THE KLONDIKE REGION.
On page 244, Schwatka says:
"We camped that night at the mouth of a noticeable stream coming in
from the east, which we afterwards learned was called Deer Creek by the
traders, from the large number of caribou or woodland reindeer seen in
its valley at certain times of their migrations."
This is the stream that is now known the world over as the Klondike.
What the Indians really called it was "Thron-Diuck," from which comes
the word "Klondike."
The Klondike is a small river about forty yards wide at the mouth, and
shallow; the water is clear and transparent, and of beautiful blue
color. Dawson City is located at the mouth of the river, and although
it was located only a few months ago, it is now the scene of great
activity.
Upon this stream and several of its affluents have been found the rich
deposits of gold. The river is about 140 miles in length, and the
gold-bearing creeks, where the richest deposits have been found, run
into the Klondike from a southerly direction.
The principal creeks are the Bonanza, entering the Klondike two miles
from its junction with the Yukon; El Dorado Creek, a branch of Bonanza
Creek, from twelve to fifteen miles in length; about seven miles
farther up Bonanza Creek is Gold Bottom Creek; and a few miles beyond
is Adams Creek. There are several smaller creeks emptying into Bonanza
Creek, which are gold-bearing.
About twelve miles up the Klondike is Bear Creek, which has several
tributaries, and twelve miles farther up is Hunter Creek. About ten
miles farther up the Klondike is Too Much Gold Creek. Bonanza and El
Dorado creeks have produced the richest deposits of gold yet found, but
all the creeks mentioned have some very rich deposits.
The knowledge of these gold fields in the far north is not new. From
early in the days of the Russian occupation of this territory it has
been known that there were vast deposits of the precious metal in
Alaska. It is said that the existence of gold in quantities along the
Yukon and its tributaries was known to the fur-trading companies a
century and a half ago. These companies were not after minerals, and
they were merely guarding the immense wealth which abounded in the fur
industries when they did not give their knowledge to the world. Other
fur companies have followed the example of the early traders and have
kept the secret. They foresaw the effect of a rush of immigrants.
The aborigines of Alaska have been familiar with the precious yellow
metal for a time that is old even in their legends. The earliest
voyagers to the coasts of Alaska noticed the bits of shining gold
here and there among the ornaments of the natives, and for these they
traded knives, guns, and fancy trappings. Beyond the few ounces which
they gained in this way, however, no gold was obtained from those
regions. In 1741 the Russian explorer, Behring, after whom the great
Alaskan Sea is named, found gold, but he found what seemed to him more
attractive, fine furs. Upon the value of the furs he laid great stress
in his report to his monarch, and the result was that the country was
granted by the Emperor Paul for fur-gathering purposes alone to the
Russo-American Fur Company, and thus it remained until the purchase by
the United States in 1867.
That there were deposits of gold in those icy regions was hinted by the
early explorers, and incomplete records show that more than one party
put civilization behind for the purpose of investigating the country.
In fact, enough men had left for that region to produce sufficient gold
to cause the Director of the Mint to credit Alaska with three hundred
thousand dollars in gold and two thousand dollars in silver in 1885.
Most of this metal came from Douglas Island. In 1896 the total output
of lode and placer mines in Alaska was put at four million six hundred
and seventy-five thousand dollars, and in 1897 the gold output, it is
estimated, will reach twelve million dollars.
There was a great gold craze in the extreme North-west in 1858. In the
60's there was a period when the annual production of the North-west
Province reached three millions, seven hundred thousand dollars. The
known deposits were exhausted, however, and by 1890 the product fell
off to less than half a million dollars.
* * * * *
[Illustration: THE KLONDIKE GOLD DISCOVERIES]
On page 190 of this volume Mr. Schwatka says, "The mouth of the
D'Abbadie marks an important point on the Yukon River as being the
place at which gold commenced to be found in placer deposits. From the
D'Ab-badie almost to the very mouth of the great Yukon a panful of
'dirt' taken with any discretion from almost any bar or bank will, when
washed, give several 'colors,' to use a miner's phrase."
