I shall copy the account without comment; it needs none. Perpetrated
among a people who call themselves christians, and who boast of being
"the most free, the most enlightened, the most humane people on earth."
"Augusta, (Georgia,) Feb. 1, A. D. 1820.
"On Friday last, two negro men, named Ephraim and Sam, were
executed in conformity to their sentence, for the murder of their
master, Mr. Thomas Handcock, of Edgefield district, S. C.--Sam was
burnt and Ephraim hung, and his head severed from his body, and
publicly exposed. The circumstances attending the crime for which
these miserable beings have suffered, were of a nature so
aggravated, as imperiously demanded the terrible punishment which
has been inflicted upon them. [They had shot their owner while he
slept.]
{182} "The burning of malefactors is a punishment only resorted
to when absolute necessity demands a signal example. It must be a
horrid and appaling sight to see a human being consigned to the
flames--let even fancy picture the scene--the pile--the stake--the
victim, and the mind sickens and sinks under the oppression of its
own feelings,--what then must be the dreadful reality! From some
of the spectators we learn, that it was a scene which transfixed
in breathless horror almost every one who witnessed it. As the
flames approached him, the piercing shriek of the unfortunate
victim struck upon the heart with a fearful, painful
vibration,--but when the devouring element seized upon his body
all was hushed: yet the cry of agony still thrilled in the ear,
and an involuntary and sympathetic shudder ran through the crowd."
In consequence of the above, the following letter was addressed to the
editor of the newspaper.
"To Z. Poulson,
"A Philadelphian in thy paper says, the burning
of malefactors is a punishment never before resorted to in this
country,--I wish the fact were so, but in the year 1800, the
following was published, viz.
"'Charlston, December 4, 1800.
"'Yesterday was brought to trial, before Justices Johnson and
Glover, Ben and Smart, two negro slaves, the property of Mr.
Gregmiles, for the murder of Wm. Maxwell, ship carpenter.--The
Magistrates and Freeholders were unanimous in bringing them in
guilty: and further, from the circumstances of aggravation, that
the punishment should be severe. They were accordingly
sentenced--Ben to be carried between the hours of ten {183} and
twelve this day, outside the tobacco inspection, and there to
suffer death by being burned alive; the other, Smart, to be
carried to the place where the murder was committed, between the
hours of ten and four, and there to suffer the like punishment on
Friday the 5th instant.'"[63]
That such scenes have at some period disgraced the annals of most
nations it must be acknowledged; for which even a faint shadow of excuse
may be found in the madness of fanaticism: that they are now sanctioned
by cold blooded sentences from a misnamed bench of justice, proves this
new continent to be some centuries behind in civilization; a fact
corroborated by several others, amongst the most glaring of which are
the perpetuation of the institution of slavery, and the frequency and
mode of conducting duel combat.
The first of these condemning facts has just been decided, after much
and violent debate in both houses of Congress; and only by the small
majority of four, a majority which in England would not carry a
question, the New State of Missourie is admitted into union with the
_free republic_ without any restriction as to slaves! In the course of
the discussion, the State of Virginia has gone so far as to throw out
hints hostile, should the question be decided otherwise than it has: and
in this it is understood she would have {184} been supported by the
other Slave States all deeply interested in the event; as, had the
abolition party prevailed, the next measure would have been an attempt
at general emancipation, which, if carried, would have been a death blow
to the paramount influence which Virginia now possesses in the general
government, owing to her extent of territory and population, and to the
law which gives to each slave-holder, besides his own vote, one for
every five negroes he has. These causes have hitherto enabled Virginia
successively to influence the choice of a President of the United
States. Another reason given by the politicians here why the last
mentioned State with Kentucky, and some others, may be careless of
maintaining the union is, that a debt of some magnitude is due from them
to the general Government for lands unpaid for, taxes, &c., and which,
being unable or rather unwilling to pay, they would cancel by a war. The
political and civil interests of the Slave States also frequently clash
with, or are in direct opposition to those which are called Free.
Another division of this immense country contemplated as probable, is
into eastern and western Governments, the Alleghany chain of mountains
to form the mutual grand barrier; and indeed I found the subject pretty
generally discussed in {185} the western country, the inhabitants of
which seemed well disposed to the measure.
On the subject of Duel combat mentioned above I would add a few words,
partly of general application, to the sentiments of so many already
delivered. Though the angry passions of some, and the foolish conduct of
others will perhaps continue to give cause for and never entirely banish
the necessity of appeal to arms; yet will all sensible men concur in the
opinion that it ought to be the last resort of injured honour, the
ultimate remedy to repel insult. As real christians, we should refuse it
altogether; but taking the world as it is (and that is very far indeed
from true christianity), the combat ought to be regarded as a serious
appeal to heaven, alone justifiable when human laws have failed to do us
right--when, however we may as a christian forgive the offender, we yet
cannot keep our honour and overlook the offence:--in such situations,
and fortunately such are very rare, a man has no alternative--he must
trust his cause to mortal arbitrement: but to rush to the combat for any
cause short of this is not true courage, for this is alone consistent
with right conduct;--it is irreligious, for religion forbids it--it is
immoral, for it tends to banish virtue and disorganize society;--it is
barbarous, for it belongs to the wild beast of the forest; and the {186}
people who have recourse to the combat on frivolous occasions cannot
therefore be placed lower upon the scale of humanity. If then these
sentiments be correct, what are we to think of those who can invite each
other to the field upon a dispute about their tailor's bill, or the best
mode of peeling a sausage, with other equally important occasions of
meeting among these mockeries of humanity. From the contemplation of
such, let us turn to behold the more serious mockery of all that is
right, in the chief Magistrate of a nation, and a considerable part of a
nation's council, publicly parading the funeral of a favourite naval
officer, who fell--not nobly fighting his country's battles, but
pointing at a murderous distance, with vindictive malice, the weapon at
the breast of his brother officer; on account of an affair too, with
which he had no concern, and for which even his own friends condemned
his interference! He fell; and his antagonist, who appears to have
attempted all which an honourable man could do to avoid the meeting,
remains.[64]
After what has been said, it will not surprise the reader that a
store-keeper should put out a board to advertise the passenger that he
has "ten cases of Duelling Pistols on sale;" though it might to a
reflecting mind be little less hurtful to society than if he had offered
ten cases of {187} picklock keys, or some neat sets of combustibles for
firing houses or blowing up the inhabitants.
