HINTS TO BEGINNERS[16]
_Selection of Arms._--There is no single arm that can be used
advantageously for all classes of shooting. It is therefore necessary in
the first place to decide for what purpose the arm is to be used. A
careful perusal of the text under “Arms” and “Ammunition,” will be of
assistance in reaching a decision. The next step is the selection of the
arm. As already stated, the cheap, unreliable, and unsafe arms are to be
carefully avoided. It is preferable to buy a second-hand arm of a
reputable manufacturer, if in good condition, than a new one of inferior
make. Second-hand arms frequently have defects that cannot be detected by
the novice, and, if obliged to buy a second-hand arm, it is advisable to
ask some expert shot to assist in making the selection. The price of the
best grades of pistols and revolvers is, fortunately, within the reach of
almost every one, and, if at all possible, new arms should be purchased.
In any case, whether a new or a second-hand arm is to be chosen, it is
well to examine and handle all the different models of the best makers.
The fit and feel of the arm are very important. Select an arm that feels
comfortable, and which, when properly held, fits the hand so that the
first joint of the trigger finger just touches the trigger when that part
of the finger is bent at right angles to the barrel.
The correct manner of holding the pistol or revolver is shown in Fig. 84
and illustrates how the hand should fit the arm. Note particularly the
position of the trigger finger and the thumb. The trigger finger in this
position acts directly backward in pressing the trigger, and the thumb
assists materially in steadying the piece. If the piece is too large for
the hand, the trigger finger will be more or less extended, and will pull
side-wise to a greater or less degree, and thus increase the difficulty of
fine shooting. Fig 84a illustrates the approved position of the thumb when
the locking catch interferes with the extended thumb. The fit of the arm
is much more important, and has a vastly greater effect upon the results
than fine distinctions between the merits of the different arms. Any of
those named are excellent and are capable of shooting much more accurately
than they can possibly be held by the most expert shots. A man with a
large hand will probably find the Remington pistol or the Colt New Service
revolver best suited for him; another with a hand of medium size will find
the S. & W. pistol or the S. & W. Russian Model revolver most desirable;
while another still, with a small hand, may prefer the Stevens pistol or
the .38-caliber military revolver, either the S. & W. or the Colt.
If an arm is wanted for steady use, select the plain blue finish, and wood
handles; elaborate engraving and gold, silver, copper, or nickel finished
arms are handsome and pleasing, but, if much used, become burnt and
discolored where the powder gases escape, and soon become unsightly. A
blued finish is also to be preferred when shooting in the sunlight. Most
arms as offered on the market have hard rubber handles. These become
smooth and slippery when the hand perspires, and are not as desirable as
wood handles. A few expert shots prefer pearl handles.
[Illustration: Fig. 84.--Correct Manner of Holding the Revolver with Thumb
Extended]
[Illustration: Fig. 84 a.--Showing Thumb when Locking Catch Interferes
with Extended Position]
The trigger pull should have the smallest possible travel and be smooth
and positive. The smaller the travel of the hammer and the more rapid
its action, the quicker will be the discharge after pulling the trigger.
If the trigger does not pull smooth and “sweet,” or becomes “creepy” from
wear, it should be corrected by a skilled gunsmith. While the rules allow
a trigger pull of 2 pounds for the pistol and 2½ pounds for the target
revolver, many expert shots prefer to have their arm pull from ½ to 1
pound more. The rules also allow 7½ and 8 inch barrels for the
revolver. Many of the experienced shots prefer to have their revolvers
balance near the trigger, and are of the opinion that the extra length of
barrel above 6½ inches does not offset the disadvantage of poorer
balance. In the pistol, however, the length of the barrel is invariably 10
inches. Accuracy in aiming is lost very rapidly as the distance between
the sights is reduced below 7½ inches.
For target shooting, the .22-caliber pistols will be found admirably
suited for beginners. The charge being light, there is less liability to
“flinch,” a fault easily and most invariably acquired when the novice
begins shooting with a heavy charge. The practice in aiming and pulling
the trigger with these arms is excellent training and a first-rate and
valuable preliminary to the more difficult and practical work with the
revolver.
The double-action feature in a revolver is of very little practical value.
