The Otta half-chief[132] and his squaw have taken tea with and

frequently visited us. She was a very good natured, mild woman, and he

shewed great readiness in acquiring our language, being inquisitive,

retaining any thing that he was once informed, and imitating admirably

the tones of every word. He spent the evening with us before they

finally left the city. I took himself and squaw into Dr. Barber's room,

and opened gently the skeleton case. He looked slyly in, and the wife

wanted to look, but he put himself in an attitude to represent a dead

person, and said, "_no good, no good_." She still wanted to see, but he

would {382} not let her. Three others came afterwards wanting to see it,

who, when I opened it, raised themselves up in a dignified manner and

said, "_very good_," one of them taking hold of the hand said, "how you

do."[133] The Otta half-chief and squaw afterwards saw it together and

were very well pleased. Our children were all full of play with them,

and the squaw nursed the younger ones. Margaret wanted to go with them.

The calumet[134] of peace (the tomahawk pipe and their own sumach

tobacco) frequently went round, and they expressed a wish to see us

again.

I have recorded much of the vocabulary of these Indians, and would

transcribe it, but have not room. They count by tens as we do, for

instance, _noah_, two; _taurny_, three; _crabraugh_, ten; _crabraugh

noah_, twenty; _crabraugh taurny_, thirty, &c. They hold polygamy as

honourable; one wife, _no good_; three, _good_; four, _very good_. In

their talks with the residents they shew no wish to adopt our habits.

_5th._--To dine with Dr. Dawes at his poor, worn out farm, of which he

is already tired. The Doctor seems one of the best Englishmen I have met

in America.

_Sunday, 6th._--Dr. Rice[135] preaching this day in Congress-hall before

the senate, and representatives, {383} called the assembly, polite,

just, respected, respectable, and deemed it unnecessary to mention sin

and human depravity.

American husbands abound in outward politeness and respect to their

wives; and gentlemen, in general, are excessively attentive to the fair

sex, rising and leaving their seats, even at church, to accommodate the

late coming ladies. I gave much offence, on a recent occasion, by my

want of gallantry in this particular. The meanest white woman is here

addressed by the title of _Madam_.

It may also be mentioned, as a proof of superior civilization and

refinement in manners, that a stranger cannot, in this country, enter

and join a party or social circle, without being publicly presented by

name, and exchanging names and hearty shakes of the hand with all

present. Should he, however, happen to enter and take his seat without

submitting to this indispensable ceremony, he must remain dumb and

unnoticed, as an intruder, or as a person whose character renders him

unfit for introduction, and for the acquaintance of any. But, on the

other hand, when properly presented, he is instantly at home; and ever

after, at any distance of time and place, acknowledged as entitled to

the goodwill and friendship of all who thus met him. Friendships are

thus formed and propagated, and the boundaries of society in the new

world extended. It would hence be impracticable for me to be half an

hour, as has happened to me in England, {384} unknowingly present with a

person of distinction; and many unpleasant mistakes and

misunderstandings are thus obviated.

_8th._--I heard Mr. Speaker Clay deliver a splendid speech of four hours

long on the Missouri slave-question. His voice fills the house; his

action is good and generally graceful.

I met this evening Mr. Smith, a young gentleman from Lincolnshire, the

fellow-traveller of Mr. Parr, who walked through the west, and admired

all! He is not determined on continuing here; he has a good farm in

England. He and Mr. Parr have been introduced by a member of Congress to

the President, who sat half an hour familiarly talking with them, in a

plain, domestic, business-like manner.

_Sunday, 13th._--From the Speaker's chair in Congress-hall, I heard the

young, learned, and reverend professor Everett, of Cambridge University,

(aged 29) preach most eloquently to the President and legislature of

this great empire.[136] His voice, bewitchingly melodious, yet manly,

filled the house, and made every word tell, and every ear hear. "_Time

is short_," was the subject. His discourse was full of high praise of

this land, it being, he said, (in my own language) "the only resting

place for liberty, who, when driven hence, must ascend in her pure,

white robes to heaven. No more new continents will be discovered for

her reception, and therefore let this nation wisely {385} keep her

asylum here." He then spoke very warmly against kings, lords, and

priests, and what he called the toleration of man and his rights. "In

England they tolerate liberty; and what is liberty there? A shadow! But

here, a substance! There her existence is only nominal. She is mocked by

her very name." Independent of its moral instruction, this sermon was a

fine specimen of oratory, and greatly interested the members of both

houses, who very cordially shook the preacher by the hand. Though not

forgetting slavery in his discourse, the professor seemed too partial to

it.

This gentleman had just returned from his tour through Europe, where he

visited Sir Walter Scott, and other distinguished literati, and preached

in London.

I met Mr. Lowndes, the Howard of America, at Mr. Elliott's. He says,

that "Harmony presents much moral philosophy in practice. Flesh and

blood had hard work at first, but now they have but few desires to

gratify. Nature seems under the hatches, and they have little to wish,

want, or fear. But theirs is a stagnant life."

_14th._--Read Mr. John Wright's pamphlet on Slavery, in which he uses my

name in reference to my negro letter, and shows very clearly the evil

effects of slavery on the character of this country, and proves the

unalterable nature of the black man's right to liberty, and its

benefits.

{386} Mr. Rufus King, a member for New York, a gentlemanly English-like

speaker, confines himself to business, and to the grand fundamental

principles of every political question, and the consequences likely to

result from extending slavery over the continent. "In time," says he,

"you will enable the blacks to enslave the whites. Why, therefore,

should we of the free, be compelled to suffer with you of the slave

states?"

_18th._--I supped with Dr. Alison,[137] Chaplain to Congress, a

gentleman possessing every variety of knowledge. He is the friend and

correspondent of the Ex-presidents Jefferson and Adams, and of the

present President, and is known all over the country by his virtues.

This gentleman was visited by the black Baron de Vasey, and his friend,

from St. Domingo, who supped with him. On their quitting the room, the

doctor's black servant set up a laugh, which might be heard by the

baron, and all, far and near. "What's the matter, Sam?" said the doctor.

"Why, two niggers sat and took tea with my massa, at the same table!!"

In Virginia, the doctor complained of his fears of being murdered by the

negroes, one hundred of whom were owned by his hostess. She cried and

said, "she hoped the Lord would protect her." "Oh, no! you must not look

to the Lord for it; it is not there." She said she would free them, if

she could find any body to support them. Freed slaves must quit the

states, or be sold by it for slaves again! {387} Colonel Taylor has a

black uncle, a slave, for his body guard, and most owners are related to

their black cattle. A gentleman of Washington, too kind-hearted to whip

his house-negroes himself, leaves it to his wife, a fashionable,

beautiful female, holding, and going to levees, yet able to cow-hide her

negroes, whose screams, under the lash, scare Mrs. Little and family. A

cow-hide is no uncommon appendage of ladies here!

Squire Simpson, an old emigrant from England, whom I have before

mentioned as living near this city, once acted as a magistrate. Two

parties came before him for justice, but neither of them seemed disposed

to submit to his worship's decision. At last, the most choleric of the

two thus addressed Mr. Simpson: "Well! I don't see, I guess, that we can

settle it fairly. So here's at you. I'll fight you, Squire!" Both then

went out, magistrate and man, and decided the affair by battle. Simpson

was victor.