Went to visit the Dock-yard and to view a 74 upon the stocks; within the
hull of which it is said one of our 100 gun ships might be placed; and
in effect she is framed to carry as many guns at least, and those of a
large size. The plan of having all the guns of the same size appears to
be good in more respects than one; it prevents mistakes in loading
during action, as the same quantity of powder will be required for each
gun:--32 pounders are cast here I understood for the service generally.
The Americans seem alive to naval enterprise, and no doubt can be
entertained of their becoming very powerful, if they avoid internal
divisions and cordially join in effecting it. It will not be denied that
they have on several occasions at sea behaved gallantly; but the mere
trick of rating ships of war below their real force, by which they have
gained some few advantages, will no longer succeed, and was unworthy of
the adoption of a brave nation.
{188} LECTURES ON ANATOMY
The mansion which the Government caused to be erected and presented to
George Washington for his residence, and which he, always like himself,
only accepted to give it up for the public benefit, is now devoted to
the medical and anatomical sciences, and is named the University of
Pensilvania.[65] By favour of Dr. Physic I was presented with a general
ticket of admission to the anatomical course. On entering the Lecture
room, which is spacious, it was pleasing to see in attendance about
three hundred students; it was not so pleasing however, to hear the
impatient noise kept up by their heels and sticks in the manner of our
play-house galleries, because the Dr. did not make his appearance quite
so soon as expected. This is both highly indecorous and shewing a want
of proper respect for a man of years and science. Dr. P. ranks high in
reputation, and I believe deservedly: his salary for the college duties,
which occupy his time for four months of each year, is about six
thousand dollars. There are several other courses of lectures delivered
here, all of which are numerously attended: at the concluding lecture of
a course on medicine given by Dr. Coxe, the very indecorous conduct of
the students in {189} hawking, spitting, and coughing, while some few
lay across the benches asleep, led me fully to expect a severe
reprimand, as they richly deserved, at the end of the lecture; I was
then much astonished to hear a short, diffident address from the Dr.
concluding with thanking them for their attention! This they applauded
with as much sense and propriety as they had before coughed, hawked, and
spat; by the way, these beastly habits I am told carry off numbers of
young men in early consumptions.
The Dr. took occasion in speaking on the subject of fermented liquors,
to reprobate, and it may be too justly, the wine merchants and brewers
of England for the custom of mixing deleterious ingredients in their
liquors.
The practice of medicine in Philadelphia, New York, and other large
towns appears to be on a very respectable footing. Fees are high; on
which account perhaps it is that the operations of bleeding with the
lancet, cupping, &c. are still performed by barbers, and by other
ignorant people as formerly in England; in almost every street is a sign
put out[66] denoting that these {190} operations are performed within;
it may be supposed therefore that disorders of repletion are very
general. Dentists are well paid: at New York I had occasion for their
services, and a little Frenchman, who, though now in fashion as a
dentist, had, I afterwards heard, previously figured in the world as
marker at a billiard-table and in several other characters, was
recommended to me, and I sought his house: after extracting the tooth,
which he performed very well, he told me among other rhodomontade that
he only now practised "pour son amusement." I therefore doubtingly
requested to know if he took a fee upon such pleasant occasions, and
putting a note into his hand, he retained _only_ two dollars of it which
he pocketed also "pour son amusement." A lady paid to ****** twenty-five
dollars for plugging three teeth, and another was charged thirty-six
dollars for having her teeth cleaned. A midwife's common fee is
twenty-five dollars and frequently much more is given.
Empirics too here find a field whereon to gather in a harvest:
imitations of the bottles and labels of the most successful of our quack
medicines are made and openly advertised for sale to the imitators.
Holcroft[67] it is, I think, who, in his account of Paris mentions that
boards are to be seen fixed over doors with the inscription "ici on
{191} fait les avortemens." At Philadelphia one of the same infamous
race placards in large letters the corners of the principal streets with
"Obstructions removed at No. -- in ---- street."
_February_ 22d. Anniversary of the birth of George Washington. I suppose
it was that the people might be awakened early to pleasing thoughts on
this day, that a double drum accompanied by fifes went thumping through
the city at four o'clock in the morning. Soon after daylight all was
bustle and preparation. At ten A. M. we repaired to Washington Hall,
where an oration was to be delivered, in honour of the departed hero and
friend of his country, by a young student in the law, one of which
profession is annually chosen for the task; this being an opportunity of
becoming known, and a trial of ability, may be of much advantage to a
young man. A handsome spacious room surrounded with galleries was
appropriated for the ceremony; the ladies above, the male auditors
below. At the upper end was a raised platform for the Orator, the city
magistrates, a few military officers, &c.
During the arrival of the company, a band of about half a dozen wind
instruments stationed in the gallery above the platform, played some
airs, chiefly English, and pertinaciously continued their exertions
while the city militia with {192} drums, and fifes blowing a different
tune entered the room, and marching up, squatted down upon benches and
ordered their arms between their legs. The din was horrid, and the idea
of seating the military novel.
