Chapter VII. A tour and a detour.

'“An' there,” sez I to meself, “we're goin' wherever we go,

But where we'll be whin we git there it's never a know

I'll know.”'

Jane Barlow.

We had planned to go direct from Dublin to Valencia Island, where there

is not, I am told, 'one dhry step 'twixt your fut an' the States';

but we thought it too tiring a journey for Benella, and arranged for a

little visit to Cork first. We nearly missed the train owing to the

late arrival of Salemina at the Kingsbridge station. She had been buying

malted milk, Mellin's Food, an alcohol lamp, a tin cup, and getting all

the doctor's prescriptions renewed.

We intended, too, to go second or third class now an then, in order to

study the humours of the natives, but of course we went 'first' on this

occasion on account of Benella. I told her that we could not follow

British usage and call her by her surname. Dusenberry was too long and

too--well, too extraordinary for daily use abroad.

“P'r'aps it is,” she assented meekly; “and still, Mis' Beresford, when

a man's name is Dusenberry, you can't hardly blame him for wanting his

child to be called by it, can you?”

This was incontrovertible, and I asked her middle name. It was Frances,

and that was too like Francesca.

“You don't like the sound o' Benella?” she inquired. “I've always set

great store by my name, it is so unlikely. My father's name was Benjamin

and my mother's Ella, and mine is made from both of 'em; but you can

call me any kind of a name you please, after what you've done for me,”

and she closed her eyes patiently.

'Call me Daphne, call me Chloris,

Call me Lalage or Doris,

Only, only call me thine,'

which is exactly what we are not ready to do, I thought, in a poetic

parenthesis.

Benella looks frail and yet hardy. She has an unusual and perhaps

unnecessary amount of imagination for her station, some native

common-sense, but limited experience; she is somewhat vague and

inconsistent in her theories of life, but I am sure there is vitality,

and energy too, in her composition, although it has been temporarily

drowned in the Atlantic Ocean. If she were a clock, I should think that

some experimenter had taken out her original works, and substituted

others to see how they would run. The clock has a New England case

and strikes with a New England tone, but the works do not match it

altogether. Of course I know that one does not ordinarily engage a

lady's-maid because of these piquant peculiarities; but in our case the

circumstances were extraordinary. I have explained them fully to Himself

in my letters, and Francesca too has written pages of illuminating

detail to Ronald Macdonald.

The similarity in the minds of men must sometimes come across them with

a shock, unless indeed it appeals to their sense of humour. Himself

in America, and the Rev. Mr. Macdonald in the north of Scotland, both

answered, in course of time, that a lady's-maid should be engaged

because is a lady's-maid and for no other reason.

Was ever anything duller than this, more conventional, more commonplace

or didactic, less imaginative? Himself added, “You are a romantic idiot,

and I love you more than tongue can tell.” Francesca did not say what

Ronald added; probably a part of this same sentence (owing to the

aforesaid similarity of men's minds), reserving the rest for the frank

intimacy of the connubial state.

Everything looked beautiful in the uncertain glory of the April day.

The thistle-down clouds opened now and then to shake out a delicate,

brilliant little shower that ceased in a trice, and the sun smiled

through the light veil of rain, turning every falling drop to a jewel.

It was as if the fairies were busy at aerial watering-pots, without

any more serious purpose than to amuse themselves and make the earth

beautiful; and we realised that Irish rain is as warm as an Irish

welcome, and soft as an Irish smile.

Everything was bursting into new life, everything but the primroses, and

their glory was departing. The yellow carpet seemed as bright as ever

on the sunny hedgerow banks and on the fringe of the woods, but when we

plucked some at a wayside station we saw that they were just past their

golden prime. There was a grey-green hint of verdure in the sallows

that stood against a dark background of firs, and the branches of

the fruit-trees were tipped with pink, rosy-hued promises of May just

threatening to break through their silvery April sheaths. Raindrops

were still glistening on the fronds of the tender young ferns and on the

great clumps of pale, delicately scented bog violets that we found in

a marshy spot and brought in to Salemina, who was not in her usual

spirits; who indeed seemed distinctly anxious.

She was enchanted with the changeful charm of the landscape, and found

Mrs. Delany's Memoirs a book after her own heart, but ever and anon

her eyes rested on Benella's pale face. Nothing could have been

more doggedly conscientious and assiduous than our attentions to the

Derelict. She had beef juice at Kildare, malted milk at Ballybrophy,

tea at Dundrum; nevertheless, as we approached Limerick Junction we were

obliged to hold a consultation. Salemina wished to alight from the

train at the next station, take a three hours' rest, then jog on to any

comfortable place for the night, and to Cork in the morning.

“I shall feel much more comfortable,” she said, “if you go on and amuse

yourselves as you like, leaving Benella to me for a day, or even for two

or three days. I can't help feeling that the chief fault, or at least

the chief responsibility, is mine. If I hadn't been born in Salem, or

hadn't had the word painted on my trunk in such red letters she wouldn't

have fainted on it, and I needn't have saved her life. It is too late

to turn back now; it is saved, or partly saved, and I must persevere in

saving it, at least until I find that it's not worth saving.”

