canton.

Any other foreigner whom misfortune or inadvertence may land on their

shores, is doomed to perpetual imprisonment; and even if one of their

own people should pass twelve months out of the country, he is, on his

return, kept for life at the capital, and suffered no more to join his

family, or mingle at large in the business or social intercourse of

life. In pursuance of this policy, it is believed that the Japanese

government now holds in captivity several subjects of the United

States, and it is expected that an armament will be sent to rescue

them by force.

Since this announcement has been made, and the general expectation has

been raised that Japan will soon have to submit, like China, to

surrender its isolation, and enter into relations with the rest of the

civilised world, there has seasonably appeared an English reprint of a

work hitherto little known among us--a personal narrative of a

Japanese captivity of two years and a half, by an officer in the

Russian navy.[1] If we may judge from its details, our transatlantic

friends had need to keep all their eyes wide open in dealing with this

people.

The leading circumstances connected with Captain Golownin's captivity

were the following:--In the year 1803, the Chamberlain Resanoff was

sent by the Emperor Alexander, to endeavour to open friendly relations

with Japan, and sailed from the eastern coasts in a merchant vessel

belonging to the American Company. But receiving a peremptory message

of dismissal, and refusal of all intercourse, he returned to Okhotsk,

and died on his way to St Petersburg. Lieutenant Chwostoff, however,

who had commanded the vessel, put to sea again on his own

responsibility, attacked and destroyed several Japanese villages on

the Kurile Islands, and carried off some of the inhabitants. In the

year 1811, Captain Golownin, commander of the imperial war-sloop

_Diana_, lying at Kamtschatka, received orders from head-quarters to

make a particular survey of the southern Kurile Islands, and the coast

of Tartary. In pursuance of his instructions, he was sailing without

any flag near the coast of Eetooroop (Staaten), when he was met by

some Russian Kuriles, who informed him that they had been seized, and

were still detained prisoners, on account of the Chwostoff outrage.

They persuaded the captain to take one of them on board as an

interpreter, and proceed to Kunashir, to make such explanations as

might exonerate the Russian government in this matter. The Japanese

chief of the island further assured the Russians, that they could

obtain a supply of wood, water, and fresh provisions at Kunashir; and

he furnished them with a letter to its governor. The reception of the

_Diana_ at Kunashir was, in the first instance, a vigorous but

ineffective discharge of guns from the fortress, the walls of which

were so completely hung with striped cloth, that it was impossible to

form any opinion of the size or strength of the place. After some

interchange, however, of allegorical messages, conveyed by means of

drawings floated in empty casks, Golownin was invited on shore by the

beckoning of white fans. Concealing three brace of pistols in his

bosom, and leaving a well-armed boat close to the shore, with orders

that the men should watch his movements, and act on his slightest

signal, he ventured on a landing, accompanied by the Kurile Alexei and

a common sailor. The lieutenant-governor soon appeared. He was in

complete armour, and attended by two soldiers, one of whom carried his

long spear, and the other his cap or helmet, which was adorned with a

figure of the moon. 'It is scarcely possible,' says the narrator, 'to

conceive anything more ludicrous than the manner in which the governor

walked. His eyes were cast down and fixed on the earth, and his hands

pressed closely against his sides, whilst he proceeded at so slow a

pace, that he scarcely moved one foot beyond the other, and kept his

feet wide apart. I saluted him after the European fashion, upon which

he raised his left hand to his forehead, and bowed his whole body

towards the ground.'

In the conversation that ensued, the governor expressed his regret

that the ignorance of the Japanese respecting the object of this visit

should have occasioned them to fire upon the _Diana_. He then closely

interrogated the captain as to the course and objects of his voyage,

his name, the name of his emperor, and whether he knew anything of

Resanoff. On the first of these heads, Golownin deemed it prudent to

use some deception, and he stated that he was proceeding to St

Petersburg, from the eastern extremity of the Russian Empire; that

contrary winds had considerably lengthened his voyage; and that, being

greatly in want of wood and fresh water, he had been looking on the

coasts for a safe harbour where these might be procured, and had been

directed by an officer at Eetooroop to Kunashir. To all the other

questions, he returned suitable answers, which were carefully written

down. The conference ended most amicably, and the captain was invited

to smoke tobacco, and partake of some tea, sagi,[2] and caviar.