The Orator now entered and, accompanied by the public characters,
ascended the platform; seats being taken, the six wind instruments in
the gallery struck up the national air of "Yankee doodle," which
immediately set all the ladies nodding, jumping, and beating time, while
some heavy heels below tried to accord with them.--This air is surely of
all national airs the most unfortunate; to those of other nations we may
listen with delight;--the Swiss Ranz des Vaches--the Dutch "Orange
Boven"--the Marseillois' hymn of the French and our own coronation
anthem, and Rule Britannia, have all their several characteristics of
grand, plaintive, or inspiring; but Yankee doodle! What concatenation
can render it agreeable? What mental images can it conjure up worthy to
rejoice the hearts of a great nation![68]
Yankee doodle over, the Orator, a fine young man but of very inadequate
strength of voice, {193} advanced and commenced his address, in which I
was surprised to hear but little of the great character we were met to
recal to respectful memory. It was a rapid panoramic sketch of the
political situation of the several principal powers of Europe, with all
of whom he found fault; then weaving in an uncalled-for condemnation of
Napoleon (a great character, let history hereafter say what it may of
his errors,) he concluded with an unqualified approbation of the men and
measures at home; not excepting the late decision of Congress on the
Missouri question, which perpetuates slavery in the United States: in
short, he boldly affirmed that _their_ nation was alone the favoured one
under heaven where true liberty was understood and enjoyed, &c.
At the philippic against Napoleon, General H. L'A****d who sat near me,
though he does not converse in English, shewed well that he understood
it, by the indignant colour which rose to his face: the General was one
of Buonaparte's most attached officers, and being consequently
proscribed by the present French government, sought an asylum with
Marshal Grouché and many more on the shores of America. Here he now
resides truly a practical philosopher after the pomp and bustle of war
is over; after having borne a part in many campaigns; among {194} others
that of Moscow, and enduring the horrors of the retreat, eating
horse-flesh as a luxury, and subsisting for some time on sugar; and
lastly having been engaged at the final battle of Waterloo. He now lives
a quiet domestic man with his lady and infant, and employs himself in
writing upon subjects connected with his profession; upon which, as well
as upon general topics, he speaks with great ability and feeling, as one
who has thought much and deeply. It is with pleasure that I seize this
opportunity of inserting a few words of remembrance of this worthy man:
it is time that party proscriptions should cease in France, and I
heartily wish he may be reinstated in rank and fortune.
The address was of course received at its conclusion with thundering
applause; the drums, fifes, and wind instruments again joined in a Dutch
concert, and the audience dispersed. As we returned home I observed that
all the stores were kept open; no great proof of respect on such a day.
To instance further symptoms of slavery, and perhaps a little injustice,
in this free State of Pensilvania, where all men are declared equal by
the constitution, the people of colour are neither called upon to pay
the poll-tax as men, nor are they allowed a vote for representatives or
otherwise; {195} yet all taxes, the payment of which give no such
privileges, are exacted of them.
As this subject may not be again alluded to here, I insert the following
curious advertisement: it may give some insight respecting the public
mind upon more subjects than one.
"MISSOURI
"To Southern and Western Planters
"For SALE; one hundred prime Virginia-born Slaves, the property of
a Planter who is contracting the scale of his business, and does
not chuse that _all_ the produce of his land and labour should go
into the pockets of manufacturers or fundholders. These Slaves
will be sold all together or in families, to suit purchasers.
Conditions, _Cash_, and _Removal not_ South of the State of
Georgia. The condition of their removal is for their own
accommodation.
"N.B. No proposals from any Slave Trader will be attended to.
"The Proprietor of this property would prefer selling them all
together, and would give a credit to any _Planter_, on receiving
satisfactory [i.e. landed] security. No bank notes, bank stock,
six per Cent, three per Cent, or other evidence of debt, public or
private, domestic or foreign, will be received in payment; but
_coin_ or _bullion_ will be taken at their lawful value or market
price respectively.
"----British or Portuguese gold or Spanish milled dollars would be
preferred.
* * * * *
{196} "If the above-mentioned Slaves are not disposed of at private
sale before the first Monday of November next, they will be sold
at public auction on that day, at Lynchburg in Virginia.[69]
"These Slaves were bred on the estate where they are now working,
and are perfectly acquainted with the cultivation and curing of
the best Virginia Tobacco.
"Their ancestors were purchased by the ancestor of the present
proprietor out of Guineamen, and they have been in the same family
for several generations.
"The best character can be given of them: among them are the best
Blacksmiths perhaps in Virginia and several other Tradesmen,
Carpenters, &c."
* * * * *
28th. Visited the Playhouse--the piece represented was "The Battle of
Hexham;" very humbly got up but the parts respectably filled. It was a
full house, being a benefit night; we sat next to the stage-box in the
second row: the party who had obtained the front seats were a lady and
three gentlemen, two of whom kept on their horsemen's great coats and
one his hat the whole night; this custom is common here. As to the state
of the stage, it is not a subject worth entering upon; there is in fact
no American stage, the players being almost wholly English.
_March_ 3d. The meat market here is plentifully supplied with excellent
well-fed beef, good veal and mutton, though the Americans little {197}
esteem the latter. The poultry too is well-fed and fine. In order to
shew to what point of perfection feeding and grazing have reached, I
present the reader with some account of the annual Cattle shew,
prefacing it with the advertisement extracted from the Aurora Journal of
March 3d, 1820.
"SPLENDID AND EXTRAORDINARY EXHIBITION!
"The public are respectfully informed that twenty-three head of
Fat Cattle, eleven Fat Sheep, and two Fat Goats, advertised to be
exhibited at the Merchants' Coffee-House, by Messrs. White,
Shuster, Fryburg, Drum and Miller, may be seen at B. Graves's
Drove-Yard and Cattle-Market; where the public generally are
respectfully invited to view this magnificent and splendid shew of
fine cattle of American production: such we believe as has never
been exhibited for sale, in one day, in any city in the world, at
all events never surpassed!!!"
