THE HURON TRACT.—JOURNAL OF DR. DUNLOP.—HIS HARDSHIPS.—I LEAVE GUELPH
FOR GODERICH.—WANT OF ACCOMODATION.—CURIOUS SUPPER.—REMARKABLE
TREES.—THE BEVERLY OAK.—NOBLE BUTTER-WOOD TREES.—GODERICH.—FINE WHEAT
CROP.—PURCHASE A LOG-HOUSE.—CONSTRUCTION OF A RAFT.
I had always wished to go to the Huron tract, whose fine lake, noble
forests, and productive soil, have made it a source of wealth to many a
settler. The climate too, was mild, and I had heard a great deal about
it from my gifted and facetious friend Dr. Dunlop, whose services in
exploring that part of their possessions were not only useful but
inestimable to the Company, and, in fact, to emigration in general.
“Dr. Dunlop, the Warden of the Company’s Woods and Forests, surveyed
the great Huron tract in the summer of 1827, assisted by the Chief of
the Mohawk nation, and Messrs. Sproat and MacDonald. They penetrated
the huge untravelled wilderness in all directions, until they came out
on the shores of the Huron, having experienced and withstood every
privation that wanderers can possibly be subject to in such places.”[1]
[1] Mac Taggart’s “Three Years in Canada.”
The Doctor himself has given a very accurate account of the valuable
resources of the Huron tract. He says in his journal—“I have already
adverted to its nature and fertility, and think I may be justified in
adding, such is the general excellence of the land, that if ordinary
care can be taken to give each lot no more than its own share of any
small swamp in its vicinity, it would be difficult, if not impossible,
to find two hundred acres together in the whole territory, that would
make a bad farm. Although the land may be capable of raising any kind
of produce usual in that country, yet some spots are more particularly
advantageous for particular crops. The black ash-swales (a kind of
swamp) make the best ground for hemp; as by the scourging effect of two
or three crops, the ground will be made more fit for the raising of
wheat, for which, in the original state, it is too strong. The rich
meadows by the side of the rivers, (more especially such as are
annually overflowed,) are ready without farther preparation, for
tobacco, hemp, and flax. The lower meadows, and meadows adjoining
Beaver dams, which are abundant, produce at this moment enormous
quantities of natural hay and pasture; and the rest of the land, for
the production of potatoes, Indian corn, wheat, and other grain, is at
least equal, if not superior, to any other land in the Canadas.
Independent of the swamps, the timber on the land is very soon
described.
“The sugar-maple is the principal growth, and the size and height which
it, as well as other trees, attains, sufficiently evince the strength
and power of the soil. Next to this come the beech, elm, and bass-wood,
in various proportions. In some instances, the beech and elm
predominate over the maple, but this is rare. Near the streams the
hemlock is found; and interspersed through the whole is the cherry,
butter-nut, the different species of oak, and the birch.”[2]
[2] Mac Taggart’s “Journal of Dr. Dunlop.”
In exploring this, then unknown, wilderness, Dr. Dunlop encountered
many difficulties, and was more than once in danger of
starvation—though an Indian Mohawk Chief shared his risks and
perils.[3] As he told a story admirably well, I was delighted to hear
him discuss his peregrinations over a glass of brandy-punch, of which
he was very fond. Whatever might have been his feelings at the time, he
only made a joke of his trials at the period in which he related them
to me.
[3] Mac Taggart’s “Journal of Dr. Dunlop.”
I should have experienced some regret in quitting Guelph, if the
society had been more to my taste. The only persons of education in
that town were, in fact, the Company’s officers, many of whom I might
reasonably expect to meet again at Goderich. Of course, I found some
exceptions, but the average was not in favour of Guelph. Besides, the
water was an attraction to me, as my Suffolk home was within a short
distance of the German Ocean. Brought up so near a sea-port, my natural
inclinations made me dislike an inland situation; and if I were not
going to have a sea-side residence, at least the shores of the mighty
Huron Lake came the nearest to it in my estimation.
I left Guelph early in June with Mr. Prior, the Company’s agent at
Goderich. Our road after leaving Springer’s in Blenheim lay through the
township of Wilmot to the southern boundary of the Huron tract, and
from thence nearly in a straight line to the town of Goderich at the
mouth of the river Maitland, on Lake Huron, on our route for a distance
of nearly seventy miles, being bounded on the east by the townships of
North Easthope, Ellice, Logan, McKillop, Hullett, and the east part of
Goderich to the west, by South Easthope, Downie, Fullarton, Hibbert,
Tucker Smith, and the west part of Goderich.
