At Benihassan I have had a complete rocktomb perfectly copied; it will

serve as a specimen of the grandiose style of architecture and art of

the second flourishing time of the Old Empire, during the mighty twelfth

dynasty.[51] I think it will cause some surprise among Egyptologers,

when they learn from Bunsen’s work,[52] why I have divided the tablet of

Abydos, and have referred Sesurtesen and Amenemha, these Pharaohs, well

known through Heliopolis, the Faiûm, Benihassan, Thebes, and up to Wadi

Halfa, from the New Empire into the Old. It must then have been a proud

period for Egypt--that is proved by these mighty tombs alone. It is

interesting, likewise, to trace in the rich representations on the

walls, which put before our eyes the high advance of the peaceful arts,

as well as the refined luxury of the great of that period; also the

foreboding of that great misfortune which brought Egypt, for several

centuries, under the rule of its northern enemies. In the

representations of the warlike games, which form a characteristically

recurring feature, and take up whole sides in some tombs, which leads to

a conclusion of their general use at that period afterwards

disappearing, we often find among the red or dark-brown men, of the

Egyptian and southern races, very light-coloured people, who have, for

the most part, a totally different costume, and generally red-coloured

hair on the head and beard, and blue eyes, sometimes appearing alone,

sometimes in small divisions. They also appear in the trains of the

nobles, and are evidently of northern, probably Semitic, origin. We find

victories over the Ethiopians and negroes on the monuments of those

times, and therefore need not be surprised at the recurrence of black

slaves and servants. Of wars against the northern neighbours we learn

nothing; but it seems that the immigration from the north-east was

already beginning, and that many foreigners sought an asylum in fertile

Egypt in return for service and other useful employments.

I have more in mind the remarkable scene in the tomb of the royal

relation, Nehera-si-Numhotep, the second from the north, which places

the immigration of Jacob and his family before our eyes in a most lively

manner, and which would almost induce us to connect the two, if Jacob

had not really entered at a far later period, and if we were not aware

that such immigrations of single families could not be unfrequent.

These, however, were the precursors of the Hyksos, and prepared the way

for them in more than one respect. I have traced the whole

representation, which is about eight feet long, and one-and-a-half high,

and is very well preserved through, as it is only painted. The Royal

Scribe, Nefruhotep, who conducts the company into the presence of the

high officer to whom the grave belongs, is presenting him a leaf of

papyrus. Upon this the sixth year of King Sesurtesen II. is mentioned,

in which that family of thirty-seven persons came to Egypt. Their chief

and lord was named Absha, they themselves Aama, a national designation,

recurring with the light-complexioned race, often represented in the

royal tombs of the nineteenth dynasty, together with three other races,

and forming the four principal divisions of mankind, with which the

Egyptians were acquainted. Champollion took them for Greeks when he was

in Benihassan, but he was not then aware of the extreme antiquity of the

monuments before him. Wilkinson considers them prisoners, but this is

confuted by their appearance with arms and lyres, with wives, children,

donkeys and luggage; I hold them to be an immigrating Hyksos-family,

which begs for a reception into the favoured land, and whose posterity

perhaps opened the gates of Egypt to the conquering tribes of their

Semetic relations.

The city to which the rich rock-Necropolis of Benihassan belonged, and

which is named Nus in the hieroglyphic inscriptions, must have been very

considerable, and without doubt lay opposite on the left bank of the

Nile, where old mounds are still existing, and were marked on the French

maps. That the geography of the Greeks and Romans knows nothing of this

city, Nus, as indeed was true of many other cities of the Old Empire, is

not very astonishing, if it be considered that the five hundred years of

Hyksos dominion intervened. The sudden fall of the Empire and of this

flourishing city, at the end of the twelfth dynasty, is recognised by

some in the circumstance, that of the numerous rock-tombs, only eleven

bear inscriptions, and of these but three are completely finished. To

these last, broad pathways led directly up from the banks of the river,

which, at the steep upper end, were changed into steps.

Benihassan is, however, not the only place where works of the twelfth

dynasty were found. Near Bersheh, somewhat to the south of the great

plain, in which the Emperor Hadrian built, to the honour of his drowned

favourite, the city of Antinoe, with its magnificently and even now

partially passable streets, with hundreds of pillars, a small valley

opens to the east, where we again found a series of splendidly-made

rock-tombs of the twelfth dynasty, of which the greater portion are

unfortunately injured. In the tomb of Ki-si-Tuthotep the transportation

of the great colossus is represented, which was already published by

Rosellini, but without the accompanying inscriptions; from the latter it

is certain that it was formed of limestone (the hieroglyphic word for

which I first ascertained here), and was about thirteen Egyptian ells,

that is circa twenty-one feet, in height.[53] In the same valley, on the

southern rock wall, there is hewn a series of still older, but very

little inscribed tombs, which, to judge from the style of the

hieroglyphics, and the titles of the deceased, belong to the sixth

dynasty.