These animals, such as were "_never before exhibited in any city in the
world_," I saw; and can vouch at least for their being very fat;--the
cattle were of middling size, and frame pretty good, yet judging from
their appearance, I should not have guessed that they possessed (to use
a grazier's phrase,) "an aptitude for laying on fat." Any particular
information of the length of time they had been feeding, or of the
quantity and kinds of food, was not obtained; but I suspect that though
their heads were large they had pretty {198} well _eaten them off_, (as
prize cattle are sometimes known to do in other parts of the world,) and
that the grand principle of grazing, laying on flesh with the least
expense of food, has not here been sufficiently attended to.
When slaughtered, another exhibition was made of the carcases, and they
all proved well, not excepting those of the goats which were very
fat;[70]--the tallow in some of the beasts weighed considerably more
than two hundred lb. and the carcases from eighty to one hundred and
thirty stone of fourteen lb. The whole sold for a quarter dollar
(13-1/2d.) per lb.; but previous to the sale, it was paraded about the
city in one-horse carts, attended by butchers in neat handsome white
frocks with insignia, and a military band of music _in a cart_,--a large
model of a ship upon wheels, having a lad dressed as a sailor in it
throwing the line, bringing up the rear. I have before had occasion to
remark a want of spirit, a flatness--I know not what to call it, among
the Americans upon public parades and holidays, when other nations are
all life and noise: not a hat was thrown up upon this occasion among the
crowd, not one hurrah, not even a smile was to be seen; but all passed
by with the quiet and order of {199} business: they all seemed to be
calculating how much the meat would sell for, or taking in large
draughts of conceit upon having the honour to attend the best beef _in
the whole world_!
Of the state of Agriculture, the little I saw is not worth a comment to
the English farmer. The price of all machinery is so high that it
precludes the general use of complex implements of husbandry, and the
unexhausted fertility of much of the soil, perhaps, renders the use of
them less obvious. Clovers are grown in this State in course of
cropping, and we may suppose by the following advertisement that they
begin to know the value of manure.
"TO BE SOLD,
"This day a quantity of Street Dirt, in Lots to suit Purchasers."
Of the present low price of land an instance may be given in the late
purchase of two hundred acres, six miles from Philadelphia, part good
grazing ground, and the rest of good quality, including a good and
newly-erected brick house upon it; for the whole of which the price was
five thousand dollars (about £5. 7s. 6d. sterling per acre.) I believe
that bargains as good, or nearly so, may now be made.
9th. For two days past it has rained and froze as it fell; the trees,
the ships, buildings, {200} &c. are all incrusted with icicles: the
strongest branches of the trees are every minute giving way and falling
under their loads. A ship at one of the wharfs, being neglected came
down, broke her masts against the wharf and the hull was sunk. In the
country the scene is brilliant and beautiful beyond description: a
letter from the neighbourhood says, "the spruce, the pine, and the
cedar, are coated with transparency, their limbs bending in every
fantastic shape, whilst the rich dark green of their leaves shows to
double advantage through the brilliant covering; the twigs of the yellow
willow may be compared to amber set in crystal; the red maple, and the
large berries of the sweet-briar, seem covered with pendant diamonds;
the trees at a distance appear to be loaden with blossoms, white,
glittering, and brilliant; but no description can convey an adequate
idea of the 'fairy frost-work.'"
_April_ 2d. As memoranda relative to the climate must be particularly
interesting to those who may think of emigrating, I notice, that this
day a heavy snow is falling, wind N. N. E.,--the Thermometer at eight
o'clock A. M., exposed in shade, 37° of Fahrenheit; yesterday it was
above temperate, but the two days before at the above hour of the
morning, as low as 31° and 32°: the apricots and other trees which have
already put {201} forth blossoms, must have been injured and many of the
trees will probably be killed. In consequence of these sudden extremes
of temperature, garden cultivation is difficult and uncertain, and the
market produce much higher than in England; a dollar is frequently given
for a cauliflower, and a quarter dollar (13-1/2d.) is considered a low
price; for a common cabbage I was asked nine cents (about 5d.,) and most
other vegetables bear a proportionate price.
Called yesterday upon Mr. H*****: the conversation turned upon the right
of primogeniture, a right which (scarcely deserving to be so called) is
not recognised here. It is true that a man is permitted to exercise it
in his testamentary dispositions, but it is scarcely ever acted upon. I
observed, that though the descent of estates to the eldest son was
strictly agreeable to the spirit of our government, yet many with us
wished its abolition were practicable, and were of opinion that this
would be a great point gained to the cause of rational liberty;
regarding it as strictly an act of justice, that a father should divide
his property evenly among children who all claimed an equal share in his
affection. In answer, he acknowledged, that his mind too was so strongly
impressed with the equal claim of children to a parent's support, that
he believed he might in his {202} own case act upon it: yet, he added,
that should he do so it would be entirely unaccordant with his actual
observation of its effects; for, out of very many instances which had
come under his observation, he had hardly known any which had succeeded;
the children had received their equal portions, but not the experience
necessary to proper management and economy, and consequently nine times
in ten they bought experience with every dollar, and in the end became
either idle, dissipated, good-for-nothing characters, or had at least to
begin the world again with nothing.--I asked how the children, in the
instances which he called to mind, had been brought up, and if they had
been placed out properly at first; for if so, it seems to be a manifest
advantage that a young man should possess a sum of money for immediate
support and with which to start in life. He said, that in many cases the
parents had given excellent educations, but he acknowledged that they
had died before the children had been well introduced into life. "Were
it otherwise," he observed, "were the parent to live long enough to
induce habits of industry and economy, and to see his children well
settled in their respective professions or trades, there can be no
objection to their being equally portioned; else, an elder brother,
especially if he conducts himself worthily, {203} forms a sort of
support to the rest of the family, a point d'appui, which preserves a
share of respectability to them that in America they experience the want
of; he keeps together that property which would otherwise probably be
squandered, that respectability which would otherwise be lost."