Owing to the varying amount of resistance to the trigger in operating the
mechanism, the aim is disturbed more than if the hammer is cocked with the
thumb. Even in rapid-fire shooting better results are obtained with a
double-action arm if used as a single action. It is also more difficult to
make the trigger pull smooth and short in double-action mechanisms.
_Manipulation._--Most of the accidents with firearms are caused by
carelessness and ignorance in manipulating them. The revolver and pistol,
being much smaller, are more dangerous to handle than the rifle or
shotgun. An experienced pistol shot can easily be singled out by the
extreme care and unostentation with which he handles his arms.
On picking up an arm, or if one is handed to you, open the action at once
and make sure it is not loaded. _Always_ do this, even if it is your own
arm and you are quite sure it was not loaded when you last put it away;
some one, without any idea of danger, may have loaded it in your absence.
Cultivate and practise the habit of always holding the arm, whether
loaded or unloaded, so that it points in a direction where it would do no
harm if it were to go off unexpectedly.
By observing these simple rules, serious accidents will be impossible. No
one should be allowed to handle firearms in a shooting club or participate
in any of the public matches until these rules have been thoroughly
mastered.
_Position and Aiming._--If you know of a club or shooting organization to
which one or more first-rate pistol and revolver shots belong, it is well
to join it, if possible. Much more rapid progress can be made by
observation and by following the suggestions of experienced shots than if
one is obliged to solve the various problems without such assistance or
advice. In order to familiarize yourself with your arm, it is well to
practise aiming and pulling the trigger before any actual shooting is
attempted. By inserting an empty shell for the hammer to strike upon, the
piece may be aimed and “snapped” without injury.
The position you adopt is very important. Stand firmly on both feet, with
the body perfectly balanced and turned at such an angle as is most
comfortable when the arm is extended toward the target in aiming. Let the
left arm assume any position that may be comfortable and natural. Select
a small black spot with an extensive white background to sight at. A small
black paster on a window-pane with the sky for a background, is excellent
for this purpose. When the aiming is correct, that is, when the sights are
properly aligned, their position with reference to the spot or bull’s-eye
should be as shown in Fig. 85. The top of the front sight should just make
contact with the lower edge of the bull’s-eye corresponding to the
position of VI o’clock. It has been found by experience that it is less
fatiguing to lower the arm, fully extended, holding the piece, to the
target than to raise it up to the target.
[Illustration: Fig. 85--Correct Position of the Sights in Aiming at the
Target.]
_Firing._--With the pistol or revolver in the right hand cock the hammer
with the thumb, making sure that the trigger finger is free from the
trigger and resting against the forward inner surface of the trigger
guard. In cocking the piece have the barrel pointing upward. Then extend
the arm upward and forward, so that when you assume your firing position
the piece will point about twenty degrees above the bull’s-eye. With your
eyes fixed on the bull’s-eye at VI o’clock inhale enough air to fill the
lungs comfortably and lower the piece gradually until the line of the
sights comes a short distance below the bull’s-eye. Now, holding your
breath and steadying the piece as well as you possibly can, bring the line
of sights into the position shown in Fig. 85. At the same time gradually
increase the pressure on the trigger directly backward, so that when the
sights are pointing at the bull’s-eye the hammer will fall.
Be careful not to pull the trigger with a jerk, but ease it off with a
gentle squeeze, so as not disturb the aim. Accustom yourself not to close
the eye when the hammer falls, but note carefully where the line of the
sights actually points at the instant that the hammer falls. You will, no
doubt, find it almost impossible to pull the trigger at the moment the
sights are just right. The hammer will fall when the line of sights may
point a little too high or too low, or to one side or the other of the
bull’s-eye; but patient practice will correct this, and in time you will
be able to let off the arm at the right moment.