A few hours more to the southward comes another group of graves, also

belonging to the sixth dynasty; here King Cheops is incidentally

mentioned, whose name already appeared several times in an hieratic

inscription at Benihassan. At two other places, between the valley of El

Amarna, where the very remarkable rock-tombs of King Bech-en-Aten is

situated, and Siut, we found graves of the sixth dynasty, but presenting

few inscriptions. Perring, the pyramid measurer, has, in a recent

publication, attempted to establish the strange notion, which I found

also existed in Cairo, that the monuments of El Amarna were the work of

the Hyksos: others wished to refer them to a period anterior to that of

Menes, by reason of their certainly, but not inexplicable,

peculiarities; I had already explained them in Europe as contemporaneous

kings[54] of the eighteenth dynasty.

In the rock wall behind Siut, mighty tombs are gaping, in which we could

recognize the grand style of the twelfth dynasty already from a

distance. Here too, unfortunately, much has been lately destroyed of

these precious remnants, as it was found easier to break down the walls

and pillars of the grottoes, than to hew out the stones from the mass.

I learnt from Selim Pasha, the Governor of Upper Egypt, who received us

at Siut in the most friendly manner, that the Bedouins had some time

since discovered quarries of alabaster two or three hours’ journey into

the eastern mountains, the proceeds of which Mahommed Ali had presented

him, and from his dragoman I ascertained that there was an inscription

on the rocks. I therefore determined to undertake the hot ride upon the

Pasha’s horses, which he had sent to El Bosra for this purpose, from El

Bosra thither, in company with the two Weidenbachs, our dragoman and the

_khawass_. There we found a little colony of eighteen workmen, with

their families, altogether thirty-one persons, in the lonely, wild, hot

rock gorge, employed in the excavation of the alabaster. Behind the tent

of the overseer there were preserved, in legible, sharply-cut

hieroglyphics, the names and titles of the wife, so much revered by the

Egyptians, of the first Amasis, the head of the eighteenth dynasty, who

expelled the Hyksos, the remains of a formerly much larger inscription.

These are the first alabaster quarries, the age of which is certified by

an inscription. Not far from the place were others, which were already

exhausted in antiquity; from those now reopened they have extracted

within the last four months more than three hundred blocks, of which

the larger ones are eighty feet long and two feet thick. The Pasha

informed me, through his dragoman, that on our return I should find a

piece, the size and form of which I was myself to determine, of the best

quality the quarry afforded, which he desired me to accept as a

testimonial of his joy at our visit. The alabaster quarries discovered

in this region are all situated between Bersheh and Gauâta; one would be

inclined, therefore, to consider El Bosra as the ancient Alabastron, if

its position could be reconciled with the account of Ptolemæus; at any

rate, Alabastron has certainly nothing to do with the ruins in the

valley of El Amarna, as hitherto thought, to which also the relation of

Ptolemæus does not answer, and which seems to be quite different. The

hieroglyphical name of these ruins recurs continually in the

inscriptions.

In the rock chains of Gebel Selîn there are again very early, but little

inscribed, graves of the Old Empire, apparently of the sixth dynasty.

Opposite ancient Panopolis, or Chemmis, we climbed the remarkable rock

cave of the ithyphallic Pan (Chem).[55] It is dedicated by another

contemporaneous king of the eighteenth dynasty, whose grave we have

since visited in Thebes. The holy name of the city often occurs in the

inscriptions,--“Dwelling-place of Chem,” _i. e._ Panopolis. Whether

this, however, was the origin of the popular name, Chemmis, now Echmîn,

is much to be doubted. I have always found at Siut, Dendera, Abydos, and

other have cities, two distinct names, the sacred one and the popular

name; the first is taken from the principal god of the local temple, the

other has nothing to do with it.[56] My hieroglyphical geography is

extended almost with every new monument.

