who had come upon the coast to smuggle, and to kill sea otters for
their skins, which are very valuable.[104] He was now here secretly,
to enquire if sea otters were to be found in {209} abundance higher up
the coast; and to obtain information on some other points connected
with his pursuits. He told us he had a boat distant eighty miles down
the coast, with men in search of otters, and proposed that we should
accompany him to it, offering to furnish every thing required for this
species of hunting, and give us half of whatever we caught, adding,
that when his brig returned from the Gallipagos islands, where it had
gone in search of tortoise shell, he would give us a free passage to
our own country.
We all considered this an offer advantageous to us, as it held out the
prospect of our being enabled to obtain something in the way of gain,
after which a way would be open for our return to our homes, and we
agreed to meet him on a certain day at _Todos Santos_, in English All
Saints. This took place on the 24th. Our new friend set off to rejoin
his companions, and we fell to consultation upon the best method of
conducting in our present circumstances. We did not wish to do any
thing, that would render us amenable to the laws of the country, should
we be detected in our attempt to escape. We were consequently precluded
from relying on horses to aid us in hastening beyond the reach of
pursuers. The night was chosen, as the time for our experiment; but
in the course of an hour after this determination was made, all my
companions excepting one, receded from it, pronouncing the plan of
running off without any cover for our intentions, not a good one. They
proposed instead of it, that we should ask permission of the General to
go a hunting, assigning as our reason for this request, that we were
barefoot, and wanted to kill some deer in order to obtain their skins
to dress, to make us moccasins. I consented to this plan, and to try
its efficacy immediately, I went to the General's office. It was late,
but I related my errand. He asked me, where I could get arms, to kill
deer with? I replied, that if he would not allow us to use our own
arms, we could borrow some. He refused the permission, I had asked of
him.
On Christmas night, the one among my companions, whom I {210} have
mentioned, as agreeing with me, in regard to the original plan for
our escape, set off with me at 12 o'clock, while the people, who were
all Catholics, were engaged in their devotions at church. We were
obliged to leave our comrades, as they would not accompany us in our
enterprise. We travelled entirely by night, and reached the before
mentioned place of rendezvous on the 28th. We found Mr. Lang and his
men in confinement, and his boat taken by the Spaniards. We gained this
information in the night, without committing ourselves. We retreated
to the woods, in which we remained concealed through the day. At night
our necessities compelled us to enter a house, in order to obtain some
food. It was occupied by a widow and her two daughters. They gave us
bread, milk and cheese, treating us with great kindness. We spent a
week passing the day in the woods, and going to this friendly house
to get food in the night; in the hope of hearing of some vessel, by
means of which we might escape from this hated coast. But no such good
fortune awaited us.
We then concluded to return, and see our comrades, whom we supposed
to be again in prison; although we were determined never again to be
confined there ourselves alive, with our own consent. So we walked
back to San Diego, killing some deer by the way, the skins of which
we carried to the fort. To our great admiration and surprize, we
found our companions at liberty. They informed us, that the General
was exceedingly anxious for my return, and that our arms had not been
demanded, although the officer, through whose means we obtained them,
had been placed under guard.
I felt grieved by the latter part of this information, as I had
deceived the unfortunate man, when he intended to do me a kindness,
of the utmost importance to my interests, as I viewed it. He would
probably, be severely punished. But I nevertheless was firm in my
purpose to retain my arms. It was late in the day; but the companion
of my flight and myself proceeded to present ourselves before the
General, leaving our rifles concealed in a safe place. Our pistols
we carried in our {211} bosoms, determined not to be taken to prison
without offering resistance.
The General appeared much surprised to see us, and asked where we had
been? I told him, that we had been out upon a hunting expedition; upon
which he wished to know if we had killed any thing? We answered in the
affirmative. He then looked serious, and demanded of me, if I was not
aware that it was wrong to go off, without taking leave of him? My
reply was, that I did; and that he refused it to me; and that then I
concluded to go without permission, knowing it could not be a crime.
