for the imagination; though the immense distances and the mysterious
depths, that he traverses, and the indifferent hardihood, with which
he encounters his perils and toils, naturally inspire an undefined
admiration; yet the real exposure, toils and dangers of the interior
journeys of our adventurous landsmen are, probably, quite as numerous,
though they elicit much less of that feeling of romance and homage to
daring, which is so readily called forth in the case of the other.
The sailor carries his home with him. The fathomless and swelling
cerulean is to him as the scenery of his birth place. No verdure, no
enclosures of his paternal home are more pleasant, desired or natural,
than good sea room. The winds and waves are chartered alike to convey
him from danger, and to furnish him with the spectacles, varieties
and pleasures of new ports. Not so with the landsman, far from home
in the land of the stranger. Every new object, every variety of soil,
climate, vegetation, strange plants and trees, strange men, dresses,
religions, modes of building, strange customs, and, more than all,
strange speech, awaken every moment those feelings, which made the
Romans denominate the strange host by a word, that implies an enemy.
At every step nature puts on new forms of hostility, and warns him
against uncalled espionage of her privacy, and familiarity with her
secrets. His weary steps, his worn down horse or mule, furnish no
facilities of escape from those combinations of danger that imagination
so readily creates, where they do not really exist. A whole community,
with all their innate and national likes and dislikes, are always
ready to yield to the natural human repugnance to whatever is a
departure from its own ways, and to make a war of extermination upon
the defenceless and desolate strangers. The ancient bard admired the
temerity of {257} those, who first dared, with only a thin plank to
interpose, between them and death, to commit themselves to the winds
and waves. If we viewed the daring in all its aspects and bearings
it would furnish equal ground for admiration, to contemplate one or
a few solitary travellers setting forth on a journey of a thousand
leagues, through strange countries, among people at war with each
other, and in language, manners and religion furnished with a
radical and unchangeable ground of jealousy, dislike and hostility.
How happens it, under such circumstances, that men ever break the
tender ties, the natural and strong charities of home, and go far
away, to enter askance, embarrassed and afraid, the habitation of
the stranger, knowing nothing of his language and character, and
only knowing that the stranger has a religion and customs, not only
different, but hostile? The love of gain, curiosity, the disposition
to meet adventures, and the wandering protuberance can only furnish
adequate motives.--We believe, that Americans, and particularly the
New Englanders have more ample endowments of these combinations, than
any other people. If we have ever for a moment given place to the
traveller's vanity, in thinking, that in visiting some new and distant
region, we had achieved an exploit,--on reaching the desired point,
that vanity has been instantly corrected by finding compatriots there
before us, who seemed quite at home, and wholly unconscious, that the
attainment of their new domicil had given them any claims to celebrity.
We were recently indulged with the reading of a manuscript journal of
an overland tour from Jackson, in Tennessee, by way of Memphis, the
Arkansas, and one of its long and undescribed branches, over the wide
prairies to the mountains that separate between our territory and that
of New Mexico; to Santa Fe and the towns in that vicinity; and thence
back, over the arid plains between Santa Fe and the Council Bluffs,
on the Missouri. The caravan noted in their journal, as a common
matter, that their trip had extended between five and six thousand
miles. It was not a little amusing, or furnishing moderate excitement
of interest and play of the imagination, to become {258} acquainted
with the thoughts of these hardy denizens of the forests of Tennessee,
as they first emerged from the dark woods upon the ocean prairies of
the Arkansas. Their reasonings upon the strange country over which
they past, in one place covered with countless buffaloes, in another
with moving sands, and still in another offering the temperature of
winter in summer, in parallels south of their nativity; upon the
different soils, temperatures and configurations of the country, have
an intrinsic interest. They are not the reasonings of cosmogonists, or
geologists, or chemists, or botanists, or philosophers; but of men,
who reason from first impressions,--who make short work of knotty and
debateable points, and where they cannot untie the Gordian knot, make
no ceremony in cutting it with the hunter's knife. Nothing could be
more interesting, than to witness this little caravan surrounded by
hordes of the ruthless red Tartars of the desert, brandishing their
lances on horseback, and scenting the plunder with panther keenness
of instinct. Forewarned by the fate of caravans that had preceded
them, how little they had to hope, except from the fears of these
Ishmaelites, they poise themselves on their native intrepidity, arrange
their little phalanx, and remind the classical reader of the deportment
of the ten thousand amidst the strange and innumerable hordes of
barbarians, through which, partly by battle, and partly by policy,
they made their way. The interest does not diminish, when we see them
intermix with the Spanish strangers, equally ignorant and bigoted; the
one calling in act cupidity and cunning, to countervail the cupidity
and cunning of the other. What a spectacle must be furnished by the
encounter of such a band with countless thousands of buffaloes! What
scenes are witnessed in their encampments for a month, with no other
itinerary, than the windings of an unknown river, the course of the
planets, or the distant blue mountains, whose peaks yet want a name!
