of the way in which old and new customs may be said to elbow one
another in their struggle for supremacy. A tired foreigner trying to
sleep was disturbed by a persistent clatter of metal instruments and
medley of voices close by. Finally in desperation he got up and looked
out on the street, determined to locate the noise and if possible put
a stop to it. It was summer weather and through the open windows of
a neighbouring Chinese house he found himself the half unconscious
observer of a strange scene. On the bed lay an old woman, evidently
very sick, while a Chinese doctor and several assistants were running
about the room with Chinese rattles and whistles, frightening away the
evil spirit that had caused the malady. At last he was chased to the
court below, where a pause was made, and the impudent intruder politely
asked what his wishes might be. Replying that he desired to visit a
neighbouring village he was told he could go, whereupon the relieved
family shut and bolted the outer door after paying the doctor a fat fee
for his services. This all took place under the very shadow of a group
of the most up-to-date Municipal hospitals in Shanghai.
[Illustration: SCHOOL GIRLS IN GYMNASIUM DRILL]
One of the hopeful signs of these later days in China is the changing
attitude of the people toward physical exercise, for it means better
health and better morals for the nation. Not long ago, really only a
very few years, round shoulders were by every one highly commended,
in the women as indicating modesty and in the men scholarly habits.
A girl who held herself erect, with well developed chest, would have
been set down at once as bold and forward, and not only that, but any
kind of physical exertion was regarded by the upper classes, young
and old alike, as coolie’s work and quite beneath their dignity. Some
Chinese girls were watching a game of tennis for the first time,
when one turned to her companion with a puzzled expression and the
remark, “Can’t they get coolies to do that work for them?” Several
Englishmen living in the western part of the city were in the habit
of rising early every morning for a tramp in the country. The Chinese
in the neighbourhood who saw them start out day after day were told
the men walked for the pleasure of it, but they shook their heads
incredulously, “We know they mean to worship at some secret shrine, for
no one in his senses would work so hard if he didn’t have to” A couple
of foreigners were crossing Garden Bridge when a troop of Chinese
youths went rushing past with foot-balls tucked under their arms. Said
the gentleman laughingly to his companion, “You wouldn’t have seen that
a short time ago in Shanghai.” “Why? Because the boys were not playing
ball?” “Yes, and neither would they have done such an unmannerly thing
as to run. Just now they were so interested in the coming ball game
they forgot all about appearances.”
In the spring of 1915 Shanghai witnessed a unique spectacle, something
that will go down in history, and deservedly, as one of the great
events in the life of the city. It was the Second Far Eastern Olympiad,
the first having been held the year before in Manila. The Municipal
Council turned over Shanghai’s finest park for the games, and the
Young Men’s Christian Association fitted it up with the necessary
accessories. No one who was there will ever forget that week. Many
foreigners were present, but they were almost lost among the crowds of
Chinese, for this was a distinctly Chinese celebration, just as it was
meant to be. The élite Chinese turned out as well as the common people,
men and women, young and old. Wide-eyed and tense, they watched their
countrymen contest with crack players from Japan and the Philippines,
and cheered tremendously when again and again the Chinese “won out.” It
was good to look upon these lusty youths, who instead of cultivating
long finger nails and cramping their chests after the manner of the
old-time Chinese scholars, were clad in gymnasium tights, vaulting,
running, swimming, batting, while their sires and grandsires forgot
themselves and their traditions so far as to urge them on with shouts
of approval.
Shortly afterward, under the auspices of the Young Women’s Christian
Association, several hundred girls from mission and private schools
gave a physical exhibition of their own. This was not open to the
public, guests being admitted by ticket and only a few gentlemen
invited. Some of the girls wore modified gymnasium suits, but most
appeared in their ordinary school clothes. It was all-important that
the conservatives should not be shocked, who were none too friendly
to the idea of physical training for their daughters. Mothers,
grandmothers, and aunts, their prejudice partly overcome by their
curiosity, sat around in crowds on the borders of the grassy campus
viewing the exercises, first with indifference, then interest, and at
last, genuine enthusiasm. The leader was a young Chinese woman who
received her training in Boston. These two events marked a new era in
the physical development of Young China and the ravages of tuberculosis
have received a check, while good, hard, honest work is understood, by
athletes at least, as something not to be shunned as a disgrace.