At Abydos we came to the first greater temple building. The last

interesting tombs of the Old Empire we found at Qasr e’ Saiât; they

belong to the sixth dynasty. At Dendera we visited the imposing temple

of Hathor, the best preserved perhaps in all Egypt.[57]

In Thebes we stayed for twelve over-rich, astonishing days, which were

hardly sufficient to learn to find our way among the palaces, temples,

and tombs, whose royal giant magnificence fills this spacious plain. In

the jewel of all Egyptian buildings, in the palace of Ramses Sesostris,

which this greatest of the Pharaohs erected in a manner worthy of

himself and the god, to “Ammon-Ra, King of the Gods,” the guardian of

the royal city of Ammon, on a gently-rising terrace, calculated to

overlook the wide plain on this side, and on the other side of the

majestic river, we kept our beloved King’s birthday with salutes and

flags, with chorus singing, and with hearty toasts, that we proclaimed

over a glass of pure German Rhine wine. That we thought of you with full

hearts on this occasion I need not say. When night came we first

lighted a pitch kettle, over the outer entrances between the pylones, on

both sides of which our flags were planted; then we let a green fire

flame up from the roof of the Pronaos, which threw out the beautiful

proportions of the pillared halls, now first restored to their original

destination by us, as festal halls; “Hall of the Panegyries,” ever since

thousands of years; and even magically animated the two mighty peace

thrones of the colossi of the Memnon.

We have put off more extensive research till our return; but to select

from the inexhaustible matter for our end, and with relation to what has

already been given in other works, will be difficult. On the 18th of

October we quitted Thebes. Hermonthis we saw _en passant_. The great

hall of Esneh was some years ago excavated by command of the Pasha, and

presented a magnificent appearance. At El Kab, the ancient Eileithyia,

we remained three days. Still more remarkable than the different temples

of this once mighty place are its rock-tombs, which belong chiefly to

the beginning of the War of Liberation against the Hyksos, and throw

much light upon the relation of the several dynasties of that period.

Several persons of consideration buried there bear the curious title of

a male nurse of a royal prince, expressed by the well known group of

_mena_, with the determinative of the female breast in Coptic,

[Illustration: Koptic];[58] the deceased is represented with the prince

in his lap.

The temple of Edfu is also among the best preserved of them; it was

dedicated to Horus and Hathor, the Egyptian Venus, who is once named

here “Queen of men and women.” Horus, as a child, is represented, as all

children are on the monuments, as naked, with his finger to his lips; I

had already explained from it the name of Harpocrates, which I have now

found completely represented and written as Harpe-chroti, _i. e._ “Horus

the Child.”[59] The Romans misunderstood the Egyptian gesture of the

finger, and made of the _child_ that _can_ not speak, the God of

Silence, that _will_ not speak. The most interesting inscription,

unremarked and unmentioned as yet by any one, is found on the eastern

outer wall of the temple, built by Ptolemaeus Alexander I. It contains

several dates of King Darius, of Nectanebus, and the falsely named

Amyrtæus, and has reference to the lands belonging to the temple. The

glowing heat of that day caused me to postpone the more careful

examination and the paper impression of this inscription till our

return.[60] Gebel Silsilis is one of the richest places in historical

inscriptions, which generally bear some reference to the ancient working

of the sandstone quarries.

At Ombos, I was greatly rejoiced to discover a third canon of

proportions of the human body, which is very different to the two older

Egyptian canons that I had found in many examples before. The second

canon is intimately connected with the first and oldest of the pyramid

period, of which it is only a farther completion and different

application. The foot is the unit of both of them, which, taken six

times, makes the height of the upright body; but it must be remarked,

not from the sole to the crown, but only as far as the forehead. The

piece from the roots of the hair, or the forehead to the crown, did not

come into the calculation at all, and occupies sometimes three-quarters,

sometimes half, sometimes less of another square. The difference between

the first and second canons concerns mostly the position of the knees.

In the Ptolemaic canon, however, the division itself is altered. The

body was not divided into 18 parts, as in the second canon, but into 21¼

parts to the forehead, or into 23 to the crown. This is the division

which Diodorus gives us in the last chapter of his first book. The

middle, between forehead and sole, falls beneath the hips in all the

three divisions. Thence downward, the proportions of the second and

third canons remain the same, but those of the upper part of the body

differ exceedingly; the head is larger, the breast falls deeper, the

abdomen higher; on the whole, the contour becomes more licentious, and

loses the earlier simplicity and modesty of form, in which the grand and

peculiar Egyptian character consisted, for the imperfect imitation of a

misunderstood foreign style of art. The proportion of the foot to the

length of the body remains, but it is no longer the unit on which the

whole calculation is based.

