to make out an account for the inspection of the American minister.
When I had completed it, I obtained the signatures, of some of the
first among the inhabitants of Monte El Rey, and that of the civil
officer before mentioned, testifying as to the truth of what I said, so
far as the circumstances narrated had come under their observation. The
General having received the list of our names, which he had requested,
he now desired, that we might all come to his office, and receive the
right of citizenship from his hand, as a reward for what we had done.
I put my paper in my pocket, and proceeded with my companions and Mr.
Jones to the indicated place. The General had been much surprized to
find my name in the list furnished him; but as I entered the room, he
arose hastily from his seat and shook my hand in a friendly manner,
after which I introduced him to the consul. He seemed surprised as he
heard the name of this gentleman, but said nothing. After pointing us
to seats, he walked out of the room, saying he should return in a few
moments. I concluded, that he thought, I had brought the consul, or
that he had accompanied me for the purpose of questioning him on the
subject of my imprisonment and that of my companions. He returned, as
soon as he had promised, having some papers in his hand. After he had
seated himself, he began to interrogate me with regard to what had
happened to me, during the long time that had elapsed since he had last
seen me, adding, that he did not expect ever to have met me again; but
was happy to see me a citizen of his country. My answer in reply to the
last part of his remarks was short. I told him, he had not yet enjoyed
any thing from that source, and with my consent never should.
He looked very serious upon this manifestation of firmness, or {232}
whatever it may be called on my part, and requested to know my
objections to being a citizen of the country?
I replied that it was simply having been reared in a country where
I could pass from one town to another, without the protection of
a passport, which instead of affording real protection, subjected
me to the examination of every petty officer, near whom I passed,
and that I should not willingly remain, where such was the order of
things. Besides, I added, I was liable to be thrown into prison like a
criminal, at the caprice of one clothed with a little authority, if I
failed to show a passport, which I might either lose accidentally, or
in some way, for which I might not have been in the least in fault.
The General, in reply, asked me if in my country a foreigner was
permitted to travel to and fro, without first presenting to the
properly constituted authorities of our government, proof from those
among the officers of his own government appointed for that purpose,
of his being a person of good character, who might safely be allowed to
traverse the country? I told him I had once attempted to satisfy him on
that head, and he very abruptly and decidedly contradicted my account;
and that now I did not feel in the least compelled, or inclined to
enter upon the matter a second time. All which I desired of him, and
that I did not earnestly desire, was, that he would give me a passport
to travel into my own country by the way of the city of Mexico. If
I could once more place my foot upon its free soil, and enjoy the
priceless blessings of its liberty, which my unfortunate father, of
whom I could never cease to think, and who had died in his prison,
assisted in maintaining, I should be satisfied.
While I thus spoke, he gazed steadily in my face. His swarthy
complexion grew pale. He read in my countenance a strong expression of
deep feeling, awakened by the nature of the remembrances associated
with him. He felt that there was something fearful in the harvest
of bitterness which the oppressor reaps in return for his injuries
and cruelties. I thought, he {233} feared, if he did not grant my
request for a pass, that I might carry into execution the purposes of
vengeance; to which I used to give utterance in my burning indignation
at his conduct at the time of my father's death. Whenever I saw him
pass my prison I seized the opportunity to tell him, that if my time
for redress ever came, he would find me as unflinching in my vengeance
as he had been in his injuries. I only expressed the truth with regard
to my feelings at the time, and even now I owe it to candor and honesty
to acknowledge, that I could have seen him at the moment of this
conversation suffer any infliction without pity.