XI
A TYPICAL SHANGHAI WEDDING
It was the day before the wedding. Downstairs in the home of the fiancé
all was bustle and excitement. The marriage dowry, that for weeks had
been collecting, was being made ready to carry over to the house of the
groom’s father. Articles large and small, useful, and ornamental were
scattered everywhere.
First, and most important of all, there was the trousseau. Each suit
consisted of three pieces--trousers, skirt, and jacket--made of the
same material. They were carefully folded and piled one on top of
another in the regulation bridal trunks, which are moderate sized
wooden boxes covered with glossy red or brown oilcloth. Though the
family was greatly rushed, still as relatives and friends dropped in
to watch the proceedings and offer congratulations, the more elaborate
costumes were taken out with ill-concealed pride and held up for
inspection. And they were worth seeing! Silks, brocaded satins, crêpes,
gauzes, ranging in colour from the palest hues of pink, green, blue,
and violet, down to rich crimson, dark grey, brown, and even black, lay
together in bewildering profusion. Some were delicate as sea-foam,
others handsome but quiet, while the splendidly embroidered ones might
well have rejoiced the heart of a princess. The jewels were arranged to
show off to the best advantage in numerous small glass-covered cases.
They presented a dazzling array--bracelets, rings, buckles, necklaces,
hair ornaments. Diamonds, rubies, pearls, sapphires, shone resplendent,
but jade was the principal stone.
The bride’s wardrobe, however, though of absorbing interest, was
only one portion of her dowry. The rest of the outfit blocked the
way in every direction. The usual sets of graded wooden tubs, pails,
and chests with conspicuous brass locks occupied the entire side of
one room. These were painted either a rich red or brown and highly
polished. On the other side of the room the most conspicuous object was
a couch or divan weighed down under a huge pile of quilts. No Chinese
girl goes to her husband’s home without a collection of bed-coverings.
Though differing greatly in number and elegance, always they are of
bright colours and folded lengthwise with exquisite neatness. In this
case most of the quilts were of the costliest materials, flowered
silks, figured satins, with a few gay prints and soft cashmeres for
summer use.
In an adjoining apartment was a set of bedroom furniture in carved
teakwood, wardrobe, table, chairs, and washstand. The ornate brass bed
was of foreign make. The silk curtains and silver ornaments with which
it was later to be hung, were temporarily reposing in one of the many
chests. Embossed silver teasets of Chinese pattern, silver and ivory
chopsticks, foreign glass finger bowls, gaudy native silver wine cups,
bonbon dishes, jewelry cases, hand-painted scrolls, silk banners, later
to be converted into gowns for the bride, these were but a few of the
riches lavished on the girl sitting apart in an upper chamber, shy,
half afraid, wholly expectant.
The list of attractions on this great occasion would be incomplete
were mention not made of the trays of edibles, fruits, fancy cakes,
and confections of marvellous variety, intended as a gift from the
bride’s parents to the family of the groom. On the evening of the
wedding day the groom’s parents will return the compliment by sending
to the bride’s home a sumptuous repast consisting of cakes, fruit,
cooked fowls, fish, and one, possibly three or four, roasted pigs.
After roasting the pig is coated over with sesame oil, which hardens
when exposed to the air and imparts an appetizing gloss to the skin.
The animal is carried through the streets by coolies in a red tray
suspended from poles, to the admiration of all onlookers and the
despair of the hungry. On arriving at its destination, the upper part
of the head, and the tail, with a thin slice of meat attached to it,
are cut away and returned to the donors. This is done to insure the
uninterrupted bliss of the young couple, since the head and tail of the
pig represent the beginning and end of happiness in the lives of the
newly wed.