How different their incidents, thoughts, views, food and rest--their
nightly encamping and morning departure along the grass plains,
that vision cannot measure, from the pursuits and themes of us, who
dwell in towns! Yet painful {259} and laborious and hazardous as are
these distant excursions, those who engage in them, soon acquire an
invincible attachment to them, that renders all other pursuits in
comparison stale and tedious!
After wandering six or eight weeks over these prairies, living on
buffalo meat without bread or salt, and begrimmed with grease, smoke
and the fine dust of the prairies to a brotherly resemblance with
the red men, and not at all particular about making their toilet of
a dress, which in the first instance smacked nothing of dandyism,
nothing can be more amusing, than their ablutions, and beautifyings,
and conversations, as, in a mountain-bounded vale, with a rivulet for
mirror, they talk of the Spanish beauties, and lustrate and prepare for
entering upon the scene of their profits and conquests.
In an article before us, we propose to take a brief survey of the
journal of Dr. Willard, an amiable and very correct young man, now
residing in our city, and calculating to become a permanent inhabitant,
of a journey to the interior of New Mexico, and a residence for some
years in the interior, and, more than all, a descent of the Rio del
Norte from its head springs to Matamoras, at its mouth,--an immense
extent of interesting country, as far as our reading extends, wholly
unexplored. Our regret is equal to his own, that while passing down
this long, interesting and undescribed river, he had not been more
particular in noting the physical aspect of the country, the character
of the soil and productions, animal and vegetable, on his route. But,
not contemplating any thing beyond refreshing his own recollections,
by noting down obvious and diurnal facts and incidents, the journal
wants that fulness and variety, which he would probably give to it,
were he privileged to travel over the same ground again. How much it is
to be desired, that travellers should remember, while traversing new
and unexplored regions, that what may seem trivial and common, while
under the eye, will assume a different interest and importance, when
surveyed anew by memory. No journal of travels in a new country can be
uninteresting, so that the traveller is full and faithful in noting
{260} down, in the freshness of vision and actual occurrence, what is
passing and spread under his eye.
Dr. Willard was a citizen of St. Charles, on the Missouri; and joined a
Missouri caravan to New Mexico, as it appears, with mixed inducements.
He had something of the common American propensity to seek his fortune;
and seems to have been disposed to make his _debut_ and perform his
first quarantine among the Spaniards, choosing to make his first
experiment in spoiling the tents of the Philistine, rather than the
children of his own people.
