THE MELANCHOLY MARCH THROUGH THE WILDERNESS.
"They wandered in the wilderness in a solitary way, they found
no city to dwell in. Hungry and thirsty, their soul fainted in
them. Then they cried unto the Lord in their trouble, and he
delivered them out of their distresses."
The first view of our solitary landing-place revealed to us a wild and
barren region. Neither traces of cultivation, nor marks of human abode,
nor even tracks of living creature, met our eye in all the adjacent
landscape; and my heart misgave me at the prospect, lest we had only
exchanged the scene of our miseries, but not escaped from them. The
idea of delay in obtaining succours was too painful to indulge, for
every hour only added to the horrors of our situation.
Our scanty supplies were rapidly wasting away, and the strength of the
people was already well nigh spent by fatigue and famine. I dared not
to anticipate the consequences of even a short continuance of such a
state of things, and felt that our utmost efforts must be directed to
urgent measures for immediate deliverance.
Meanwhile, every arrangement was made for present exigencies. A small
refreshment was distributed immediately after landing, and our weary
men set about the erection of tents, which were soon reared, by lashing
a few spars together and overlaying them with sails and blankets.
This shelter was peculiarly seasonable to persons, who, for nine days
and nights had not known the luxury of lying down, or resting their
exhausted frames; especially as an African sun was blazing in noon-tide
brilliancy, and with insufferable fierceness over our heads. Our wasted
people soon betook themselves to repose and I was pleased to find that
the greater number of them were soon lost in sweet forgetfulness of
all their woes. As for myself, sleep had so long been a stranger to my
aching frame, that it refused at first to revisit me, and my mind was
too anxiously concerned for the future to court its present approach.
So soon, therefore, as I found the others asleep, Mr. Wallace the mate,
and I--who had lain down together, and were alike wakeful--rose up
and went forth to consult as to our future course of proceeding. We
were agreed in thinking that the parched and desolate appearance of
the place gave little hope of finding water, or of obtaining relief;
and that our whole and instant efforts must be directed to discover
succours by sea or land. Two courses only presented themselves: the
first, which was to re-enter the boats, and endeavour to reach the
Cape colony by sea, was plainly impracticable from the severity of the
weather; the sea at that moment being visible below us in its wildest
majesty, as it thundered its mountainous billows against the base of
the rocks, and scattered its angry foam over the cliffs to a hundred
and twenty feet above its bed. Besides, we were conscious that even in
calmest weather, our company could not possibly survive for twenty-four
hours, under a renewed exposure and crowding in the boats, without a
fresh supply of water and provisions. We were shut up, therefore, to
the only available alternative of seeking succour by a land journey,
and by keeping a southerly course in the direction of the Cape, we
hoped that we might soon reach some human habitation. I proposed that
we should remain till the expiry of the following day, in order to
recruit our people for the journey, and to complete the necessary
preparations for our departure. Meanwhile a search could be made for
water, and I would endeavour to obtain an observation at noon, in order
to certify our exact latitude, and ascertain our distance from the
Cape. This course was afterwards submitted to the whole company, and as
it met their approval, it was adopted.
We had carried George Peat ashore from the boat in a dying state. Every
thing was done for his comfort which our circumstances would permit,
but the poor lad was beyond the reach of relief. He lingered in painful
unconsciousness till the following morning, when he died. The body
of John Chisholm was also brought on shore in the skiff, and covered
with the Union Jack, until we had leisure to dig a grave. The two
youths were respectfully buried on the successive afternoons, divine
service being performed at their interment. They lie side by side on
that desert shore where they met their fate, and their pilgrimage
ceased,--where no footstep of friendship shall ever trace the unknown
scene of their last repose, and only the murmurs of ocean disturb its
solitary stillness.
After evening service had been conducted in the tent, we kindled a fire
to preserve us from any attacks of wild beasts, and committed ourselves
to rest. I enjoyed a few hours of sweet sleep that evening, for the
first time after my long watching, and awoke considerably refreshed
and invigorated. By four o'clock in the morning our whole party were
astir, and went off in detachments at daylight, to search for water;
but after wandering for two hours, in survey of all the surrounding
coast, they returned, as we feared, dispirited and unsuccessful. A
vegetable was found in great abundance which was full of sap, but on
tasting it we discovered that it was saturated with salt, and unfit
for use. The only supply which the region afforded was shell-fish,
which for the same reason, with our scanty allowance of water, could
only be sparingly used. The situation of our tent in the low grounds
was now found to be insufferable on account of the intense heat, so
that I proposed to shift it to the rising ground behind, in order to
obtain a freer circulation of air. But our people were so feeble as to
be unfit for the exertion, and it was only after great labour, and by
bribing them with a tea-spoonful of wine, that this measure of relief
was accomplished. The ladies meanwhile were employed, in preparations
for our journey of the following day, by making canvass bags to hold
our provisions; and the precious remainder of water was emptied from
the cask into bottles and jars, so as to be easy of carriage on the
road. I could only get an overhead observation for the latitude at
noon, in consequence of the sun being over the land. My calculation
agreed with my previous conjecture, that we were north of the Oliphant
(or Elephant's) River, about eleven miles; but as Norie's Epitome,
which was my only book of reference snatched from the burning ship,
gave me no example for working such an altitude, I could not certify
the accuracy of the reckoning. However, my repeated trials convinced
me that I could not be more than a mile or two from the truth, and we
determined, therefore, to start in that direction on the morrow, in the
hope of finding some settlement on the river's banks.