_24th._--Revisited Dr. Dawes, who is full of improving his farm by a

summer fallow, and turning it into grass without a crop. He has paid

only half the cash for his farm of 500 acres, because the title cannot

be completed. Any one, says ex-squire Simpson, would take it off his

hands. The doctor deems, as does Sir H. Davy, that plaster of Paris is

the natural food of plants; and it is found, more or less, in almost all

soils, particularly in England, {388} where manuring with plaster is

found to have but little effect, but in this country vice versâ.

Visited Mr. Plant, who holds 400 acres, all cleared and enclosed long

ago, and exhausted too, at 100 dollars a year rent, offered for sale at

fifteen dollars an acre, poor but useful, light, sandy loam, shining

bright with silvery mica. He manages this estate without a capital, by

the labour of himself, one slave and a boy; he hires none. He has sold

Bradford's Rest, a large estate, costing seven dollars, for 20 dollars

per acre; well sold!

_26th._--I rode this day to the bench of his worship, Squire Arden, with

Doctor Dawes, who was served with a warrant for a small debt for goods.

I carried the Doctor's diploma, to prove him a physician, authorized to

write prescriptions. The plaintiff is a neighbour of the Doctor's, who

had prescribed for his family, and therefore pleaded a set off. The

plaintiff then swore he would prove that the Doctor never was sent for

nor came! The Doctor considers almost all here as unprincipled and

conspiring against his cash. Quitting the diploma for the plough, he

gave up a practice of 400 or 500 pounds a year, at Wisbeach, in England,

where he was highly esteemed. His humanity here to poor exiles,

distinguishes him as a patriot and a philanthropist, and entitles him to

the applause and goodwill of all mankind. In September last, poor John

Steed, the English Quaker, {389} was fed, housed, physicked, and

restored to health, by this benevolent man. Steed was returning to

England; but how to return without money? There was money for him! My

warm-hearted friend, _the watchman_, a dear friend of the Rev. I.

Leathes, brother-in-law of the late Bishop of Bristol, put into Steed's

empty hands a purse, amply sufficient for his land and sea expenses.

This was noble! It is well to praise man for his humanity to a suffering

brother, but better to ascribe all the glory to his Maker, who gives

all, and blesses him with a generous heart, and who has promised that

"He who deviseth liberal things, by liberal things shall he stand."

_March 11th._--I revisited the astronomical, mathematical, and

philosophical Mr. W. Elliott, dining on vegetables only. He states that

it is impossible for a sensible, honest Englishman to prefer this

country to his own; and in knowing that he has quitted England for ever,

he experiences a feeling indescribably painful. To return no more is a

word next to death. Although he would not, at present, desire to live in

England, yet he would not advise any to quit who can live in it. The

soil here is unfit for man, and for an Englishman particularly. Both

mind and body barbarize and degenerate. He feels, at first, sanguine,

but soon after he begins to judge and compare, and finds that though the

government allured him here, yet that all is not gold that glitters. He

becomes {390} weak and emaciated, and drifts into the habits of the

country, where he is no longer the man he thought himself at first. The

labouring poor here are far behind, and more miserable than the poor,

bold peasantry of England. No man needs labour here long, if he would

work and not drink excessively; but he drinks and is undone.

_Sunday, 12th._--Met J. G. Wright, Esq. who has consumed, in segars, for

his own use, since he began smoking, twenty years since, 700 barrels of

flour, at the present price. One hundred and fifty dollars annually is

the cost of his smoking.

_14th._--The Hon. T. Law brought, it is said, half a million sterling

with him to this country, but has lost two-thirds of it. He married the

niece of General Washington, the most beautiful lady in Virginia; and,

at her uncle's request, Mr. Law settled on her, in case they parted,

15,000 dollars a year. The event, which seemed thus to be anticipated,

soon after occurred; for Mr. Law visiting England soon after his

marriage and leaving his wife in America, she, during his absence,

eloped with a young dashing officer in the army. Mr. Law returned only

to part with one of the most accomplished ladies in the land. She still

lives in high style, and her house is the resort of the most fashionable

parties.[138]

By Mr. Sutton, an English gentleman from Cheshire, I was this day

introduced to an hour's conversation with Mr. John Law, a lawyer of this

{391} city, son of Mr. Thomas Law, above mentioned. This gentleman

occupies a mean office, but seems very sprightly and acute, and though a

plain republican, has much of the blood of the Laws in him. He states

that he is in expectation of receiving 80,000_l._ from Sir Wm. T----,

for purchasing land in the wilds of the west, which is to increase in

value greatly in twenty years. For the same purpose, he also wishes to

get 150,000_l._ from English capitalists, who never mean to emigrate,

but who only wish to invest money in western lands. There are several

millions of acres, some of which, military lands in Illinois, are

selling at 37 and 50 cents an acre. Mr. Law proposes to be the agent,

and live on the spot, to settle poor emigrants from England on it, by

finding them implements and money for commencing, which is to be repaid

in produce. They are to live seven years rent free. He would make it his

business to interest emigrant societies in favor of this speculation, by

which the posterity of such capitalists are to benefit greatly. Mr. Law

is to receive only one quarter of the cash for his own trouble, that is,

_only_ about 37,000_l._ or 40,000_l._ out of the 150,000_l._

Birkbeck (he says) must be rich in ten years; which ten years of life he

admits a man must sacrifice before he can arrive at _comforts_. Ohio, he

states, has proved what time can do for a wilderness; and I say, that

time has proved that those {392} enriching improvements made by hands,

and not by time, can be bought any where for less than they cost in that

State, or almost in any other, Kentucky perhaps excepted.

_A reflection or two on litigation!_--The Judges here have not legal

knowledge enough for their station; and of course not weight of

character or dignity sufficient to fill it well. Counsellor Jones and

Key, of "_star-spangled banner_" fame, influence, and carry their

honours almost as they please.[139] The bar is greater than the bench!

Litigation frequently arises here from the imaginary independence which

one man has, or fancies he has of others, to show which, on the least

slip, a suit is the certain result. It is bad for the people that law is

cheap, as it keeps them constantly in strife with their neighbours, and

annihilates that sociability of feeling which so strongly characterizes

the English. From the constant litigation amongst the people of this

country arise that antisocial apathy, and want of those kindly feelings

of the heart, which shew themselves on all occasions, in the conduct and

character of the people of the old country. There were more suits for

debt in Washington county court, in a late term, (seventeen hundred),

than, perhaps, in all England! Further comments are left to the reader.

Judge Parsons, while only an advocate, completely upset the evidence

against a prisoner who employed him, and that in the following manner.

{393} The witnesses against the prisoner were all sailors. The advocate

disguised himself as a sailor, and offered to bet them twenty dollars

that the accused would not be hanged. They readily accepted the bet, and

when they came, over anxious to give evidence and convict the prisoner

at the bar, the learned counsel confounded them with their bet, the

court spurned their evidence, and the prisoner, though guilty, escaped

by this learned stratagem. At another time, in an important case of law,

where several parties were interested, he was requested to plead, he

said, "No! I cannot see my way clear." They then offered him 1,000

dollars for his neutrality, which he took. The other side then came.