Everything was served on a separate dish, and presented by a different

individual, armed with a poniard and sabre; and these attendants,

instead of going away after handing anything to the guests, remained

standing near, till at length they were surrounded by a formidable

circle of armed men. Golownin would not stoop to betray alarm or

distrust, but having brought some French brandy as a present to the

governor, he desired his sailors to draw a bottle, and took this

opportunity of repeating his order, that they should hold themselves

in readiness. There appeared, however, no intention of resorting to

violence. When he prepared to depart, the governor presented a flask

of sagi, and some fresh fish, pointing out to him at the same time a

net which had been cast to procure a larger supply. He also gave him a

white fan, with which he was to beckon, as a sign of amity, when he

came on shore again. The whole draught of fish was sent on board in

the evening.

On the following day, the captain, according to appointment, paid

another visit on shore, accompanied by two officers, Alexei, and four

seamen carrying the presents intended for the Japanese. On this

occasion, the former precautions were dispensed with; the boat was

hauled up to the shore, and left with one seaman, while the rest of

the party proceeded to the castle. The result was, that after a

renewal of the friendly explanations and entertainments of the

preceding day, the treacherous Japanese threw off the mask, and made

prisoners of the whole party.

'The first thing done, was to tie our hands behind our backs, and

conduct us into an extensive but low building, which resembled a

barrack, and which was situated opposite to the tent in the direction

of the shore. Here we were placed on our knees, and bound in the

cruelest manner with cords about the thickness of a finger; and as

though this were not enough, another binding of smaller cords

followed, which was still more painful. The Japanese are exceedingly

expert at this work; and it would appear that they conform to some

precise regulation in binding their prisoners, for we were all tied

exactly in the same manner. There was the same number of knots and

nooses, and all at equal distances, on the cords with which each of us

was bound. There were loops round our breasts and necks; our elbows

almost touched each other, and our hands were firmly bound together.

From these fastenings proceeded a long cord, the end of which was held

by a Japanese, and which, on the slightest attempt to escape, required

only to be drawn to make the elbows come in contact with the greatest

pain, and to tighten the noose about the neck to such a degree as

almost to produce strangulation. Besides all this, they tied our legs

in two places--above the knees and above the ankles; they then passed

ropes from our necks over the cross-beams of the building, and drew

them so tight, that we found it impossible to move. Their next

operation was searching our pockets, out of which they took

everything, and then proceeded very quietly to smoke tobacco. While

they were binding us, the lieutenant-governor shewed himself twice,

and pointed to his mouth, to intimate, perhaps, that it was intended

to feed, not to kill us.'

After some hours, the legs and ankles of the prisoners were partially

loosed, and preparations were made for removing them to Matsmai, which

seems to be the head-quarters of government for the Kurile

dependencies of Japan. The journey, which occupied above a month, was

performed partly in boats, which were dragged along the shore, and

even for miles over the land; and partly on foot, the captives being

marched in file, each led with a cord by a particular conductor, and

having an armed soldier abreast of him. It was evident, however, that

whatever was rigorous in their treatment, was not prompted by personal

feelings of barbarity, but by the stringency of the law, which would

have made the guards answerable for their prisoners with their own

lives. They were always addressed with the greatest respect; and, as

soon as it was deemed safe, their hands, which were in a dreadfully

lacerated state, were unbound, and surgically treated; but not till

their persons had been again most carefully searched, that no piece of

metal might remain about them, lest they might contrive to destroy

themselves. Suicide is, in Japan, the fashionable mode of terminating

a life which cannot be prolonged but in circumstances of dishonour: to

rip up one's own bowels in such a case, wipes away every stain on the

character. The guards of the Russian captives not only used every

precaution against this, but carefully watched over their health and

comfort, carrying them over the shallowest pools and streamlets, lest

their feet should be wet, and assiduously beating off the gnats and

flies, which would have been annoying. At every village, crowds of

both sexes, young and old, turned out to see these unfortunate men;

