A handsome town, of which the chief part is in one street. Here are two
good hotels at one {78} of which (Allen's, a good family house,) we met
with every attention on our return; but now, a cleaner looking house
farther on inviting us, and being repelled by a crowd of travellers of
all descriptions and variety of dress, smoking and lounging at the doors
of the other two, we drove past; forgetting "farther on you may fare
worse," which we certainly did.[35]
On settling an innkeeper's account I said that if we might judge by the
charges, a man must soon become rich in his business; which he
acknowledged would be the case were it not for bad notes and bilking
customers, anecdotes of whom he told several: one young man after
running a bill of three hundred dollars rode out one morning, as
accustomed, to take the air and _forgot to return_; others have watched
the departure of the steam vessels and set off to New Orleans, having
_reckoned without their host_, so that the losses are immense. These
hints and others, I did not unfortunately hear until on my return, or I
should not probably have been induced to trust to American honour in way
of business so much as I did to my cost.
At all these houses a regular clerk and bar-keeper {79} is maintained
with whom the traveller _goes_ to settle, for a bill is never brought as
in England; no ringing of the bell here and, when the waiter comes
bowing in, "Desire my bill immediately"--no; that would not suit with
independence.
The bed of the river is here of vast breadth, and during the spring must
afford a grand view when the waters are struggling with and rushing over
the extensive rocky falls; at present a very small channel is sufficient
for its reduced stream; people are employed on the dry bed in deepening
the intended course for the boats, arks, &c. when the waters shall next
rise to afford them a passage. Travellers of curiosity can now traverse
on wheels, with a guide, the greatest part of the rocks over which in a
few months a mighty body of waters will roll with tremendous force.