ST. MARY OVERIES
The Priory of St. Mary Overies, or Overy, was one of the most ancient
Houses in London. It stood beside the ferry, the south end of which was
the long and narrow dock still to be seen, close to the present church.
The other end of the ferry may be also still existing in what is now
called Dowgate Dock; it is true that this is not opposite, but it may
be surmised that Allhallows Lane led to the north end of the ferry.
This ferry existed long before London Bridge was built, and continued
long after. Indeed, if we consider the narrowness of the old bridge,
the tolls, crowded vehicles blocking the way, and the long delays that
must have occurred in getting across the bridge, we may very well
understand that it might be more expeditious and cheaper to cross by
the ferry than the bridge. Here, at all events, was the ferry, and at
the south end was a small convent of nuns engaged in praying for the
safety of the travellers. At every starting-point or returning-point
for the mediæval traveller, there was some religious foundation to
pray for his safety or to offer praises for his return; at four of
the London gates, there were churches dedicated to St. Botolph, the
chosen saint of travellers. Outside Cripplegate was the Church of St.
Giles. Outside Newgate was the Church of St. Sepulchre. Within Ludgate
was the Church of St. Martin. Over Fleet Bridge was the Church of St.
Bride. When the first stone bridge was erected over the Thames, a
double chapel was built in the midst of it; while it was only a wooden
bridge, there was a chapel at either end—the south chapel, singularly,
dedicated to a Danish saint. So that I am inclined to believe that
the small nunnery on the south of the ferry may possibly have had its
sister nunnery or church on the north; if a nunnery, its existence has
been clean forgotten; if a church, then All Hallows the Great may have
been that church.
[Illustration: This figure of a Knight Templar; carved in wood, &
painted, was taken up to make room for Lockyer’s Monument; and was
afterwards placed upright, against the North wall, near the Vestry door.
This Monument is placed on the ground under the North window in the
Spiritual Court, & is traditionally said to be in memory of Old Overie,
father of Mary Overie, foundress of the Priory.
From the Grangerised edition of _London and Middlesex_ in Guildhall
Library.]
The story of the first foundation is entirely legendary; one Mary,
daughter of Awdry, ferryman, is said to have founded on the site a
small House for nuns before the Conquest. It was converted, according
to tradition, by one Swithina into a College of Priests. It was,
however, refounded in 1106 by two Norman knights, William Pont de
l’Arche, who had a mansion in Dowgate, and William Dauncey, as a House
for Canons Regular. William Gifford, Bishop of Winchester, joined in
the foundation, and built the nave of the church. Henry the First,
another benefactor, gave to the House the Church of St. Margaret in
Southwark; King Stephen gave the Canons the House of their founder,
Pont de l’Arche. In 1212 the Priory was destroyed by fire. Then Peter
de Rupibus took the foundation, still very poor, in hand, and rebuilt
the church; he also founded the chapel of St. Mary Magdalen, afterwards
made into a Parish Church. A hundred years later the unhappy monks sent
a petition to Edward the First, stating that the House had fallen into
the deepest poverty; that they had not enough to provide the barest
necessaries, but were dependent on charity; that their church was
ruinous, but that they could not rebuild it; and that they had even
suffered the embankment to be carried away, and were in daily terror
of an inundation. They managed, however, to get along somehow during
the fourteenth century. Early in the fifteenth the House found two more
benefactors—Henry Beaufort, Bishop of Winchester, and Gower the poet.
The latter was buried in the church after residing for some years in
the House. His monument may still be seen. A list of the Priors from
1130 to 1540 has been preserved. The House, on the Dissolution, was
valued at £624: 6: 8. The Prior received, on the surrender, a pension
of £100 a year.
[Illustration: GOWER’S MONUMENT, ST. MARY OVERIES]
The position of the Priory, close to the Palace of the Bishop of
Winchester, made it convenient for many functions. In this church were
married, in 1406, Edward Holland, Earl of Kent, and Lucia, daughter of
the Lord of Milan. Here also, in 1424, was married James the First,
King of Scotland, a poet and scholar, of whom Drummond of Hawthornden
wrote that “of former kings it might be said that the nation made the
kings, but of this king, that he made the people a nation.” His bride
was Joan, daughter of the Earl of Somerset, and niece to Cardinal
Beaufort.
“The fairest and the freshest yonge flower
That e’er I saw, methought, before that hour.”