3d. Mr. K*** having some business to transact at Washington, the
metropolis of the United States, I took the opportunity and agreed to
accompany him. We left Philadelphia at mid-day, in the steam boat bound
for the small town of Newcastle, on the Delaware, distant about forty
miles; price of passage one dollar and a half: there were twenty-four
passengers on board; a fine day over head, but snow lay upon the ground
and the air piercingly cold. Arrived at Newcastle a little before five
P. M., where stages numbered 1, 2, 3, &c. were waiting to take
passengers eighteen miles over the neck of land which here divides the
Delaware from the Chesapeake Bay: previous to landing we had each a
ticket, numbered, given to us, which each one took to the stage of
corresponding number by which he was to go, and this plan prevented all
disputes and confusion.
Having all taken our seats in these vehicles, which are a sort of
covered waggon having {204} benches placed in rows across, and the
luggage being adjusted, they started in cavalcade, and in little more
than two hours and a half arrived upon the shore of Chesapeake Bay. It
was now dark, but everything was quickly removed into another steam
boat, much larger than the first, and without any loss of time its
wheels were set in motion and we proceeded for Baltimore at the rate of
about ten miles an hour, bringing-to at the wharf there about three
o'clock next morning. The steam boats here have been already frequently
described, I shall only observe therefore that they are of great length,
capacious, and as comfortable as carpets, stoves, good beds, and good
meals can make them: this had three cabins, two aft and one before,
containing altogether fifty-eight births. There are a set of regulations
hung up which are strictly observed; one is that no smoking is allowed
except upon deck; another, that no portmanteau or trunk be admitted into
the cabin: travellers will do well therefore to take a sacde-nuit with
them for the few things they may want at night; let them not forget too,
to bring some book to their taste in case of a want of conversation, for
Americans are in general rather reserved. The conversation here was
chiefly upon the recent fatal duel between Commodores Decatur and
Barron; it seemed to be {205} the general opinion that the latter could
not with honour have avoided the meeting: one gentleman observed that
the right man had fallen, both on account of his conduct towards Barron,
and also for his quarrelsome disposition and general seeking such
combats; he had, he said, previously killed three antagonists, of whom
two were English.
These American stages or caravans carry all the passengers withinside,
an arrangement which renders travelling with servants expensive: we were
eleven young and old, closely packed, and jumbled away at the rate of
seven or eight miles an hour, without interest; for we could only catch
a glimpse of the country now and then by lifting up the side leather.
Soon after noon we came in sight of the Capitol, and were set down at a
large Tavern near to it.
The dirt, ill-arrangement and absence of common comforts in an American
tavern or hotel have already been expatiated upon amply; but to meet
with such things under the walls of the Capitol, at the very seat of
government, I was not prepared. On entering the Hotel, a poor lad, whose
dishabille of dirt and rags defies description, came with a brush, which
he was making less fit for use by rubbing its bristles upon his dirtier
hand, to ask if he should brush our coats. We enquired {206} for a room
up stairs to shave, &c., and though past one o'clock not a bed had been
made, or a breath of acceptable fresh air permitted to blow into these
chambers of contamination!-Having finished the toilette as well as we
were able, our first visit was to the Capitol.
It stands finely upon the edge of a high commanding ridge, from whence
with one sweeping glance one views the subjacent ground down to the
Potomac river, and the elevated country beyond; to the right is seen
George Town and the most populous part of Washington, the President's
House, the Post-Office, &c. but alas! excepting these and a few other
mostly dispersed buildings, the horse, the cow, and the swine, still
graze quietly around the Capitol of Washington. Viewing however the
beautiful site of this city with the eye of its venerable founder, and
with him letting imagination cover it with houses and "the busy hum of
men," if we then look round for the attractions of support for this
multitude, the illusion vanishes. Commerce cannot but with difficulty
flourish upon the shallow bed of the river, and agriculture may long
strive for success in vain, with the surrounding sterility. Wherein then
must the motive of the statesman be sought for founding a city in a
place favourable alone to the eye? Could he make a mistake? {207} That
is not probable. Could it be to favour his native State, or to gratify a
whim? This is not consonant to the character of his great mind. A despot
of Russia might build a city upon piles vainly to shew posterity his
power: Frederick of Prussia might have his Potsdam; but Washington ever
kept utility in view, and never aimed to gratify a vain wish at the
expense of his fellow creatures. It is then suggested, that, impressed
with the importance of quiet deliberation, he fixed the seat of
government upon a spot so unattractive to the multitude that their
representatives might be unbiassed by faction.
Of the Capitol the centre is yet to rear its head, the wings alone are
finished; these contain the Hall of Representatives and that of the
Senate--a Library[71]--a Post-Office for the Members--Committee Rooms,
&c.
The Hall of Representatives is of semicircular form; a beautiful
colonnade of native with capitals of Italian marble, ranges along within
the semicircle and its base, with rich crimson and fringed curtain
drapery between the columns. The President's _throne_ is placed on the
centre of the base and fronting the semicircle, the seats and desks
{208} for the Members ranged so as to radiate from it; the whole area is
covered with a rich and rather gaudy carpet.
The Hall of the Senate is as studiously plain as that of the
Representatives is gaudy; in the same form, but upon a much smaller
scale, and the gallery is only upon the base of the semicircle, so that
a spectator here fronts the Members;--the style of decoration throughout
is far preferable to the other.
Of the debates on the tapis I can say but little, not having had time
sufficient to give them much attention,--they were apparently carried on
however with more decorum than from report I had reason to expect,
except that the exercise of spitting upon the beautiful carpet was
continued as everywhere else; the walls of the stairs and the stairs
themselves also were covered with the saliva of tobacco chewers.