but there was nothing like insult or mockery in the demeanour of

any--pity appeared to be the universal feeling: many begged permission

from the guards to offer sagi, comfits, fruits, and other delicacies;

and these were presented often with tears of compassion, as well as

gestures of respect.

The prison to which Golownin and his companions were finally committed

had been constructed expressly for their habitation in the town of

Matsmai. It was a quadrangular wooden building, 25 paces long, 15

broad, and 12 feet high. Three sides of it were dead-wall, the fourth

was formed of strong spars. Within this structure were two apartments,

formed likewise of wooden spars, so as to resemble cages: one was

appropriated to the officers, the other to the sailors and Alexei. The

building was surrounded by a high wall or paling, outside of which

were the kitchen, guard-house, &c., enclosed by another paling. This

outer enclosure was patrolled by common soldiers; but no one was

allowed within, except the physician, who visited daily, and the

orderly officers, who looked through the spars every half-hour. Of

course, it was rather a cold lodging; but, as winter advanced, a hole

was dug a few feet from each cage, built round with freestone, and

filled with sand, upon which charcoal was afterwards kept burning.

Benches were provided for them to sleep on, and two of the orderlies

presented them with bear-skins; but the native fashion is to lie on a

thick, wadded quilt, folded together, and laid on the floor, which,

even in the poorest dwellings, is covered with soft straw-mats. A

large wadded dress, made of silk or cotton, according to the

circumstances of the wearer, serves for bed-clothes--which seem to be

quite unknown; and while the poorer classes have only a piece of wood

for a pillow, the richer fasten a cushion on the neat boxes which

contain their razors, scissors, pomatum, tooth-brushes, and other

toilet requisites.

But while the comfort of the captives was attended to in many minor

matters, there was no relaxation of the vigilance used to preclude the

possibility of self-destruction. They were not allowed scissors or

knife to cut their nails, but were obliged to thrust their hands

through the palisades, to get this office performed for them. When

they were indulged with smoking, it was with a very long pipe held

between the spars, and furnished with a wooden ball fixed about the

middle, to prevent its being drawn wholly within the cage.

For weeks together they were brought daily before the bunyo (governor

of the town, and probably lord-lieutenant of all the Japanese Kurile

Islands), bound and harnessed like horses as before. The ostensible

object of these examinations, which frequently lasted the whole day,

was to ascertain for what purpose they had come near Japan, and what

they knew of Resanoff and Chwostoff--for a singularly unfortunate

combination of circumstances had arisen to give colour to the

suspicion, that some of their party had been connected with that

expedition. But for one inquiry connected with the case, there were

fifty that were wholly irrelevant, and prompted by mere curiosity. The

most trivial questions were put several times and in different forms,

and every answer was carefully written down. Golownin was often

puzzled, irritated, and quite at the end of his stock of patience; but

that of the interrogators appeared interminable. They said, that by

writing down everything they were told, whether true or false, and

comparing the various statements they received, they were enabled

through time to separate truth from fiction, and the practice was very

improving. At the close of almost every examination, the bunyo

exhorted them not to despair, but to offer up prayers to Heaven, and

patiently await the emperor's decision.