His next question was, how I obtained my arms? I told him the truth
with regard to this point. The succeeding demand was, why I did not
return them, according to my promise? To which I replied, that I did
not intend to return them from the first; and I now declared that they
should never be taken from me for the time to come, while I drew my
breath. He smiled, and said he did not want them; but that I must begin
to vaccinate the people of the garrison; for that he wished me to go up
the coast soon to practice vaccination there.
On the 18th of January, 1829, I began to vaccinate; and by the 16th
of February had vaccinated all the people belonging to the fort, and
the Indian inhabitants of the mission of San Diego, three miles north
of the former place.[105] It is situated in a valley between two
mountains. A stream runs through the valley, from which ships obtain
fresh water. An abundance of grain is raised at this mission. Fruit
of all kinds, growing in a temperate climate, is also plentiful. The
climate is delightfully equal. The husbandman here does not think of
his fields being moistened by the falling rain. He digs ditches around
them, in which water is conveyed from a stream, sufficient to cover the
ground, whenever the moisture is required. Rains seldom fall in the
summer or autumn. The rainy season commences in October; and continues
until the last of December, and sometimes even through January; by
which time the grass, clover and wild oats are knee high. When the rain
does come, it falls in torrents. The gullies made in the sides of the
mountains by the rains are of an enormous size.
{212} But to return to my own affairs. Having completed my vaccinations
in this quarter, and procured a sufficient quantity of the vaccine
matter to answer my purpose, I declared myself in readiness to proceed
further. I communicated the matter to one thousand Spaniards and
Indians in San Diego.
February 28th, the General gave us each a legal form, granting us
liberty on parole for one year, at the expiration of which period it
was in his power to remand us to prison, if he did not incline to grant
us our freedom. He likewise gave me a letter to the priests along the
coast, containing the information that I was to vaccinate all the
inhabitants upon the coast, and an order providing for me all necessary
supplies of food and horses for my journey. These were to be furnished
me by the people, among whom I found myself cast. They were, also,
directed to treat me with respect, and indemnify me for my services,
as far as they thought proper. The latter charge did not strike me
agreeably; for I foresaw, that upon such conditions my services would
not be worth one cent to me. However, the prospect of one whole year's
liberty was so delightful, that I concluded to trust in Providence, and
the generosity of the stranger, and think no more of the matter. With
these feelings I set forth to the next mission, at which I had already
been. It was called San Luis.[106]
I reached it in the evening. I found an old priest, who seemed glad
to see me. I gave him the General's letter. After he had read it, he
said, with regard to that part of it which spoke of payment, that I
had better take certificates from the priests of each mission, as I
advanced up the coast, stating that I had vaccinated their inhabitants;
and that when I arrived at the upper mission, where one of the high
dignitaries of the church resided, I should receive my recompense for
the whole. Seeing nothing at all singular in this advice, I concluded
to adopt it.
In the morning I entered on the performance of my duty. My subjects
were Indians, the missions being entirely composed of them, with the
exception of the priests, who are the rulers. {213} The number of
natives in this mission was three thousand, nine hundred and four. I
took the old priest's certificate, as had been recommended by him,
when I had completed my task. This is said to be the largest, most
flourishing, and every way the most important mission on the coast.
For its consumption fifty beeves are killed weekly. The hides and
tallow are sold to ships for goods, and other articles for the use of
the Indians, who are better dressed in general, than the Spaniards.
All the income of the mission is placed in the hands of the priests,
who give out clothing and food, according as it is required. They are
also self constituted guardians of the female part of the mission,
shutting up under lock and key, one hour after supper, all those, whose
husbands are absent, and all young women and girls above nine years of
age. During the day, they are entrusted to the care of the matrons.