It being an expected compliment from strangers coming to the Seat of
Government to pay their respects to its head, we drove down to the
President's house, at the hour appointed; it is a handsome stone
building, which has now been restored and repaired since the shock given
to it by the English; but the gardens and pleasure grounds, reaching
down to the banks of the Potomac, and extending again up to the Capitol,
are as yet only {209} to be seen upon paper; rude nature still rules
absolute over the tract. Remains of the late snow yet lay in the shade,
and negligence, studied or accidental, had left it upon the flight of
steps to the President's house, an old plank being laid upon the landing
that visitors might get dry to the door. A servant, not a _man of
show_, admitted us into a plain hall, and ushered us up stairs to the
private apartment in which we found Mr. Munroe seated alone at his
bureau with various papers before him; he arose at our entrance, and
himself placed chairs for us, which his _independent_ servant had left
the room without doing. Mr. Munroe appeared a plain quiet man in dress
and manners, the English country gentleman with a physiognomy which bore
marks of deep reflection: a conversation of ten minutes on indifferent
subjects terminated our visit, when, instead of formal etiquette he gave
me a friendly shake of the hand with a "God bless you," spoken in a
pleasing tone, which left upon me a very favourable impression.
The other objects of our curiosity were, the Naval Dock-yard, George
Town, the Patent Office; at this last, we were much amused by the
various models, amongst which, though I shall not attempt minutely to
describe them, may be enumerated a car propelled with the hands by a
{210} easy and very simple contrivance, a model of machinery applicable
to propelling boats instead of the steam engine, several models of
bridges, a cotton-carder, a plough having its beam turn upon a centre to
save the trouble of swinging it round at the land ends; these were among
the inventions most attracting our attention, and I now mention them as
a remembrancer to good machinists who may have an opportunity of viewing
them. George Town is an extensive place and pretty thickly settled; and
it much resembles our more populous villages adjoining to London; the
road is excellent between it and the Capitol, and to the foot of the
hill is lined with houses many of which are good, substantial, handsome
buildings.
In the Naval Dock there was little to review worth mention to an
English reader; we saw a clumsy monument, erected we were told to
commemorate the burning of a frigate at Tripoli by Commodore Decatur. On
the stocks was a frigate as they denominated it, but which appeared to
be of a size equal to our second rate; and at the forge an anchor was
forming of 10,000lb. weight. These were the chief objects which
attracted attention. On account of the recent loss of Decatur it was the
fashion to be very dull, and no _drawing-room_ has been held since his
death: we passed the evening with Mr. ****, a Member {211} of Congress,
who had obligingly shewn us whatever was thought worth viewing, and some
amusement was afforded at a lecture upon the laughing gas, in seeing its
ludicrous effects upon several individuals of the company who inhaled
it.
The following morning, my compagnon-de-voyage having finished his
business, we quitted Virginia, and in twenty-eight hours were landed
again at the Fish-market wharf in Philadelphia.
Fish is well supplied here in quantity but not in variety: it has
hitherto chiefly consisted of a coarse kind called _Sea Bass_, but now
the Shad fishery is just commencing; these fish come up the large rivers
in shoals, and are caught in hundreds at each haul with the seine; they
are a very oily fish and weigh from two or three to ten pounds and
perhaps more; being a plentiful season they are just now bought of the
fishermen at the price of five dollars a hundred, and have been lately
as low as three dollars. In the season of 1818, they sold at sixteen and
seventeen dollars a hundred. Many parties are formed during the season
to see them caught and to partake of them fresh from the water; one of
these being made we took a boat, which carried us under a pleasant
breeze down the river to a place called Gloucester Point, here the
shore suiting we saw several seines hauling, and upon the beach caravans
{212} waiting to convey the fish, as quick as caught up the country,
where they are cut open, cleaned, salted down, and many of them smoked,
contributing very largely to the winter food of the Americans. The
Herring season comes on here immediately after that of the Shad, but it
is not near so much reckoned upon.
Out of the produce of one of the hauls two fish, of about seven or eight
pounds each, were taken, and quickly brought to table in excellent
order;--the mode of dressing is to open the fish, nail it to a board and
place it before a fire; it is thus _toasted_, and being brought in upon
the board quite hot proves very good eating. In the room where we dined
were hung up a printed set of rules of a fox-hunting club; but how the
chase can be followed on horseback through a country so uncleared and
undrained, it is to me a mystery--must too often prove like that of
Caliban and his companions following the music of the invisible Ariel,
"through toothed briars, sharp furzes, pricking gorse and thorns," and
ending "i' the filthy mantled pool;" dry clothes and a cigar the best
enjoyment of the day. By the way we had a specimen here of the early
initiation into the habit of smoking; a fine child of only about three
years old was very coolly walking about and puffing a cigar, while he
looked on at our pastime {213} at shuffleboard, an obsolete English
game, it is said, though new to our party. The day had been delightfully
fine; but, tempted by the game, we lingered too long at the amusement,
and on the return encountered one of those violent squalls of wind and
rain which are so common here in spring; it suddenly blew tremendously,
and our little sail was with difficulty taken in--the party luckily all
sat steady, or we might not have escaped with the inconvenience alone of
a thorough wetting and spoiled finery.
9th. Incendiaries have lately been dreadfully alert--the whole city is
under nightly apprehension of fire, and hardly a day passes without
alarm, the roll of fire engines with the dismal horns of the attendants
are constantly sounding in our ears: threatening letters have been
received, and many buildings actually burnt down. The Theatre was
consumed late on Sunday evening in a short space of time, fire having
been laid in several places; snow, which lay in the streets, by adding
to the reflection of light increased the tremendous effect. The cause of
these crimes is sought for by some people in religious bigotry; others
look with suspicion on the black population; and some, not without
grounds, have attributed these diabolical deeds to some unprincipled
white people of even respectable connections. To save themselves {214}
from these unknown desperadoes the inhabitants of each district or
parish, have formed themselves into patroles, relieving each other
nightly; the watch is doubled and every precaution taken.