Our preparations for departure being completed, we lay down to
sleep, under the same precautions as on the previous night, and were
aroused at four o'clock to pursue our journey. Previous to starting,
I distributed among the ladies and cabin passengers, so far as they
would go, seven of my white shirts to serve as change of linen, they
having been discovered in the boat on our landing. We had at this time
six days' allowance of water, at the rate of three bottles a day to our
twenty-six persons, or scarcely three table-spoonfuls to each, which,
in our already fevered and maddening thirst, and under a broiling
tropical sun, was not nearly sufficient to sustain life. A small
surplus, however, was found in the water-cask after all our bottles
were filled, which was distributed among the company, and served to
refresh us at departure. We broke some oars for carrying-poles, and
distributed the stores among the responsible persons in the company,
with strict injunctions that they should restrict themselves to the
general allowance, as any breach of fidelity might sacrifice the lives
of the whole party. After the celebration of divine worship, in which
we committed our way to God, we set out on our melancholy journey. Our
road lay before us through "a waste howling wilderness," and we "went
out, not knowing whither we went;" but our trust was in that God, "who
had found Israel in a desert land, and kept him as the apple of his
eye," and we hoped that he would lead us also forth "by a right way,
that we might go to a place of habitation."
Our company presented a most wretched appearance in the march, and we
soon proved ourselves to be indeed miserable travellers. Our limbs
had swelled to an inordinate size in consequence of our confinement
and exposure in the boats, and they were so stiffened with inactivity
as only to be dragged along with difficulty. The ground over which we
toiled our way was unfavourable for progress in our faint condition,
being, for the most part, loose and sandy, and occasionally tangled
with small shrubs: and as we went our way, struggling, and staggering
beneath our light loads, we bore a striking resemblance to the last
remnant of a famished garrison, or the latest fugitive survivors of a
siege. We accomplished about a mile, when we sat down to rest,
and stripped ourselves of all our upper clothing, on account of the
oppressive heat. After a short pause we again resumed our journey,
and with great difficulty reached a similar distance. It was only
after much persuasion that I induced them again to stir; but there was
no shelter in the place from the fierce rays of the sun; and I was
extremely anxious, in our desperate circumstances, which were every
moment growing darker, to make all the progress possible. About noon
we discovered two huts under the cliff, and were of course anxious to
reach them; but they were inaccessible to us, in our weak condition. We
halloed, however, with all our might, to find if they had any inmates;
but as "there was no voice that answered, neither any that regarded,"
we justly concluded that they were uninhabited, and could furnish
no relief to us, so that we turned mournfully away, and pursued our
journey. I afterwards learned that these huts belonged to a fishing
company, and were deserted; a few casks of water were kept there, for
the supply of their vessels, but these were kept under ground, so that
we would have found no relief by visiting the place, and most probably
would have perished in the attempt. Soon after we likewise descried
traces of a path which led into the interior, which some of our people
were inclined to follow; but I dissuaded them from the attempt, as the
coast was the coolest region, as well as the most likely to lead us to
water; whereas we might only wander in the wilderness to die the most
horrid death. We accomplished altogether about six miles by this day's
journey, and halted at last, in utter exhaustion, on a promontory,
where we were exposed to the sea breeze.
On collecting our party, to overhaul our stock, I found that one of
the cabin passengers, who had been quite delirious for some days,
having fallen behind us on the day's march, on account of weakness, had
cast away his coat, containing two bottles of water, from anxiety to
overtake his party. Every search was made for this lost treasure and
valuable supply, but to no purpose. To add to the misfortune, another
cabin passenger, from whose education I might have expected better
conduct, alone, of all the people, proved himself unworthy of trust.
Of the two bottles committed to his charge, one was found empty. He
had stolen from his party during the day, under pretence of tracking
the path into the interior, and the temptation proving too strong for
him, he had consumed a whole bottle for his own use. This I concealed
from our people, for I am certain that, if they had known it, they
would have taken his life on the spot. But I was deeply grieved to find
that a whole day's supply of this scarce and vital commodity had been
lost to us through the imbecility and profligacy of our companions. To
prevent the recurrence of such a calamity, which would have endangered
the lives of all of us, I put the water, henceforth, under the charge
of my confidential seamen; and after our evening's repast and prayers,
we betook ourselves to sleep.
