my father's admirable salve to my two severe wounds, {118} and to my
companion's slight wound in the arm, and we both felt able to join our
companions in their march. We travelled all this day and the following
night a west course, and the following day, without stopping longer
than was necessary to take a little food. After this we stopped and
rested ourselves and horses all night. I need not attempt to describe
the bitter anguish I endured, during this long and uninterrupted ride.
It will be only necessary to conceive my situation to form a right
conception of it. Our grand object had been to avoid another contest
with the Muscallaros. In the evening we fell in with a party of the
Nabahoes, who were now out on an expedition against the Muscallaros,
who had recently killed one of their people, and against whom they
had sworn immediate revenge. We showed the manifest proof of the
chastisement they had received from us. Never had I seen such frantic
leaps and gestures of joy. The screams and yells of exultation were
such as cannot be imagined. It seemed as though a whole bedlam had
broke loose. When we told them that we had lost but one man, their
screams became more frantic still. Their medicine man was then called,
and he produced an emollient poultice, the materials of which I did
not know but the effect was that the anguish of our wounds was at once
assuaged. By the application of this same remedy, my wounds were quite
healed in a fortnight.
The scalps, which some of our number had taken from the Muscallaros,
were soon erected on a pole by the Nabahoes. They immediately commenced
the fiercest dancing and singing I had yet seen, which continued
without interruption three days and nights. During all this time, we
endured a sort of worship from them, particularly the women. They
were constantly presenting us with their favorite dishes, served in
different ways, with dried berries and sweet vegetables, some of which,
to people in our condition, were really agreeable.
In size and complexion these people resemble the Muscallaros, and their
bows and arrows are similar; though some of the latter have fire arms,
and their dress is much superior.--{119} Part of their dress is of
the same kind with that of the former, though the skins are dressed
in a more workmanlike manner, and they have plenty of blankets of
their own manufacturing, and constituting a much better article than
that produced by the Spaniards. They dye the wool of different and
bright colors, and stripe them with very neat figures. The women are
much handsomer, and have lighter complexions than the men. They are
rather small in stature, and modest and reserved in their behaviour.
Their dress is chiefly composed of skins made up with no small share
of taste; and showily corded at the bottom, forming a kind of belt of
beads and porcupine quills.--They are altogether the handsomest women
I have seen among the red people, and not inferior in appearance to
many Spanish women. Their deportment to our people, was a mixture of
kindness and respect.
On the 21st, we started back to the river, accompanied by the whole
party of Nabahoes, who assured us that they would guard us during the
remainder of our hunt. We returned to the river through a beautiful
and level country, most of it well timbered and watered. On our
return we killed several bears, the talons of which the Indians took
for necklaces. On the 26th, we arrived at our battle ground. The
view of the bodies of the slain, all torn in pieces by wild beasts,
inexpressibly disgusting to us, was equally a spectacle of pleasure to
our red friends. We pointed out the grave of our companion. They all
walked in solemn procession round it, singing their funeral songs. As
they left it, every one left a present on the grave; some an arrow,
others meat, moccasins, tobacco, war-feathers, and the like, all
articles of value to them. These simple people believe that the spirit
of the deceased will have immediate use for them in the life to come.
Viewing their offerings in this light, we could not but be affected
with these testimonies of kind feeling to a dead stranger. They then
gathered up the remains of their slaughtered enemies, threw them in
a heap, and cut a great quantity of wood, which they piled over the
remains. They then set fire to the wood. We struck our tents, {120}
marched about five miles up the river, set our traps, and encamped for
the night. But the Nabahoes danced and yelled through the night to so
much effect, as to keep all the beavers shut up in their houses, for,
having been recently trapped, they were exceedingly cautious.
On the morning of the 27th, we informed them why we had taken no
beavers, and during the following night they were perfectly quiet.
We marched onward slowly, trapping as we went, until we reached the
Spanish settlements on this river. On New Year's eve, January 1st,
1827, the Spaniards of the place gave a fandango, or Spanish ball.