It was no light contract to get such a generous marriage dowry conveyed
safely from one home to the other. Early in the morning preparations
began, yet by three in the afternoon the procession had not started.
People were flying to and fro. Coolie bearers with long bamboo poles
stood around in every one’s way, talking in loud shrill tones. In a
side room sat a scholarly mandarin writing Chinese characters on slips
of red paper. These were pasted vertically across each chest beside
the lock and served the double purpose of announcing the name of the
bride and adding to the safety of the contents of the chest in transit,
since it could not be opened without tearing the paper. The quilts
were fastened securely to the couch on which they lay by an ornamental
network of red cord. Smaller articles, placed on box-shaped trays, were
in like manner made secure from pilfering fingers. Red paper cards, red
ribbon and flowers figured prominently as decorations. As one by one
the pieces were made ready they were taken to the street and fastened
by ropes to the coolies’ carrying poles. When the long procession was
complete and awaiting the order to start, a gayer scene could scarcely
be imagined. The bride’s entire dowry, excepting her trousseau, was in
full view of curious eyes, that all spectators along the route might
be duly impressed with the family wealth. Leading off were two closed
carriages (a short time ago they would have been sedan chairs), in each
of which sat in state two gentlemen “go-betweens,” whose particular
mission at this time was to convey the cases containing the jewels to
the home of the groom. But alas for human pride and ambition! Just at
the critical moment, when the coachman had whipped the horses into
action, the coolies raised the poles to their shoulders, and a tremor
undulated down the whole line--a few drops of rain fell. Then such a
scurrying of feet ensued as servants rushed into the house for pieces
of oiled cloth to protect perishable treasures! So it was with eclipsed
glory that the parade eventually started on its way, to the vast
disappointment of all concerned.
On the day of the wedding the centre of interest was transferred from
the bride’s home to that of the groom. He lived in a three-story
mansion, becoming the rank of his father, who was a high official
holding a responsible government position. At the gate of the compound,
or grounds, were stationed several Chinese policemen whose chief
business was to keep the motley crowd outside from encroaching on the
premises. But either they were unequal to their task, or what is more
likely, condoned the intrusion of the ragamuffins, for more and more
of the nondescript element drifted past the sentinels, till the yard
in front was well filled. The arched gateway and main entrance to the
dwelling were decorated with flowers and greens, while along the wide
veranda was suspended a row of mammoth lanterns, gorgeous with crimson
silk trimmings and tassels. At one end of the veranda hung strings of
firecrackers, yards and yards in length, lending an added splash of
colour to the picture. The house was built around the four sides of a
glass-covered court, with galleries on the second and third stories
from which the rooms opened. Two bands were stationed in the court,
one Chinese and the other Filipino, the latter a contingent from the
Municipal Band of the International Settlement. The contrast between
them was ludicrous. The Filipinos in fresh uniforms with shining
instruments sat erect before their leader and played with spirit. The
ten or a dozen Chinese were of all ages, their rags showing beneath
faded red jackets and in their hands a collection of indescribable
instruments on which from time to time they blew, pounded and pulled,
to the evident enjoyment of all the guests but the few suffering
foreigners present. Beyond the court was the reception hall. As it
was entirely open in front, its magnificence caught and held the gaze
immediately on entering the front door. The walls were ablaze with
crimson satin banners, while crimson satin covered the chairs and
tables, every piece of it, like the banners, elegantly embroidered.
Wedding decorations are rented for the occasion as it would cost a
small fortune to buy them. The ground floor was mainly given up to the
men, who sat around in the ante-rooms, in social groups, sipping tea
and wine, and smoking.