This road was a mere sleigh-track through the woods, newly cut out, and
rarely exceeding twelve feet in width. At this time we saw only three
log-cabins during the whole way, these being about twenty miles apart
from each other. These three were kept by Dutch or German emigrants,
who supplied travellers with whiskey and provisions—when they had
any—which was not always the case. Indeed, I can testify, to my sorrow,
to the uncertainty of finding a decent table provided for guests by
these foreigners; for I once had to stop at old Sebach’s, the centre
house, for the night, and being tired by a long day’s march through the
snow, I had calculated on making a capital supper. Not that I expected
anything better than tea, fried pork and bread and butter, to which,
hungry as I was, I should no doubt have done ample justice. Judge,
then, of my astonishment and disappointment, when mine hostess placed
before me a piece of dirty-looking Indian meal-bread, and a large cake
of beef-tallow, and, to wash down this elegant repast, a dish of crust
coffee without either milk or sugar, assuring me at the same time in
her broken English, “That she had nothing better in the house till the
return of her husband, who had gone fifty miles to the mill and store
for a supply of flour, groceries, and other fixings.”
Not being a Russian, I rejected the tallow with disgust, and made but a
sorry meal of the other delicacies.
On our route, we crossed several pretty streams, the principal of which
are the Avon, then called the Little Thames, the Big Thames, and the
Black Water. The Bayfield does not cross the road, though it makes a
bend close to it, and within sight. I believe I am correct in saying,
that we did not cross a single cedar-swamp from the time we entered the
Huron tract[4] till we reached Goderich, a distance of sixty-seven
miles. I consider this block the finest tract of land I ever travelled
over in Canada West.
[4] “This interesting portion of the Company’s possessions contains a
million of acres in one block, within the compass of which a bad farm
could scarcely be found. The soil is a rich black loam, on clay or
limestone; and as it is entirely timbered with the best kind of hard
wood, no land in the Province is so well adapted for the manufacture
of potash, an object of considerable importance to the industrious
settler. It is bounded, for an extent of sixty miles, by Lake Huron;
is a separate district; and Goderich, its principal town, where the
district courts are held, is situated at the confluence of the river
Maitland with Lake Huron, where it forms an admirable harbour. The
population of the town is seven hundred, and there are several good
stores and shops in it; mechanics carrying on some useful trades.
There are also an episcopal church and other houses of religious
worship, and a good school, where the higher branches of the classics
are taught, as well as the more ordinary routine of
education.”—Statistics published by the Canada Company.
The land is well timbered with the best description of hard wood,
amongst which is to be found in considerable abundance, the black
cherry. This tree grows often to a large size, and is used extensively
for furniture, particularly for dining-tables: if well made and
polished, it is little inferior to mahogany, either in appearance or
durability.
I remember, on this very journey, that Mr. Prior and myself were much
struck by the size and magnificent appearance of one of these
cherry-trees, which grew close to the road side, not far from the Big
Thames. Two years afterwards, passing the same tree, I got out of my
sleigh and measured the circumference as high as I could reach, which I
found to be ten feet seven inches, and, I should think, it was not less
than fifty feet in height from the ground to the first branch: it is a
great pity to see such noble trees as these either burned or split up
into fencing rails.
I think the largest tree of the hard wood species I ever saw in this
country, was near Bliss’s Tavern, in the township of Beverly, and it
was called the Beverly-oak.[5] I was induced to visit this giant of the
woods from the many accounts I had heard of its vast dimensions, and
was, certainly, astonished at its size and symmetry. I measured it as
accurately as I could about six feet from the ground, and found the
diameter to be as nearly eleven feet as possible, the trunk rising like
a majestic column towering upwards for sixty or seventy feet before
branching off its mighty head. Mr. Galt, who was induced to visit this
tree from my description has, in his “Autobiography,” mentioned the
height of the trunk from the ground to the branches, as eighty feet;
but I think he has overrated it. I was accompanied to the tree by the
landlord, who remarked, “that he calculated that he should cut that
’ere tree down some day, for he guessed it would make enough rails to
fence the side of a ten acre field”
[5] “On the road to Guelph, a short distance from Galt, there is an
uncleared portion of the primeval forest, on the edge of the township
of Beverly, where, in those days, a small tavern, convenient to rest
the horses of travellers, was situated. One day, when I stopped at
this house, while my horse was taking his corn, I strayed into the
woods, not many hundred yards, and came to a tree, the most stupendous
I had ever seen.