[Illustration: Fig. 86--Showing the Travel of the Line of the Sights About
the Bull’s-eye in Aiming]
The pulling of the trigger is a very delicate operation; it is, in fact,
the most important detail to master--the secret of pistol and revolver
shooting. If the trigger is pulled suddenly, in the usual way, at the
instant when the sights appear to be properly aligned, the aim is so
seriously disturbed that a wild shot will result. To avoid this, the
pressure on the trigger must always be steadily applied, and while the
sights are in line with the bull’s-eye. It is, of course, impossible to
hold the arm absolutely still, and aim steadily at one point while the
pressure is being applied to the trigger; but, in aiming, the unsteadiness
of the shooter will cause the line of the sights to point above the
bull’s-eye, then below it, to one side of it, and then to the other, back
and forth and around it, as shown by the dotted lines in Fig. 86. Each
time that the line of the sights passes over the bull’s-eye the smallest
possible increment of additional pressure is successively applied to the
trigger until the piece is finally discharged at one of the moments that
the sights are in correct alignment. Long and regular practice alone will
give the necessary training of the senses and muscles to act in sufficient
harmony to enable one to pull the trigger in this way at the right moment
for a long series of shots. A “fine sympathy” must be established between
the hand, the eye, and the brain, rendering them capable of instant
coöperation.
After obtaining a fair idea of aiming, etc., watch carefully when the
hammer falls, and note if it jars the piece and disturbs the aim. If not,
you are holding the arm properly. If the aim is disturbed, you must grip
the arm tighter or more loosely, or move your hand up or down on the
handle, or otherwise change your method of holding the piece until your
“hold” is such that you can snap the hammer and the aim remain
undisturbed. This aiming and snapping drill is largely practised by expert
shots indoors, when they do not have the opportunity to practise
regularly out-of-doors.
_Target Practice._--If your first actual shooting is done at the range of
a club, it is best to ask one of the members to coach you until you get
accustomed to the rules, etc. A target will be assigned to you, and you
will repair to the firing point and load your arm. It is well to let your
coach fire the first shot or two, to see if your piece is sighted
approximately right. If so, you are ready to begin shooting. If the sights
appear to be as in Fig. 85 at the moment of discharge, then the bullet
should hit the center of the bull’s-eye. If, after several shots, you are
convinced that the bullet does not strike where it should, the arm is not
properly sighted for you.
In adjusting the sights you will find it an advantage to remember a very
simple rule: To correct the rear sight, move it in the same direction as
you would the shots on the target to correct them, or move the front sight
in the opposite direction. Most target arms have the front sight
non-adjustable, and the rear sight adjustable for both windage and
elevation. A few arms have interchangeable or adjustable front sights for
elevation. Move the sights a little at a time, according to the foregoing
rules, until they are properly aligned. A few ten-shot scores should then
be fired for record. As you become accustomed to the range, rules, etc.,
you will feel more at ease. This will inspire confidence, and your
shooting will improve correspondingly.
Do not have your sights too fine. Fine sights are much more straining on
the eyes, and have no advantage over moderately coarse sights. The rear
sights as generally furnished are purposely made with very small notches,
so as to enable individuals to make them any desired size.
It is well to have the trigger pull at least ¼ of a pound greater than
the minimum allowed by the rules. If much used, the pull sometimes wears
lighter; and if there is little or no margin, you run the risk of having
your arm disqualified when you wish to enter an important match.
Never use other ammunition in your arm than that for which it is
chambered. A number of accidents and much difficulty have resulted from
wrong ammunition. In the same caliber the actual diameter of the bullets
frequently varies considerably, and a few shots, even if they should not
prove dangerous, may lead the barrel, and thus cause much delay and
annoyance. When a barrel is “leaded” from any cause it will become
inaccurate. In such cases, particles of lead usually adhere to the inside
of the barrel at or near the breech. A brass wire brush, of suitable size
to fit the barrel, will generally remove it. When this fails, carefully
remove all oil, cork up the opposite end of the barrel and fill it with
mercury, letting the latter remain in the barrel until the lead is
removed.
Occasionally the powder is accidentally omitted in loading a cartridge.
When the primer explodes, the bullet may be driven partly through the
barrel and remain in it. When this happens, whether from this cause or any
other, always be careful to push the bullet out of the barrel before
firing another shot. If the bullet is not removed, and another shot is
fired, the barrel will be bulged and ruined. This may occur with a light
gallery charge.
When shooting the .22-caliber long rifle cartridge, there will be an
occasional misfire. In withdrawing the cartridge the bullet will stick in
the barrel and the powder spill into the action. To prevent this, hold the
barrel vertically, with the muzzle up, and withdraw the shell carefully.