In 1539 the House was suppressed and given to Sir Anthony Brown, whose
son became Lord Montague, giving his name to the ancient cloister of
the Monastery. In the following year the church was made parochial,
including the Church of St. Mary Magdalen, which stood beside it, as
St. Gregory stood beside St. Paul’s, or St. Margaret by Westminster
Abbey, or St. Peter-le-Poor beside the Church of the Austin Friars.
A great many monuments are in the church: the chancel, transepts, and
tower, with the Lady Chapel, still remain, forming the finest of the
old churches in the whole of London.
Here lie buried, according to tradition, Mary, the foundress; the two
benefactors, Pont de l’Arche and Dauncey—a wooden figure may represent
one of them; John Gower, on whose monument may still be read the words
which he wrote for it:—
“En toy qui es Filz de Dieu le Père,
Sauvé soit qui gist sous cest pierre.
Lancelot Andrewes, Bishop of Winchester, is buried in the Lady Chapel;
Dyer the poet, who died 1607; Edmund Shakespeare, brother of the poet,
somewhere in the church; Laurence Fletcher, one of the shareholders in
the Globe, who died 1608; Philip Henslow, who died 1616; John Fletcher,
who died 1625; Philip Massinger, who died 1639. On the tomb of Richard
Humble, who lies with his two wives and his children, are the lines:—
“Like to the damask rose you see,
Or like the blossom on the tree,
Or like the dainty flower of May,
Or like the morning of the day,
Or like the sun, or like the shade,
Or like the gourd which Jonas had,
Even so is Man; Man’s thread is spun,
Drawn out, and cut, and so is done.
The rose withers, the blossom blasteth;
The flower fades, the morning hasteth;
The sun sets, the shadow flies,
The gourd consumes, and Man he dies.”
In the Lady Chapel of this church were held many of the trials of the
martyrs under the Marian persecution: those, for instance, of Bishop
Hooper, John Rogers, Bradford, Crome, Saunders, Ferrar, and Taylor. The
death of Gardiner, the persecutor, seemed, to the common people, by the
hand of God, in punishment of his cruelties. He was given, however, a
magnificent funeral, beginning at this church. Machyn describes it:—
“The xxiiij day of Feybruary was the obsequies of the most reverentt
father in God, Sthevyn Gardener, docthur and bysshope of Wynchastur,
prelett of the gartter, and latte chansseler of England, and on of the
preve consell unto Kyng Henry the viij and unto quen Mare, tyll he
ded; and so the after-none be-gane the knyll at Sant Mare Overes with
ryngyng, and after be-gane the durge; with a palle of cloth of gold,
and with ij whytt branchys, and ij dosen of stayffe-torchys bornyng,
and iiij grett tapurs; and my lord Montyguw the cheyffe mornar, and my
lord bysshope of Lynkolne and ser Robart Rochaster, comtroller, and
with dyvers odur in blake, and mony blake gownes and cotes; and the
morow masse of requeem and offeryng done, be-gane the sarmon; and so
masse done, and so to dener to my lord Montyguw (’s); and at ys gatt
the corse was putt in-to a wagon with iiij welles all covered with
blake, and ower the corsse ys pyctur mad with ys myter on ys hed, with
ys armes, and v gentyll men bayryng ys v baners in gownes and hods,
then ij harolds in their cote armur, master Garter and Ruge-crosse;
then cam the men rydyng, carehyng of torchys a lx bornyng, at bowt
the corsse all the way; and then sam the mornars in gownes and cotes,
to the nombur unto ij C. a-for and be-hynd, and so at sant Gorges
cam prestes and clarkes with crosse and sensyng, and ther they had a
grett torche gyffynt them, and so to ever parryche tyll they cam to
Wunchaster, and had money as many as cam to mett them, and durge and
masse at evere logyng.” Wilkinson, who gives several views of the
church and the buildings around it, has preserved one taken from the
north-east, which shows the whole north side of the church, with the
Little Chapel, the Lady Chapel, and the church itself, in the year
1813 (see p. 307). Montague Close, where the view was taken, was very
shortly after covered with buildings, which prevented a repetition of a
drawing from this point; but in 1825 he procured a sketch of the Little
Chapel and part of the Lady Chapel.
[Illustration: BISHOP ANDREWES’ TOMB, ST. MARY OVERIES]
The existence of the Little Chapel is nearly forgotten; yet it will be
seen, in considering the church as a whole, that it forms a natural
part. In the year 1626 this chapel was selected as a fitting place for
the tomb and monument of Lancelot Andrewes, now in the Lady Chapel.
From this monument the place was generally called the Bishop’s Chapel.