He did not hesitate to give the pass I desired; but asked me what
business led me out of my way to the United States around by the city
of Mexico? My direct course, he remarked, lay in a straight direction
through New Mexico. For reply, I drew out of my pocket the paper I
had written before coming to his office, and read it to him, telling
him that was the business which led me to the city of Mexico. I then
asked him if all the facts there stated were not true? His answer was
in the affirmative; 'but,' added he, 'you will not be able to recover
any thing, as I acted in conformity to the laws of my country. If you
will remain in this country I will give you something handsome to
begin with.' I assured him that I would not stay, but I wished him
to show me the laws which allowed, or justified him in imprisoning
myself and my companions for entering a country as we did, compelled by
misfortunes such as ours. In return, he said he had no laws to show,
but those which recommended him to take up and imprison those whom
he deemed conspirators against his country. 'What marks of our being
conspirators did you discover in us,' rejoined I, 'which warranted
your imprisoning us? I am aware of none, unless it be the evidence
furnished by our countenances and apparel, that we had undergone the
extreme of misfortune and distress, which had come upon us without any
agency on our part, and as inevitable evils to which every human being
is liable. We were led by the hope of obtaining relief, to seek refuge
in your protection. {234} In confirmation of our own relation, did not
our papers prove that we were Americans, and that we had received legal
permission from the very government under which we then were, to trade
in the country? The printed declaration to this effect, given us by the
governor of Santa Fe, which we showed you, you tore in pieces before
us, declaring it was neither a license nor a passport.' The General
replied, that he did tear up a paper given him by us, but that in fact
it was neither a passport nor a license.
"Now sir," said I, "I am happy that it is in my power to prove, in the
presence of the American consul, the truth of what I have said with
regard to the license." I then produced another copy of the paper torn
up by him, which had been given my father by the governor of Santa Fe,
at the same time with the former. He looked at it, and said nothing
more, except that I might go on, and try what I could do in the way of
recovering what I had lost.
The consul and myself now left him, and returned to Capt. Cooper's.
The consul laughed at me about my quarrel with the General. In a few
moments the latter appeared among us, and the remainder of the day
passed away cheerfully in drinking toasts. When the General rose to
take leave of us, he requested the consul to call upon him at his
office; as he wanted to converse with him upon business. The consul
went, according to request, and the General contracted with him for
the transportation of Gen. Solis, and sixteen other prisoners to San
Blas, on board his vessel, whence they were to be carried to the city
of Mexico. The 7th of May was fixed for the departure of the brig, as
the General required some time for making necessary arrangements, and
preparing documents to accompany the transmission of the prisoners.
When I heard that this delay was unavoidable, I went to the General
and returned my passport, telling him I should want another, when the
vessel was ready to sail, as I intended to proceed in it as far as San
Blas. He consented to give me one, and then joked with me about the
{235} honor, I should enjoy, of accompanying Gen. Solis. I replied in
the same strain, and left him.
Captain William H. Hinkley and myself went to the mission of San
Carlos, where we spent three days.[126] During the whole time, we did
little beside express our astonishment at what we saw. We had fallen
upon the festival days of some saint, and the services performed in
his honor all passed under our eyes. They were not a few, nor wanting
in variety, as this was a noted festival. Our admiration, however, was
principally excited by the contest between grizzly bears and bulls,
which constitutes one of the exhibitions of these people.
Five large grey bears had been caught, and fastened in a pen built
for the purpose of confining the bulls, during a bullbaiting. One of
the latter animals, held by ropes, was brought to the spot by men on
horseback, and thrown down. A bear was then drawn up to him, and they
were fastened together by a rope about fifteen feet in length, in such
a manner, that they could not separate from each other. One end of it
is tied around one of the forefeet of the bull, and the other around
one of the hind feet of the bear. The two were then left to spring
upon their feet. As soon as this movement is made, the bull makes at
the bear, very often deciding the fate of the ferocious animal in this
first act. If the bull fails in goring the bear, the fierce animal
seizes him and tears him to death. Fourteen of the latter lost their
lives, before the five bears were destroyed. To Captain Hinkley this
was a sight of novel and absorbing interest. It had less of novelty for
me, as since I had been on the coast, I had often seen similar combats,
and in fact worse, having been present when men entered the enclosure
to encounter the powerful bull in his wild and untamed fierceness.
These unfortunate persons are armed with a small sword, with which they
sometimes succeed in saving their own lives at the expense of that of
the animal.
I once saw the man fall in one of these horrible shows; they are
conducted in the following manner: the man enters to the bull with the
weapon, of which he avails himself, in the right {236} hand, and in the
left a small red flag, fastened to a staff about three feet in length.