Then remove the bullet in the barrel with a cleaning rod; or extract the
bullet from a new cartridge, inserting the shell filled with powder into
the chamber back of the bullet and fire it in the usual manner.
Do not use BB caps in any pistol that you value. They are loaded with a
composition of fulminate of mercury in combination with other substances
that cause rusting and the bullets have no lubrication. These caps will
ruin a barrel in a very short time. The .22-caliber conical ball caps are
loaded with black powder, and the bullets are lubricated, making this a
much better cartridge; but it is best to adhere to the regular .22
ammunition for which the arm is chambered.
Never under any circumstances shoot at objects on the heads or in the
hands of persons. There is always a possibility of something going wrong,
and such risk to human life is unjustifiable, no matter how skilful you
may be.
It is necessary to exercise extreme care in practising with the pocket
revolver. Some persons delight in practising quick drawing from the pocket
and firing one or more shots. This is dangerous work for the novice to
attempt. Most of the pocket weapons are double action. If the finger is on
the trigger and the arm catches in the pocket when drawing, a premature
discharge is likely to result, which is always unpleasant and sometimes
disastrous. Practice in drawing the revolver from the pocket or holster
should always be begun with the arm unloaded. Only after a fair degree of
skill is acquired should actual shooting be attempted. For quick drawing
from the pocket the only double-action revolvers that are fairly safe to
handle are the S. & W. Safety Hammerless, and the Colt “Double Action,”
which has a safety notch for the hammer to rest on.
Drawing a revolver from a holster is easier and much less dangerous than
drawing it from the pocket. Larger and more practical arms are generally
carried in holsters, and such arms should be single action in all cases.
In practising with a holster weapon, fasten the holster on the belt, and
anchor the belt so that the holster will always be at the same relative
position. The holster should be cut out so that the forefinger can be
placed on the trigger in drawing. Always carry a loaded revolver with the
hammer resting on an empty chamber or between two cartridges.
In the woods, or in localities where such shooting would not be likely to
do any harm, it is good practice to shoot at a block of wood drifting down
in the current of a swift-flowing stream, at a block of wood or a tin can
swinging like a pendulum, from horseback at stationary and moving
objects, and from a moving boat at similar objects. Such practice is
largely indulged in by cowboys, ranchmen, and others in the western part
of the United States. The shooting is generally rapid-fire work with heavy
charges at short range, and is to be commended as being extremely
practical.
Many of the published reports of wonderful shooting are gross
exaggerations. The prowess of the so-called “Gun Men” of New York and
other large cities is greatly over-estimated. These criminals do not
practice shooting with the fire arms they use but operate by stealth and
intrigue which makes them dangerous. They are, in fact, very poor
marksmen, few of them being able to hit an object the size of a man more
than 15 or 20 feet away.
In shooting a long series of shots with black powder ammunition, when the
rules allow it, the barrel should be cleaned and examined every six or ten
shots, depending upon the clean-shooting qualities of the ammunition used.
It is well to examine the shells, also, and note if the primers have been
struck in the center. If not, then some of the mechanism is out of line,
and the parts likely to have caused the trouble must be cleaned.
After securing good, reliable arms, stick to them. Much time and progress
is frequently lost by buying and trying different arms, ammunition, etc.
If in any of your shooting, you should get results that are peculiar and
unsatisfactory, make it your business to find out the cause of the
difficulty, and remedy it as soon as possible.
“Blazing away” a large quantity of ammunition carelessly and recklessly is
absolutely valueless as practice, and is a waste of time. Give your whole
attention to your work, and try your very best to place every shot in the
center of the bull’s-eye.
It is very important to keep a full, detailed record of all your shooting,
for comparison, study, etc. A suitable book should be provided for this
purpose. Do not fall into the habit of preserving only a few of the best
scores; but make it a rule to keep a record of _every shot_, and figure
out the average of each day’s work. The more painstaking and systematic
you are, the more rapid will be your progress. By careful, intelligent
work, it is possible to become a fair shot in three or four months, and a
first-rate shot in a year.