“At the first glance, the trunk reminded me of the London Monument,
an effect of the amaze which the greatness of its dimensions
produced. I measured its girth, however, at the height of a man
from the ground, and it was thirty-three feet, above which the
trunk rose without a branch to the height of at least eighty feet,
crowned with vast branches.
“This was an oak, probably the greatest known, and it lifted its
head far above the rest of the forest. The trees around, myrmidons
of inferior growth, were large, massy, and vigorous, but possessed
none of the patriarchal antiquity with which that magnificent
‘monarch of the woods’ was invested. I think, therefore, that I was
not wrong in imagining it the scion of a forest that had passed
away, the ancestral predecessor of the present woods.
“Had I been convinced it was perfectly sound, I would have taken
measures for cutting it down and sending home planks of it to
Windsor Castle. The fate that awaited it would have justified the
profanation. The doubt of its soundness, however, and the
difficulty of finding tools large enough to do it justice,
procrastinated the period of its doom. I recommended the landlord
of the tavern to direct his guests, from time to time, to inspect
this Goliath of oaks.”—Galt’s “Autobiography.”
I replied, “Surely, you would not be such a Goth as to cut down such a
splendid oak merely for fence-wood, when you have plenty of rail-timber
which will answer that purpose equally well; and, besides, it may be
the means of drawing customers to your tavern.”
“I do not know what you mean by a Goth; but I do know, if I could get a
crosscut saw long enough to cut that tree, I would not let it stand
there long; for you see it is mighty straight in the grain, and would
split like a ribbon.”
Thus was this gigantic specimen of the primeval forest preserved for a
time, because there was not a saw long enough to cut it through in
Canada. I dare say there are many old oaks in England that exceed this
in diameter; but I do not believe one is to be found whose length of
trunk can be at all compared to it.
On the flats about a mile from the mouth of the Maitland, are some very
large button-wood trees. There is one, in particular, growing near a
fine spring of water, the circumference of which appeared very vast,
though I did not measure it; but the tree was a complete shell, and had
a sort of natural arched doorway, just high enough to admit a
full-sized man. I was once inside this tree with Dr. Dunlop and eleven
other persons, at the same time. The trunk of this tree forked at
twelve or fourteen feet from the ground. There are several others of
this species near to the one I have described, of very large growth,
which apparently are sound, but not equalling it in size.
I left a noble oak-tree standing in the middle of one of my fields in
the township of Douro, which I hoped I should have been able to
preserve, as it was such a remarkably fine tree. It, however, was
doomed to destruction; for in the summer of 1838, it was twice struck
with lightning in the space of a week. The first time, the bark only
was furrowed by the electric fluid, but at the second stroke it was
split from the top to the bottom, and thrown down by the violence of
the shock. I measured this tree correctly, and found the diameter,
twenty-four feet from the ground, to be five feet three inches. The
length of the trunk was forty-eight feet up to the first branch, and it
was perfectly sound to within three or four feet of the soil.
Generally speaking, the white or American pine, from its vast length of
trunk, contains a larger number of cubic feet than any other tree in
the Canadian forest. I have seen several of these pines sold for masts,
the trunks of which were upwards of one hundred feet in length, and
full three feet in diameter, a third of the way up from the butt-end.
There is very little pine-timber on the Huron tract, which, though a
disadvantage in regard to building, is all the better in respect to the
land, hard wood being the best indication of a good soil.
I did not—as I have said—regret my transfer to Goderich, though that
flourishing town was then in its infancy, the most unpleasant aspect in
which any Canadian settlement can be viewed. Still, I am pleased that I
have had the opportunity of tracing some of these important places from
their dawn to their present prosperous condition.
I found the general aspect of the country level. There is scarcely a
rise of land sufficient to justify the appellation of hill from Wilmot
to Goderich; but as you approach the lake, the land becomes more
rolling, and better watered by fine spring streams.
I was quite delighted with the situation of Goderich, though the
town-plot was only just surveyed. Three frame-houses were in process of
building. A log-house, beautifully situated on a bold hill, overlooking
the harbour, called by Dr. Dunlop, the Castle,[6] and a dozen or so of
log-cabins, comprised the whole town of Goderich, most of the latter
being inhabited by French Canadians and half-breeds. The upper town is
situated on a fine cliff fronting the lake and harbour, and upwards of
one hundred feet above the level of the water.