Dr. Willard left St. Charles, May 6, 1825. The caravan consisted of
thirty-three persons. He had not journeyed beyond the settlements of
the Missouri until the 16th, when he records in his tablets, that he
slept under a tent for the first time in his life. The greater part of
the long distance between St. Charles and the mountains at the sources
of the Arkansas, is a country of rolling prairies, until we reach the
great plains of the Arkansas, generally covered with grass, and of but
moderate fertility. A narrow belt of the last portion of the distance
is not unlike the deserts of Arabia,--a sterile plain of sand heaps,
with but here and there a few of the hardier weeds and plants, which
seem to have settled here, as outcasts from more fertile and genial
regions. The route, laying across the head sources of the larger rivers
of the Missouri and Arkansas, traverses but few rivers or creeks, that
are not fordable.[133] Although it has the reputation of being an
exceedingly arid region, one of the most frequent occurrences noted in
his journal, is being drenched with rains. On the 22d, he remarks, that
the earth, over which they travelled, was completely saturated with
rain; it having rained every day, save two, since their departure.
Another occurrence, which we have noted in all similar journals, and
one of the most unpleasant character, is the escape, or what is called
the breaking away of the horses. One mode of securing them on these
boundless grass plains is technically called 'hoppling'--we imagine a
corruption of the word 'hobbling.' The fore and hind legs of the horse
are fastened by a kind of fetter, generally {261} of leather. Horses
accustomed to this kind of impediment can travel with ease far enough
to feed; but with not sufficient facility to evade the owner. But the
more general security is the feeling of companionship with each other,
and with their owners, which these generous animals soon acquire;
and which has so much influence, that affright, or the calls of wild
horses, or some extraneous circumstance, is necessary to overcome it.
But these circumstances frequently occur; and though the caravans have,
or should have a guard of one eighth of the company, of sleepless
vigilance, to guard against such disasters, it often happens, that the
horses break away; and we can imagine few employments, except dunning
and borrowing, more irksome and hopeless, than that of turning out upon
the great buffalo pasture a thousand leagues by five hundred in extent,
in pursuit of horses, which after all make it a matter of choice, even
if discovered, whether they will be taken or not. But it so happens,
that these animals, with the municipal habits of settled life, and
certain remembrances of country and home, start back on the track of
their outward march, and with their heads towards the natal spot; and
from this circumstance it seldom happens, that, when overtaken by their
owners, they are not persuaded to be retaken.
On the 22d they see droves of elk, antelopes and deer; and of the
latter kill two. Here is the view of prairies boundless to vision, of
only moderate fertility, but covered with grass, and adorned with a
great variety of flowering plants. A number of ravines, filled with
water, are crossed with difficulty. It is mentioned as a difficulty
of frequent occurrence, that they could not find sufficient wood for
cooking. 24th, see two droves of elk--20 in each. Some deer among
them; of which one is killed. At night they encamp on the banks of
a creek, supposed to be a branch of the Verdigris of the Arkansas.
Friday, 27th, depending on their guns, and game having failed, they
start without breakfast. Between 10 and 11, a fine buck is killed;
and they feast high again. This night encamped on the waters of the
main Verdigris.[134] Here they find a skirt {262} of timber. Among the
plants are noted wild onion, hog potatoe, wild tansy, prickly pears,
and a great variety of flowering plants and shrubs. It is recorded
on the 28th, that they went three miles out of their way, to arrive
at wood and water. On the 29th they encamped by a little cotton wood
tree, the only one in sight on the plain. They cut it down for fuel.
Every one knows the difficulty of burning green cottonwood. The rains
are still frequent. On the 30th they see the first signs of buffaloes.
Delighted with the fragrance of the flowering prairies over which they
pass. On the 31st they passed mounds, composed of rocks resembling
lumps of iron ore. They encamped on a small creek, skirted with a few
lonely trees.
June 1st, they discover buffaloes. He thinks that they could not
have been less than 100,000 before noon. Killed eight or ten. Dine
upon buffalo soup and steaks; which, although eaten without bread or
salt, he considers delicious. Continual exercise on horseback, and
associations with the sterility and desolation of the desert, would
probably render any food such. This day they passed a very large
town, or community of the animals called prairie dogs (_arctomys
ludoviciana_.) Dr. Willard describes them, as larger than they have
been commonly represented, and of the size of a domestic cat. They
considerably resemble a dog in appearance, except about the head, which
bears a close analogy to that of the squirrel. Their community contains
some hundred burrows; the surface of their town being kept perfectly
clean and smooth. On the eminences made by the dirt carried out of
their burrows, they sit, and fiercely bark defiance at the approaching
traveller. Their form seems rather clumsy; and their hair is short, and
of a light red color.