_Matches and Competitions._--After a number of good shots have been
developed in any club, there is generally a desire to measure skill with
the members of another club. This leads to friendly matches, which are
usually very enjoyable and instructive. Shooting in a match places a man
under a certain strain which affects individuals quite differently; some
become nervous and shoot poorly when the best work is expected of them,
while others are braced up by the occasion and shoot more brilliantly than
under ordinary conditions.
Before competing in any match be sure to _thoroughly familiarize yourself
with all the conditions_. This will prevent mistakes that frequently
disqualify competitors and lead to disagreeable controversies. Avoid
getting into any arguments or disputes with range officers, or officials
in charge of the matches, and particularly while the matches are in
progress. The range officers are invariably extremely busy and it is
unjust to the other competitors to usurp more of their time than is your
proper portion. They are generally intelligent men who have been selected
because of their fitness for the positions they hold, and their decisions
and rulings should be accepted as final. If for good cause you should wish
to protest against any decision or ruling of an officer in charge, do it
in a quiet and gentlemanly way, and whether the rules require it or not,
such protest should be made in writing.
Beginners, as well as those who keep up their practice shooting, should
enter the annual championships of the U. S. Revolver Association each
year. These events are conducted by the Association in different parts of
the country simultaneously, under as nearly identical conditions as
possible. By this arrangement, long and expensive journeys to one place of
meeting are avoided, and all those interested in the sport can participate
without serious inconvenience.
Competing in these events is extremely advantageous and beneficial. It
enables the beginner not only to note his improvement from year to year,
but affords training and experience in shooting under real match
conditions, and will correct any misinterpretation of the rules. The more
experienced shot, by entering these contests is enabled to compare his
skill with that of the leading marksmen of the country, and accurately
determine his position among them from year to year.
Persons wishing to compete in the annual championships should practice
regularly throughout the year under the conditions of the matches; firing
the full number of shots and _within the specified time limits_ in all
cases.
The National Pistol Match and the National Rifle Association matches are
generally held at some selected state or government range, and at a
certain specified time. All the contestants are, therefore, shooting on
the same ground and approximately under the same conditions. All these
matches are shot in the open; i. e. without shelter or protection from the
wind. When shooting under these conditions in the glaring sunlight, it is
a decided advantage to wear suitable, colored large-lensed spectacles to
temper the light and rest the eyes. The sights and top surfaces of the
barrel should be smoked or blackened to prevent the reflection of light.
This may be accomplished by burning a small piece of gum camphor, which
makes an excellent smoke for this purpose, or by painting with “sight
black.” A wide brimmed hat will also add to the shooter’s comfort in the
bright sunlight. Nailed or rubber soles for the boots or shoes are to be
preferred because they do not wear slippery.
In squadded competitions the weather conditions must be accepted as they
are at the time of the shooting. In re-entry and individual matches the
time of the shooting is sometimes optional with the competitor. When this
is the case it is a decided advantage to select a time when the
conditions of light, wind, etc., are most favorable. On normal clear days,
the early forenoon, or just before sunset, are generally the most
favorable for suitable light. The wind generally slacks up to a certain
degree also just before sundown. Immediately after a shower the conditions
are sometimes excellent.
The position of the target with reference to the sun must also be taken
into consideration. It is generally best to shoot directly toward or
directly away from the sun. Rapid-fire shooting in a gusty wind is perhaps
more difficult than under any other conditions. When the wind is steady
one can brace up against it and do fair shooting, but when it is unsteady
there will invariably be some wild shots. In deliberate untimed shooting
one can wait for a lull and get the shots in during such brief intervals.
In practising rapid-fire shooting, great care is necessary in order to
prevent accidents, especially in the case of the automatic pistols, which
remain cocked and ready to pull the trigger after each shot. In shooting
within a time limit, practise to use the entire period and endeavor to do
the best possible work, getting in the last shot just before the end of
the period.
In team matches always follow the instructions and suggestions of your
team captain implicitly. Coöperate with him to the limit of your ability
in developing the best and most consistent work of each member of the
team. Always remember that the high _average_ shooting of a team wins more
matches than the brilliant shooting of an individual.