Presently new work was found for them. An intelligent young man was

brought to their prison, to be taught the Russian language. To this

the captain consented, having no confidence in the Kurile Alexei as an

interpreter, and being desirous himself to gain some knowledge of

Japanese. Teske made rapid progress, and soon became a most useful and

kindly companion to the captives. Books, pens, and paper were now

allowed them in abundance; and their mode of treatment was every way

improved. But by and by, they were threatened with more pupils; a

geometrician and astronomer from the capital was introduced to them,

and would gladly have been instructed in their mode of taking

observations. Other learned men were preparing to follow, and it was

now evident that the intention of the Japanese government was to

reconcile them to their lot, and retain them for the instruction of

the nation. Indeed, this appears to be the great secret of the policy

of detaining for life instead of destroying the hapless foreigners

that light on these shores; as the avowed motive for tolerating the

commercial visits of the Dutch is, that they furnish the only news of

public events that ever reach Japan. Fearful of becoming known to

other nations for fear of invasion, they are yet greedy of information

respecting them, and many were the foolish questions they asked

Golownin about the emperor of Russia, his dress, habitation, forces,

and territories.

Golownin, on his part, endeavoured to elicit all the information he

could gain with respect to the numbers, resources, government, and

religion of this singular people. He found it impossible to ascertain

the amount of the population; indeed, it seems it would be very

difficult for the government itself to obtain a census, for millions

of the poor live abroad in the streets, fields, or woods, having no

spot which they can call a home. Teske shewed a map of the empire,

having every town and village marked on it; and though on a very large

scale, it was thickly covered. He pointed out on it a desert, which is

considered immense, because litters take a whole day to traverse it,

and meet with only one village during the journey. It is perhaps

fifteen miles across. The city of Yedo was usually set down by

Europeans as containing 1,000,000 inhabitants; but Golownin was

informed, that it had in its principal streets 280,000 houses, each

containing from 30 to 40 persons; besides all the small houses and

huts. This would give in the whole a population of above 10,000,000

souls--about a fourth part of the estimated population of this

country! The incorporated society of the blind alone is affirmed to

include 36,000.

The country, though lying under the same latitudes as Spain and Italy,

is yet very different from them in climate. At Matsmai, for instance,

which is on the same parallel as Leghorn, snow falls as abundantly as

at St Petersburg, and lies in the valleys from November till April.

Severe frost is uncommon, but cold fogs are exceedingly prevalent. The

climate, however, is uncommonly diversified, and consequently so are

the productions, exhibiting in some places the vegetation of the

frigid zone, and in others that of the tropics.

Rice is the staple production of the soil. It is nearly the only

article used instead of bread, and the only one from which strong

liquor is distilled, while its straw serves for many domestic

purposes. Besides the radishes already mentioned, there is an

extensive cultivation of various other esculent roots and vegetables.

There is no coast without fisheries, and there is no marine animal

that is not used for food, save those which are absolutely poisonous.

But an uncommonly small quantity suffices for each individual. If a

Japanese has a handful of rice and a single mouthful of fish, he makes

a savoury dish with roots, herbs, or mollusca, and it suffices for a

day's support.

Japan produces both black and green tea; the former is very inferior,

and used only for quenching thirst; whereas the latter is esteemed a

luxury, and is presented to company. The best grows in the

principality of Kioto, where it is carefully cultivated for the use

both of the temporal and spiritual courts. Tobacco, which was first

introduced by the European missionaries, has spread astonishingly,

and is so well manufactured, that our author smoked it with a relish

he had never felt for a Havana cigar. The Japanese smokes continually,

and sips tea with his pipe, even rising for it during the night.

All articles of clothing are made of silk or cotton. The former

appears to be very abundant, as rich dresses of it are worn even by

the common soldiers on festive days; and it may be seen on people of

all ranks even in poor towns. The fabrics are at least equal to those

of China. The cotton of Japan seems to be of the same kind as that of

our West Indian colonies. It furnishes the ordinary dress of the great

mass of the people, and also serves all the other purposes for which

we employ wool, flax, furs, and feathers. The culture of it is, of

course, very extensive; but the fabrics are all coarse: Golownin could

hardly make himself believe that his muslin cravat was of this

material. There is some hemp, which is manufactured into cloth for

sails, &c.; but cables and ropes, very inferior to ours, are made from

the bark of a tree called kadyz. This bark likewise supplies materials

for thread, lamp-wicks, writing-paper, and the coarse paper used for

pocket-handkerchiefs.