In crossing the creek before them they found two buffaloes mired in
the mud. They humanely endeavored to assist one of the unfortunate
animals out, and restore him to his free plains; but he was spent; and
drowned notwithstanding their efforts to disengage him. On the opposite
shore of the creek, the buffaloes covered the plains, as far as their
eyes could reach. Wolves and antelopes were bounding among them in
all directions. {263} In the distance were red sand hills, which
reflected the sun's rays, and seemed like a burning wall, bounding this
magnificent park of nature. On the 7th they passed several dog towns;
fed upon buffaloe flesh; and found no other material for fuel, but the
dried manure of the animal. On the 8th they reached the main Arkansas;
which they found nearly half a mile wide, although it must have been,
by its meanders, 1,200 miles from its mouth. The velocity of the river
at this point was from three to three and a half miles an hour. The
western reader will not need to be informed, that this is the full
width, and more than the velocity of the river at its mouth. He found
the waters potable; which it is well known, they are not in its lower
courses.
An unpleasant accident occurred here. In firing upon droves of
buffaloes, they turned them out of their direction upon the course
of the caravan. Six pack horses broke from their ranks, probably
in affright. After pursuing them ten miles, three were recovered.
The other three, loaded with goods to the amount of three hundred
dollars, and with clothing and provisions, were never recovered. A Mr.
Andrews, of their company, who had gone out to hunt, was captured by
the Indians; and after being detained unharmed eight days, escaped from
them, and overtook his company.
On the 15th they crossed the Arkansas, to hunt, and lay in a stock of
provisions, on the opposite shore. On the 18th they left the Arkansas;
having thus far accomplished something more than twenty miles a day,
on an average. Hence they travelled, part of the way over sand hills,
forty-five miles; in which distance they found some water, though it
is commonly destitute. This brought them to the small river called
the Semirone.[135] The 23d brought them to a fine spring, surrounded
with huge rocky knobs, on which were interesting, ancient, Indian
fortifications. Small timber, wild plumbs, grapes and currants skirt
the borders; affording a charming variety to the eye, after the long
and dreary expanse of prairie, which they had traversed. They inhaled
the fragrance of various aromatic flowers, and {264} listened to the
singing of birds. They here left the small creek, called the Semirone,
upon which they had been travelling since they left the Arkansas, and
took their direction for the mountains. On the 24th the summits of the
Rocky mountains visible in the distance. On the 29th, mountains in
view, white with snow, and supposed to be distant 100 miles. Passed a
creek, which they judged to be a water of Red river.
The last day of June, they began to ascend the mountains. The latitude
of their point of ascent is not laid down. But we should suppose
their general course to have been west from the point, whence they
started. This was an interesting point of their journey. From a vast
expanse of naked plains they now began to ascend high mountains. Alpine
scenery surrounds them. They inhale a highly oxygenated atmosphere.
The sighing of the wind in mountain pines and evergreens is heard,
and they rapidly pass from the dominions of scorching summer to the
cool and brisk spring breeze. The atmosphere is that of March, and the
strawberries, and vegetation of a similar character, are in blossom.
They here perform a lustration, preparatory to entering into the
Spanish settlements. They wash away the dirt and grease coated on
them, during their long march over the hot and dusty plains, and put
themselves in trim to show themselves in presence of people of a
certain degree of civilization. Here they met a party of ten or twelve
Spaniards, who had come out from Taos to prevent them from smuggling
their goods.
Their reception by the people would not furnish much interest in the
description. We presume the chief effort between the parties was, to
determine which should be most dextrous in circumventing the other. Dr.