[6] “In the afternoon of the following day, we saw afar off, by our
telescope, a small clearing in the forest, and on the brow of a rising
ground a cottage delightfully situated. The appearance of such a sight
in such a place was unexpected, and we had some debate, if it could be
the location of Dr. Dunlop, who had guided the land-exploring party
already alluded to. Nor were we left long in doubt; for on approaching
the place we met a canoe, having on board a strange combination of
Indians, velveteens and whiskers, and discovered within the roots of
the red hair, the living features of the Doctor. About an hour after,
having crossed the river’s bar of eight feet, we came to a beautiful
anchorage of fourteen feet water, in an uncommonly pleasant small
basin. The place had been selected by the Doctor, and is now the site
of the flourishing town of Goderich.”—Galt’s “Autobiography.”
The lower town comprises a few acres of alluvial flat, only a few feet
elevated above the river. This piece of land was destitute of trees or
stumps, and had evidently been cleared many years ago by the Indians,
who had cultivated it with Indian corn. I ploughed up this flat of land
for the benefit of the Company, and sowed it with oats in the spring of
’29; and, therefore, I can justly claim the honour—for the sake of
which I did it—of putting the first plough into the ground of the Huron
tract. I also put in four acres of wheat on the top of the hill near
the castle, in the fall of the same year, the yield of which was
upwards of forty bushels to the acre—a good yield for any country,
especially when it is considered that at least one-twelfth of the
ground may be fairly deducted for stumps of trees, stones, and other
obstructions, usually found in all new clearings. I believe, however, I
may say without exaggeration, that the Company’s tract may safely
challenge any other block of land of the same dimensions either in
Canada East or West, for fertility of soil, average yield per acre, or
healthiness of the climate.[7]
[7] “The Canada Company’s Huron tract is known to be one of the most
healthy and fertile settlements in Canada. The tract in the year 1842
contained 7101 souls. In June last year (1849) the Huron district
numbered 20,450 souls, according to official reports, exclusive of the
townships of Bosanquet and Williams. The Canada Company’s tract now
contains a population of 26,000 souls, showing an increase of 18,900,
and that the population has nearly quadrupled itself in seven years—a
progress of settlement of a tract of country scarcely exceeded in any
part of the North America.”—Information to Emigrants by Frederick
Widder, Esq.
I bought a small log-house and town-lot, or rather the good-will of
them, from a French Canadian, putting myself in his place with the
Company, with whom I completed the purchase. The situation was very
pretty, commanding a fine view of the Lake. I immediately prepared to
build a suitable house, to receive my wife and family, whom I had been
under the necessity of leaving behind me in Guelph, till I could make
suitable preparations to receive them here.
At this time, there was only one saw-mill[8] in the whole Company’s
tract, and that was ten miles up the river, situated near the mouth of
a large creek, which flowed into the Maitland. This mill was built
close to one of the finest pine-groves in the block.
[8] “In no situation can settlers be distant from a mill, as there are
at convenient places distributed throughout the tract twelve
grist-mills and twenty saw-mills, and the facilities for communication
are very great; for seventeen of the townships are bounded on the one
side by the great roads traversing the tract in two directions for one
hundred miles in extent, and six of them are bounded by the Lake on
the other side.”—Statistics published by the Canada Company.
I hired a man, who had been a raftsman on the Delaware, to go with me
by land up to the mill, for a few thousand feet of boards, that I
required for my new house. It was only seven miles to the mill by a new
cut-out sleigh-track, through the township of Goderich as far as the
Falls, which we crossed by wading the river just above them, which at
that time we were able to do, though not without some caution; for,
although the spring-floods were considerably abated, the water ran with
great rapidity, and in some places was up to our middles; but with the
help of a strong setting-pole, we got over with safety.
We made our little raft in three cribs, of a thousand feet of boards in
each crib, which we connected together by short pieces of scantling,
which are bored near each end with a two-inch auger and strung on the
corner-pickets of each crib, thus uniting them in one length. At each
end of the raft, a long oar is securely fixed, in temporary rowlocks
for that purpose.
The whole course of the river, from the mill to the harbour at
Goderich, is a strong rapid: two perpendicular falls occur in its
course to the lake. The Upper, or Big Fall, is about six feet, and the
Little Fall three. We made a capital run down, though in plunging over
the first Fall we were up to our arm-pits in water. But our little raft
rose gallantly to the surface; and we encountered no further
difficulty.
I enjoyed my trip down the river amazingly. I do not know anything more
delightful, when all goes well than being borne over the foaming rapids
at the rate of eight or ten miles an hour. The channel of the Maitland
is wide, and the banks picturesque. Our voyage did not exceed an hour,
though the distance was above nine miles.