We were obliged to change boat at Assuan, on account of the Cataracts,

and had, for the first time for six months or more, the homeish greeting

of a violent shower and blustering storm, that gathered beyond the

Cataracts, surmounted the granite girdle, and burst with the most

thundering explosions into the valley down to Cairo, which (as we have

since learnt) it deluged with water in a manner scarcely recollected

before. Thus we too may say with Strabo and Champollion:--“In our time

it rained in Upper Egypt.” Rain is, in fact, so unusual here, that our

guards remembered no similar scene, and our Turkish _Khawass_, who is

intimately acquainted with the land in every respect, when we had long

had our packages brought into the tents and fastened up, never laid a

hand to his own things, but quietly repeated, _abaden moie_, “never

rain,” a word, that he had since been often obliged to hear, as he was

thoroughly drenched, and got a tremendous fever, that he was obliged to

suffer patiently at Philae.

Philae is as charmingly situated as it is interesting for its monuments.

The week spent on this holy island belongs to the most delightful

reminiscences of our journey. We were accustomed to assemble before

dinner, when our scattered work was done, on the elevated terrace of the

temple, which rises steeply above the river on the eastern shore of the

island, to observe the shades of the well-preserved temple, built of

sharply-cut, dark-glowing blocks of sandstone, which grow across the

river and mingle with the black volcanic masses of rock, piled wildly

one upon another, and between which the golden-hued sand pours into the

valley like fire-floods. The island appears to have become sacred at a

late period among the Egyptians, under the Ptolemies. Herodotus, who

went up to the Cataracts in the time of the Persians, does not mention

Philae at all; it was then inhabited by Ethiopians, who had also half

Elephantine in their possession. The oldest buildings, now to be found

on the island, were erected nearly a hundred years subsequent to the

journey of Herodotus, by King Nectanebus, the last but three of the

kings of Egyptian descent, upon the southern point of the island. There

is no trace of any earlier buildings, not even of destroyed or built-up

remains. Inscriptions of much older date are to be found on the great

island of Bigeh close by, called hieroglyphically Senmut. It was already

adorned with Egyptian monuments during the Old Empire; for we found

there a granite statue of King Sesurtesem III., of the twelfth dynasty.

The little rock-islet Konossa, hieroglyphically Kenes, has also very

ancient inscriptions on the rocks, in which a new, and hitherto quite

unknown, king of the Hyksos period is named. The hieroglyphical name of

the island of Philae has generally been read Manlak. I have found it

several times undoubtedly written Ilak. This, with the article, becomes

Philak, in the mouths of the Greeks Philai. The sign read “man” by

Champollion also interchanges in other groups with “i,” thus the

pronunciation I-lak, P-i-lak, Memphitic Ph-i-lak is confirmed.

We have made a precious discovery in the court of the great temple of

Isis, two somewhat word-rich bilingual, _i. e._ hieroglyphical and

Demotic decrees of the Egyptian priests, of which one contains the same

text as the decree of the Rosetta stone. At least, I have till now

compared the seven last lines, which not only correspond with the

Rosetta in the contents but in the length of each individual line; the

inscription must first be copied, ere I can say more about it; in any

case the gain for Egyptian philology is not inconsiderable, if only a

portion of the broken decree of Rosetta can be restored by it. The whole

of the first part of the inscription of Rosetta, which precedes the

decree, is wanting here. Instead of it, a second decree is there, which

relates to the same Ptolemæus Epiphanes; in the beginning the “fortress

of Alexander,” _i. e._ the city of Alexandria, is mentioned, for the

first time, upon any of the monuments hitherto made known. Both decrees

close, like the inscription of Rosetta, with the determination to set up

the inscription in hieroglyphical, Demotic, and Greek writing. But the

Greek inscription is wanting, if it were not written in red and rubbed

out when Ptolemy Lathyrus engraved his hieroglyphic inscriptions over

earlier ones.[61]

The hieroglyphic series of Ptolemies, which occurs here, again begins

with Philadelphus, while it begins with Soter in the Greek text of the

Rosetta inscription. Another very remarkable circumstance is, that

Epiphanes is here called the son of Philopator Ptolemæus, and Cleopatra

is mentioned, while according to the historical accounts the only wife

of Philopator was named Arsinoe, and is so named in the Rosetta

inscription and on other monuments. She is certainly also named

Cleopatra in one passage of Pliny; this would have been taken for an

error of the author or a mistake of the manuscripts, if a hieroglyphic

and indeed official document did not present the interchange of names.