He whistles, or makes some other noise, to attract the attention of
the animal, upon hearing which the bull comes towards him with the
speed of fury. The man stands firm, with the flag dangling before him,
to receive this terrible onset. When the bull makes the last spring
towards him, he dexterously evades it, by throwing his body from behind
the flag to one side, at the same time thrusting his sword into the
animal's side. If this blow is properly directed, blood gushes from the
mouth and nostrils of the bull, and he falls dead. A second blow in
this case is seldom required.
Another mode of killing these animals is by men on horseback, with a
spear, which they dart into his neck, immediately behind the horns. The
horse is often killed by the bull. When the animal chances to prefer
running from the fight to engaging in it, he is killed by the horseman,
by being thrown heels over head. This is accomplished by catching hold
of the tail of the bull in the full speed of pursuit, and giving a turn
around the head of the saddle, in such a manner, that they are enabled
to throw the animal into any posture they choose.[127]
After we returned to the fort, it took us some time to relate what we
had seen, to the consul. Feeling it necessary to do something towards
supporting myself, during the remaining time of my stay in this part of
the country, I took my rifle, and joined a Portuguese in the attempt
to kill otters along the coast. We hunted up and down the coast, a
distance of forty miles, killing sixteen otters in ten days. We sold
their skins, some as high as seventy-five dollars, and none under
twenty-five. Three hundred dollars fell to my share from the avails of
our trip. Captain Cooper was exceedingly desirous to purchase my rifle,
now that I should not be likely to make use of it, as I was soon to
proceed on my journey to the city of Mexico. I presented it to him, for
I could not think of bartering for money, what I regarded, as a tried
friend, that had afforded me the means of subsistence and protection
for so long a time. My {237} conscience would have reproached me, as
though I had been guilty of an act of ingratitude.
The period of my departure from this coast was now close at hand,
and my thoughts naturally took a retrospect of the whole time, I had
spent upon it. The misery and suffering of various kinds, that I had
endured in some portions of it, had not been able to prevent me from
feeling, and acknowledging, that this country is more calculated to
charm the eye, than any one I have ever seen. Those, who traverse
it, if they have any capability whatever of perceiving, and admiring
the beautiful and sublime in scenery, must be constantly excited to
wonder and praise. It is no less remarkable for uniting the advantages
of healthfulness, a good soil, a temperate climate, and yet one of
exceeding mildness, a happy mixture of level and elevated ground, and
vicinity to the sea. Its inhabitants are equally calculated to excite
dislike, and even the stronger feelings of disgust and hatred. The
priests are omnipotent, and all things are subject to their power. Two
thirds of the population are native Indians under the immediate charge
of these spiritual rulers in the numerous missions. It is a well known
fact, that nothing is more entirely opposite to the nature of a savage,
than labor. In order to keep them at their daily tasks, the most rigid
and unremitting supervision is exercised. No bondage can be more
complete, than that under which they live. The compulsion laid upon
them has, however, led them at times to rebel, and endeavor to escape
from their yoke. They have seized upon arms, murdered the priests, and
destroyed the buildings of the missions, by preconcerted stratagem, in
several instances. When their work of destruction and retribution was
accomplished, they fled to the mountains, and subsisted on the flesh of
wild horses which are there found in innumerable droves. To prevent
the recurrence of similar events, the priests have passed laws,
prohibiting an Indian the use or possession of any weapon whatever,
under the penalty of a severe punishment.
On the 25th I addressed the companions of my former journeyings and
imprisonment in San Diego by letter. They had {238} remained in the
town of Angels, during the months which had elapsed since my separation
from them, after our receiving liberty upon parole. I had kept up a
constant correspondence with them in this interval. My objects at
present were to inform them of my proposed departure for my native
country, and request them, if they should be called upon so to do, to
state every thing relative to our imprisonment and loss of property,
exactly as it took place. I closed, by telling them, they might expect
a letter from me upon my arrival in the city of Mexico.[128]
On the 8th of May I applied for my passport, which was readily given
me, and taking leave of the General and my friends, I entered the
vessel, in which I was to proceed to San Blas, at 8 o'clock in the
morning. The sails of the brig, which was called the Volunteer, were
soon set, and speeding us upon our way. The green water turned white,
as it met the advance of our prow, and behind us we left a smooth
belt of water, affording a singular contrast to the waves around. I
watched the disappearance of this single smooth spot, as it was lost
in the surrounding billows, when the influence of the movement of
our vessel ceased, as a spectacle to be contemplated by a land's man
with interest. But no feeling of gratification operated in the minds
of the poor prisoners in the hold. They were ironed separately, and
then all fastened to a long bar of iron. They were soon heard mingling
prayers and groans, interrupted only by the violent vomiting produced
by sea sickness. In addition to this misery, when fear found entrance
into their thoughts during the intervals of the cessation of extreme
sickness, it seemed to them, as if every surge the vessel made must be
its last. In this miserable condition they remained, until the 19th,
when we arrived at San Blas. The prisoners here were delivered into the
charge of the commanding officer of the place.