18th. The cry of "fire," which begun here, spreads;--Baltimore and New
York are suffering from incendiaries, who are now supposed to be
mechanics, many of whom are out of work and most working for low wages.
This general state of alarm and real insecurity naturally increases the
anxious wish once again to breathe English air. The sails are unfurling
for departure, and I should quit a country without regret where hope
supported by theory has met with disappointment, were it not that,
during my residence, I have found a few individuals whose worth entitles
them to a lingering, painful farewell. Such characters support a state
amidst the vice and folly of the million. They fill with respectability
any station, for their hearts are good; and of such were America
composed there would be little to say against her sons. As, however,
this is not the unalloyed lot of any the most perfect assemblage of
mankind, the United States may be supposed to stand upon at least
equally fair ground with others; that she may do so in time I cannot
deny,--that she does so at present is not my opinion: and truth compels
the avowal, that {215} actual observation of the effects of republican
Government, as mankind are at present constituted, are not favourable to
the improvement of their nature, or the cultivation of those high
qualities which we may all admire but cannot all possess. Nor is it
necessary that we should: they can alone be brought to perfection by
attentive education; which subsequent reading, observation, leisure, and
deep reflection may refine into the legislator, the philosopher, the
statesman and all of that rank in society so essential to good
government, united with general polish of manners. Now this portion of a
community needs evidently to consist of but few, which are sufficient
for the important parts they take; while the rest are immersed in the
equally necessary affairs of trade, traffic, handicraft, &c., falling
into the ranks suitable to their capacities; but that this latter class,
even if they could conveniently forego their daily speculations and
cares, can be expected to act with proper dignity, penetration,
propriety and tact in the character of legislators and other high
offices of common weal, is an expectation too absurd to need an
argument. Do I then prefer the Government of my own country? I do prefer
it; even with all its many faults to the present mob influence of the
United States: and America must so far get rid of it as to let talents
rise into respect, {216} and form a rank in society which she now
abhors,--she must too, gain more efficiency to the executive part of her
Government or..........................................................
I should expect as soon that the good citizens of London, who are
certainly a very worthy body of men in their proper stations, should
become superior to the court in high knowledge and refinement of
manners, as that America can ever be well-conducted under a Government
composed of men who are otherwise engaged in mercenary speculations of
trade and commerce; these may sharpen the wits but will never elevate
the understanding.
_May_ 10th. At sea. The farewell is over; the tear has fallen; and the
hearty gripe of the hand between those who "may ne'er meet again" may
not be forgotten. The anchor weighed, no longer impeding the ship's
course; the last friendly wave of the handkerchief (meaning more then
than is afterwards remembered) has been answered; and we now pledge a
health "to those far away" with feelings of regret, not unmixed with
those of anticipated pleasure at the prospect of again beholding our
native shore.
The progress down Delaware Bay was rough and tedious; easterly winds (an
uncommon occurrence,) blowing steadily against us, and the tides alone
favouring; we have been from the 2d {217} of the month working out. Off
Lewistown we lay two days at anchor; pilot boats came off to the ship,
and weather being fine, and some few additional stores being wanting, a
party was made to go on shore; an excursion which had nearly ended
disastrously. Those who have been at sea are well enough acquainted with
the difficulties of getting down and up a ship's side, into one boat,
and then from that into another, landing upon a surfy beach, &c. After
experiencing all this we got on shore pretty well, and proceeding for
the town were agreeably surprised to find a neat village, though
apparently it has seen better days: the soil a dry sandy gravel, and the
country around a good black loam and clay. Almost for the first time we
saw in America pretty neat gardens well stocked with flowers, in which,
and in the neatness of their houses, the owners seemed to enjoy much
satisfaction. It might partly be the effect of land after five days
tossing upon the water that we fancied this place so pleasant, and that
we thought, if retirement were the object, a man might well seek it
here: several of the inhabitants very civilly invited the party into
their houses and gardens, and a rich bouquet of flowers was presented to
us by a very handsome interesting girl the daughter of one of the
proprietors;--may her beauty last long, and herself meet not {218} the
fate of the flowers she gave;--they were lost and scattered to the winds
on our passage to the ship, during which we had sufficient employment to
take care of ourselves alone.
The female portion of American society has occupied so little of our
attention, that I fear the omission will be considered by the ladies
here as the most material and least excusable fault; for, as a drama
without female beauty and devotion to it, is hard to manage with
interest, so a traveller's journal which shall contain no pleasing
observations upon the lovely half of our species must expect their
unqualified disapprobation. Yet would I deprecate their anger, and place
my defence best perhaps upon the cause for my silence--where it is our
anxious wish to admire, it grieves us to find fault; especially if we
cannot qualify our observations with some praise.--Yet, having entered
upon the subject, truth urges on the pen to record my impressions,
however unfavourable they may prove. As, in the general character of
the men so little can be found to tally with the best drawn models of a
noble republican, so has the education of the women been totally
mistaken. Light and darkness are not more opposite than the Roman matron
and this modern female republican, who is equally destitute of the
sedate, retired manners so attaching {219} in my own countrywomen, as of
the lively wit and fascinating manners of the French females; though,
covered with the finery of the latter, the poor things are taught to
believe they must be as engaging; possessing forms, too, not at all or
the least possible en bon point. Brought up entirely ignorant of every
real domestic duty, the method taken to remedy this error, previous to
their marriage and consequent entering upon those duties, is truly
laughable--they are sent to some cook and confectioner as pupils to
learn economy and make pastry! and after a practice in tarts,
cheese-cakes, bon bons, &c. for a few weeks, are declared fit to
undertake the important concerns of a wife and mother! Receiving from
nature but little apparent warmth of constitution, they neither excite
interest by intrigue, nor respect by the domestic virtues, and become
completely insipid beings;--is it then surprising that with minds so
prepared for frivolity, they should be bent alone upon extravagant and
childish decoration of their persons, which, together with their total
ignorance of domestic economy, is for ever bringing their husbands to
bankruptcy?