"No," said he, as before. "Well then," said they, "if you will not plead

for us, we will give you 1,000 dollars not to be against us;" which sum

he took, and left other advocates to talk.

Edward C----, late in the service of Joseph Vipan, Esq. of Sutton, is

here elevated from the smock frock and stable, to the dress and society

of a merchant in this city. So great is the change and so mighty the

tyranny of custom, that what were his duties last year, would now be a

disgrace to him. Another would-be gentleman, in the same store, was

requested to assist his employer, a polished Englishman, in rolling a

barrel of dried fish out of the cellar into a cart only. "Oh! no, that

is _nigger's_ work," said he; and then left a good situation within two

hours after {394} he came to it. Such are the blessed effects of

slavery!

_15th._--Met Mr. Cooper, an English gentleman, at Washington, who has

grown comfortable rich, and has recently bought about 300 acres of land,

near this city, so exhausted, that no produce can be had from it for

years to come. The system pursued here, if carried into the old country,

would soon lay it waste, more effectually than either fire or sword. It

is more difficult to raise a hundred dollars here than a hundred pounds

in England. Individuals, who are rich in land, are generally without

cash, and have their personalty seized, and sold for small debts, of a

few dollars only.

_16th._--All kinds of fruit and vegetables (potatoes excepted) are now

remarkably scarce, and enormously dear, insomuch that they are not seen,

during the winter and spring, except on the tables of the rich. In

summer they cost as much or more than butcher's meat; yet thousands of

acres, all round the city, close to water and manure, are to be had by

any body free of rent! In summer the potatoes were one dollar fifty

cents per bushel; now, eastern potatoes sell for 50 to 75 cents, and

nothing but potatoes come on the tables of the bulk of the people. What

is the cause? "Why," says one, "the gardeners get rich and ride in their

single horse chaise, because the business is so profitable. They have no

competition. {395} Whatever they send to market is sold only at their

own price. It is their will to have 150 per cent, above the value of an

article. Rather than undersell, they would carry home their vegetables

for the cattle and pigs!" So that the will of the gardener governs the

price, although the means of opposition are open to all! The poor farmer

comes to market with his flour, but _his_ will is to take just what is

offered him. He is not in the gardener's secret of insisting and willing

to have ten dollars a barrel for flour, when worth only four dollars and

a half. But what is the real cause of the high price of vegetables in

this soil and climate of Washington? Why, no body gardens; not even the

rich; because they can buy cheaper than they can raise them; and it is

found that none but the poor, humble man, who has no capital, will

attempt it, because others can employ capital more profitably than in

gardening. It is therefore an undoubted fact, that the soil and climate

do not admit of vegetables being raised, at a much lower price than that

at which they are actually sold. In summer, continual watering and

shading are absolutely necessary, and the soil is poor into the bargain;

insomuch that the seed rises so weak, that the sun would burn up the

plants instantly, without great attention to shade and watering, and if

this were not so, myriads of grasshoppers would eat all in spite of any

measures for their preservation.

{396} _Winter Prices of Garden-stuff_

Winter greens, lightly put in, one quarter dollar per peck.

Spinach, the same.

Cabbages, of about four oz. weight, yellow and bad, having been buried

from the frost, four cents each.

Potatoes, seventy-five cents a bushel.

Carrots, bad and scabby, 9_d._ sterling, to one quarter dollar per peck.

_23rd._--Commodore Stephen Decatur[140] fell this day in a duel, having

killed five men in the same way himself. He swore shamefully at the

doctors while dying, because they could not extract the fatal ball from

his bowels. He is called by the National Intelligencer, "One of the

bright stars of Columbia, set for ever!" And the country is summoned to

mourn for him. The president and the heads of departments, with military

and naval officers and citizens, walked in procession at his funeral.

The laws of heaven and earth, on this subject, are here quite insulted,

by common consent. A lady of this district, hearing that her husband was

gone to fight a duel, fifty miles off, sent an express, charging that he

should be brought home a corpse rather than disgraced. It is a rule here

always to take skilful aim, and if one party chooses to reserve his

fire, he may go up and shoot the other, if he does not beg for his life.

{397} A gentleman once would not beg it, but the other said, "If your

life is not worth asking for, it is not worth taking!" And so fired in

the air.

A sinecure, or something in the nature of one, is held by Joseph

Paulding, Esq. of Washington.[141] The holder of this situation is

enjoined to write in defence of the American character and government,

and at the same time to vilify the British. Mr. Colvin, late editor of

the National Register, in a critique on Lancaster's lectures, says,

"that we (meaning America) are more virtuous than the people of other

nations, I cannot believe. It is sufficient that we are equal, not

worse." That there is no great superiority of moral worth on the part of

America, the following anecdote will prove. A gentleman seduced the

sister of his own wife, and then, to hide her disgrace, disguised his

wife in the uniform of a lieutenant of the United States' navy, and

married the young woman to her. The lieutenant of course went to sea

immediately, and, poor man! was never heard of more. The nuptials were

celebrated by candle-light, and all the gay company, except the priest,

were parties to this ingenious trick!

_24th._--Flour now is only four dollars and a half a barrel, five

bushels to a barrel. After hauling, grinding, and the cost of the empty

barrel, are deducted, it is seen that the farmer only receives two

dollars fifty cents, for five bushels of fine wheat. Under such

circumstances, where is profit?

{398} _Sunday, 26th._--I left this city and old friends, to return,

perhaps, no more. At Baltimore, on my way to Philadelphia, I met Joseph

Lancaster, teaching a few small children.

_28th._--Again at Philadelphia, where British and French goods are

selling at 200 per cent. under cost. So great is the distress for money,

that the regular merchants are sending their stock to auction. I visited

Mr. Potter, an English merchant, who has been established here ever

since the peace of 1786. He is now rich, but loves England still. He was

intimately known to the Duke of Kent. He says that corruption is rising

into an English sense, even here; and adding the state and general taxes

together, they make a sum little short of English taxation.

_29th._--Six hundred prisoners are this day in a state of mutiny,

endeavouring to escape by violence from the Philadelphia state prison.

One is shot, and three or four are wounded. The mail robbers now in

custody killed the driver of the mail, but they have restored all the

money, and pray that they may not be hanged.

_31st._--I parted with my old friend C., who promised to meet me again

at Baltimore, in June. I reached Newcastle, Delaware State, and visited

its old Golgotha, on a bluff, near the river Delaware, which washes the

feet of the dead, exposes a great part of the coffin, and bleaches the

skulls and bones of men. Numbers of horses tread on the {399} graves and

break in the coffins, for here is nothing to protect these bones from

insult.

I saw the effect of the late freezing rain on the trees, which, over an

extent of country six times as large as England, has despoiled trees as

completely as if chain shot had passed through them all. The trees and

shrubs are laden with ice, a weight ten times that of their own boughs.

Many farmers lost nearly all their timber and orchards: a ship also was

upset by the great weight of the ice adhering to her rigging.

_April 7th._--I met with a black gentleman who has bought a beautiful

farm, with a good house and improvements, six miles only from

Philadelphia, at twenty dollars an acre, at a sheriff's sale. A law has

just passed to prevent any more selling under two thirds of a fair

valuation. A quaker whom I met, states that Joseph Lancaster injured

himself by going to Baltimore. He did not succeed at Philadelphia, the

only place where he could have succeeded, because he expected more

attention from the inhabitants of that city, than they ever pay to any

body.

