Ferrara.
We arrived here early this morning. The magnificent streets and number of
fine buildings shew that this has formerly been a rich and flourishing
city. The present inhabitants, however, who are very few in proportion to
the extent of the town, bear every mark of poverty.
The happiness of the subjects in a despotic government depends much more
on the personal character of the sovereign, than in a free state; and the
subjects of little Princes, who have but a small extent of territory, are
more affected by the good and bad qualities of those Princes, than the
inhabitants of great and extensive empires. I had frequent opportunities
of making this remark in Germany, where, without having seen the Prince,
or heard his character, one may often discover his dispositions and turn
of mind, from examining into the circumstances and general situation
of the people. When the Prince is vain and luxurious, as he considers
himself equal in rank, so he endeavours to vie in magnificence with
more powerful sovereigns, and those attempts always terminate in the
oppression and poverty of his subjects; but when the Prince, on the
other hand, is judicious, active, and benevolent, as the narrow limits
of his territories make it easy for him to be acquainted with the real
situation and true interest of his subjects, his good qualities operate
more directly and effectually for their benefit, than if his dominions
were more extensive, and he himself obliged to govern by the agency of
ministers.
The Duchy of Ferrara was formerly governed by its own Dukes, many of
whom happened to be of the character last mentioned, and the Ferrarese
was, for several generations, one of the happiest and most flourishing
spots in Italy. In the year 1597 it was annexed to the Ecclesiastical
State, and has ever since been gradually falling into poverty and decay.
It must be owing to some essential error in the Government, when a town
like this, situated in a fertile soil, upon a navigable river near the
Adriatic, remains in poverty. Except the change of its Sovereign, all the
other causes, which I have heard assigned for the poverty of Ferrara,
existed in the days of its prosperity.
Though the citizens of Ferrara have not been able to preserve their trade
and industry, yet they still retain an old privilege of wearing swords by
their sides. This privilege extends to the lowest mechanics, who strut
about with great dignity. Fencing is the only science in a flourishing
condition in this town, which furnishes all the towns in Italy with
skilful fencing-masters. Ferrara was famous formerly for a manufactory
of sword-blades. The Scotch Highlanders, who had a greater demand for
swords, and were nicer in the choice of their blades than any other
people, used to get them from a celebrated maker in this town, of the
name of Andrea di Ferrara. The best kind of broadswords are still called
by the Highlanders True Andrew Ferraras.
There are two brass statues opposite to one of the principal churches.
One is of Nicholo Marquis of Este, and the other of Borso of Este, the
first Duke of Ferrara, whose memory is still held in great veneration in
this city. I had the curiosity to go to the Benedictine church, merely
to see the place where Ariosto lies buried. The degree of importance
in which men are held by their cotemporaries and by posterity, is very
different. This fine fanciful old bard has done more honour to modern
Italy, than forty-nine in fifty of the Popes and Princes to which she has
given birth, and while those, who were the gaze of the multitude during
their lives, are now entirely forgotten, his fame increases with the
progress of time. In his lifetime, perhaps, his importance, in the eyes
of his countrymen, arose from the protection of the family of Este; now
he gives importance, in the eyes of all Europe, to the illustrious names
of his patrons, and to the country where he was born.
The Emperor, and two of his brothers, lodged lately at the inn where we
now are. Our landlord is so vain of this, that he cannot be prevailed
on to speak on any other subject; he has entertained me with a thousand
particulars about his illustrious guests; it is impossible he should
ever forget those anecdotes, for he has been constantly repeating them
ever since the Royal Brothers left his house. I asked him what we could
have for supper. He answered, That we should sup in the very same room
in which his Imperial Majesty had dined. I repeated my question; and
he replied, he did not believe there were three more affable Princes in
the world. I said, I hoped supper would be soon ready; and he told me,
that the Archduke was fond of fricassee, but the Emperor preferred a fowl
plain roasted. I said, with an air of impatience, that I should be much
obliged to him if he would send in supper. He bowed, and walked to the
door; but, before he disappeared, he turned about and assured me, that
although his Majesty ate no more than an ordinary man, yet he paid like
an Emperor.
To perpetuate the memory of this great event, of the Emperor and his two
brothers having dined at this house, the landlord got an Ecclesiastic of
his acquaintance to compose the following pompous inscription, which is
now engraven upon a stone at the door of his inn.
QUOD
TABERNA HÆC DIVERSORIA
HOSPITES HABUERIT TRES FRATRES
CONSILIIS, MORIBUS, ET IN DEUM PIETATE,
PRÆCLAROS,
MARIÆ THERES. BOHEMIÆ ET HUNG.
REGINÆ, &c. &c.
ET TANTÆ MATRIS VIRTUTI SIMILLIMOS
MAXIMILIANUM AUSTRIÆ ARCHIDUCEM,
CENÆ ET QUIETATIS CAUSA,
TERTIO CALEND. JUNII M.DCC.LXXV.
DIE POSTERO PRANDIUM SUMPTUROS
PETRUM LEOP. MAGN. HETRUC. DUCEM,
ET JOSEPHUM SECUND. ROM. IMPERATOREM,
SECULI NOSTRI ORNAMENTUM ET DECUS,
NE TEMPORIS LONGITUDO
HUJUSCE LOCI FELICITATEM OBLITERET
PERENNE HOC MONUMENTUM.
No three persons ever acquired immortality on easier terms: it has only
cost them one night’s lodging at an indifferent inn, when better quarters
could not be had.