Notwithstanding this, all the precautions taken by the vigilant
fathers of the church are found insufficient. I saw women in irons for
misconduct, and men in the stocks. The former are expected to remain
a widow six months after the death of a husband, after which period
they may marry again. The priests appoint officers to superintend the
natives, while they are at work, from among themselves. They are called
_alcaides_, and are very rigid in exacting the performance of the
allotted tasks, applying the rod to those who fall short of the portion
of labor assigned them. They are taught in the different trades; some
of them being blacksmiths, others carpenters and shoe-makers. Those,
trained to the knowledge of music, both vocal and instrumental, are
intended for the service of the church. The women and girls sew, knit,
and spin wool upon a large wheel, which is woven into blankets by
the men. The alcaides, after finishing the business of the day, give
an account of it to the priest, and then kiss his hand, before they
withdraw to their wigwams, to pass the night. This mission is composed
of parts of five different tribes, who speak different languages.
The greater part of these Indians were brought from their native
mountains against their own inclinations, and by compulsion; {214} and
then baptised; which act was as little voluntary on their part, as the
former had been. After these preliminaries, they had been put to work,
as converted Indians.
The next mission on my way was that, called St. John the Baptist.[107]
The mountains here approach so near the ocean, as to leave only room
enough for the location of the mission. The waves dash upon the shore
immediately in front of it. The priest, who presides over this mission,
was in the habit of indulging his love of wine and stronger liquors
to such a degree, as to be often intoxicated. The church had been
shattered by an earthquake. Between twenty and thirty of the Indians,
men, women and children, had been suddenly destroyed by the falling of
the church bells upon them. After communicating the vaccine matter to
600 natives, I left this place, where mountains rose behind to shelter
it; and the sea stretched out its boundless expanse before it.
Continuing my route I reached my next point of destination. This
establishment was called the mission of St. Gabriel. Here I vaccinated
960 individuals. The course from the mission of St. John the Baptist
to this place led me from the sea-shore, a distance of from eighteen
to twenty miles. Those, who selected the position of this mission,
followed the receding mountains. It extends from their foot, having
in front a large tract of country showing small barren hills, and yet
affording pasturage for herds of cattle so numerous, that their number
is unknown even to the all surveying and systematic priests. In this
species of riches St. Gabriel exceeds all the other establishments on
the coast. The sides of the mountains here are covered with a growth of
live oak and pine. The chain to which these mountains belong, extends
along the whole length of the coast. The fort St. Peter stands on the
sea coast, parallel to this mission.
My next advance was to a small town, inhabited by Spaniards, called
the town of The Angels.[108] The houses have flat roofs, covered with
bituminous pitch, brought from a place within four miles of the town,
where this article boils up from the earth. As the liquid rises,
hollow bubbles like a shell of a {215} large size, are formed. When
they burst, the noise is heard distinctly in the town. The material is
obtained by breaking off portions, that have become hard, with an axe,
or something of the kind. The large pieces thus separated, are laid on
the roof, previously covered with earth, through which the pitch cannot
penetrate, when it is rendered liquid again by the heat of the sun. In
this place I vaccinated 2,500 persons.
From this place I went to the mission of St. Ferdinand, where I
communicated the matter to 967 subjects. St. Ferdinand is thirty miles
east of the coast, and a fine place in point of position.[109]
The mission of St. Buenaventura succeeded.[110] Not long previous to
my arrival here, two priests had eloped from the establishment, taking
with them what gold and silver they could lay their hands upon. They
chose an American vessel, in which to make their escape. I practised my
new calling upon 1000 persons in this mission.
The next point I reached was the fort of St. Barbara.[111] I found
several vessels lying here. I went on board of them, and spent some
pleasant evenings in company with the commanders. I enjoyed the
contrast of such society with that of the priests and Indians, among
whom I had lately been. This place has a garrison of fifty or sixty
soldiers. The mission lies a half a mile N. W. of the fort. It is
situated on the summit of a hill, and affords a fine view of the great
deep. Many are the hours I passed during this long and lonely journey,
through a country every way strange and foreign to me, in looking on
the ceaseless motion of its waves. The great Leviathan too played
therein. I have often watched him, as he threw spouts of water into the
air, and moved his huge body through the liquid surface. My subjects
here amounted to 2600. They were principally Indians.