There is consequently no farther reason to place, as Champollion-Figeac

does, the embassy of Marcus Atilius and Marcus Acilius from the Roman

Senate to Egypt to settle a new treaty concerning the Queen Cleopatra

mentioned by Livy, in the time of Ptolemæus Epiphanes, instead of under

Ptolemæus Philopator, as other authors inform us. We must rather

conceive, either that the wife and sister of Philopator had both names,

which would not obviate all the difficulties, or that the project which

Appian mentions of a marriage of Philopator with the Syrian Cleopatra,

who afterwards became the wife of Epiphanes, was carried out after the

murder of Arsinoe, without mention of it by the historians. Here

naturally means are wanting to me in order to bring this point clearly

out.[62]

The quantity of Greek inscriptions at Philae is innumerable, and

Letronne will be interested to hear that I have found on the base of the

second obelisk, still in its own place, of which a portion only went to

England with the other obelisk, the remains of a Greek inscription

written in red, and perhaps once gilt, like those lately discovered on

the base in England, but which is, of course, extremely difficult to

decipher. That the hieroglyphical inscriptions of the obelisks, which I

myself copied in Dorsetshire, besides the Greek on the base, and

subsequently published in my Egyptian Atlas, have nothing to do with the

Greek inscriptions, and were also not contemporaneously set up, I have

already stated in a letter to Letronne; but whether the inscription on

the second base had not some connection with that of the first is still

a question; the correspondence of the three known inscriptions seems

certainly to be settled.

The principal temple of the island was dedicated to Isis. She alone is

named “Lady of Philek;” Osiris was only Θεὸς σύνναος, which is

peculiarly expressed in the hieroglyphics, and is only exceptionally

called “Lord of Philek;” but he was “Lord of Ph-i-uêb,” _i. e._ Abaton,

and Isis, who was σύνναος there, is only occasionally called “Lady of

Ph-i-uêb.” From this it is evident that the famous grave of Osiris was

upon his own island of Phiuêb, and not on Philek. Both places are

distinctly indicated as islands by their determinations. It is therefore

not to be thought that the Abaton of the inscriptions and historians was

a particular place on the island of Philae; it was an island in itself.

So also do Diodorus and Plutarch intimate by their expression πρὸς

Φίλαις. Diodorus decidedly refers to the island with the grave of Osiris

as a distinct island, which was named ἱερὸν πεδίον, “the holy field,” by

reason of this grave. This is a translation of Ph-i-uêb, or Ph-ih-uêb

(for the h is also found expressed hieroglyphically), Koptic

[Illustration: Koptic] Ph-iah-uêb, “the sacred field.”[63] This

consecrated place was an Abaton, and unapproachable except for the

priests.

On the sixth of November we quitted the charming island, and commenced

our Ethiopian journey. Already at Debôd, the next temple lying to the

south, hieroglyphically Tabet (in Koptic perhaps [Illustration:

Koptic]), we found the sculptures of an Ethiopian King Arkamen, the

Ergamenes of the historians, who reigned at the time of Ptolemæus

Philadelphus, and stood probably in very friendly relations with Egypt.

In the French work on Champollion’s Expedition (I have not Rosellini’s

work with me) there is great confusion here. Several plates, belonging

to Dakkeh, are ascribed to Debôd, and _vice versâ_. At Gertassi we

collected nearly sixty Greek inscriptions. Letronne, who knew them

through Gau, has perhaps already published them; I am anxious to know

what he had made of the γόμοι, the priests of whom play a conspicuous

part in these inscriptions, and of the new Gods Σρούπτιχις and

Πουρεποῦνις.

With what inaccuracy the Greeks often caught up the Egyptian names is

again shown by the inscriptions of Talmis, which call the same god

Mandulis, which is distinctly enough in the hieroglyphic Meruli, and was

the local deity of Talmis. It is remarkable that the name of Talmis, so

frequently occurring in this temple, nowhere appears in the

neighbouring, though certainly much more ancient, the rock temple of Bet

el Ualli. Dendûr, also, had a peculiar patron, the God Petisi, who

appears nowhere else, and is usually named Peshir Tenthur; Champollion’s

plates are here again in strange disorder, the representations and the

inscriptions being wrongly put together.

The temples of Gerf Hussên and Sebûa are peculiarly remarkable, because

Ramses-Sesostris, who built them, here appears as a deity, and is

adorning himself, beside Phtha and Ammon, the two chief deities of this

temple. In the first, he is even once called “Ruler of the Gods.”

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