The United States Government sent Professor J. S. Spurr, H. B. Goodrich
and F. C. Schrader of the Geological Survey, into the Yukon District
early in '96. Prof. Spurr, the chief of the Survey, has made the
following preliminary statement:
"Much has been written of late concerning the possibilities of Alaska
as a gold-producing country. As a matter of fact the productions of the
present year may be roughly estimated at three million dollars. This
amount, however, comes from a region of half a million square miles,
or about one quarter as large as the United States. Of the mines which
produce this gold some are in the bed rock, while others are placer
diggings.
"The bed rock mines are few in number and situated on the south-east
coast, which is the most accessible part of the territory. The chief
one is the great Treadwell mine, near Juneau, and there are also
important mines at Burner's Bay, at the Island of Unga, and other
places.
"The latest strike is the Klondike. Most of these mines, however, are
in low grade ore, and the production is only made profitable by careful
management and operations on a very large scale. The placer mines are
those which occupy the most prominent place in the popular mind, since
they are remote from civilization and in a country about which little
is known, and which is, on account of this uncertainty, dangerously
attractive to the average man. This gold producing country of the
interior is mostly in the vicinity of the Yukon River, or of some of
its immediate tributaries."
The great Klondike strike was made in the early winter of 1896-97, but
nothing was known of it in the United States until June 15th, 1897,
when the "Excelsior" arrived in San Francisco laden with Klondike
miners, who were in turn laden with gold. These miners had left the
Klondike District, and gone down the Yukon River to St. Michael,
carrying with them their loads of gold, which averaged $10,000 to the
man. About a month later, on July 17th, 1897, the steamer "Portland"
reached Seattle from St. Michael, Alaska, and brought the verified news
of the great gold discoveries in the Upper Yukon region and also nearly
a million and three-quarters in gold dust as freight, with the owners
of the same. All of this gold had been taken from the placer mines of
the Klondike within the year.
Such was the beginning of the great Klondike gold craze, which has
seized thousands of miners and speculators, a great proportion of whom
will be drawn into that region in the course of the year.
* * * * *
The great problem to be solved by those who contemplate going to the
Klondike region is the method of getting there, and of sustaining life
after they reach the country.
There are three principal ways of going to the Klondike gold fields.
One is the route taken by Mr. Schwatka, as described by him in previous
pages. This route is through the famous Chilkoot Pass, the dangers
and hardships of which he has pointed out, but in no wise magnified.
In fact, he made the journey under the most favorable circumstances.
Another route is the all-water route from Seattle by way of the
mouth of the Yukon. It is a fifteen days' voyage from Seattle to St.
Michael, which is on the western coast of Alaska, north of the mouth
of the Yukon River. In making this trip one passes through the chain
of Aleutian Islands and past the Pribilof Islands, which is the great
breeding ground of the fur seals.
From St. Michael the trip is made up the Yukon in a flat-bottom river
steamer in from fifteen to twenty days. The distance from Seattle to
Dawson City by way of St. Michael and the Yukon River is about 4,725
miles. The distance from Seattle by way of the Chilkoot Pass route,
that which was followed by Mr. Schwatka, is estimated as about 1,600
miles.
The back door route is the old Hudson Bay Trunk Line, which has been
traveled since 1825. This is by way of St. Paul to Edmonton, North-west
Territory, on the Canadian Pacific Railroad. This route from St. Paul
and Minneapolis, by way of the Soo Line and the Canadian Pacific, is
all rail as far as Edmonton. A stage line runs to Athabasca Landing
on the Athabasca River forty miles away. Thence the route is by canoe
due north, into Athabasca Lake, and finally into Great Slave Lake,
the source of the McKenzie River. Following the McKenzie River to its
mouth, the Peel River must be taken south, and then by portage, the
Rocky Mountain range is crossed. The Stewart River rises just west of
the mountain range, and thus the way to the Klondike is opened. The
Hudson Bay Company gives the distance as 1,882 miles. This route is
almost constantly used by the Indians and trappers. It is down grade
all the way. The Hudson Bay Company has small steamers plying wherever
the water is of sufficient depth.