Upstairs the women of the family held court. As guests arrived they
were conducted at once to the bridal chamber, a large bright room,
decked out with the furniture and bric-a-brac sent over the day before
from the bride’s home. The bed was the most striking object, for the
white silken curtains were carefully hung, though almost hidden under a
glittering assortment of quaint and rare ornaments in wrought silver,
nearly all of them possessing some symbolical meaning. The carved
teakwood table covered with a heavy white satin spread embroidered in
peach blossoms, stood in the centre of the room. So many gifts had been
sent by friends to swell the marriage dowry, that the bridal chamber
and room back of it could scarcely contain them all. Frequently next
to an exquisite bit of ivory or jade would repose a cheap glass vase
or china matchbox that looked as if it might have come from a ten-cent
store in America. In an adjoining apartment stood a table set in
foreign style. The table-cloth was a strip of coarse cotton sheeting,
and on it were placed fancy china dishes heaped with all manner of
cakes, fruit, and confections. Even such accessories as knives and
forks, and tiny napkins embroidered around the edge in deep blue were
not lacking. In the centre was a spreading floral piece of remarkable
design. To beguile the time while waiting for the coming of the bride,
guests were invited to partake of the refreshments, which they did
freely.
The hours passed slowly by. One o’clock had been named in the
invitations as the time of the wedding, but three struck and no bride.
Four o’clock rolled around and still no signs of her. Indeed, not a
Chinese guest expected her, for had the bride made her appearance
promptly, she would have been committing a shocking and unpardonable
breach of etiquette. Several times, according to custom, the bridegroom
had sent his messengers to bring her, but without avail. The bridegroom
must go himself. At last, late in the afternoon, the word passed
around, amid a wild flurry of excitement, that he was about to set out.
He left in a closed carriage drawn by a span of horses with coachman
and footman. His two little sisters, flower-girls, in white foreign
dresses, pink sashes and hair ribbons, followed in another carriage.
The foreign band went too, on foot, while the Chinese musicians
exerted themselves with commendable energy to keep up the flagging
spirits of the waiting guests.
The minutes dragged heavily till an hour had gone by. During the
interval there were occasional breaks in the monotony. Coolies hurried
in with belated wedding gifts, women servants of the bride arrived
bearing additional jewel cases, and finally three men walked in,
importantly. Two wore Chinese dress, the third one foreign clothes of
the best modern cut. It was whispered around that he had come all the
way from Peking to act as chief functionary at the ceremony. Presently
the bridegroom’s carriage rolled into the compound. The excitement then
rose to a tremendous pitch and every one who was not already crowding
forward rushed to the entrance and the front verandas. Soon the glad
shout arose on every side: “The bride is coming! The bride is coming!”
First in through the gateway marched the Filipinos playing a stirring
air. Close behind was the carriage of the flower girls, and then came
the bride, riding alone. Her carriage on top had the appearance of
a flower garden with its elaborate rainbow-coloured trimmings. The
horses’ harness too was gaily decorated. But the poor animals were
badly frightened when a match was set to the firecrackers and boom
after boom rent the air. They reared and pranced, and though a footman
held tightly to each bridle, it seemed for a moment or two as if the
carriage with its precious burden would not succeed in getting safely
inside the gate. By this time the policemen had abandoned all effort to
control the street mob, and they poured into the compound, a gaping
throng, in strange contrast to their brilliant surroundings.
The little flower girls, carrying beautiful floral baskets, had
tripped lightly to the ground, when an intimate woman friend of the
bride’s family stepped forward to open the coach door for the bride.
Not a glimpse had been had of her, for the blinds were closely drawn.