The next mission on my route was that called St. Enos.[112] I
vaccinated 900 of its inhabitants, and proceeded to St. Cruz,[113]
where I operated upon 650. My next advance was to St. Luis
Obispes.[114] Here I found 800 subjects. The mission of St. Michael
followed in order. In it I vaccinated 1850 persons.[115] {216} My next
theatre of operations was at St. John Bapistrano.[116] 900 was the
number that received vaccination here. Thence I went to La Solada, and
vaccinated 1685, and then proceeded to St. Carlos, and communicated the
matter to 800.[117]
From the latter mission I passed on to the fort of Monte El Rey,
where is a garrison of a hundred soldiers.[118] I found here 500
persons to vaccinate. The name of this place in English signifies the
King's mount or hill. Forests spread around Monte El Rey for miles in
all directions, composed of thick clusters of pines and live oaks.
Numberless grey bears find their home, and range in these deep woods.
They are frequently known to attack men. The Spaniards take great
numbers of them by stratagem, killing an old horse in the neighborhood
of their places of resort. They erect a scaffold near the dead animal,
upon which they place themselves during the night, armed with a gun or
lance. When the bear approaches to eat, they either shoot it, or pierce
it with the lance from their elevated position. Notwithstanding all
their precautions, however, they are sometimes caught by the wounded
animal; and after a man has once wrestled with a bear, he will not be
likely to desire to make a second trial of the same gymnastic exercise.
Such, at any rate, is the opinion I have heard those express, who have
had the good fortune to come off alive from a contest of this kind. I
do not speak for myself in this matter, as I never came so near as to
take the _close hug_ with one in my life; though to escape it, I once
came near breaking my neck down a precipice.
From Monte El Rey I advanced to the mission of St. Anthony, which
lies thirty miles E. from the coast.[119] In it I found one thousand
persons to inoculate. I had now reached the region of small pox,
several cases of it having occurred in this mission. The ruling priest
of this establishment informed me, that he did not consider it either
necessary or advisable for me to proceed farther for the purpose of
inoculating the inhabitants of the country, as the small pox had
prevailed universally through its whole remaining extent. As I had
heard, while in {217} San Diego, great numbers had been carried off by
it. I then told him that I wished to see the church officer who had
been described to me by the first priest whom I had seen on my way
up the coast. He furnished me a horse, and I set off for the port of
San Francisco, vaccinating those whom I found on the way who had not
had the small pox. I reached the above mentioned place,[120] on the
twentieth of June, 1829. Finding the person of whom I was in search, I
presented him all the certificates of the priests of the missions in
which I had vaccinated, and the letter of the General. I had inoculated
in all twenty-two thousand persons. After he had finished the perusal
of these papers, he asked me, what I thought my services were worth? I
replied, that I should leave that point entirely in his judgment and
decision. He then remarked, that he must have some time to reflect upon
the subject, and that I must spend a week or two with him. I consented
willingly to this proposal, as I was desirous of crossing the bay of
San Francisco to the Russian settlement, called the Bodego.[121]
I proceeded to carry my wish into execution on the 23rd, accompanied
by two Coriac Indians, whose occupation was the killing of sea otters
for the Russians, who hire them into their service. Those who pursue
this employment, have water crafts made of the sea lions' skins, in
the shape of a canoe. Over this spreads a top, completely covered in
such a manner as to preclude the possibility of the entrance of any
water. An opening is left at the bow and stern, over which the person
who has entered draws a covering of the same material with that of
the boat, which fastens firmly over the aperture in such a manner, as
to make this part entirely water proof, as any other portion of the
boat. Two persons generally occupy it. No position can be more secure
than theirs, from all the dangers of the sea. The waves dash over them
harmless. The occupants are stationed, one at the bow, and the other at
the stern; the latter guides the boat, while the other is provided with
a {218} spear, which he darts into the otter whenever he comes within
its reach. Great numbers are thus taken.