Visited Peale's museum,[142] a fine collection of native and foreign

curiosities, amongst the former of which are the skeleton of a mammoth,

15 feet high, and horns, nine feet long, under the belly of which, as

under an arch, a horse might run full gallop. I crept down the throat of

an alligator. {400} Several bodies of Indian chiefs are here to be seen

dried, standing in their usual dresses and attitudes, as well as some

Otaheiteans.[143] There is also the skin from the thighs and legs of an

Indian, tanned by Indians into fine leather, for thus they use their

prisoners taken in battle. I saw the manuscript of a poem of Major

André, penned about two months before his execution.[144] Here is also a

fine collection of national portraits.

_8th._--I this day set sail from Philadelphia for Charleston, in the

_General Wade Hampton_, and anchored at Newcastle in the evening.

_Sunday, 9th._--I rode with the captain, in his chariot, to the

beautiful seat and extensive powder mills of E. S. Dupont, Esq.[145] on

the Brandywine creek, a fine stream full of natural falls and working

many mills. We went for 500 barrels of gunpowder. Mr. Dupont, who

pressingly invited us to dine, seems a liberal, intelligent Frenchman,

of large capital, which sometimes vanishes by explosion, together with

the doors and windows of his elegant mansion.

During this twenty miles ride, I observed that thorn quicks are here

generally used as an outward fence, but they are badly managed. I saw,

on poor wet lands, large heaps of lime, formed by oyster shells and

stone, gathered and burnt for manure; in this way cheaply turning stone

into bread.

We received this evening three or four physicians {401} and other

passengers, to the number of ten or twelve, on board the _Wade Hampton_.

_10th._--At three, this morning, we got under weigh, sailing into the

bay of Delaware, and by noon arrived opposite to the light-house.

A family (says the Captain) from England, of the name of Clementson,

recently bought an estate from a scoundrel old countryman, of the name

of Watson, living at Philadelphia, at a price 200 or 300 per cent. above

its value. They paid in part about 6,000 dollars, but being unable to

pay the remainder, and having no written contract, he induced them to

quit and go to the wilds of Ohio, where, he said, he had much land at a

low price, which they should have for the money in his hand. He also

kindly gave them a letter of credit to his agent there; but on arriving,

they found that he was unknown, and had no land, nor agent; and they

were in consequence forced to sell their horses, waggon, and every

necessary, to enable them, in unspeakable distress, to return to

prosecute this scoundrel; but they had no evidence against him, and

therefore found it advisable to lose their money without going to law.

Having about 2,000 dollars left, they purchased and stocked a farm

bigger and better than the one for which they were to have paid 8,000,

or 10,000 dollars. Old countrymen, it is said, make the most complete

rascals.

_11th._--Now at sea, exposed to head-winds and sea-sickness. An Irish

gentleman from Missouri, {402} states that last week, on board the

steam-boat, he met a black archbishop and several of his inferior

clergy. This most reverend father in God was endeavouring to prove that

Adam, Noah, and all the prophets, and patriarchs, down to Jesus Christ,

were blacks, and that a small portion of mankind, and that the worst,

are whites, of whom Cain is the progenitor.

The Missouri Irishman has invested 50,000 dollars in land, the

advantages of which he deems to be yet dubious and prospective. He says

that society is bad, and that the people are unprincipled.

_12th._--Two old German gentlemen, heroes of the revolution, now on

board, state, that they knew the accomplished and unfortunate Major

André. When taken by three militiamen, in the capacity of a British spy,

endeavouring to seduce West Point, he was dressed as a citizen, instead

of appearing in the regimentals of his country, which greatly aggravated

his crime. He offered his gold watch and purse, and large pecuniary

compensation to be released, but the three men were firm. Both sides

regretted, and were unwilling to witness, his death; and the American

government would have saved him, if the British would have given up the

traitor Arnold. He was fairly tried, and no precipitation evinced

towards him. He thanked the court martial for their gentlemanly

treatment, submitted to his fate as a matter of course, and {403} with

great firmness prepared himself for it. Three months elapsed between his

apprehension and execution. But when he was led out to execution, and

saw the gallows instead of the rifle, his firmness, in some measure,

forsook him. He was elegantly dressed in his martial suit, and on giving

his cravat to his waiting man, only said, "I die for the honour of my

king and country;" at which General Green, the American commander, who

presided in the midst of the surrounding army on this sad occasion,

shook his head, and observed, "No! you die for your cowardice, and like

a coward!"

General Washington signed the order for his death with great reluctance;

but the army were dissatisfied and demanded the sacrifice. The example

was necessary and salutary, and in its general consequence calculated to

deter men of honour and respectability from such military meanness.

Major André hoped to the last to escape. The tories, of whom he was one,

had previously murdered some of the citizens and officers, in

consequence of which, General Washington determined on retaliation by

executing one of the British tory officers then prisoners, and ordered

them to draw lots to decide who of their number must die. The lot fell

on Sir Charles Asgill, who, but for the French influence of Count

Vergennes, and a most pathetic letter from the baronet's mother, would

have been executed.[146]

{404} The quakers, about New Jersey, were very loyal, and locked up the

wells, and withheld all aid from the rebels!

_Sunday, 16th._--Fine breeze; sailing by Cape Hatteras, to pass which

occupied two days. A strong current of air is here found, rushing to the

land, accompanied generally with tempestuous gales. A gap in the

Allegany mountains, towards which this current rushes, is said to be the

cause.

_18th._--At three o'clock this afternoon I landed at Charleston, and

found all nature in its most beautiful attire. Peas and all kinds of

summer vegetables are in great abundance, and the peach-trees full of

fruit. I found that my much respected friend, N. Russell, Esq. had died

only a fortnight since; he kindly inquired after me in his extremity.

_19th._--I met my old shipmate, Mr. Moses Wood. I bought twilled nankeen

trowsers for two dollars and a half. London clothes of good and best

kinds sell at lower prices than in London.

_Rattlesnakes._--A gentleman informed me that he once shot a rattlesnake

as thick as his thigh, and 26 years old. Its age is known by its tail.

It was near biting him. A neighbour of his left his house in search of

his swine, and being long away, his wife went after him and found him

dead, killed by a snake, to the bite of which the poor deceased had

applied a quid of tobacco, then found sticking on the wound. Another

neighbour, {405} who was also bitten, managed to walk home before he

fell, but died very soon after his arrival. I was told, also, of a

planter, out with his dogs and rifle after a deer, which he shot; but on

bringing it to lay on the horse, a rattlesnake struck the man, who was

found dead, with the buck and horse, which being tied to a tree was

starved to death. Thus they were all found dead in one heap together.

_20th._--By conversation with Judge King, to whom I presented J.