Willard boarded with a Spaniard of the name of Pablo Sucero, at twelve
dollars a month. The country hilly, mainly destitute of timber, and by
no means fertile. The church is a large mud building; and the people do
not seem to him to be very attentive to the ceremonial and duties of
their religion.
We think, the article would not be destitute of interest, if we {265}
were able to enter into ample details of Dr. Willard's residence among
this people, where he remained two months, in the practice of physic.
On the fourth of July, the American traders in that region, who then
made a considerable of a showy concourse, turned out to celebrate
the great festival of the natal day of their liberties. Dr. Willard
prepared a flag with the American eagle. They went through their
evolutions and firings much to the credit of their own patriotism;
and no doubt, to the edification and delight of the good people, men,
women and children, of Taos. The people received them in the different
quarters of the town with shouts of '_Viva la Republica!_' Much of the
journal is occupied with accounts of difficulties with the officers of
the customs, in relation to the duties demanded by the Spaniards upon
their goods.
Dr. Willard manifested a prudent regard to the observances of the
Catholic ceremonial; and was soon in full practice of physic among
the people. Among some hundreds of cases, which he records, there
were all sorts of complaints, that flesh is heir to; and not a few
bore evidence, that depravity had found its way, with its attendant
penalties, to these remote recesses of the interior mountains, and
among this simple and pastoral people, where such results ought not
to have been expected. Among other patients, he prescribes for the
acknowledged concubine of a priest; and in another case, a reverend
personage, sworn of course to celibacy, hesitated not to admit the
claims of his offspring. Some of his patients, as would be the case
among us, disputed his charges. Others in gratitude repaid him far
beyond his claims. He seems to us to have been a very discreet and
sober faced young gentleman, prudently disposed to consult _Our Lady of
good counsel_; in other words, to keep professional secrets; for the
ladies trusted him. The old ladies, in particular, gave him the masonic
and confidential grip, advised him to shrive and take a conversion,
marry a young lady of the country and become one of them. These amiable
_old Christians_ thought, no doubt, that a man can take a conversion
when he chooses; and that nothing more is necessary, as many {266}
of our enlightened friends here believe, than to feel, that it was a
point of interest to become a good Catholic, really to become so. He
very frequently attends _fandangoes_, which appear to be of a character
similar to our country balls. His practice seems to have been constant
and extensive. Among his patients, he numbers priests, the governor,
the military; young and old, male and female; and not a few Indians,
and among them some chiefs. He notes in his tablets very frequent
attendance upon religious festivals; and they seemed to him poor and
cheap shows, only capable of furnishing interest and curiosity for a
people a little above the Indians in point of refinement. Though decent
and respectful in his deportment, while among the people, and in view
of the solemnities, he speaks of them with sufficient indifference,
when away, and in communion with his own thoughts. He probably was not
sufficiently aware of the influence of such a religion of forms and
observances, in keeping in order a rude and ignorant people, who were
incapable of a more spiritual service. However immoral they may have
been with this superstition and these observances, we have no doubt,
they would have been still more so without them.
While Dr. Willard shows an evident disposition to think kindly and
respectfully of the people, among whom he sojourned, it is obvious
from various incidental circumstances, noted in the journal, that the
fandangoes and evening amusements were conducted in a style of the
coarsest simplicity,--removed, it is true far above the intercourse of
their red neighbors, but probably quite as far from that of our people
in the same condition. Very few of the ladies were even tolerably
pretty; and most of them were coarse, sufficiently forward, and not at
all remarkable for attractions either of persons or manners. Some few
were delicate, and some even beautiful.
From his recorded intercourse with the priests, it would seem, that he
was almost uniformly treated with kindness and liberality. In fact,
they evinced, so far as can be inferred from their deportment, a good
degree of liberality. There can be little doubt, that the superstition
of the people reacts upon them, {267} and compels them to a seeming
devotion to the formal and ceremonial part of their worship, from
which they would gladly escape. With the progress of free inquiry, we
confidently anticipate a consequent gradual triumph over the influence
of bigotry.