Captain Hinkley, his mate, Henry Vinal, and myself disembarked at
this place, in order to commence our journey over land to Mexico. The
necessary arrangements for our undertaking occupied us three days. We
found the season warm on our arrival here. Watermelons were abundant,
and also green {239} corn, and a great variety of ripe fruit. Two crops
of corn and wheat are raised in the year. A precipice was shown me,
over which, I was told, the Mexicans threw three old priests at the
commencement of the revolt against the king of Spain.--This port is
the centre of considerable business in the seasons of spring and fall.
During the summer, the inhabitants are compelled to leave it, as the
air becomes infected by the exhalations, arising from the surrounding
swamps. Myriads of musquitos and other small insects fill the air
at the same time, uniting with the former cause to render the place
uninhabitable.
Great quantities of salt are made upon the flats in the vicinity of
San Blas. I did not inform myself accurately, with regard to the
manner, in which it is made; but as I was passing by one day, where
the preparation of it was carried on, I observed what struck me as
being both curious and novel. The earth was laid off in square beds.
Around their edges dirt was heaped up, as though the bed, which I have
mentioned, was intended to be covered with water.
We began our journey well armed, as we had been informed that we
should, in all probability, find abundant occasion to use our arms, as
we advanced. Our progress was slow, as we conformed to the directions
given us, and kept a constant look out for robbers, of whom there are
said to be thousands upon this route.
On the 25th we reached a small town called Tipi, where we remained one
day to rest from our fatigue, and then set off again for Guadalaxara,
distant eight days' journey. Our path led us through a beautiful
country, a great portion of which was under cultivation. Occasionally
we passed through small villages. Beggars were to be seen standing at
the corners of all the streets, and along the highways. They take a
station by the road side, having a dog or child by them, to lead them
into the road when they see a traveller approaching. They stand until
the person reaches the spot upon which they are, when they ask alms
for the sake of a saint, whose image is worn suspended around their
neck, or tied around the wrist. {240} This circumstance of begging for
the saint, and not for themselves, struck me as a new expedient in the
art of begging. At first we gave a trifle to the poor saint. As we
went on we found them so numerous that it became necessary for us to
husband our alms, and we finally came to the conclusion that the large
brotherhood of beggars could occasionally diversify their mode of life
by a dexterous management of their fingers, and shut our purses to the
demands of the saints. The country for some time before we drew near
Guadalaxara, was rather barren, although its immediate vicinity is
delightful.
We reached that city on the 2d of June, and spent three days in it. It
is situated upon a fine plain, which is overspread by the same numbers
of domestic animals that I had seen in New Mexico and California.
The city is walled in, with gates at the different entrances. These
gates are strongly guarded, and no one is allowed to enter them until
they have been searched, in order to ascertain if they carry any
smuggled goods about them. The same precaution is used when any one
passes out of the city. A passport must be shown for the person, his
horse, and arms, and a statement from the principal peace officer,
of the number of trunks with which he set out upon his journey, and
their contents. This caution is to prevent smuggling; but it does not
effect the purpose, as there is more contraband trade here, than in
any place I was ever in before. I was not able to ascertain the number
of inhabitants of this city. The silver mines of Guanaxuato are near
Guadalaxara. They are carried on at present by an English company. The
evening before our departure we went to the theatre. The actresses
appeared young and beautiful, and danced and sung charmingly.