Wright's pamphlet on slavery, I learn that my negro case was much

noticed, and its exposure much and indignantly regretted. Mr. King says

that it was indiscreet in me to report facts, except from the evidence

of my own senses! If no testimony is to be received, but that of our own

eyes, half the evidence in the world is worthless. The Carolinians love

slavery, and hate all who hate it. Both Mr. King and Mr. Duncan state,

that in consequence of that affair, and of my being a foreigner, a

stranger in a strange land, if Gregory should prosecute me for an

advertisement, which I found it necessary, in pursuing the claims on the

Rugeley property, to publish against him, I should meet with but little

mercy from the jury!

_21st._--Called on Patrick Duncan, Esq., and took a final leave of him

and his beautiful gardens, in which are oranges, figs, sugar-canes,

pomegranates, and the prairie grass of South America, soft as silk in

hand.

{406} Received, from my warm-hearted Irish friend, Mr. Wood, 50 dollars,

an unsolicited loan, although he knows me not. Here is faith, greater

than almost any I have yet found in America.

The slave-owners, in this state, must maintain all their helpless and

infirm slaves, or kill them privately. They cannot become chargeable to

the parish, or state. O humanity, where art thou!!! As a punishment for

the lassitude of age, or the idleness of youth, a _nigger_ is stripped

naked, well flogged, then dressed all over with treacle (or molasses)

and hung up by his heels on a tree, in a swamp full of flies and

mosquitoes, which lick up the sweets, and sting and bleed him dreadfully

into the bargain. He is then a living lump of inflammation. What

ingenious torture this! how refined! how honourable to the taste and

ingenuity of a nation, the freest of the free, and who boast of

superabundant polish and civilization!

When with my cousin, Major Rugely, in May last, I was presented with a

beautiful black female baby, that could just creep, and which was given

and intended to be sent as a keepsake to my lady in England; but I, not

being qualified for a nurse at sea, nor indeed by land, declined this

well-intended gift. The Major then possessed a poor negro, who wishing

to die, was constantly detected in the act of eating dirt or lumps of

earth, a habit which procured for him a cow-hiding daily! I might have

had him, and branded him with my own {407} brand, F. As cattle it is

necessary so to distinguish one herd from another, and if they stray, or

are stolen, to advertise their persons, correctly describing the mark,

or brand, which is deeply burnt in, and never obliterated, unless it is

cut out!

_Sunday, 23rd._--I bade, this morning, a willing and final farewell to

Charleston city, and to all its bugs, mosquitoes, negroes, and

alligators, and a race of people, many of whom seem not much better than

they. I left behind me some copies of J. Wright's pamphlet on slavery,

for his Excellency, Governor Geddiss, the Attorney-General Haines, the

editor of the Courier, Mr. Thomas Mitchel, and Mr. Judge King, the

latter of whom promised to keep his a profound secret. The press seems

here to be more enslaved than under the most despotic government. At

night I found myself at sea, 60 miles from Charleston, in the

_President_ for New York. Fare, 25 dollars.

_25th._--I saw two young alligators emigrating to the north. Mr. Morse

(the son of the geographer, Dr. Morse)[147] states, that at New Haven

University, Connecticut, an education of four years costs only 1,000

dollars, board included. The same gentleman states, that in Connecticut,

republicanism and equality exist in greater purity than in any other

part of the union. The farmers and people generally live economically

and comfortably, surrounded with a cheap abundance of all the {408}

necessaries of life, but they keep no domestic servants, male or female.

They are their own servants. As to negroes, scarcely one is to be seen

in a day's travel. The people generally are so well educated in this

state, that almost any man is qualified for a schoolmaster in any of the

sister states. Dr. Paley's moral philosophy is a text book in their

college.

_26th._--A young gentleman on board, from the state of Albania, says

that Mobile, out of 600, lost 530 inhabitants, by the yellow fever last

summer. In winter the population is from 2 to 3,000.

A dashing English gentleman travelling through this state with a white

servant behind him, rode up to a one-room log-tavern, and begged the

landlord to let him have a room to himself, which was agreed to. In a

few minutes up came two native travellers, _equals_, who entered without

ceremony, when the Englishman began to curse the landlord for permitting

the intrusion. He replied, that he meant that the gentleman should have

the room to himself until other travellers came up.

_29th._--At ten this morning we made Sandyhook light-house. The scenery

here, all the way up to the city of New York, is delightful. Perhaps the

views presented by this city and neighbourhood are unequalled, both as

it respects the beauties of nature and the works of art. I landed at six

o'clock, and was introduced by Messrs. Morse {409} and Co. to the

boarding-house of Mrs. Mudge, where I met Mr. Dwight, a brother of the

late eminent Dr. Dwight, now editor of the New York Advertiser.[148] In

person this gentleman is said to be much like the Doctor.

_Sunday, 30th._--I accompanied Mr. Morse to the splendid Presbyterian

church of the eloquent Dr. Romaine,[149] whose prayers are the most

appropriate in manner and matter, and whose sermons are, with the

exception of Dr. Storton's, superior to any I have heard in America. On

this day, the appearance of this large city is most orderly and

christian-like. This laudable change is attributed to Sunday-schools.

All places of worship are thronged. How unlike Washington city! Mr.

Morse states that not only in New York, but in all the east, a religious

feeling generally pervades the people.

_May 1st._--Passed over to Brooklyn, a beautiful gay-looking village of

great extent in Long Island, in quest of my old friend, and western

fellow-traveller, Mr. Wheeler, whom I found three miles from the city,

living on a hired farm of about 30 acres of arable land, and six in

wood, or rather cedar, on which is a beautiful house, to which I was

warmly welcomed. It consists of six small rooms and piazzas on each

side, standing in an orchard fronting the public road, which, for four

miles, is like one continued suburban village all the way from New York.

The farm cost, two {410} years ago, without a house or well, 3,500

dollars, and the house and well have since cost 1,500 dollars. Mr.

Wheeler has hired this situation for one year only, at the rent of 300

dollars, ten dollars an acre, all poor and long-exhausted land, insomuch

that nothing can be raised without manure, which is bought at one dollar

per load, and hauled three miles.

Land, thus situated, is expected to be devoted to raising garden-stuff,

or to be occupied only as a suburban retreat. The mere farmer can

scarcely live out of it, even if it is his own, unless he cultivates

vegetables, and carries his milk to New York market, in small

quantities, daily. Those who have lived here eighteen or twenty years,

on their own estates, have only just lived, saved nothing, and been

always their own servants. Mr. Wheeler has three servants, one black

man, and a white man and woman. The white man has 100 dollars a-year;

the black man ten dollars a month; and the woman five dollars and board,

working from sun-rise to dark.

_2nd._--After dinner, Mr. Wheeler ordered out of the plough into the

carriage, his pair of handsome greys, when, with the ladies, we drove to

the beautiful neighbouring villages of New-town, Flushing, and Jamaica,

at the latter of which is the residence of Rufus King, Esq. a house by

no means equal to those of the village squires of England, yet very

inviting. Perhaps no where, {411} except in the vicinity of London and

Bath, can a more attractive ride of twenty miles be found; the whole

distance of road, from the city, seeming one continued village of new

and handsome farm-houses, with either a pleasure-garden, or green

pasture, or orchard, or all of them, in front of almost every house, any

of which may be bought, boards being up, _For sale, this farm_. But the

land, in every direction, is poor, except where superior and expensive

management exists. Every thing is sold from the land, which might make

manure and enrich it. The leaves of the forest trees now begin to

appear. The spring is late, yet the orchards are in full bloom. The

frost was severe last night.