Still another way that is recommended is known as the Takou route. The
entrance to this inlet is ten or twelve miles south of Juneau, and is
navigable for the largest ocean vessel a distance of eighteen miles
to the mouth of the Takou River. This river is navigable by canoe for
a distance of fifteen miles to Nakinah River. Here is a portage of
seventy miles to Lake Teslin, one of the chain of lakes which form
the headwaters of the Yukon. The total distance from Juneau to Lake
Teslin is one hundred and fifty miles. It is said that this route would
require not over twenty days' time to reach Klondike from Puget Sound.
The approximate distance from Seattle to Dawson City over this route is
1,650 miles.
Still another route, and one which is highly recommended by a number
of Canadians who have been over it, is the Stikeen River route. The
Canadian Government has decided to make a large grant for opening up
this all-Canadian route to the Yukon.
One of the party who assisted in laying out this route says: "We left
Fort Wrangel on May 17th, and after a pleasant run up the Stikeen River
140 miles on the steamer we reached Telegraph Creek. On the 23d of
May we left to commence operations by following up Diese Lake trail
to Tahltan Bridge, and then running to the left of Tahltan River on
the old Hudson Bay trail to a place called Jimtown. From this point we
decided to cut a new trail from Telegraph Creek straight across on the
left of Tahltan River, crossing the left fork about fifteen miles from
Telegraph, and five miles further on connecting with the old Hudson Bay
trail."
The old trail was cleared of all obstructions and followed to the old
Hudson Bay post, where some log buildings still stand. This point is
a hill of considerable size, there being about three miles of heavy
grade. This can be remedied by cutting a new trail around the hill,
following the creek. The country in general is very open, and what
timber there is, is very small and scrubby. The trail runs through a
valley from five to twenty miles wide, which presents no difficulties.
About thirty miles this side of Lake Teslin we reached a summit where
waters run north. I may say the headwaters of the Yukon commence from
this point.
From this point the Klondike may be reached in eight or ten days, with
smooth water and no portages. With the proposed improvements on the
trail the trip could be made in about fifteen days with a pack train
from Telegraph Creek. Fort Wrangel can be used as a supply station over
this route, the distance from Fort Wrangel being about nine hundred
miles. Another advantage of this route is that the supplies may be
purchased at Fort Wrangel, and thus no duty need be paid the Canadian
Government.
One member of a party of gold seekers who followed the Stikeen route
has given the following account of the route in detail. Since this
route is to be improved by the Canadian Government this description is
of considerable value:
"From Seattle we went to Fort Wrangel, 140 miles this side of Juneau,
and there we took the 150-ton steamer 'Alaskan,' which plies on the
Stikeen River. The Stikeen River is very broad at some points, and at
others, where it runs through canyons, it narrows down to 100 feet or
so, just room enough for the steamer to pass between the steep, rocky
walls. Rapids were numerous, and frequently the crew would have to go
ashore and 'line' the steamer through a narrow rapid, where the water
ran so swiftly that it made us dizzy. When nearing a bit of water
of this kind the propeller was never used. After shutting down the
machinery, lines would be attached to a steam capstan on the deck of
the steamer. The ends of these lines then were made fast to trees on
either side of the river, and by means of the steam capstan the boat
was warped along cautiously until open water was reached.
"The weather was not so cold as we looked for, just bracing. The trail
along the Stikeen follows the left bank of the river almost to the
conference of the Iskoot River, where it crosses the Stikeen, following
the left bank of the Iskoot to Telegraph Creek. At that point the trail
trends to the west and north as far as the Tahltan River, following
that course over a great, flat plateau until the foot of Teslin, or
Allen's, Lake is reached.
"There were five in the party which reached Telegraph Creek on the
'Alaskan.' At the creek six white men and two Stick Indians joined our
party. We hired the Indians to act as guides as far as the Cassiar gold
diggings, near Diese Lake, seventy-two miles to the north of Telegraph
Creek. We started for Diese Lake afoot, packing our provisions and
supplies, of which we had an abundance, on thirteen horses. On this
journey we made about six miles every twenty-four hours, going into
camp whenever we felt like it.
[Illustration: THE DESCENT OF CHILKOOT PASS]
"At the Cassiar diggings we found a few Chinamen working placers, but
they made only a bare living, so our party, after looking over the
ground, decided not to stay there. We concluded to push on for Lake
Teslin, which is about 140 miles to the north of Cassiar.