All our company were invited to it, and went. We appeared before the
Alcalde, clad not unlike our Indian friends; that is to say, we were
dressed in deer skin, with leggins, moccasins and hunting shirts, all
of this article, with the addition of the customary Indian article
of dress around the loins, and this was of red cloth, not an article
of which had been washed since we left the Copper Mines. It may be
imagined that we did not cut a particular dandy-like figure, among
people, many of whom were rich, and would be considered well dressed
any where. Notwithstanding this, it is a strong proof of their
politeness, that we were civilly treated by the ladies, and had the
pleasure of dancing with the handsomest and richest of them. When the
ball broke up, it seemed to be expected of us, that we should each
escort a lady home, in whose company we passed the night, and we none
of us brought charges of severity against our fair companions.
The fandango room was about forty by eighteen or twenty feet, with a
brick floor raised four or five feet above the earth. That part of
the room in which the ladies sat, was carpetted with carpetting on
the benches, for them to sit on. Simple benches were provided for the
accommodation of the gentlemen. Four men sang to the music of a violin
and guitar. All that chose to dance stood up on the floor, and at the
striking up of a certain note of the music, they all commenced clapping
their hands. The ladies then advanced, one by one, and stood facing
their partners. The dance then changed to a waltz, each {121} man
taking his lady rather unceremoniously, and they began to whirl round,
keeping true, however, to the music, and increasing the swiftness of
their whirling. Many of the movements and figures seemed very easy,
though we found they required practise, for we must certainly have made
a most laughable appearance in their eyes, in attempting to practise
them. Be that as it may, we cut capers with the nimblest, and what we
could not say, we managed by squeezes of the hand, and little signs of
that sort, and passed the time to a charm.
The village, in which was this ball, is called Perdido, or the lost
town, probably from some circumstances in its history. It contains
about 500 souls and one church. The bishop was present at this ball,
and not only bestowed his worshipful countenance, but _danced before
the Lord, like David, with all his might_. The more general custom
of the ladies, as far as I observed, is to sit cross legged on the
floor like a tailor. They are considerably addicted to the industry
of spinning, but the mode has no resemblance to the spinning of our
country. For a wheel, they have a straight stick about a foot long,
rounded like the head of a spool. In the middle of the stick is a hole,
through which the stick is fastened. Their mode of spinning with this
very simple instrument reminded me strongly of the sport of my young
days, spinning a top, for they give this spinning affair a twirl, and
let it run on until it has lost its communicated motion to impart
it anew. This shift for a spinning wheel they call necataro. They
manufacture neither cotton nor wool into cloth, and depend altogether
on foreign trade for their clothing. The greatest part of this supply
comes over land from the United States. On the 2d, we started for San
Tepec, through a country generally barren, though abounding in water.
We saw plenty of bears, deer and antelope. Some of the first we killed,
because we needed their flesh, and others we killed for the same
reason that we were often obliged to kill Indians, that is, to mend
their rude manners, in fiercely making at us, and to show them that we
were not Spaniards, to give them the high sport of seeing us run. We
arrived in the above named town {122} on the 5th, and sold our furs.
Here I met again some of the companions who came with me in the first
instance from the United States. I enquired about others, whom I held
in kind remembrance. Some had died by lingering diseases, and others
by the fatal ball or arrow, so that out of 116 men, who came from the
United States in 1824, there were not more than sixteen alive. Most
of the fallen were as true men, and as brave as ever poised a rifle,
and yet in these remote and foreign deserts found not even the benefit
of a grave, but left their bodies to be torn by the wild beasts, or
mangled by the Indians. When I heard the sad roll of the dead called
over, and thought how often I had been in equal danger, I felt grateful
to my Almighty Benefactor, that I was alive and in health. A strong
perception of the danger of such courses as mine, as shown by the death
of these men, came over my mind, and I made a kind of resolution, that
I would return to my home, and never venture into the woods again.
Among the number of my fallen companions, I ought not to forget the
original leader of our company, Mr. Pratte, who died in his prime, of a
lingering disease, in this place.