Though he has three servants, Mr. Wheeler cleans his own boots. They

would not absolutely refuse, but would do it reluctantly, and feel

disgraced by the act; yet two of them are good servants. A black servant

lately broke into the cellar and dairy of Mr. Wheeler, and stole all the

bread and meat he could find; he is now in gaol. About two years ago, in

great rage with his sister, he caught hold of her head, and endeavoured,

with an axe, to chop it off; but not being able to get it into a fit

place, he chopped off two of her fingers, and nailed them on the

door-post!

_4th._--I made, on horseback, the tour of York island, about ten miles

in length and two in breadth. On one side is the noble Hudson, or great

North River, and on the other, the East River {412} and Hell-gate, and

the beautiful villages of Manhattan, Haarlem, and Greenwich. All the

road from the city, to the extremity of, and beyond the isle, is

adorned, on both sides, with the country-seats and pleasure-grounds of

rich citizens, who, like those of London, every morning and evening

drive to and fro in great numbers. Perhaps no city in the world is so

happily situated as that of New York, standing on this island, with the

sea to the south, and these majestic rivers, from one to two miles wide,

on the north and east, the banks of which are very high, and for twelve

miles crowned with mansions. The houses on the roads, thus leading

through the isle to the city, have each from five to ten acres of green

pasture, park, or pleasure-gardens, which renders them more rural,

though less splendid than those on the roads leading to London. I saw

from fifty to 100 convicts, heavily ironed, forming a new road for the

state; receiving no pay nor shirts, but only food.

I visited the supreme court, and inquired for Messrs. Emmett and

Sampson, but saw not these celebrated refugees.[150]

Mr. Wheeler agreed to purchase a quantity of seed corn from a neighbour,

which was to be picked, but much of it came in rotten. Mr. W. returned

the rotten part, and begged other corn to be sent in its place. "No,

send it all back! that is not the way we deal here;" in great rage,

{413} said the farmer, "you may do so in your country, but not here."

_5th._--Bade farewell to Long Island, and my much esteemed friends, the

Wheelers, who pressingly invited me to stay longer. I renewed my

invitation to them to come and make Whitehall their home, when, if ever,

they came to England.

I quitted New York, for Philadelphia, at ten this morning. Left a

history of Somersham for Mr. F. Morse of Newhaven.

Visited one of the packet-ships, the _James Monroe_, the most complete I

ever saw; every birth is a state room. For forty guineas, it transports

passengers to Liverpool in high style. All are fed luxuriously.

_6th._--At six this morning, I left Borden town, on the Delaware, where

are the ruins of Joseph Bonaparte's house, about to be rebuilt. Sixty

men are employed already. The estate, consisting of 300 acres, all poor

land, is now laying out into pleasure-grounds, and park, enclosed with a

fine fence; it cost five dollars an acre. Joseph came hither, it is

said, with ten millions of dollars from the Spanish treasury.

I reached the City of Philadelphia at ten this morning, just

twenty-eight days after I left it, since which time I have travelled

about 2,000 miles, and rested eleven days.

_Sunday, 7th._--I was present when Dr Storton, {414} administered the

rites of baptism to a large, respectable auditory. He is rather pompous

in his expressions, and theatrical in his action and manner, but

certainly an accomplished man. He has said that there is no preaching

talent in America but what is imported; but this is not strictly true.

_11th._ I wrote the following epistle to Mr. Day, of St. Ives in

England, by the ship Electra, bound for London.

_May 11, 1820._

Dear Sir,

At this distance of time and place, the recollection of you is

replete with all that is good and pleasant to me; while the esteem

and regard always professed and felt for you demand, at least, one

epistle, as a thing not to be withheld. I should have had great

pleasure in your correspondence, but it is now too late, as my

duties here are nearly at an end, and by the time this reaches you,

I hope, under the guidance of gracious Providence, that the

compass, in unison with my heart, will be pointing me towards my

own home and country.

The inducements to emigrate, and the facilities of living here, are

neither so great nor so many as I wished and expected to find them.

The majority of those who come are without capital and above useful

labour. Of this kind seem our friends ---- and ----, and others

known to you, whose {415} prospects are, I assure you, very

shadowy. I speak impartially. Even capital, I believe, can any

where be better employed than here. And as to labourers, there are

more than can be paid. By the late report of this city, it appeared

that 11,000 within these walls were in a state of unemployed

pauperism; while in one prison only, are 600 thieves and

incendiaries, the natural fruits of increasing poverty.

Land, generally, is not property in this country, because there is

infinitely more than enough; the surplus, therefore, is worth

nothing. What is already in cultivation by hired hands lessens,

rather than augments capital. Even potatoes, you know, cannot be

produced from one without the agency of the other. The markets are

all glutted, and without foreign demand, a surplus produce is not

desirable, because unsaleable and perishable.

All travel is restless labour, and "vanity and vexation of spirit."

Its idea was once so supremely fascinating to my ambition, that I

thought I never could have enough of it, and therefore wished

myself doomed to perpetual travel. I have my wish, or something

like it, and it disappoints me. During the last two years I have

indeed found "no continuing city;" it is well if I seek and find

one to come. I fly from city to city, from town to town, state to

state, climate to climate, with the velocity of an eagle. I have

frigid and tropical latitudes, polar cold and equinoxial heat,

wintry desolation, {416} and the summery foliage of oranges and

myrtles, all in the short space of one week, or less. For although

this beautiful city of William Penn lies in an Egyptian latitude,

winter has not long been over; whereas, it never enters the city of

Charleston, which I have just quitted, where

"Blossoms and fruits and flowers together rise,

And all the year in rich confusion lies."

The male youth generally of this, and other cities, are remarkably

polished, sprightly and prepossessing in their exterior; being of

tall and slender figures, and looking free and easy, without any

thing like levity, for each puts on all the airs, manners, actions,

and opinions of men, with his _first_ pair of breeches, and expects

to be treated as a man. But ringlets decorate the faces of both

sexes, and in other respects all are dandies, male and female! The

young ladies generally are not so handsome as the males; though

beauty is not rare amongst them. A woman's duties and province are,

I think, yet undiscovered. She is here, that is, in all sections

south of the Delaware, a little divinity, to whom all must bend,

give place, and pay idle homage; her tyranny is great, her

influence unbounded. Her lover, or husband, is outwardly her slave;

but as a wife, mother, mistress, she must yield to my unequalled

countrywomen. Youth here, is of very short duration; all soon look

old; and "all the days of the years of this vain life," soon come

to an end. Religion and duty seem but little understood, {417} and

less regarded, except it be to ascertain how little of either may

suffice. Paley's Moral Philosophy has been, perhaps, the text book

of the educated, who are very numerous; yet but few live and die

practical philosophers. Death is little dreaded, and often, as in

duelling, voluntarily embraced. Two selfish gods, Pleasure and

Gain, enslave the Americans. The scum of all the earth is drifted

here.