"Previous to that time some white men had been as far on that route
as the Koukitchie Lakes, seventy-five miles beyond Telegraph Creek,
but we blazed the way from that point on to Lake Teslin and through
to the Yukon River. It is probable that we made some deviations from
what is now the known route. The tramp to Lake Teslin was not so very
difficult, considering that we were in a country never before trodden
by the foot of a civilized man. We had some trouble with rivers and
creeks, and had to cut down trees and lay bridges across Nahlin
River and Beebe Creek. It is a comparatively safe and easy journey,
nevertheless.
"On the 19th day of July we reached Lake Teslin. It is one of the most
beautiful bodies of water on the American continent. Its dimensions are
about 130 miles long by an average of three and one-half miles wide.
When we were there the ground was free from snow and vegetation was
abundant. We remained in the vicinity of Lake Teslin some two or three
weeks, when our party divided and two of us decided to try to find
our way to the Yukon River. Before starting out we prospected up the
Nisulatine River, but found no gold. Upon leaving the lake we followed
the Hootalinqua or Teslin River, a fine stream about 120 miles in
length, toward the Klondike country. It flows into the Yukon just above
the Klondike district, where it and Thirty-Mile or Lewes River join in
practically forming the Yukon. Here all the trails in that country meet
together in a great canyon in Seminow Hills. Thirty-Mile River drains
the lakes about Dyea Pass.
"After leaving the mouth of the Hootalinqua River, we followed the
Yukon slowly into Dawson City, which we reached on the 12th of October."
* * * * *
In the preceding chapters many general statements as to the climate
of the region of the Yukon River have been made, but so great is the
difference between the climate of the coast regions and that of the
interior, that it is necessary to go into detail to get any definite
idea of any particular region or district.
The difference in climatic conditions which obtain on the coast and
in the interior, even thirty miles back, is very marked. The climate
of south-eastern Alaska, is much milder than the climate in the same
latitude on the Atlantic coast. This is due to the warm current of
the Pacific that sweeps up from the south-west. Summer weather on the
coast is much more liable to be wet and cloudy than in the interior.
May, June, and July are usually all one could desire, but from that on
to the opening of winter disagreeable weather is the rule and not the
exception. At St. Michael, during this period, rain falls four days
in seven. In October the winds sheer round from the south-west to the
north and fine weather sets in. During the fall, wind storms are of
frequent occurrence.
The climate is the greatest terror of the country in the popular
estimate and in the estimation of those who have been in the gold
region in recent years. The prospector is willing to scale mountains,
traverse plains, cross rivers, shoot rapids, and brave a thousand
perils, but the thought of living in a country whose temperature is
often represented as being comparable with that of a vast refrigerator
is appalling. The average temperature in the Klondike country during
the four coldest months of the year is not ordinarily much lower than
twenty degrees below zero. The average winter's snowfall in that part
of Alaska is only about two feet, whereas on the coast it is ten times
that much. The snowfall in the vicinity of Fort Cudahy is only about
two feet during the winter, although it is as much as twenty feet along
the coast where the influence of the Japan current is felt.
It is bitterly cold in Arctic Alaska. Forty degrees below zero for days
at a stretch is not uncommon. The general conception of the climate of
the great North-west is largely due to those who have merely skirted
the coast. And it is not very remarkable that the reports are not more
true of the whole of the Alaskan country, for the coast line is over
twenty-six thousand miles long and extends through many degrees of
latitude. Any one traveling any considerable part of such a distance
would easily feel justified in drawing a general conclusion as to the
climate of the whole country.
As stated above, the climate of the interior, including in that
designation practically all of the country except a narrow fringe of
coastal margin, is one of extreme rigor in winter, with a brief, but
relatively hot summer, especially when the sky is free from clouds.
In the Klondike region, in midwinter, the sun rises from 9:30 to 10
a.m., and sets from 2 to 3 p.m., the total length of daylight being
about four hours. The sun rises but a few degrees above the horizon,
and it is wholly obscured on a great many days, so the character of the
winter months may be easily imagined.