On the 10th, I commenced descending the Del Norte for the Copper Mines,
in hopes once more to have the pleasure of embracing my father, and
relate to him what I had suffered in body and mind, for neglecting to
follow his wise and fatherly counsel. I now travelled slowly and by
myself, and on the 12th, arrived at the house of my old friend the
governor, who met me at his door, and gave me such an embrace, as to
start the blood from my scarcely healed wound. I did not perceive at
the moment, that his embrace had produced this effect, and entered the
house, where I met Jacova, who received me with a partial embrace, and
a manner of constrained politeness. She then sat down by me on the
sopha, and began asking me many questions about my adventure since
we had parted, often observing that I looked indisposed. At length
she discovered the blood oozing through my waistcoat. She exclaimed,
putting her hand on the wound, 'and good reason you have to look {123}
so, for you are wounded to death.' The look that accompanied this
remark, I may not describe, for I would not be thought vain, and the
stern character of my adventures forbids the intermixture of any thing
of an entirely different aspect. I was not long, however, in convincing
her that my wound was not really dangerous, and that I owed its present
bleeding to the friendship of her father, a cause too flattering to be
matter of regret. This drew from me a narrative of the occasion of my
wound, which I related in the same simple terms and brief manner in
which it is recorded in my journal. A long conversation of questions
and replies ensued, of a nature and on subjects not necessary to
relate. On the 20th, imploring God that we might meet again, we parted,
and I resumed my journey, travelling slowly for my father's residence
at the Copper Mines. I paused to rest and amuse myself in several of
the small towns on my way. On the 26th, I had the high satisfaction
once more to hold the hand of my father, and to find him in health and
prosperity, and apparently with nowise abated affection for me, though
I had rejected his counsels. This affection seemed to receive a warmer
glow, when he heard my determination not to take to the woods again.
I then in return wished to make myself acquainted with the true state
of his affairs. He had established a vacherie on the river Membry[92]
where he kept stock. He had also opened a farm on the land which the
old Appache chief had given him, which enabled him to raise grain for
the use of his own establishment at the mines. He had actually a supply
of grain in advance for the next year. He had made similar improvements
upon every thing appertaining to the mines. The result of the whole
seemed to be, that he was making money rapidly.
He still retained the Spaniard, of whom I have spoken before, as clerk
and superintendent, believing him to be a man of real stability and
weight of character, and placing the most entire reliance both upon his
capacity and integrity. I was less sanguine, and had my doubts, though
having seen no decided facts, {124} upon which to ground them, I did
not deem myself justified in honor to impart my doubts to my father.
On the 10th of February, my father requested me, on his account, to
take a trip to Alopaz, to purchase for his establishment some wine
and whiskey, which articles sell at the mines at a dollar and a half
a pint. I started with one servant and six pack mules, each having a
couple of small barrels fastened over their saddles, after the manner
of our panniers. On the 16th, I reached the place, and purchased my
cargo, but the weather was so inclement, that I thought it best not
to return until it softened. I became acquainted with an American,
married in this place. He was by pursuit a gunsmith, and had been up
the upper Missouri with Col. Henry,[93] and an old and noted trader
on that river. The mutual story of what we two had seen and suffered,
would probably appear incredible, and beyond the common order of
things, to most people, except those who have hunted and trapped in the
western parts of this continent, among the mountains and savages, and
has nothing upon which to depend, but his own firmness of heart, the
defence of his rifle, and the protection of the all present God. To
such persons, the incidents which we mutually related, would all seem
natural.
I remained here until the 1st of April. Spring in its peculiar splendor
and glory in this country, had now wakened the fields and forests
into life, and was extending its empire of verdure and flowers higher
and higher up the mountains towards their snowy peaks. On this day I
commenced my journey of return to the mines, with my servant and my
cargo bestowed on my mules. Though the face of the country was all
life and beauty, the roads so recently thawed, were exceedingly muddy
and heavy. One of my mules in consequence gave out the second day. My
servant packed the load of the tired mule upon his riding one, and
walked on foot the remainder of the day. During the day we discovered
fresh bear tracks in the wood, and my servant advised me to have my
gun loaded. At this remark I put my hand in my shot pouch, and found
but a single ball, and {125} no lead with which to make more. At this
discovery I saw at once the uselessness of self reproach of my own
carelessness and neglect, though it will be easily imagined, what
anxiety it created, aware that I had to travel through a long and
dreary wilderness, replenished with grizzly bears and hostile Indians.