It will of course be understood that the above observations relate
chiefly to the inhabitants of the Eastern parts; and that there are
exceptions to be made within the range of this immense territory. {220}
The lovely brunette, the immediate cause of these reflections, is an
instance; and for a general one, as to form and features, may be
mentioned the women of Kentucky.--But it is time that we return to our
boat. On regaining the beach we found it laying _high and dry_, the boys
left in charge of her crying with vexation and fear of the Captain's
displeasure at their not being able to keep her in the water. An awful
black cloud brought on by a violent squall just at this instant began to
pour down a deluge of rain, in the midst of which we were all exerting
ourselves, some in the water and some out, to launch the boat; which
having with great difficulty accomplished, to jump into her and
immediately pull the oars and keep her head against the sea was next
with great efforts effected; and in this had we not succeeded, she would
inevitably have filled instantly. We now got through the breakers, and
drenched with rain and sea pulled away for the pilot boat, into the
small cabin of which we dived, and felt comparatively safe from the
squall which increased accompanied with thunder and very vivid
lightning. Near an hour and a half now passed in working up to the ship
though the distance did not appear great; and then the pilot would not
be persuaded to lay us alongside for fear of the consequences to his
boat in coming in contact with the ship on the {221} rough sea; so that
we were compelled to get out and brave the elements again in the small
boat, a thing not easily managed, having a lady of the party; the boat
was deep in the water, the sea ran high, and the Captain allowed, after
we were happily received on board just as the darkness of night
prevailed, that the chances had been against it. Here again we proved
that "delays are dangerous," the unnecessary one of an hour occasioned
all our troubles, and might have sent us to the bottom; not to expatiate
upon the loss of a large heap of purchased oysters which, having enough
to do to save ourselves, were left upon the beach for the finder. Upon
the whole, however, we had reason to be pleased with this little trip
and farewell to the shore; it had effected a softening of unfavourable
impressions; we had unexpectedly met with youth and beauty, native
feeling and taste, neatness and comfort, and we departed in charity.
A dismal midnight leave of Columbia's shores followed. After riding out
another day of "hard hearted winds," attended by thunder and lightning,
the anchor was once more weighed, and as night approached, we succeeded
in gaining the mouth of the Bay with a sufficient "slant of wind" to get
out. The darkness now became extreme; and about eleven o'clock the pilot
quitted the ship {222} and went on board his attending boat, leaving his
best instructions in what manner to steer; yet a little apprehensive on
account of the rocks called "Hen and chickens," and some other shoals
which were yet to be passed. Two other vessels, the sounds from which
could now and then be heard, were working out at the same time; their
pilots having also left them, their lanthern lights, which had been
watched with some comfort, were extinguished as well as our own; and we
turned in to behold land no more until we might hail the white cliffs of
Albion.
10th. Our good ship, the Factor, has now fairly taken her departure, and
is "walking away" with a tolerably fair breeze. A fine sky smiles
overhead, and the two ships and several more are in view; one of our
consorts has borne down and spoke, she is bound for the East Indies and
heavily laden. Some immense flocks of small birds are seen attending
upon shoals of mackarel, urging on their way to meet destruction upon
the coasts of America.--But it is not my intention to detail at length
the events of the passage:--we experienced, as many have done before,
black heavy clouds rising in successive squalls; the ominous porpoise in
shoals leaped forward above the wave, and darting in again shot swiftly
along seeming to contend with the ship in velocity. The fog {223} bank
at early morn sometimes displayed its illusive scenery of land, trees,
lakes, and mountains; pleasing as the visions of young Hope, and as
unsubstantial. Occasionally we watched--
"The course of the far distant sail
'Till shapeless and lost to the view"
pressing onward over this world of waters to gain the hoped-for port;
and if by chance a vessel passed near enough to speak, it was an event
highly interesting to all.
The first two weeks were rendered tedious by contrary winds and calms,
but during the rest of the passage the breezes seemed to blow on purpose
to forward us; and at length, on the 1st June, we beheld the high land
of Erin bearing exactly as our Captain[72] had calculated; indeed it is
but justice to him to say that his lunar and other observations were
throughout correct. He is a brave and worthy man from whom we
experienced every polite attention to comfort during the passage. We now
bore up the channel with a strong but favourable breeze, and passing
Holyhead took in a pilot, and the following morning the Factor was
brought safely into dock at Liverpool (in a hard gale however,) in
twenty-four days from leaving Delaware Bay.
{224} Having arrived in terrâ cognitâ again, I think it the proper place
to take leave of the reader. Should Fortune, unpropitious at home--the
spirit of enterprise--or any other motive, ever induce him to seek the
shores of Columbia, he has my best wishes for success, if he shall
deserve them; and should any of the hints here given prove conducive to
it, my end is answered. And let Americans cease to show anger at the
observations of those travellers who have visited their country: though
unfavourable the reports we give, they are the best proofs of the
friendly interest we take in their welfare, and of the hopes we
entertain of what they may in time become. Their soreness upon the
mention of their faults is truly unreasonable, for they are such as they
may amend. The man who should laugh at a blind eye or a wooden leg would
be silly and illiberal; but if satire is levelled at curable failings
the wise will take it in good part.