The 5th day of June we resumed our journey to the city of Mexico. Again
we travelled through a charming country, tolerably thickly settled. On
our way we fell in company with an officer belonging to the service
of the country. He had ten soldiers with him. Upon his demanding to
see our passports we showed them to him, though he had no authority
to make {241} such a demand. After he had finished their perusal he
returned them with such an indifferent air, that I could not resist an
inclination to ask him some questions that might perhaps have seemed
rude. I first asked him what post he filled in the army? He answered,
with great civility, he was first lieutenant. I then requested to
know, to what part of the country he was travelling? He said, still
in a very civil manner, that he had had the command of some troops
in Guanaxuato, but was now on his way to the city of Mexico, to take
charge of the 6th regiment, which was ordered to the province of
Texas, to find out among the Americans there, those who had refused
obedience to the Mexican laws. He added, that when he succeeded in
finding them, he would soon learn them to behave well. The last remark
was made in rather a contemptuous tone of voice, and with something
like an implied insult to me. This warmed my blood, and I replied in
a tone not so gentle as prudence might have counselled a stranger in
a foreign land to have adopted, that if himself and his men did not
conduct themselves properly when they were among the Americans, the
latter would soon despatch them to another country, which they had not
yet seen; as the Americans were not Mexicans, to stand at the corner of
a house, and hide their guns behind the side of it, while they looked
another way, and pulled the trigger. At this he flew into a passion. I
did not try to irritate him any further, and he rode on and left us.
We pursued our way slowly, and stopped for the night at Aguabuena, a
small town on the way. We put up at a house, a sort of posada, built
for lodging travellers.--Twenty-five cents is the price for the use of
a room for one night. It is seldom that any person is found about such
an establishment to take charge of it but an old key bearer. Provisions
must be sought elsewhere. It is not often necessary to go further
than the street, where, at any hour in the day until ten o'clock at
night, men and women are engaged in crying different kinds of eatables.
We generally purchased our food of them. After we had finished our
supper two English gentlemen entered, who were on their way to the
city of Mexico. {242} We concluded to travel together, as our point
of destination was the same, and we should be more able to resist any
adversaries we might encounter; this country being, as I have before
mentioned, infested with robbers and thieves, although we had not yet
fallen in with any.
These gentlemen informed us that the greatest catholic festival of the
whole year was close at hand. If we could reach the city of Mexico
before its celebration, we should see something that would repay us for
hastening our journey. As we were desirous to lose the sight of nothing
curious, we proceeded as fast as circumstances would permit, and
reached the city on the 10th, late in the evening, and put up at an inn
kept by an Englishman, although, as in the other towns in which we had
been, we were obliged to seek food elsewhere, the only accommodation
at the inn being beds to sleep in, and liquors to drink. We found
supper in a coffee house.
We were awakened early in the morning by the ringing of bells. As we
stepped into the street we met three biers carried by some men guarded
by soldiers. Blood was dropping from each bier. The bearers begged
money to pay the expenses of burying the bodies. I afterwards learned
that these persons were murdered on the night of our arrival, upon
the Alameda, a promenade north of the city, in one of the suburbs. We
visited this place, and found it covered with thousands of people, some
walking, and others sitting on the seats placed around this public
pleasure ground. Small parties are sheltered from view by thickets of
a growth, like that in our country, used for hedges. The open surface
is surrounded by a hedge of the same shrub. These partially concealed
parties are usually composed of men and women of the lowest orders,
engaged in card playing. Such are to be seen at any hour of the day,
occupied in a way which is most likely to terminate the meeting in an
affray, and perhaps murder. Blood is frequently shed, and I judged from
what I saw of the order of things, that the accounts of the numerous
assassinations committed among this populace, were not exaggerated.
One of the characteristics of this people {243} is jealousy.
Notwithstanding the danger really to be apprehended from visiting this
place after certain hours, my two companions and myself spent several
evenings in it without being molested in the slightest degree. But one
evening as we were returning to our lodgings, we were compelled to
kneel with our white pantaloons upon the dirty street, while the host
was passing. We took care afterwards to step into a house in time to
avoid the troublesome necessity.