During night a heavy dew fell, mingled with a few drops of rain, which
roused us from our slumbers, and our people commenced greedily to suck
the moisture from the blankets; but they having been soaked by sea
water, and only dried in the sun, were so impregnated with salt that we
soon desisted from an endeavour which brought us no relief. As morning
dawned our pleasing expectation of rain departed, and with heavy hearts
we prepared to pursue our course. The condition of our people at this
time was extremely distressing, their faces had become bloated and
disfigured, and their lips were rent and chapped, while the painful
swelling in the arms and legs was rapidly on the increase, so that I
apprehended some of them would not be able to hold on till night. I
sought to rally their downcast spirits, by feigning a cheerfulness
which I did not feel, and pointing to some mountains in the south-east,
I prompted them to proceed, by assuring them, that wherever mountains
appeared, water was always to be found. I was certain, moreover, by the
calculations which I had made, that we could not be more than five
miles from Oliphant River, where I felt assured that relief would be
afforded. We made indeed most wretched progress in that morning's
journey; ere three quarters of a mile had been accomplished, we were
compelled to halt, and after receiving our allowance and singing a
hymn, we proceeded on our way. Scarcely another mile had been overtaken
ere we were again forced to rest ourselves, and here I felt alarmed
lest some of the company should never be able to resume the march.
The old gentleman, who had lost his coat on the previous day, was
especially overcome; he seemed so thoroughly exhausted in spirit,
and so worn out in frame--being covered over with sores in face and
limbs--that it seemed impossible to rouse him to any further effort,
and others were inclined, with him, to resign themselves to despair. I
was greatly perplexed how to act in this extremity. I could not bear
to leave the wretched alone to die; and to detain the others on their
account, would be certain destruction to us all. In this painful crisis
I secretly sought direction from God, and had resolved to remain
with the desperate, leaving the others to press on, and send back for
us if they should find succour. This purpose I only communicated to
my brother William, and urged him to use every exertion to reach a
place of safety, and in case of my death, to be kind to my dear wife
and family. He, however, sternly refused to accede to my wishes, and
declared his resolution, if I persisted, to abide and die with me.
By his persuasion I was shaken in my purpose, and by dint of great
exertion, we managed to assist our invalids on through another stage.
On looking out for our next halting-place, I observed a rising ground
a little in advance of us, and urged our people to reach it ere they
rested. This was done, because I thought something like the entrance of
a river appeared beyond, and I was resolved to ascertain the fact by
crowning the hill. We had nearly reached the place, when the mate, who
was a little in advance, cried out, "There is the river." I ran forward
at the transporting tidings, and by advancing a few paces, a scene
of overpowering interest burst upon my view. Not only was the river
distinctly visible as it rolled its broad waters through a fertile
valley, until they mingled with ocean at our feet; but I could also
distinctly descry a settlement, with its dwelling-houses and offices,
on the opposite bank. Never did scene more sweet open upon human
vision, than met my ecstatic gaze in that landscape. I had no eye--no
heart for its natural beauties; but thoughts of life and of rescue
arose within me in that glance. It seemed to me an opening paradise:
visions of home--of happiness--rushed back upon my desolate soul. The
tide of sorrow, in a heart ready to perish, was turned within me, and
joy rose in such sudden revulsion from recent wretchedness, that I was
completely overpowered. The same excess of emotion filled every heart
that now crowded around at the tidings. We grasped each other's hands
in convulsive silence; our hearts were too full for utterance, and, for
a considerable time, tears were the only expression that came from
our overcharged bosoms. Rapture was in our glance when we saw human
beings moving about on the opposite bank, and we became rivetted in
delighted gaze upon the neat white-washed house, with its clear blue
smoke curling up into the sky, and all the accompaniments of European
comfort around it. I was the first to break the interesting silence,
by saying, "Now, my dear friends, the Lord has led us by a way that
we knew not, to a land inhabited." We then gave thanks to God, who
had done so great things for us, and we served out a little of our
remaining stock of water. As we were still a mile from the river, I
preserved a small portion, in case the river water should prove salt,
which, on reaching it, we found to be the case. We had carried our
English ensign as a signal in case of meeting any vessel, and now, by
tying two broken oars together, we elevated it to attract the notice
of the persons on the opposite bank. They evidently had descried us;
for we observed a boat push off from the shore, and advance straight
toward us across the stream. This was to us a gracious token that the
season of succour was at hand. We immediately thereupon drank off our
last remaining bottle of water, and prepared to greet our deliverers.
The moment of our rescue was especially interesting and solemn. While
the boat approached, we all joined hands and united in singing the 23d
Psalm, and, as the faint concert arose from our famished group, it
seemed, to our overflowing hearts, to ascend to heaven, alike as the
devout dirge of our departing sorrows, and the joyous anthem of our
coming deliverance.