It is by the greatest good fortune this beautiful church has been
preserved. It would most certainly have been taken down, like the
exquisite church of the Holy Trinity Priory, like those of Eastminster,
Whitefriars, and Blackfriars, but for the interference of Stephen
Gardiner, who supported—and doubtless instigated—the parishioners
of St. Margaret’s and St. Mary Magdalene, in a petition to the King
praying for the church of the Priory as their parish church. The
petition was granted, and the church was saved.
Not, certainly, in the life of Stephen Gardiner, but after his death,
in the time of Queen Elizabeth, though the church was safe, the Lady
Chapel, and, of course, the Little Chapel with it, was desecrated. In
Anthony Munday’s edition of Stow, 1633, he tells us to what base uses
this noble chapel was put:—
“It is now called, _The new Chappell_; and indeed, though very
old, it now may be cal’d a new one, because newly redeemed from such
use and imployment, as in respect of that it was built to, Divine
and Religious duties, may very well be branded, with the stile of
wretched, base, and unworthy, for that before this abuse, was (and
is now) a faire & beautifull Chappell, by those that were then the
Corporation (which is a body consisting of 30. Vestry men, sixe of
those thirty, Churchwardens) was leased and let out, and this House of
God made a Bake-house.
Two very faire doores, that from the two side Iles of the Chancell
of this Church, and two that throw the head of the Chancell (as at
this day they doe againe) went into it, were lath’t, daub’d, and
dam’d up: the faire Pillars were ordinary posts, against which they
piled Billets and Bavens; in this place they had their Ovens, in that
a Bolting-place, in that their Kneading-trough, in another (I have
heard) a Hogs-trough; for the words that were given mee were these,
This place have I knowne a Hog-stie, in another a Store-house, to
store up their hoorded Meale: and in all of it, something of this
sordid kind & condition.
It was first let by the Corporation afore named, to one Wyat, after
him to one Peacocke, after him to one Cleybrooke, and last to one
Wilson, all Bakers, and this Chappell still imployed in the way of
their Trade, a Bake-house, though some part of this Bake-house was
sometime turned into a Starch-house.
The time of the continuance of it in this kind, from the first
letting of it to Wyat, to the restoring of it againe to the Church;
was threescore and some odde yeeres, in the yeere of our Lord God
1624, for in this yeere the ruines and blasted estate that the old
Corporation sold it to, were by the Corporation of this time repaired,
renewed, well, and very worthily beautified; the charge of it for
that yeere, with many things done to it since, arising to two hundred
pounds.
This, as all the former Repaires, being the sole cost and charge of
the Parishioners.
One Ile in this Chappel, was paved at the onely cost of one Master
_John Hayman_, Taylor, and Merchantaylor, in the yeere 1625.”
[Illustration: GATEWAY OF ST. MARY’S PRIORY, SOUTHWARK
_Londina Illustrata_, vol. i.]
It was, therefore, immediately after this restoration that the remains
of Bishop Andrewes were deposited in the Little Chapel. May there
not have been some thought of preventing further desecration by the
monument of this learned Divine?
The Chapel was taken down in 1830. The monument of the Bishop took up
nearly the whole of the east end; a marble canopy originally stood
over it, but this was broken in 1676 when the roof of the Chapel fell
in; there was no altar and there were no services held in the Chapel;
there was one other monument of a citizen named Hayman, buried here in
the same year as the Bishop. Another monument, erected in 1807, was
that of Abraham Newland, chief cashier of the Bank of England. Two
stone coffins were preserved in this Chapel; and here were stone steps
leading down into the vaults; the Chapel is said to have been quite
plain, “with a groined roof, strong ribs, and a stone seat on both
sides and at the east end.”
The removal of the Chapel formed part of the restoration work of 1830.
At this time the church was in a most dangerous condition, the roof of
the nave being so dilapidated that it was impossible to hold service
there. Consequently the pews, organ, and monuments were removed to the
chancel and transepts; the roof was taken down and the materials sold;
and the walls and aisles were simply left exposed to the weather.
Wilkinson thus describes what followed:—
“The roof thus destroyed was a fine specimen of the architecture of
the thirteenth century, and possessed the striking peculiarity of
having the corbels, whence the ribs of the arches sprang, placed
perpendicularly over the columns. Those columns had been already banded
with iron, and the walls were green and dark with apparent decay,
though it is said that some of the ancient timbers were still in a
fine state of preservation; but in pursuance of the above order, the
organ was removed to form a temporary termination to the choir, and
the nave was uncovered and exposed; in which lamentable state it still
continues, August 1834, not unlike the half-ruined edifice of the
Cathedral of Llandaff.