The United States Coast and Geodetic Survey in 1889-90 made a series of
observations covering a period of six months on the Yukon, not far from
the site of the present gold discoveries. The observations were made
with standard instruments and are wholly reliable.
"The mean temperature of the months, October to April, both inclusive,
are as follows: October, 33 degrees; November, 8 degrees; December,
11 degrees below zero; January, 17 degrees below zero; February, 15
degrees below zero; March, 6 degrees above zero; April, 20 degrees
above zero. The daily mean temperature fell and remained below the
freezing point (32) from November 4th to April 21st, thus giving
168 days as the length of the closed season, assuming the out-door
operations are controlled by temperature only.
"The lowest temperatures registered during that winter were: 32 degrees
below zero in November, 47 below in December, 59 below in January, 55
below in February, 45 below in March, 26 below in April.
[Illustration: A MID-DAY MEAL]
"The greatest continuous cold occurred in February, when the daily
mean for five consecutive days was 47 degrees below zero. The weather
moderated slightly about the first of March, but the temperature still
remained below the freezing point. Generally cloudy weather prevailed,
there being but three consecutive days in any month with clear weather
during the whole winter. Snow fell on about one-third of the days in
winter, and a less number in the early spring and late fall months.
In the interior, the winter sets in as early as September, when snow
storms may be expected in the mountains and passes. Headway during one
of these storms is impossible, and the traveler who is overtaken in one
of them is indeed fortunate if he escapes with his life. Snow storms of
great severity may occur in any month from September to May, inclusive."
The changes of temperature from winter to summer are rapid, owing to
the great increase in the length of the day. In May the sun rises at
about 3 a.m. and sets about 9 p.m. In June it rises about 1:30 in the
morning and sets at 10:30 p.m., giving about twenty hours of daylight,
and diffuse twilight the remainder of the time.
Notwithstanding the marked variations in the climate Alaska is
essentially a healthy country. The only prevailing diseases are those
of a bronchial nature, and in most cases these troubles can be directly
traced to imprudent exposure.
The snow of the interior partakes much of the character of frost,
sifting slowly down in intensely cold weather until it lies several
inches deep, light and fluffy; but at times, in warm weather, it thaws
and settles into a hard crust, affording excellent surface for sledding.
The great precipitation and humidity of the atmosphere in Southern
Alaska cause the entire coast region to be clothed in a mantle of
perennial green. Vegetation is dense and the forests magnificent. The
soil is rich, though in the heavily timbered region it is shallow, and
from the most eastern point of the territory to Kodiak root crops are
easily grown.
The numerous islands that skirt the coast of Alaska, the great plains
of the interior, intersected by deep rivers, gigantic snow-crowned
mountains, the active volcanoes and the mighty ice fields, with many
other singular, beautiful and awe-inspiring gifts of nature combine to
make the country of the new gold fields one of notable grandeur and
wonder.
The great rivers of the interior drain immense valleys, with mountain
ranges everywhere visible. Lakes are abundant, often surrounded by
tundra or swamps, very frequently impenetrable, covered with brush,
rank grasses, and other vegetation. After the interior is reached--and
by this is meant after the coast mountains are crossed, in many
places only twenty or thirty miles from the coast--the soft earth and
luxuriant vegetation of the coast country give place to frozen ground,
and lichens and mosses, on the mountain sides and in the valleys. But
though the vast plains of the interior are within the grasp of the ice
king for eight months of the year, with the advent of the long days of
summer, water runs, flowers bloom, and grasses spring into life as if
by magic, and their growth is at once luxuriant and rapid, even though
in many places the soil is never thawed beyond a few inches below the
surface. In the far north, at St. Michael, and at Point Barrow, wells
have been dug through sixty feet of solid ice, and the same condition
has been noted on the Yukon, at Forty-Mile.
The effect of the wide climatic ranges is manifest in the fauna and
flora of the territory. The former corresponds very closely to the
sub-arctic type; the latter presents a variety of brilliance and
sobriety at once delightful and astonishing. The animals belong largely
to the fur-bearing species, though natives of more temperate regions
survive and even thrive with proper care.
