LETTER XXXIX.

Rome.

Having said so much of St. Peter’s, unquestionably the finest piece

of modern architecture in Rome, allow me to mention some of the best

specimens of the ancient. I shall begin with the Pantheon, which, though

not the largest of the Roman temples, is the most perfect which now

remains. The Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus, and the Temple of Peace,

if we may trust to the accounts we have of the first, and to the ruins

of the second, in the Campo Vaccino, were both much larger than the

Pantheon. In spite of the depredations which this last has sustained

from Goths, Vandals, and Popes, it still remains a beauteous monument

of Roman taste. The pavilion of the great altar, which stands under the

cupola in St. Peter’s, and the four wreathed pillars of Corinthian brass

which support it, were formed out of the spoils of the Pantheon, which,

after all, and with the weight of eighteen hundred years upon its head,

has still a probability of outliving its proud rapacious rival. From

the round form of this temple, it has obtained the name of Rotunda. Its

height is a hundred and fifty feet, and its diameter nearly the same.

Within, it is divided into eight parts; the gate at which you enter

forming one: the other seven compartments, if they may be so called, are

each of them distinguished by two fluted Corinthian pillars, and as many

pilasters of Giallo Antico. The capitals and bases are of white marble;

these support a circular entablature. The wall is perpendicular for half

the height of the temple; it then slopes forward as it ascends, the

circumference gradually diminishing, till it terminates in an opening

of about twenty-five feet diameter. There are no windows; the central

opening in the vault admitting a sufficiency of light, has a much finer

effect than windows could have had. No great inconveniency can happen

from this opening. The conical form of the temple prevents the rain

from falling near the walls where the altars now are, and where the

statues of the Gods were formerly placed. The rain which falls in the

middle immediately drills through holes which perforate a large piece

of porphyry that forms the centre of the pavement, the whole of which

consists of various pieces of marble, agate, and other materials, which

have been picked up from the ruins, and now compose a singular kind of

Mosaic work.

The portico was added by Marcus Agrippa, the son-in-law of Augustus. It

is supported by sixteen pillars of granite, five feet in diameter, and

of a single piece each. Upon the frieze, in the front, is the following

inscription in large capitals:

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