As this is sent off about a month after my other, and will be my

last letter from this country, I wish you to inform my good father,

if living, and Mr. Ingle, of my present refuge and intended return,

and assure them of my best regards. My beloved child, who,

by-the-bye, would become in part your ward if I returned no more,

is very precious in my sight; if you knew her, I should beg you to

pronounce a father's blessing on her; but it comes to her on every

western breeze. When I can, I will teach her to esteem you, and

perpetuate, what is of little value, the disinterested and most

sincere friendship of,

Dear Sir,

Your very obedient servant,

W. FAUX.

_11th._--Mistrust and suspicion are general in Philadelphia. The cause

is a general disregard or violation of duty. Two respectable quakers

would not suffer Mr. ---- to owe them eight {418} dollars for a day or

two, though guaranteed by a second person, who, for any thing they knew,

might be respectable; so they took out two pieces of muslin to reduce

the bill down to the funds in hand. "Notwithstanding this guarantee,"

said the quaker, "I will, and must have the thing squared." The

representative of my friend then paid the complete balance. I was

present at this transaction, and feeling both pained and amused, began

to speculate upon it, and to consider what could have generated this

general suspicion and distrust. It is the common effect of some cause.

What cause? A general violation or neglect of some prominent duties, not

directly guarded by the laws, but the observance of which is

indispensable to the good of mankind every where. Culpability of this

kind, in not doing to others as we would be done by, does more injury to

the world than all the thieves and incendiaries put together; because

the consequence in one case is particular, in the other illimitable. If

I act justly towards my neighbour, I confer both temporal and moral good

on him and on myself. But it stops not here: he learns thereby its

value, and acts in like manner towards others. On the other hand, if I

violate my duty to him, he retaliates not only on me, but on others

indiscriminately. He thinks he has been honest and unsuspicious long

enough, and bids adieu to rectitude perhaps for ever.

Last month at Dover, Delaware, Squire Loper {419} received sentence of

the court for passing forged notes, knowing them to be so. He had been

in the commission of the peace for 20 years, and received the forged

notes from a gang convicted before him of forgery. The notes had

remained in his hands ever since. A month ago, he desired a gentleman, a

neighbour of his going to Philadelphia, to buy him some iron, and

meeting the gentleman privately, gave him fifty dollars, saying, "Take

notice it is a fifty dollar note," and gave it him carefully wrapped in

paper. When the bearer offered it for the iron, it was discovered to be

one of the forged notes, well known to have been offered by the gang

before. The gentleman had some difficulty in keeping out of the

Penitentiary. On proving himself not to be a party concerned, and

promising to bring the Squire forward, he was released. The Squire

admitted the note to be forged, and said, he gave it to his friend only

in joke. On being arrested, he was treated with great liberality, but he

acted haughtily and foolishly. On his trial he would not employ counsel

nor set up any defence; but in a cool, sneering manner said, that the

note was given in joke, and the court might do as they would. He was

sentenced to six months' solitary confinement, thirty-nine lashes, and

never after to pass out of his own house in Dover without the letter F,

a foot long in scarlet, on his back, on pain of another six months'

confinement and thirty-nine stripes. But so great was the {420} public

pity for him, in court and out, both with judge and jury, that the

prison door was left open for him in hope that he would escape and quit

the neighbourhood for ever. He did escape into the town only, and came

back to prison voluntarily, where no such chance is again to be afforded

him.

At night, I went to the black church, where the black minister shewed

much uncultivated talent. After sermon they began singing merrily, and

continued, without stopping, one hour, till they became exhausted and

breathless. "Oh! come to Zion, come!" "Hallelujah, &c." And then, "O

won't you have my lovely bleeding _Jasus_," a thousand times repeated in

full thundering chorus to the tune of "Fol de rol." While all the time

they were clapping hands, shouting, and jumping, and exclaiming, "Ah

Lord! Good Lord! Give me _Jasus_! Amen." At half-past ten this meeting

broke up. For an hour it seemed like Bedlam let loose. At the close, one

female said, striking the breasts of two male friends, "We had a happy

time of it."

_16th._--Last week, in the state of Delaware, the High Sheriff had to

perform the duty of Jack Ketch, and hang his own nephew, for the murder

of his _own_ mother, the Sheriff's sister. The youth killed her by

striking her with a club on the temple. In the same neighbourhood and

the same week another youth was sent to gaol for poisoning his uncle, a

rich old gentleman, who being childless, had {421} taken this nephew

into the house and made him heir to all; but the youth being impatient,

went to a druggist for arsenic, which he said was to kill the rats, that

every night kept his uncle from sleeping. He mixed a portion of it in a

glass of apple-toddy and gave it to his uncle, but in so large a portion

that it began to operate immediately, on which the old man said, "You

have given me something to do me harm." The youth denied it, but the old

man grew rapidly sick, and feeling conscious that he was poisoned and

should die before the distant doctor could arrive, got out the will in

favor of the ungrateful youth, and having burnt it, died soon after.

A short time ago, the friends of a murderer, under sentence of death in

Pennsylvania, conspired together to procure a pardon from the governor,

by threats and intimidation. Their plan was to get the governor into a

room to themselves, and offer him his own life for the pardon of Lieut.

Smith, the convict, who had cohabited with Mrs. Carson, and taken

possession of her house and property, during the absence of her

husband, Captain Carson. When the latter returned and demanded his wife

and property, he was shot dead in his own house by Smith. The governor

had intelligence of the plot, and seized the conspirators before they

could carry their design into effect.

_Sunday, 21st._--Quitted Philadelphia on board the steam-boat. A

gentleman, Lieut. Skinner, of {422} the United States' navy, from the

Franklin, just arrived from Gibraltar, states, that the sailors, on

settling accounts, will go on shore and spend the balance, several

hundred dollars, in two or three days, lavishing from 100 to 200 dollars

a-day, until all is gone, when they re-enter. So indifferent are they to

the use and value of money, that they give it away, and suffer any

person to plunder them with impunity. The cause, says he, of this

indifference and insane extravagance, is to be found in the strictness

and severity of the discipline on board, where money is of no use to

them.

_Duelling._--So frequent were these meetings between the officers of the

United States' navy and the British garrison, that the governor felt

compelled to interfere, in order to save life, as one or two duels

occurred daily, originating in the most foolish disputes.

The parties met always on neutral ground. For any expression uttered by

one officer of the 64th regiment, a general challenge was sent by the

officers of the United States' navy to the regiment; wishing to include

_all_, from the colonel down to the lowest in rank.

Two young Americans, of New York, at Gibraltar, met in consequence of a

trifling dispute. The offending party fired three times without hitting,

while his opponent fired every time into the air, begging the other to

apologize, saying, "If I take aim I shall kill you, but I can stand all

your {423} fires." This concession was, however, obstinately refused; on

which the seconds stepped forward, and said to the party who had acted

so generously, "Sir, you must fire in your own defence!" Both again

charged, and Sands, the aggressor, fell dead. The survivor was arrested,

but acquitted with honour; being told by his commander, that if he had

not acted thus, he would not have received him again into the service.

The young reprobate who fell, was a classical scholar, of fine person

and great mental accomplishments, but ripe for perdition.

_22nd._--I reached Washington city, now emptied of the wise men, and

which, after quitting Philadelphia, seems mean, indeed, both morally and

physically. All the bogs and swamps, in and round the city, are now full

of melody, from the big, bellowing bull frog, down to the little singing

mosquito, while rotting carcases and other nuisances perfume the warm

southern breezes.