Agriculture will probably never be successful in that region, for the
season is too short and crops are too uncertain of maturity. In the
Yukon basin vegetables of the hardier sorts do fairly well. Turnips,
radishes, and salad plants and even potatoes have been successfully
cultivated at St. Michael and at Fort Yukon.
At Fort Selkirk gardening has produced some results that are very
pleasing both in size and variety. The whole Yukon basin raises fine
berries and grass, but other crops are hard to mature, and though the
fodder is plenty and good, the long, severe winter precludes success in
stock raising. The timber of the Yukon is principally willow, alder,
cottonwood, spruce, low fir, hemlock and birch. North of the basin the
growths become stunted and finally disappear.
William Ogilvie, Dominion Land Surveyor, reported on this region to the
Canadian Department of the Interior, as follows:
"The agricultural capabilities of the country along the river are not
great, nor is the land that can be seen from the river of good quality.
When we consider further the unfavorable climatic conditions that
prevail in the region, it may be said that as an agricultural district
this portion of the country will never be of any value.
"Along the east side of Lake Bennett, opposite the Chilkoot or western
arm, there are some flats of dry, gravelly soil, which would make a few
farms of limited extent. On the west side, around the mouth of Wheaton
River, there is an extensive flat of sand and gravel, covered with
small pine and spruce of stunted growth.
"Along the western shore of Tagish Lake there is a large extent of
low, swampy flats, a part of which might be used for the production
of such roots and cereals as the climate would permit. Along the
west side of Marsh Lake there is also much flat surface of the same
general character, on which I saw some coarse grass which would serve
as food for cattle. Along the east side the surface appeared higher
and terraced, and is probably less suited to the requirements of the
agriculturist. Along the head of the river, for some miles below Marsh
Lake, there are flats on both sides, which would, as far as surface
confirmation goes, serve as farms. The soil is of much better quality
than any heretofore seen, as is proven by the larger and thicker growth
of timber and underbrush which it supports. The soil bears less the
character of detritus, and more that of alluvium, than that seen above.
"On the lower end of the lake, on the west side, there is also a
considerable plain which might be utilized; the soil in parts of it is
good. I saw one part where the timber had been burned some time ago;
here both the soil and vegetation were good, and two or three of the
plants seen are common in this part of Ontario, but they had not the
vigorous appearance which the same plants have East.
"Northward from the end of the lake there is a deep wide valley, which
Dr. Dawson has named 'Ogilvie Valley.' In this the mixed timber, poplar
and spruce, is of a size which betokens a fair soil; the herbage, too,
is more than usually rich for this region. This valley is extensive,
and, if ever required as an aid in the sustenance of our people, will
figure largely in the district's agricultural assets.
"Below the lake the valley of the river is not, as a rule, wide, and
the banks are often steep and high. There are, however, many flats
of moderate extent along the river and at its confluence with other
streams. The soil of many of these is fair.
"About forty miles above the mouth of the Pelly River there is an
extensive flat on both sides of the Lewes. The soil here is poor and
sandy, with small open timber. At Pelly River there is a flat of
considerable extent on which the ruins of Fort Selkirk stand. It is
covered with a small growth of poplar and some spruce. The soil is a
gravelly loam of about eight inches in depth. This flat extends up the
river for some miles, but is all covered thickly with timber except a
small piece around the site of the fort.
"I think ten townships or 360 square miles, would be a very liberal
estimate of all the places mentioned along the river. This gives
us 230,400 acres, or, say 1,000 farms. The available lands on the
affluence of the rivers would probably double this, or give 2,000 farms
in that part of our territory, but on most of the farms the returns
would be meager. Without the discovery and development of large mineral
wealth, it is not likely that the slender agricultural resources of the
country will ever attract attention. In the event of such discovery
however, some of the land might be used for the production of vegetable
food for the miners, but even in that case with the transport
facilities which the district commands it is very doubtful if it could
compete successfully with the South and East.
"The amount of timber fit for use in building and manufacturing in the
district along the river is not at all important. There is a large
extent of forest which would yield firewood and timber for use in
mines, but for the manufacture of lumber there is very little. The
great bulk of the timber in the district suitable for manufacturing the
lumber is to be found on the islands in the river. On them the soil
is warmer and richer, the sun's rays striking the surface for a much
longer time and more directly than on the banks.