There is no lack of fruit-trees, as the orange, lemon, peach, plum,

fig, chestnut, and apple; but the vine yields only a small, sour

grape, perhaps for want of culture. Timber-trees grow only in the

mountainous districts, which are unfit for cultivation. Camphor is

produced abundantly in the south, and large quantities of it are

exported by the Dutch and Chinese. The celebrated varnish of Japan,

drawn from a tree called silz, is so plentiful, that it is used for

lacquering the most ordinary utensils. Its natural colour is white,

but it assumes any that is given to it by mixture. The best varnished

vessels reflect the face as in a mirror, and hot water may be poured

into them without occasioning the least smell.

The chief domestic animals are horses and oxen for draught; cats and

dogs are kept for the same uses as with us; and swine furnish food to

the few sects who eat flesh. Sheep and goats seem to be quite unknown:

the Russian captives had to make drawings of the former, to convey

some idea of the origin of wool.

There are considerable mines of gold and silver in several parts of

the empire, but the government does not permit them to be all worked,

for fear of depreciating the value of these metals. They supply, with

copper, the material of the currency, and are also liberally used in

the decoration of public buildings, and in the domestic utensils of

the wealthy. There is a sufficiency of quicksilver, lead, and tin, for

the wants of the country; and one island is entirely covered with

sulphur. Copper is very abundant, and of remarkably fine quality. All

kitchen utensils, tobacco-pipes, and fire-shovels, are made of it; and

so well made, that our author mentions his tea-kettle as having stood

on the fire, like all other Japanese kettles, day and night for

months, without burning into holes. This metal is likewise employed

for sheathing ships, and covering the joists and flat roofs of houses.

Iron is less abundant, and much that is used is obtained from the

Dutch. Nails alone, of which immense numbers are used in all

carpentry-work, consume a large quantity. Diamonds, cornelians,

jaspers, some very fine agates, and other precious stones, are found;

but the natives seem not well to understand polishing them. Pearls are

abundant; but not being considered ornamental, they are reserved for

the Chinese market.

Steel and porcelain are the manufactures in which the Japanese chiefly

excel, besides those in silk-stuffs and lacquered ware already

mentioned. Their porcelain is far superior to the Chinese, but it is

scarce and dear. With respect to steel manufactures, the sabres and

daggers of Japan yield only perhaps to those of Damascus; and Golownin

says their cabinet-makers' tools might almost be compared with the

English. In painting, engraving, and printing, they are far behind;

and they seem to have no knowledge of ship-building or navigation

beyond what suffices for coasting voyages, though they have

intelligent and enterprising sailors. There is an immense internal

traffic, for facilitating which there are good roads and bridges where

water-carriage is impracticable. These distant Orientals have likewise

bills of exchange and commercial gazettes. The emperor enjoys a

monopoly of the foreign commerce.

It is popularly said, that Japan has two emperors--one spiritual, and

the other temporal. The former, however, having no share in the

administration of the empire, and seldom even hearing of state

affairs, is no sovereign according to the ideas we attach to that

term. He seems to stand much in the same relation to the emperor that

the popes once did to the sovereigns of Europe. He governs Kioto as a

small independent state; receives the emperor to an interview once in

seven years; is consulted by him on extraordinary emergencies;

receives occasional embassies and presents from him, and bestows his

blessing in return. His dignity, unlike that of the Roman pontiffs, is

hereditary, and he is allowed twelve wives, that his race may not

become extinct. According to Japanese records, the present dynasty,

including about 130 Kin-reys, has been maintained in a direct line for

above twenty-four centuries. The person of the Kin-rey is so sacred,

that no ordinary mortal may see any part of him but his feet, and that

only once a year; every vessel which he uses must be broken

immediately; for if another should even by accident eat or drink out

of it, he must be put to death. Every garment which he wears must be

manufactured by virgin hands, from the earliest process in the

preparation of the silk.

