There are also the severest denunciations against those who carry
away the smallest particle of the stone and mortar belonging to this
Chapel. The adventure of the burnt breeches, and others of a similar
nature, which are industriously circulated, have contributed as much
as any denunciation, to prevent such attempts. Had it not been for the
impressions they make, so great was the eagerness of the multitude to be
possessed of any portion of this little edifice, that the whole was in
danger of being carried away; not by angels, but piecemeal in the pockets
of the pilgrims.
The Holy House is divided, within, into two unequal portions, by a
kind of grate-work of silver. The division towards the west is about
three-fourths of the whole; that to the east is called the Sanctuary.
In the larger division, which may be considered as the main body of the
house, the walls are left bare, to shew the true original fabric of
Nazareth stone. These stones, which bear such a strong resemblance to
bricks, are loose in many places. I took notice of this to a pilgrim,
who entered with us: he smiled, saying, “Che la non habbia paura,
Padron mio, questi muri sono piu solidi degli Appenini.” At the lower,
or western wall, there is a window, the same through which the angel
Gabriel entered at the Annunciation. The architraves of this window are
covered with silver. There are a great number of golden and silver lamps
in this Chapel; I did not count them, but I was told there were above
sixty; one of them is a present from the republic of Venice: it is of
gold, and weighs thirty-seven pounds: some of the silver lamps weigh
from one hundred and twenty, to one hundred and thirty pounds. At the
upper end of the largest room is an altar, but so low, that from it you
may see the famous image which stands over the chimney, in the small
room, or Sanctuary. Golden and silver angels, of considerable size, kneel
around her, some offering hearts of gold, enriched with diamonds, and
one an infant of pure gold. The wall of the Sanctuary is plated with
silver, and adorned with crucifixes, precious stones, and votive gifts of
various kinds. The figure of the Virgin herself by no means corresponds
with the fine furniture of her house: she is a little woman, about four
feet in height, with the features and complexion of a negro. Of all the
sculptors that ever existed, assuredly St. Luke, by whom this figure is
said to have been made, is the least of a flatterer; and nothing can be
a stronger proof of the blessed Virgin’s contempt for external beauty,
than her being satisfied with this representation of her; especially if,
as I am inclined to believe, her face and person really resembled those
beautiful ideas of her, conveyed by the pencils of Raphael, Corregio,
and Guido. The figure of the infant Jesus, by St. Luke, is of a piece
with that of the Virgin: he holds a large golden globe in one hand, and
the other is extended in the act of blessing. Both figures have crowns
on their heads, enriched with diamonds; these were presents from Ann of
Austria, Queen of France. Both arms of the Virgin are inclosed within
her robes, and no part but her face is to be seen; her dress is most
magnificent, but in a wretched bad taste: this is not surprising, for she
has no female attendant. She has particular clothes for the different
feasts held in honour of her, and, which is not quite so decent, is
always dressed and undressed by the priests belonging to the Chapel; her
robes are ornamented with all kinds of precious stones, down to the hem
of her garment.
There is a small place behind the Sanctuary, into which we were also
admitted. This is a favour seldom refused to strangers of a decent
appearance. In this they shew the chimney, and some other furniture,
which, they pretend, belonged to the Virgin when she lived at Nazareth;
particularly a little earthen porringer, out of which the infant used
to eat. The pilgrims bring rosaries, little crucifixes, and Agnus
Dei’s, which the obliging priest shakes for half a minute in this dish;
after which, it is believed, they acquire the virtue of curing various
diseases, and prove an excellent preventative of all temptations of
Satan. The gown which the image had on when the chapel arrived from
Nazareth, is of red camblet, and carefully kept in a glass shrine.
Above a hundred masses are daily said in this Chapel, and in the church
in which it stands. The music we heard in the Chapel was remarkably
fine. A certain number of the chaplains are eunuchs, who perform the
double duty of singing the offices in the choir, and saying masses at
the altar. The canonical law, which excludes persons in their situation
from the priesthood, is eluded by a very extraordinary expedient, which I
shall leave you to guess.
The jewels and riches to be seen at any one time in the Holy Chapel, are
of small value in comparison of those in the treasury, which is a large
room adjoining to the vestry of the great church. In the presses of this
room are kept those presents which royal, noble, and rich bigots of all
ranks have, by oppressing their subjects, and injuring their families,
sent to this place. To enumerate every particular, would fill volumes.
They consist of various utensils, and other things in silver and gold;
as lamps, candlesticks, goblets, crowns, and crucifixes; lambs, eagles,
saints, apostles, angels, virgins, and infants: then there are cameos,
pearls, gems, and precious stones of all kinds, and in great numbers.
What is valued above all the other jewels is, the miraculous pearl,
wherein they assert, that Nature has given a faithful delineation of the
Virgin, sitting on a cloud, with the infant Jesus in her arms. I freely
acknowledge, that I did see something like a woman with a child in her
arms; but whether Nature intended this as a portrait of the Virgin Mary,
or not, I will not take upon me to say; yet I will candidly confess
(though, perhaps, some of my friends in the north, may think it is saying
too much in support of the Popish opinion) that the figure in this pearl
bore as great a likeness to some pictures I have seen of the Virgin, as
to any female of my acquaintance.
There was not room in the presses of the treasury, to hold all the silver
pieces which have been presented to the Virgin. Several other presses in
the vestry, they told us, were completely full, and they made offer to
shew them; but our curiosity was already satiated.
It is said, that those pieces are occasionally melted down, by his
Holiness, for the use of the State; and also, that the most precious of
the jewels are picked out, and sold for the same purpose, false stones
being substituted in their room. This is an affair entirely between the
Virgin and the Pope: if she does not, I know no other person who has a
right to complain.