Neither did I dare disclose a particle of what was passing in my mind
to my servant, through fear that he would be discouraged, in which
case, I knew his first step would be to turn back, and leave me to make
the journey alone. It would have been impossible for me to do this, as
we were both scarcely able to arrange the affairs of the journey. We
advanced cautiously and were unmolested through the day. But I passed a
most uncomfortable night through fear of the bears, which, thawed out,
were emerging from their winter dens with appetites rendered ravenous
by their long winter fast. We and our mules would have furnished them a
delicious feast, after the hunger of months. No sleep visited my eyes
that night.
At ten o'clock of the 3d, we met a Spaniard on horse back. I accosted
him in the usual terms, and asked if he had met any Indians on his way?
He answered that he had, and that there was a body of friendly Appaches
encamped near the road, at a distance of a little more than a league.
I was delighted with this information, for I supposed I should be able
to purchase a horse of them, on which I might mount my servant. While
I was reflecting on this thought, my servant proposed to purchase his
horse, and offered him a blanket in exchange. He instantly dismounted,
took the blanket, and handed over the horse. Happy to see the poor
fellow once more comfortably mounted, we bade the easy Spaniard adieu,
and gaily resumed our journey. In a short time, according to his
information, we saw the Indian camp near the road, from which their
smokes were visible. We were solicitous to pass them unobserved and
pushed on towards a stopping place, which we might reach at twelve
o'clock. Here we stopped to enable our horses to rest, and eat, for the
grass was fine. I ordered my servant to spancel the mules, and tether
the horse to a shrub by a long rope. {126} My gun reclined upon the
packs. We ate a little ourselves, and afterwards I spread my blanket on
the grass, close by the horses, and lay down to repose myself, though
not intending to go to sleep. But the bright beams of the sun fell upon
me in the midst of the green solitude, and I was soon in a profound
sleep. A large straw hat on the side of my face shaded my head from the
sun.
While enjoying this profound sleep, four of the Appaches came in
pursuit of us. It seems our Spaniard had stolen his horse from them, a
few hours before. They came upon us in possession of the horse, and
supposed me the thief. One of them rode close to me, and made a dart at
me with his spear. The stroke was aimed at my neck, and passed through
my hat, nailing it to the ground just back of my neck, which the cold
steel barely touched. It awakened me, and I sprang to my feet. Four
Indians on horse back were around me, and the spear, which had been
darted at me, still nailed my hat to the ground. I immediately seized
the spear and elevated it towards the Indian, who in turn made his
horse spring out of my reach. I called my servant, who had seen the
Indians approaching me, and had hidden himself in the bushes. I then
sprang to my gun, at the distance of ten or fifteen paces. When I had
reached and cocked it, I presented it at an Indian who was unsheathing
his fusil. As soon as he discovered my piece elevated, he threw himself
from his horse, fell on his knees, and called for mercy. What surprized
me, and arrested my fire, was to hear him call me by my Christian
name. I returned my rifle to my shoulder and asked him who he was?
He asked me, if I did not know Targuarcha? He smote his breast as he
asked the question. The name was familiar. The others dismounted, and
gathered round. An understanding ensued. When they learned the manner
in which we came by the horse, their countenances were expressive of
real sorrow. They had supposed me a Spaniard, as they said, and the
thief of their horse. They begged me not to be angry, with a laughable
solicitude, offering me the horse as the price of friendship. Above
all, they were {127} anxious that I should not relate the affair to my
father. They seemed to have an awe of him, resembling that due to the
Supreme Being. This awe he had maintained by his steady deportment,
and keeping up in their minds the impression, that he always had a
large army at command, and was able, and disposed at the first insult,
or breach of the treaty on their part, to bring it upon them to their
utter destruction.