The adherents of the aboriginal Japanese religion, of which the

Kin-rey is the head, adore numerous divinities called Kami, or

immortal spirits, to whom they offer prayers, flowers, and sometimes

more substantial gifts. They also worship Kadotski, or saints--mortals

canonised by the Kin-rey--and build temples in their honour. The laws

concerning personal and ceremonial purity, which form the principal

feature of this religion, are exceedingly strict, not unlike those

imposed on the ancient Jews. There are several orders of priests,

monks, and nuns, whose austerity, like that of Europe, is maintained

in theory more than in practice.

Three other creeds, the Brahminical, the Confucian, and that which

deifies the heavenly bodies, have many adherents; but their priests

all acknowledge a certain religious supremacy to exist in the Kin-rey.

There is universal toleration in these matters; every citizen may

profess what faith he chooses, and change it as often as he chooses,

without any one inquiring into his reasons; only it must be a

spontaneous choice, for proselyting is forbidden by law. Christianity

alone is proscribed, and that on account of the political mischief

said to have been effected through its adherents in the seventeenth

century. There is a law, by which no one may hire a servant without

receiving a certificate of his not being a Christian; and on

New-Year's Day, which is a great national festival, all the

inhabitants of Nangasaki are obliged to ascend a staircase, and

trample on the crucifix, and other insignia of the Romish faith, which

are laid on the steps as a test. It is said that many perform the act

in violation of their feelings. So much of the religious state of the

empire Golownin elicited in conversation with Teske and others; but

everything on this subject was communicated with evident reluctance;

and though in the course of the walks which they were permitted to

take in harness, the Russian captives sometimes saw the interior of

the temples, they were never permitted to enter while any religious

rites were celebrated.

With respect to the civil administration of Japan, our author seems to

have gathered little that was absolutely new to us. The empire

comprises above 200 states, which are governed as independent

sovereignties by princes called Damyos, who frame and enforce their

own laws. Though most of these principalities are very small, some of

them are powerful: the damyo of Sindai, for instance, visits the

imperial court with a retinue of 60,000. Their dependence on the

emperor appears chiefly in their being obliged to maintain a certain

number of troops, which are at his disposal. Those provinces which

belong directly to the emperor, are placed under governors called

Bunyos, whose families reside at the capital as hostages. Every

province has two bunyos, each of whom spends six months in the

government and six at Yedo.

The supreme council of the emperor consists of five sovereign princes,

who decide on all ordinary measures without referring to him. An

inferior council of fifteen princes or nobles presides over important

civil and criminal cases. The general laws are few and well known.

They are very severe; but the judges generally find means of evading

them where their enforcement would involve a violation of those of

humanity. In some cases, as in conjugal infidelity or filial impiety,

individuals are permitted to avenge their own wrong, even to the

taking of life. Civil cases are generally decided by arbitrators, and

only when they fail to settle a matter is there recourse to the public

courts of justice. Taxes are generally paid to the reigning prince or

emperor, in tithes of the agricultural, manufactured, or other

productions of the country.

Such were some of the leading particulars ascertained by Golownin

concerning the social and civil condition of this singular people. He

says, they always appeared very happy, and their demeanour was

characterised by lively and polite manners, with the most

imperturbable good temper. It seems at length to have been through

fear of a Russian invasion, rather than from any sense of justice,

that his Japanese majesty, in reply to the importunities of the

officers of the _Diana_, consented to release the captives, on

condition of receiving from the Russian government a solemn disavowal

of having sanctioned the proceedings of Chwostoff. Having obtained

this, the officers repaired for the fourth time to these unfriendly

shores, and enjoyed the happiness of embracing their companions, and

taking them on board.

Chambers's Edinburgh Journal, No. 448 Volume 18, New Series, July 31, 1852 · 第 7 / 16 题