"To estimate the quantity of timber in the vicinity of the river, I
would say that one-fourth of the area I have given as agricultural land
would be a fair conjecture, but it must be borne in mind that there is
not more than a square mile or so of that in any one place, and most of
the timber would be small and poor.
"It may be said that the country might furnish much timber, which,
though not fit to be classed as merchantable, would meet many other
requirements of the only industry the country is ever likely to have,
viz., mining."
* * * * *
Surveyor Ogilvie's official report on the fauna of the Klondike
district is in the main as follows:
"The principal furs procured in the district are the silver, gray and
black fox, the number of which bears a greater ratio to the number of
red foxes than in any other part of the country. The red fox is very
common, and a species called the blue, is very abundant near the
coast. Marten, or sable, are also numerous, as are lynx, but otter are
scarce, and beaver almost unknown. It is probable that the value of
gray and black fox skins taken out of the country more than equals in
value all the other furs.
[Illustration: INDIAN PACKERS FORDING A RIVER]
"Game is not now as abundant as before mining began, and it is
difficult, in fact, impossible, to get any close to the river. A boom
in mining would soon exterminate the game in the district along the
river.
"There are two species of caribou in the country, one, the ordinary
kind found in most parts of the North-west, and said to much resemble
the reindeer; the other, called the wood caribou, a much larger and
more beautiful animal. Except that the antlers are much smaller it
appears to me to resemble the elk or wapiti. The ordinary caribou runs
in herds often numbering hundreds.
"There are four species of bear found in the district--the grisly,
brown, black, and a small kind locally known as the silver-tip, the
last being gray in color, with a white throat and beard, whence its
name. It is said to be fierce and not to wait to be attacked, but
to attack on sight. I had not the pleasure of seeing any, but heard
many 'yarns' about them, some of which I think were 'hunters' tales.'
It appears, however, that miners and Indians, unless traveling in
numbers, or especially well armed, give them as wide a berth as they
conveniently can.
"Wolves are not plentiful. A few of the common gray species only are
killed, the black being very scarce.
"The Arctic rabbit or hare is sometimes found, but they are not
numerous. There is a curious fact in connection with the ordinary hare
or rabbit, which I have observed, but of which I have never yet seen
any satisfactory explanation. Their numbers vary from the very few to
myriads in periods of seven years.
"The Alaskan birds include the grouse, ptarmigan, snipe, mallard and
teal duck, goose, loon, gray and bald eagle, sea parrot, gulls, auks
and many other sea fowls. The sea birds supply the Indians with a
profitable pursuit, gathering their eggs from the rocks. The eggs are a
staple article of diet with the natives.
"The food fishes are numerous, but the salmon easily leads them all in
importance, and the canning and drying of this dainty fish make the
third industry of this territory, gold being now the first, of course,
and furs the second."
No account of the animal life of the Klondike district would be
complete without mention of the insects, which make life a burden
during the summer in the interior. In the summer season when the days
are sometimes really hot there are swarms of mosquitoes and gnats
which have not their equal in the world, and which are enough alone to
discourage most men. The horse fly is larger than the insect of the
same name in the United States. In a preceding chapter Schwatka reports
that one of his party, bitten by a horse fly, was completely disabled
for a week. He adds, "At the moments of infliction it was hard to
believe that one was not disabled for life.
"The mosquitoes are equally distressing. According to the general terms
of the survival of the fittest and the growth of muscles most used to
the detriment of others, a band of cattle inhabiting this district in
the far future, would be all tail and no body, unless the mosquitoes
should experience a change of numbers.
[Illustration: THE WHITE HORSE RAPIDS]
"The Indians smear the hands and face with a mixture of grease
and soot, which prevents the pest from biting. At some seasons in
this country they are in such dense swarms that at night they will
practically cover a mosquito netting, fairly touching each other and
crowding through any kind of mesh. I have heard it asserted by people
of experience that they form cooperative societies and assist each
other through the meshes by pushing behind and pulling in front."