A lady, in a letter to Mr. Thomas Coote, from New Orleans, states that

eighteen American pirates under sentence of death, in the jail of that

city, have many friends, much intent upon effecting a rescue, by forcing

the prison, which is strongly guarded by the military. Every night

almost, for this purpose, mobs collect around it and set fire to distant

parts of the city, in order to divert the attention of the guards from

the prison. Great alarm exists on the subject, and it is feared, {424}

that on the day of execution, much blood will be spilt.

One hundred sail of slave-ships, full of slaves, appeared in sight, one

day, during this spring, off the coast of Africa. Several of them were

fast sailing vessels, built, owned, and manned by the free citizens of

free America. Some were chased and taken by the British and American

navy. This trade is now considered to be more extensive than ever.

_30th._--Visited Mr. Dunn, who states that the small red squirrel, of

this state, is seen to seize and castrate, in a moment, the large grey

squirrel, which greatly fears and always flies at the sight of the

former.

Are those English people who are now in America happier than they were

in England? I will take upon me to pronounce, that in the aggregate,

they are not. Happiness and misery are not mere localities, for as God

is the father of all, the earth is his and the fulness thereof; his

frowns or smiles are not bounded by geographical lines and latitudes;

the whole human family are under his wise economy. God's management is

always right. He can blast prosperity and bless disappointment, so as to

keep it from disappointing; thus bringing good out of evil, light out of

darkness, blessings out of curses, and curses out of blessings.

Blessings unblessed are curses in disguise, and adversity blessed is a

blessing. We need his blessing {425} upon every thing, even on his

blessings. I am sometimes disposed to think that the blessings of

American liberty are unblessed.

Mr. Elliott deems universal suffrage, as it exists in America, an

universal evil, because the worst and meanest of mankind, who are the

most numerous every where, are enabled to exert an overwhelming

influence over the good and the honourable. Every man here is a segment

of the government. Mean and evil men seek to represent their like. A

good man cannot descend to the mean mode of popularity; he cannot bribe

with whiskey; he cannot promise what is evil to perform; and therefore

but few good men are in the government. Antipathy to Englishmen, and

whatever they suggest, is general and nearly national.

For the following very interesting, original, and last letter of a

distinguished, yet unfortunate artist, I am indebted to an old

philosophical friend, whose well-judged opinions of and extensive

acquaintance with men and things, make his sentiments precious and

almost oracular. Let him here receive my thanks for the many pleasant

hours which I spent in his company, and for the rich materials of

thinking gathered from him.

_Washington, September 5th, 1820._

Dear Sir,

I embrace the opportunity of writing to you by the favour of Mrs.

Orris. I enclose a letter received {426} from the celebrated

_Francis Guy_, landscape painter, who lately died at New York. He

was at the head of his profession in this country, and perhaps in

the world. He was born near Keswick, in Cumberland, England. I knew

him well, and esteemed him highly, as well for his virtues as his

talents. In this letter, (which I believe was the last he wrote, it

being dated only a few days before his death) you will know the

opinion of many artists, who have left their country to seek for

food and fame in this, and see how they are rewarded for the

exercise of their talents in this great republic of North America.

_He (Guy) told me that he had not received 50 cents per day for his

labours!_ You are welcome to any use of this letter.

Buildings seem to rise very fast, notwithstanding the badness of

the times, as they are termed.

Please to favour me with a letter as soon as convenient. I am in

daily expectation of the nuts, &c. The ground has been ploughed

some weeks for their reception. I am in good health, but my

mother, my wife, my brother, his wife, and oldest child are all

very sick.

Please accept my best wishes for your welfare. The club also wish

to be remembered to you.

Your Old Friend.

To Mr. Faux.

{427} _Brooklyn, Long Island_,

_June 29th, 1820._

My Dear Friend,

I received yours, with its inclosures, in due time, and it would be

a difficult thing for me to describe the pleasure I feel at seeing

such a proof of your continued friendship. There is, indeed, a

something in a real upright and downright honest John Bull, that

cannot be found in the sly, say-nothing, smiling, deep speculating,

money-hunting Jonathans of this

all-men-are-born-equally-free-and-independent, negro-driving,

cow-skin republic.

It is surely wrong to be content with nothing, because not blessed

with all. We see bad effects, we hate them, and we grumble, but ten

to one it is because we are unacquainted with the cause from whence

they spring; but there is one self-evident, hell-born cause of

endless ills in this land, which, for want of a better name, we

will call avarice. From Maine to Georgia, on all occasions, the

general question is, How much shall I get by it? What will it fetch

me? Pray what benefit will that be to me? &c. &c. From this,

man-stealing, mail robberies, piracy, murders, thefts, swindling,

forgeries, lying, cheating, slavery, whips, gags, chains, and all

the black catalogue of monstrous ills proceed. Indeed, that angel

who is described by Milton as being more fond of admiring Heaven's

golden pavement, than any thing glorious aloft, is the ruling god

of this nation; and in imitation {428} of him, they are for ever

chasing dollars, walking half bent under the accursed dominion of

selfish views. But death, the mighty hunter, will catch them all,

and then, in company with their god Belial, they will enjoy the

name, title, and privilege of _fools_. There is a national church

liturgy in England, and if ever there should be one adopted here,

the following I think ought to form a part of it.

Money, money, is all our cry,

Money, the total sum!

Give us money or else we die;

O let thy money come!

But I am rambling from the Capitol. Your son has drawn it very

well, but I wish he had drawn it on a larger scale, that the order

of columns and windows might have been more distinct. However, it

is the wrong side of the building; it is the east front and north

end that I must paint, looking down towards George-town, and the

place I sketched the view from was just above your house; therefore

I must paint the east front and north end. This, like a fool, I

forgot to inform you of; but if both fronts are to be alike, then

what you have sent will do; if not, then I will thank both you and

him to send me another drawing, at least so far as the centre of

the east front differs from that of the west.

Since I wrote the above, Mr. King, the painter, has been in this

place, and informs us that both {429} fronts of the capitol will be

the same; therefore, if that be so, what you have sent will answer;

and when I come to your place in the fall, I will reward your son

for his drawing, or if he choose to make a charge, I will send the

money by the post, whatever it may be.

Give my dutiful respects to Dr. Thornton, and tell him that I wish

he could see the picture of Washington city when it is finished--I

think it will be a grand sight. I am now painting a large view of

Chichester, in England, for Governor Clinton; in which his

likeness, with those of Judge Miller and Doctor Mitchel, are to be

painted on the fore-ground. I wish the doctor could see this

paradise scenery also. You talk of coming to York; I wonder if ever

I shall have the pleasure of seeing you here. In your last, you ask

if I have any communications to send. Perhaps I may have some to

send concerning myself, for be assured that if we do not now

condescend to go out of our old beaten track, we must fall through

thick and thin. When that should be, it would be no sin to do one

of the worst things in the world, that is, turn one's own

trumpeter.

God prosper you in all your good ways, keep you from all bad ones,

and may you live contented, and die happy!

Faux's Memorable Days in America, 1819-20; and Welby's Visit to North America, 1819-20, part 2 (1820) · 第 16 / 53 题