Leaving Hoboken on the Delaware, we proceed along a good road with some
romantic scenery of rock, wood, and water, through the town of Hackensac
to the village of Paterson; where we found a good tavern and an
attentive Landlord, a very remarkable character in the United States:
after dining at the table d'hote, which was very well provided, we set
out to walk to the falls, a mile distant, under a burning sun, which
made it appear at least two. The beautiful clear stream of the gentle
Passaic here suddenly rushes down two perpendicular fissures in the
granite rock; making a grand fall at each, of about one hundred feet,
into a capacious basin beneath; from thence recovering, it murmurs along
a stony bed a mile or two, when resuming {24} a placid course it winds
through a country thickly settled, the inhabitants chiefly Dutch and
Germans; and gliding by the towns of Belville and Newark finally mingles
its waters with the Delaware. The views near Belville, and on the road
to it on the banks of the Passaic, are very fine: but the whole way the
black population were so numerous as to be quite oppressive to the eye
unaccustomed to it; every house we passed presented a group of black
heads huddled together glaring at us:--But the beautiful Passaic has
floated us away from its falls too soon; we must just return thither to
say that we ascended by steps made for the purpose to the top of the
rocks, from whence the river is precipitated. Here are some wide yawning
clefts of great depth, and one of them occasioned a dreadful catastrophe
not long before our coming: a new-married couple accompanied a party to
the falls, and after admiring the tremendous broken and precipitous
rocks and chasms, were returning in order to descend; when the bride ran
back, as she said, to take a last view, and heedlessly going too near to
the edge of the yawning cleft fell into it in sight of her husband, who
in vain rushed to save her--she was seen no more!
On returning to the tavern at Paterson, I asked the little shabby
bare-footed boy, our guide, {25} whether he worked at a wool manufactory
we were passing, "No," said he, rather bluntly; "I go to school; my
father's a 'squire:" thinking I did not hear correctly, I repeated the
question and received the same answer. "And pray what is a 'squire, what
does he do?" "Oh, he attends sessions, trials, and hears causes." "And
what may your father do at other times?" "He _assists_ Mr. ******* at
the tavern there, in the bar!"
We returned to Hoboken by the town of Belville; day departed long before
we got back, and night came on, its darkness beautifully relieved by the
novel effect of the fire-fly, myriads of which were darting in perpetual
motion; and in all directions filling the air and the surface of the low
grounds with brilliant illumination.
We met on the road many small light waggons drawn by two horses
harnessed to a pole, which are here by the country people used
generally: in these the farmer and his family travel at a brisk pace and
very commodiously;--at a distance I at first fancied a handsome Phaeton
approaching, as they drove towards us; indeed, away from the city every
one seems comfortable and independent; we see no misery, no disgusting
army of paupers, not even a beggar to be seen:[7] we have, however, {26}
already discovered that this country is not entitled to a character for
cheap living; for many articles, particularly those of luxury, you pay
at least as much as in England, the difference consisting in this, (a
very material one to the seller,) that here, the whole price of the
commodity goes into the pocket; there, a heavy tax is paid in some shape
or other out of every article sold: for example, the hire of a gig and
horse for the day is here thirteen shillings and sixpence sterling; the
owner puts the whole of this into his pocket, for there is no duty to
government; whereas in England we all know too well that there is an
enormous one, besides an assessed tax for both carriage and horse. Wine
here, though of course to be bought much cheaper by the private
consumer, is charged at least a dollar and a half per bottle at a public
boarding-house, though the duty on importation is trifling; in England
the price is the same, notwithstanding the high duties. As another
instance, washing is done here from three shillings and sixpence to four
shillings and sixpence sterling per dozen, of everything
indiscriminately; though soap is not half the price it is in England,
where the same quantity may be washed for two shillings.
From the above examples, and many more I could mention, it would appear
that the man who should emigrate to this country to _spend_ an income,
{27} might not gain by the change; it is equally evident that the
individual who goes to _make money_ may be benefited.
4th. Sunday here presents a most pleasing contemplation; the people
before united in trade and political government, are now seen shedding
out quietly and in utmost harmony, repairing to the places of worship of
their several persuasions: the English protestant establishment seems to
be well attended; the service with a few alterations, and the (perhaps)
well-judged omission of our frequent repetitions, was very impressively
read to an attentive congregation. The places for worship are generally
strongly and, though plainly, handsomely constructed; yet not perhaps,
strictly according with the best rules of architecture.
We cannot but observe a very striking flatness or insipidity of
character pervading the population, which is not perhaps to be
attributed to bad times, but to various other causes: I am apt to
believe that a large portion bear expatriation with a sort of melancholy
feeling--America is not yet their home,--they talk little of it, but
much of Europe.
The United States is a theatre on which are met all nations of Europe,
each at present attached to the customs they have left there, and
agreeing {28} only in the support of religious and political liberty:
time alone can wear down their heterogeneous habits into a national
character, which many other causes, besides those now enumerated, may at
present unite to oppose: the effect is an evident want of energy, of
heart and soul in every thing animating to other nations. I am just
returned from witnessing the celebration of the anniversary of their
Liberty,--such a festival might well be expected to call forth every
spark of enthusiasm; but, even then, not an eye either of spectators or
actors glistened with joy or animation, the latter seemed walking to a
funeral; the others contemplating the melancholy ceremony! Nothing could
dispel the illusion but the gay clothes of the female spectators, to
which their countenances in general bore a strong contrast.
Notwithstanding these unfavourable impressions however, one could not
but at intervals feel gratified;--it was the assembly of a people to
commemorate the epoch of their liberty, and _we wished_ to discover an
elevation of character deserving of the blessing, and to hail them as
brothers.
_July 6th._ Took leave of New York, of which city, perhaps I may have
said more than necessary, so much having been published before. By steam
boat and land carriage we were conveyed {29} to Bordentown, a beautiful
elevated situation, commanding most extensive views, where Joseph
Buonaparte at present resides.[8] He lives quietly and hospitably, and,
by accommodating himself to the people, exists amongst them
undisturbed:--on his arrival he received a mark of attention as uncommon
as it was unexpected; a mob at Philadelphia collected to see and welcome
him; a compliment he mistook, for not aware of their intention, and
supposing it might be to seize and deliver him up, he was with
difficulty at length prevailed upon to shew himself and receive their
friendly greetings. He is fond of shooting and finds plenty of sport: in
the widely spread low grounds covered with brush wood, the Wood-cock and
Snipe abound; and the Partridge or Quail is plentiful in the high
country. At a little distance from Bordentown, on the edge of a
precipitous cliff, and surrounded by wood, forming a pleasing retreat,
stands his house.[9]
7th. Much pleased with the scenery during the passage down the Delaware;
on its beautiful Pensilvania side many of the houses appeared to be
placed in delightful situations: as we floated {30} along the Sturgeon
was seen frequently darting upwards at the insects on the surface; he is
a fish but little valued here, either because his flavour is not so good
as it is with us, or perhaps a _royal_ fish suits not republican
palates. The spot where Penn first landed in search of a site for his
intended city was pointed out as we passed; and soon after came in view
PHILADELPHIA, presenting by no means so favourable a coup d'oeil as
New York had done.