To all their apologies and kind words and excuses, I answered that I
knew them as well as any other man, and that they were not to expect
to atone for a dastardly attempt to take my life, and coming within
a hair's breadth of taking it, by offering me a present, that I
believed that they knew who I was, and only wanted an opportunity, when
they could steal upon me unarmed, and kill me, as they had probably
committed many other similar murders; that they were ready enough to
cry pardon, as soon as they saw me handling my rifle, hoping to catch
me asleep again, but that they would henceforward be sure to find me on
my guard.
At this the Indian who had darted the spear at me, exclaimed that he
loved me as a brother, and would at any occasion risk his life in my
defence. I then distinctly recollected him, and that I had been two
months with the band, to which he belonged, roving in the woods about
the mines. Targuarcha had shown a singular kind of attachment to me,
waiting upon me as if I had been his master. I was perfectly convinced
that he had thrust his spear at me in absolute ignorance, that it was
me. Still I thought it necessary to instil a lesson of caution into
them, not to kill any one for an imagined enemy, until they were sure
that he was guilty of the supposed wrong. Consequently I dissembled
distrust, and told him, that it looked very little like friendship, to
dart a spear at the neck of a sleeping man, and that to tell the plain
truth, I had as little confidence in him, as a white bear. At this
charge of treachery, he came close to me, and looking affectionately in
my face, exclaimed in Spanish, 'if you think me such a traitor, kill
me. Here is my breast. Shoot.' At the same time he bared his breast
with his hand, with such a {128} profound expression of sorrow in his
countenance, as no one was ever yet able to dissemble. I was softened
to pity, and told him that I sincerely forgave him, and that I would
henceforward consider him my friend, and not inform my father what he
had done. They all promised that they would never attempt to kill any
one again, until they knew who it was, and were certain that he was
guilty of the crime charged upon him. Here we all shook hands, and
perfect confidence was restored.
I now called again for my servant, and after calling till I was hoarse,
he at length crawled from behind the bushes, like a frightened turkey
or deer, and looking wild with terror. He had the satisfaction of being
heartily laughed at, as a person who had deserted his master in the
moment of peril. They are not a people to spare the feelings of any one
who proves himself a coward by deserting his place. They bestowed that
term upon him without mercy. All his reply was, sullenly to set himself
to packing his mules.
Now arose a friendly controversy about the horse, they insisting that
I should take it, as the price of our renewed friendship, and I, that
I would not take it, except on hire or purchase. They were obstinate
in persisting that I should take the horse along with me, and finally
promised if I would consent, that they would return to camp and bring
their families, and escort me to the mines. To this I consented, though
I had first taken the precaution to procure some rifle balls of them.
We then resumed our journey, and travelled on without incident till the
5th, when they overtook us, and we travelled on very amicably together,
until we reached the Membry, which runs a south course, and is lost
in a wide arid plain, after winding its way through prodigious high,
craggy mountains. It affords neither fish nor beavers, but has wide and
rich bottoms, of which as I have mentioned, they gave my father as much
as he chose to cultivate.
From the point where the road crosses this river to the mines, is
reckoned 15 miles. Here we met the chief of this band of the Appaches,
with a great number of his people. They were {129} all delighted
to see us, and not the less so, when they discovered that we had
spirituous liquors, of which they are fond to distraction. There was
no evading the importunities of the chief to stay all night with him,
he promising, if I would that he would go in next day with me to my
father. I had scarcely arrived an hour, when I saw the Indian, that
had darted his spear at me, come to the chief with shirt laid aside,
and his back bare. He handed the chief a stout switch, asking him to
whip him. The chief immediately flayed away about 50 lashes, the blood
showing at every stroke. He then asked me, if the thing had been done
to my satisfaction? I told him that I had no satisfaction to demand.
The chief who had whipped him, was positively ignorant of the crime,
for which he had suffered this infliction. But he said, when one of his
men begged a flogging, he took it for granted, that it was not for the
good deeds of the sufferer, and that he deserved it. When I learned
that it was a voluntary penance for his offence to me on the road, I
felt really sorry, and made him a present of a quart of whiskey, as
an internal unction for the smart of his stripes, a medicine in high
esteem among the Indians in such cases.