In training for matches be abstemious and maintain good physical
condition. If your liver is torpid it must be stimulated. Do not tire
yourself with too much practice shooting. One or two hours practice daily
is generally ample.
_Cleaning and Care of Arms._--To maintain the highest efficiency in an
arm, it is necessary to keep it in perfect order. The working parts must
be kept clean and oiled, and the barrel should receive special attention
and care. The residue of some powders is less injurious than that of
others, but the arm should in all cases be cleaned and oiled immediately
after it has been used. The cleaning should be thorough. Heavy cotton
flannel is excellent for this purpose. It should be perfectly dry. Much of
the fouling will rub off without moisture, but if moisture is necessary to
soften the fouling in places, use thin oil. Never use water, ordinary
kerosene, or similar fluids. For certain kinds of smokeless powders,
cleaning fluids have been prepared that give good results. Be careful to
use the special fluid that is adapted to the particular powder used, as
the wrong fluid may not accomplish the desired results.
A good cleaning fluid for many of the Nitro Powders, such as “Bullseye,”
“R. S. Q.,” “Walsrode” etc., is Dr. Hudson’s nitro solvent formula, as
follows:
Astral oil (or Kerosene free from acid) 2 fluid ounces
Sperm oil 1 fluid ounce
Acetone 1 fluid ounce
Turpentine 1 fluid ounce
NOTE.--To make sure that the kerosene or Astral oil is free from acid,
it can be shaken up with some washing soda, which will neutralize any
free acid that may have been present.
To clubs, or those who wish to make up a cleaning fluid in quantities, the
above will prove very effective and inexpensive.
For cleaning the inside of the barrel a wooden rod is best. It should have
a knob on the end of such size that one or two thicknesses of the cotton
flannel around it will fit the bore snug and tight. Square patches of
suitable size may then be cut in quantities and used as required. Clean
from the breech end of the barrel whenever possible. The slightest burr or
injury at the muzzle will spoil the accuracy of an otherwise good barrel.
Particular care should be exercised, especially if a steel rod with a slot
is used, to prevent the wad from “jamming” in the barrel. Continue
cleaning the inside of the barrel until tight-fitting patches, when
withdrawn, show no discoloration, and the barrel is warm from the friction
of the cleaning. Then saturate a fresh patch with good oil and pass it
through the barrel several times, making sure that the entire surface of
the grooves has been thoroughly coated with oil. After the cylinder and
other parts are cleaned, they should also be oiled.
A good oil for cleaning is “Three in One”; for preventing rust, use
Winchester Gun Grease or refined sperm oil. Plenty of oil should be kept
on the circle of teeth in which the pawl engages in revolving the
cylinder. If smokeless ammunition is used, the oil should be removed from
the interior of the barrel and the chambers of the cylinder, a day or two
after the first cleaning, and fresh oil applied.
In warm weather, when the air is humid, arms rust very quickly. If they
are not kept in an air-tight compartment, they should be inspected, and,
if necessary, re-oiled every few days. Under favorable conditions, a
thorough cleaning and oiling will preserve the arm in good condition for a
month.
If it is desired to store the arms, or protect them for long periods of
time, the interior surfaces of the frame, and all the mechanism, should
be carefully cleaned and oiled, and then the entire space within the frame
filled solid with non-liquid grease, like the Winchester “gun grease.”
After cleaning the barrel and cylinder, the bore and chambers in the
cylinder should be filled solid with the grease. This treatment excludes
the air, and absolutely prevents oxidation. The exterior should be oiled,
and then coated heavily with “gun grease.” Place the arm in a dry woollen
cloth, or flannel cover, and wrap it up in a double thickness of new
manila paper of the weight of ordinary writing paper. Repeat this,
wrapping twice more, each wrapping independent of the other. Then lay the
arm in a dry place, where the temperature will always be uniform, and not
so warm as to melt the grease. An arm protected in this way will remain in
good condition for a period of two years.
Another method of protecting weapons from rust is to immerse them in oil.
The wood or rubber stocks should be removed and the arms suspended from a
rack in a large glass jar with a ground glass cover to prevent the
evaporation of the oil. This is a very quick and effective method and is
much more convenient than the preceding plan. The best quality of refined
sperm oil should be used.