Very slowly she dismounted as custom required, but had the poor child
wished ever so much to hurry, she would have been too seriously
hampered by her attire to do so. Delicate satin slippers encased her
small though unbound feet. Her gown was of old rose satin, stiff with
embroidery. Over her little shapely hands were drawn loose-fitting
cotton gloves. Necklaces without number, of extraordinary design,
nearly hid the waist of her dress in front, while quantities of gold
and jade bracelets encircled her slender wrists. But the most amazing
creation of all was the bride’s headgear. It was the time-honoured
helmet, worn for centuries back in these parts by Chinese brides, but
seldom seen nowadays in Shanghai. Studded with brilliants and coloured
glass, and encircled with strings of bangles that fell around and
almost concealed the girl’s face, the weight must have been enough
to bow down, without any effort to appear modest, the head that had
to sustain it. But, O, ye shades of a stereotyped past, what is this
grand climax to the bride’s dress which now rivets the attention of the
astonished beholder! Can it be? yes, it certainly is--a modern wedding
veil of white net, gathered above the helmet in a tuft-like bunch and
falling around the bride to her feet in billowy folds! The towering
crown wavered uncertainly, as, guided by her chaperon, the girl moved
deliberately toward the house.
Just inside the door she was joined by the groom in a well fitting
Tuxedo, but looking about as ill at ease as a man can. Keeping a good
elbow’s distance apart, the bridal couple, followed, not preceded, by
the flower girls and after them the groom’s relatives, walked across
the court and on into the reception hall, where a girl was vigorously
pounding out Mendelssohn’s Wedding March on a clanging piano. They
stopped a few feet in front of an oblong table behind which stood the
three men who had preceded the groom to the house. The bride and groom
bowed low to each of the three dignitaries, beginning with the one in
the centre, who was the little man in foreign clothes. This gentleman
picked up a document written over with Chinese characters, and holding
it in his two hands, read from it in a loud voice. After that he handed
a ring to the groom, who placed it on the third finger of the left hand
of the bride, over her cotton glove. This act was accompanied by formal
bows from one party to the other. The bride then received a ring from
her chaperon and timidly slipped it on the left hand little finger
of the groom. More bowing ensued. At this juncture some little girls
came forward, and facing the bride and groom, sang very sweetly, in
English, “Jesus Bids us Shine,” a feature of the ceremony introduced
by a Chinese Christian friend with the consent of the non-Christian
families. At the conclusion of this number, bowing became the order
of the programme. It took the place of the friendly congratulations
offered to bridal couples in the West The bride and groom first saluted
each other, then the gentlemen who officiated, afterward the parents of
the groom, kneeling before them with their heads to the floor, in token
of filial respect, and lastly the brothers, sisters, uncles, aunts,
cousins, and friends generally. Each group was saluted three times,
and bowed three times in return. Those older and higher in rank stood
above the couple, but in the case of children the order was reversed.
The last to be greeted was an aunt of the bride, the only member of her
household that custom allowed to be present. This ceremony was very
formal and occupied considerable time. While it lasted the chaperon was
kept busy, since it was her duty to turn the bride around, and push her
head forward at the proper time to bow.
When all was at last over, strains from Mendelssohn were again struck
up, the bride attempted to slip her hand in her husband’s arm, which
in his embarrassment he allowed to hang limply by his side, and
surrounded by a chattering, pushing crowd, the bridal pair ascended
the uncarpeted stairs, soiled with the dust from many feet, and found
their way to the bridal chamber. As the newly married always do, they
sat for several minutes together on the edge of the bed, then the
bridegroom made his escape to the rooms below, where, constraint cast
aside, he entered heartily into the enjoyment of the hour. But no
such good fortune awaited the bride. Her ordeal had just begun. She
rose to her feet while her girl friends pressed close about her for
the usual bantering. “Aren’t you stupid!” “What a hideous gown!” “How
ridiculously you behave!” “Whoever saw such an ugly bride!” During
this tirade not a muscle of the bride’s face quivered, and the lowered
eyes were never once raised. But perspiration stood in beads on her
forehead and the soft round cheeks were flushed and feverish, for the
thoughtless, teasing crowd shut out the air, and besides, not a morsel
of food or a drop of liquid had passed her lips that day.