[Illustration: ANCIENT CRYPT, SOUTHWARK]
The very laudable, zealous, and preserving efforts made for the
preservation of the Lady Chapel at the eastern end of the Church,
were, however, completely successful; though it was for some time
earnestly debated whether it should be destroyed or restored. But even
in the vestry the design of demolition was opposed, and on January
28th, 1832, a numerous general meeting for the preservation of the
structure took place at the Freemasons’ Tavern, at which a series of
Resolutions was passed to that effect. The principal of them were,
That the few remaining reliques of Gothic, or Early English Pointed
style of architecture in this kingdom, are replete with interest:
That the Chapel of Our Lady in St. Saviour’s Church is a splendid
specimen of that style of architecture: That as the Parish of St.
Saviour has expended £30,000 in the repair of this Church, of which a
debt of £8000 is unpaid, it is expedient that a public subscription be
commenced to enable the Parish to restore the Lady Chapel; and that
a Committee be appointed to promote the restoration by soliciting
public subscriptions. Notwithstanding the very great expense, which
the rebuilding of St. Saviour’s Church had already proved to the
Parish, it was evident, by some of the speeches at this meeting, that
the design of demolishing the Lady Chapel was not by any means even
partially sanctioned in Southwark, but only that the assistance of the
public was required for so costly an undertaking; but it was perhaps
almost entirely owing to the unwearied and meritorious exertions of Mr.
Thomas Saunders, that so general and lively an interest was excited on
the subject. The estimated amount of the restoration was £2500, and
by February nearly £1400 had been raised; but the sentiments of the
parishioners were most equivocally displayed at the general poll which
had been demanded by Mr. Saunders of all the parochial rate-payers,
and which took place on February 9th and 10th; the conclusion being a
majority of 240 for the restoration of the building. The subscriptions
were subsequently continued with great zeal, and were also extended
to the restoration of the ancient altar-screen in the choir; for the
effecting of all which they were aided by a performance of Sacred
Music in the Church, on Thursday, June 21st, 1832, and the delivery of
some scientific lectures. The superintendence of the Restoration was
gratuitously undertaken by Mr. Gwilt, Mr. Hartley was the contractor
for the building, and the first stone of the new works was laid July
28th, 1832. The two annexed modern Exterior Views of this Church will
convey an accurate notion of the appearance of the outside of the
Lady Chapel before this restoration; excepting that it then showed
four dilapidated and tiled gables, and that the part from which the
Bishop’s Chapel had been removed was white, whilst the remainder was
defaced and discoloured stone, coarsely repaired with brick. In taking
down the arch which led into the Bishop’s Chapel was discovered part
of the fabric of the lancet-window originally in that place; which
became a most valuable model for the restoration of the others. In
the present perfected state of this edifice, the eastern end of it
exhibits the four original gables, each surmounted by a rich cross,
and containing in the point a small triple lancet window, with carved
corbelheads and columnated-mullions; with a large window of the same
description below. The form of the glazing in the latter consists of
large intersected circles and lozenges; with some armorial ensigns,
etc., in stained glass. The roofs of the Chapel are covered with lead,
and the walls are of flints like those of the other restored parts of
the Church, with stone mouldings and quoins; the four buttresses, and
the north-east turret containing the staircase are also restored in a
similar manner; the latter having loopholes and a low cap of stone. On
each side of the building also the peculiar windows have been likewise
carefully copied. Within, the Lady Chapel is 42 feet in length, and has
the roof divided into nine groined arches, supported by six octangular
columns, with circular shafts at their angles. When this place was
formerly used for the Consistorial Court of the Bishop of Winchester,
and the Visitations of the Deanery of Southwark, the north-east corner
was parted off in the manner of a pew, and contained a desk, table,
and elevated seat; but the remainder of the space was abandoned to the
reception of lumber.