But to return to myself: We crossed the bay, which is about three miles
in width. It is made by the entrance of a considerable river, called
by the Spaniards Rio de San Francisco. After we reached the north
shore, we travelled through a beautiful country, with a rich soil,
well watered and timbered, and reached the Russian settlement in the
night, having come a distance of thirty miles. As our journey had been
made on foot, and we had eaten nothing, I was exceedingly fatigued
and hungry. I accompanied my fellow travellers, who belonged here, to
their wigwams, where I obtained some food, and a seal skin to sleep
upon. Early in the morning I arose, and learning from one of my late
companions where was the dwelling of the commander of the place, I
proceeded towards it. I had become acquainted with this person while I
was vaccinating the inhabitants of San Diego. He came there in a brig,
and insisted upon my promising him that I would come and communicate
the remedy to the people of his establishments, offering to recompense
me for my services. I agreed to do what he wished, should it be in my
power. Accordingly, finding that the Spaniard did not intend to keep a
strict guard over my movements, I availed myself of this opportunity
of fulfilling the expressed wish of Don Seraldo, for so was he called.
I reached the place pointed out to me by the friendly Indian, and was
received by the above mentioned gentleman with the warmest expressions
of kindness and friendship. He said that so long a time had elapsed
since he saw me, he was afraid I had forgotten our conversation
together, and that circumstances had rendered my coming to him
impossible. He had suffered greatly from the fear that the small pox
would spread among his people, before he should be enabled to prevent
danger from it, through the means of the kine pox.
After breakfast, he circulated an order among the people, for all
who wished to be provided with a safe guard against the terrible
malady that had approached them so near, to come to {219} his door.
In a few hours I began my operations; and continued to be constantly
occupied for three days, vaccinating during this period fifteen hundred
individuals. I reminded them all that they must return on the fourth
day, provided no signs of the complaint appeared; and that they were
not to rub, or roughly touch the spot, should the vaccine matter have
proper effect.
This done, Don Seraldo offered to accompany me through the fort and
around the settlement, in order to show me the position, and every
thing which might be new and interesting to me. Its situation is one
of the most beautiful that I ever beheld, or that the imagination can
conceive. The fort stands on the brow of a handsome hill, about two
hundred feet above the level of the sea. This hill is surrounded on
all sides for two miles with a charming plain. A lofty mountain whose
sides present the noblest depth of forest, raises a summit, glittering
with perpetual ice and snow on one hand, and on the other the level
surface is lost in the waves of the sea. Clear cold streams pour down
the mountain, unceasingly from different points, and glide through the
plain, imparting moisture and verdure. The same multitudes of domestic
animals, that are every where seen in this country, graze around in
the pastures. They find abundant pasturage in the wild oats, which
grow spontaneously upon this coast. Very little attention is paid to
cultivation, where so many advantages are united to favor it. The
amount of produce of any kind raised is small, and the inhabitants
depend for bread entirely upon the Spaniards.
I remained in this delightful place one week. At the expiration of
this time Don Seraldo gave me one hundred dollars, as payment for my
services, and then mounted me upon a horse and conducted me back to the
bay himself, and remained on the shore, until he saw me safe upon the
other side.
I soon saw myself again in the presence of the Spanish priest, from
whom I was to receive my recompense for the services performed on my
long tour. He was not aware where I had been, until I informed him.
When I had told him, he asked {220} me what Don Seraldo had paid me?
I stated this matter as it was. He then demanded of me, how I liked
the coast of California? I answered, that I very much admired the
appearance of the country. His next question was, how I would like the
idea of living in it? It would be agreeable to me, I returned, were it
subject to any other form of government. He proceeded to question me
upon the ground of my objections to the present form of government? I
was careful not to satisfy him on this point.
He then handed me a written piece of paper, the translation of which is
as follows:
I certify, that James O. Pattie has vaccinated all the Indians
and whites on this coast, and to recompense him for the same, I
give the said James O. Pattie my obligation for one thousand head
of cattle, and land to pasture them; that is, 500 cows and 500
mules. This he is to receive after he becomes a Catholic, and a
subject of this government. Given in the mission of St. Francisco
on the 8th of July, in the year 1829.
JOHN CABORTES