“Poor darling!” said Francesca sympathisingly. “I'll look in Murray

and find a nice interesting place. You can put Benella to bed in the

Southern Hotel at Limerick Junction, and perhaps you can then drive

within sight of the Round Tower of Cashel. Then you can take up the

afternoon train and go to--let me see--how would you like Buttevant?

(Boutez en avant, you know, the 'Push forward' motto of the Barrymores.)

It's delightful, Penelope,” she continued; “we'd better get off, too. It

is a garrison town, and there is a military hotel. Then in the vicinity

is Kilcolman, where Spenser wrote the Faerie Queene: so there is the

beginning of your literary pilgrimage the very first day, without any

plotting or planning. The little river Aubeg, which flows by Kilcolman

Castle, Spenser called the Mulla, and referred to it as 'Mulla mine,

whose waves I whilom taught to weep.' That, by the way, is no more than

our Jane Grieve could have done for the rivers of Scotland. What do you

say? and won't you be a 'prood woman the day' when you sign the hotel

register 'Miss Peabody and maid, Salem, Mass., U.S.A'”

I thought most favourably of Buttevant, but on prudently inquiring the

guard's opinion, he said it was not a comfortable place for an invalid

lady, and that Mallow was much more the thing. At Limerick Junction,

then, we all alighted, and in the ten minutes' wait saw Benella escorted

up the hotel stairway by a sympathetic head waiter.

Detached from Salemina's fostering care and prudent espionage,

separated, above all, from the depressing Miss Dusenberry, we planned

every conceivable folly in the way of guidebook expeditions. The

exhilarating sense of being married, and therefore properly equipped to

undertake any sort of excursion with perfect propriety, gave added zest

to the affair in my eyes. Sleeping at Cork in an Imperial Hotel was far

too usual a proceeding,--we scorned it. As the very apex of boldness and

reckless defiance of common-sense, we let our heavy luggage go on to the

capital of Munster, and, taking our handbags, entered a railway carriage

standing on a side track, and were speedily on our way,--we knew not

whither, and cared less. We discovered all too soon that we were going

to Waterford, the Star of the Suir,--

'The gentle Shure, that making way

By sweet Clonmell, adorns rich Waterford';

and we were charmed at first sight with its quaint bridge spanning the

silvery river. It was only five o'clock, and we walked about the fine

old ninth-century town, called by the Cavaliers the Urbs Intacta,

because it was the one place in Ireland which successfully resisted the

all-conquering Cromwell. Francesca sent a telegram at once to

MISS PEABODY AND MAID, Great Southern Hotel, Limerick Junction.

Came to Waterford instead Cork. Strongbow landed here 1771,

defeating Danes and Irish. Youghal to-morrow, pronounced Yawl. Address,

Green Park, Miss Murphy's. How's Derelict?

FRANELOPE.

It was absurd, of course, but an absurdity that can be achieved at the

cost of eighteen-pence is well worth the money.

Nobody but a Baedeker or a Murray could write an account of our doings

the next two days. Feeling that we might at any hour be recalled to

Benella's bedside, we took a childlike pleasure in crowding as much as

possible into the time. This zeal was responsible for our leaving the

Urbs Intacta, and pushing on to pass the night in something smaller and

more idyllic.

I dissuaded Francesca from seeking a lodging in Ballybricken by

informing her that it was the heart of the bacon industry, and the home

of the best-known body of pig-buyers in Ireland; but her mind was fixed

upon Kills and Ballies. On asking our jarvey the meaning of Bally as

a prefix, he answered reflectively: “I don't think there's annything

onderhanded in the manin', melady; I think it means BALLY jist.”

The name of the place where we did go shall never be divulged, lest a

curious public follow in our footsteps; and if perchance it have not

our youth, vigour, and appetite for adventure, it might die there in the

principal hotel, unwept, unhonoured, and unsung. The house is said to be

three hundred and seventy-five years old, but we are convinced that this

is a wicked understatement of its antiquity. It must have been built

since the Deluge, else it would at least have had one general spring

cleaning in the course of its existence. Cromwell had been there too,

and in the confusion of his departure they must have forgotten to sweep

under the beds. We entered our rooms at ten in the evening, having

dismissed our car, knowing well that there was no other place to stop

the night. We gave the jarvey twice his fare to avoid altercation,

'but divil a penny less would he take,' although it was he who had

recommended the place as a cosy hotel. “It looks like a small little

house, melady, but 'tis large inside, and it has a power o' beds in it.”

We each generously insisted on taking the dirtiest bedroom (they had

both been last occupied by the Cromwellian soldiers, we agreed), but

relinquished the idea, because the more we compared them the more

impossible it was to decide which was the dirtiest. There were no locks

on the doors. “And sure what matther for that, Miss? Nobody has a right

(i.e. business) to be comin' in here but meself,” said the aged woman

who showed us to our rooms.

Penelope's Irish Experiences · 第 7 / 32 章