Whilst the restoration of the Chapel was in agitation, a further
difficulty appeared in the very narrow frontage to be allowed for it
on the south approach forming to the New London Bridge. So early as
November 1830, the Wardens of St. Saviour’s addressed a memorial to the
Bridge-Committee, soliciting a sufficient space for the exhibition of
the structure, and suggesting an opening of 130 feet. On April 19th,
1831, it was resolved by the vestry that the width of 60 feet, offered
by the Committee, was altogether inadequate, added to which it was
made a condition of that grant that the Lady Chapel should be taken
down; and, therefore, in the following October the Wardens memorialised
the Lords of the Treasury. In an interview between them, the latter
appeared to be in favour of a greater opening, but on January 24th,
1832, the Wardens were informed that not more than 70 feet would be
allowed, and that space only on condition of removing the Chapel,
if the consent of the Bishop of Winchester could be procured. In a
letter on the subject, however, the Bishop declined giving his consent
to the London Bridge Company; stating that it could not be alleged
that the removal of the Consistorial Court was required for public
accommodation, which he viewed as the only justifiable reason for the
demolition of a Church, or any part of one. It was then resolved to
petition the Committee of the House of Commons appointed on the Bill
for Improving the Approaches to the New London Bridge; by which it was
decided, on February 29th, 1832, after four days’ deliberation, and by
a majority of 17 to 3, that the opening to St. Saviour’s Church should
be 130 feet instead of 70, as proposed by the original framers of the
Bill. The houses on the west side of Wellington Street opposite the
Lady Chapel, are therefore terminated so as to form the sides of a
handsome approach to it. From hence at a future time a flight of steps
may be formed to the building beneath, and an appropriate rail also
erected round the church, but at present the structure is defended on
the east only by a high circular enclosure of boards.
[Illustration: NORTH EAST VIEW OF ST. SAVIOUR’S CHURCH.
_CONSISTORY COURT AND CHAPEL OF_ S^T. JOHN
Taken from Montague Close, Southwark.
_Londina Illustrata_, published 1813 by Robert Wilkinson, No. 58
Cornhill.]
The last meritorious work of restoration in St. Saviour’s Church was
that of the ancient Altar Screen given in the commencement of the
sixteenth century by Richard Fox, Bishop of Winchester; a subscription
for which was ultimately united with that commenced for the Lady
Chapel. To the latter of these funds the present Bishop of Winchester
gave £300, and £100 to the Screen; and other large sums were speedily
and liberally contributed. Previously to Mr. Gwilt’s restoration of the
choir, the eastern wall of the Church was covered with a composition
of wood and plaster, ascribed by tradition to Sir Christopher Wren,
though apparently without any authority. Above this Screen appeared
the mutilated and inelegant broad window of the sixteenth century, the
arch of which was sculptured in relievo, in panels; that in the centre
having an angel holding a shield, and those at the side, a pelican
feeding her young, the emblem of Christ, and the device of Bishop Fox.
There was also a carved facia, on which the pelican was repeated, with
the holy lamb and oak leaves, the style of all which entirely disagreed
with that of the altar-piece below. On the removal of the modern
screen, a series of small tabernacle-niches was discovered on the
partition behind, the canopies of which had been cut down to almost a
level surface; though they still possessed so much beauty as to cause
the restoration of the whole to become a circumstance of the greatest
interest. This was completed in the commencement of 1834, by Mr. Robert
Wallace, the Architect of the Church, Mr. Firth, the Contractor, and
Mr. Purdy, the principal Carver; the contract amounting to only the
sum of £700. The ancient material of this Screen was Firestone and the
stone of Caen; and the restoration has been executed in stone from
Painswick, in Gloucestershire, which agrees well with the former.
Wherever it was practicable the original work has been retained, but
nearly the whole of the ornamental carvings have been wrought from
moulds and replaced in the precise situations of the ancient sculpture
whence they were taken. The whole screen is lofty, and the general
composition of it is divided into three stories in height and as many
partitions in breadth. In the centre of the lowest story is a space for
the altar, with three tall tablets and canopies above; and on each side
is a door with a depressed pointed arch. On each side of the doorways
is a niche rising from the ground, flanked by slender buttresses and
covered with a triangular tabernacle of two canopied arches, with the
angular point in front. In each niche is a tall pedestal with a richly
carved head; and above the doors are short double canopies of a similar
style, though rising above those on the sides, and breaking the line of
a broad frieze of demi-angels, above which is a narrow line of carved
pelicans, holy lambs, and scrolls. These terminate the first story; and
the above second and third are composed of a large niche in the centre,
with a semi-hexagonal canopy, placed between five niches on each side,
with pedestals and canopies like those below; whilst a second frieze of
angels, etc., parts the two stories. As the story finished the remains
of the ancient screen, Mr. Wallace has designed a termination of an
entablature of angels supporting shields, with a crown-like cornice
above; something similar to which most probably surmounted the original
design.” (_Londina Illustrata_, vol. i.)